Colle di Val d'Elsa

Thanks to my early dinner last night and the absence of wi-fi or phone signal in my room I had the lights out my 9pm. Accordingly I was wide awake by 6.30am, well at least my eyes were sort of open. Usual breakfast and on the road by 7.15am. Lovely morning but the locals were treating it like winter. Well wrapped up and moaning. I was in the same skimpy shorts and t-shirt that I have worn every day for the last 75 days, rain or shine. It felt a little chilly to begin with but it soon heated up when the sun came up.

Much amused to note later a similarity between here and home. On some of the busier roads the local council had decided to protect wayward pilgrims by erecting wooden barriers at the side of the road and make a rudimentary path behind the barrier. But as soon as the road got a bit narrower so that it was more difficult to fit the barriers they just didn’t bother. Not unlike the provision of cycle lanes at home. Put in when there is no need but not when there is a need.

Mid-morning I came to a place called San Gimignano that I remembered from last time. It was much the same but not quite so traumatic because I knew what to expect. I think the local tourist board have decided that it is better to concentrate tourists in certain key places so that it is easier to target them with expensive restaurants and shops. And keeps them from wandering about the countryside getting in the way of the locals. This was one of those places. They came by bike (mostly e-bikes, travelling in convoys), by car and by coach. Big packs of them led by an enthusiastic leader with some sort of flag. There was a pile of towers, built years ago but as far as I could tell folk were just interested in the restaurants and shops although they also took photos of everything including themselves. Chaos. Couldn’t wait to make my way through the throng and get back to peaceful isolation. But it would have been foolish not to take advantage of a cafe and toilet in passing.

Within a mile of the teeming masses I was alone again. Indeed I don’t think I saw anyone after that for well over an hour.

My ploy to avoid other walkers by starting stupidly early worked reasonably well. I refuse to call them pilgrims just because they happen to be walking some of a pilgrim route. I only saw 2 others. Both single guys, about half my age, and judging by their kit I suspect they aren’t walking that far. I have got quite smug and superior when checking out the gear used by others, especially their choice of footwear. One of the guys was wearing sandals. Wouldn’t be my first choice.

Can’t start very early tomorrow as breakfast is included but not available until 7.30am. I’m too mean to not bother with it and leave earlier and hope to find a bar on the way out of town.

Got a little excited tonight when I discovered that a pizzeria just round the corner from the hotel was rated as one of the top pizzerias in Italy, had great reviews and was open already. Headed there straight away only to find it was shut and didn’t look like it was going to open any time soon. Had to hang about waiting for somewhere else to open. Had fusilli with ragu. Incredibly filling. Don’t understand how anyone can manage a second course after having that as a first course. Almost couldn’t manage the half bar of Ritter Sport Fondente chocolate that was in my room. But coped just.Read more