First night in GallipoliJuly 21, 2020 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
Lovely seafood, city lights and drinks🍷❣
Lovely seafood, city lights and drinks🍷❣
After we visited playa Prosciutto on Monday, we spent the day at the Suina beach which means female pig🤷♀️😄 maybe because we love Italian prosciutto 😏
Durch einen zu hohen Schwell/Wellengang konnten wir nicht in Otronto festmachen, was ein Chaos am Morgen. Hafen Information und Tagesprogramm mussten fix neu geschrieben werden, dann hieß es wir Tendern, Hafeninfo gedruckt gerade dann kam die Info, wir liegen doch an der Pier😳
Naja, nach dem Chaos am Morgen war der Tag dafür umso schöner😍Read more
Early bus with me and the brightly clothed African and Pakistani beach sellers who loaded their sheets full of handbags and beach towels into the luggage.
Walked the Lungomare for gorgeous swim, then back down and on to the island. The old town was the same as the others in recent days but the town beach stunned me. Turquoise water, still as a mill pond
Trattoria Scoglio delle Sirene zuppe de cozze with complimentary hot chilli oil
Funny their menu called lobster the cicada of the seaRead more
The other day I posted a couple of photos of what appeared to be a nun that was seemingly hung by the neck and put on public display. Well, it seems the worst is yet to come for this poor creature: she will be lit on fire at noon on Easter Sunday!
As it turns out, even though we are in the deep south, there are no lynchings going on here.
The old woman is known as La Caremma, which translates to English as Lent. She is created to look like a witch, and she represents all that is evil. She is hung out on the first day of Lent and an orange, with seven capon feathers stuck into it, is placed below her feet. One feather is removed on each of the following Sundays leading up to Easter when, at noon, she is lit on fire or blown to pieces with fireworks to complete her exorcism and purification.
The most devout Catholics here will continue the purification at home by opening their doors and saying, "Essi tristu e fanne trasire Cristu" (Out with evil, in with Christ). And then they all sit down to Easter dinner and the end of their forty day fast.
La Caremma also represents the symbol of waiting. For weeks she hangs from the gallows in the crossroads of the streets for all to see, but above all to despise her because she is so ugly and horrible.
Her black dress makes her even more disturbing, especially to children, in whom she inspires terror and fear. Easter Sunday is anticipated as the day of liberation, the day when the old witch will no longer be visible and can no longer cause harm (if only in the imagination) to anyone.Read more
Our primary reason for our one day stay in Brindisi was to pickup a rental car at the airport there. Strangely, although Lecce is a much bigger city, there are no car rental agencies there, so we had no choice but to detour north before heading to our next stop, Gallipoli.
After we checked into our Brindisi hotel, I put my hand in my jacket pocket and realized I had not handed in the keys at our Lecce hotel. fortunately, Lecce was on our way to Gallipoli, so we called the hotel and told them we'd stop in on our way through and return the keys. D'oh!
Being used to travel in Canada, I sometimes forget that not every map is on the same scale as the ones back home. Looking at the map of Puglia, I figured we were in for a good two to three-hour ride to Gallipoli. Much to my surprise and joy, the entire ride from Brindisi to Gallipoli, including our stop in Lecce, took only an hour and a half.
We booked an Airbnb apartment right on the coast, a fifteen-minute walk to the old town, for four nights. Once we got inside, looked the place over and saw the location, we immediately booked two additional nights. Our host had left us a huge plate of fresh fruit on the kitchen table and, just off the kitchen is a very large deck that looks out onto the water and the old town in the distance.
Once we unpacked our bags and ate a few pieces of fruit we walked the fifteen minutes into the old town and did some exploring. The city is charming, ancient and quite beautiful. Its location is central enough for us to make various day trips to further our exploration of the Puglia region.
The only odd, and somewhat unnerving, thing we saw in the city were two effigies, seemingly of nuns, hanging above the street. I'm going to have to do some research to see what that's all about.
Hopefully the townsfolk will be a little more tolerant of a big bald Canadian.Read more
Today we continued our exploration of Puglia by jumping into La Grande Orange, our rental car, and driving around the bottom of the Italian boot heel, from Gallipoli to Otranto. We had hoped to make the journey by following the coast all the way, however between roadwork and missed turns, we didn't always mange to stay in sight of water. Nonetheless, the ride was unbelievably scenic and inspired more than a few oohs and aaahs to escape our mouths. Unfortunately, the roads are often so twisty and narrow, it was far too dangerous to stop and take souvenir photos.
The Western side of the heel is coast to the Ionian sea and runs from fairly flat, sandy beaches near Gallipoli to rocky rolling hills as one travels further south.
This road trip saw us visit two extremes of Italy: the southernmost point and the easternmost point.
Our first stop was just to the west of the city of Santa Maria de Leuca on a little spit of land where the Ionian Sea meets the Adriatic. This point is as far south as one can travel in Italy. I felt a need to go there as I had already been to the southernmost point in the USA, Key West, Florida, and the kid in me had to have the experience on a second continent. However, unlike the US where the landmark is teeming with tourist trap shops selling everything imaginable with "Mile 0" printed on it, we were hard pressed in Italy to be certain we were in the right spot. We had to look at Google Maps on our phone to ensure we were indeed there, and sure enough, the little blue dot confirmed our position.
From our vantage point we could look over at Leuca and see an ancient flight of stairs climbing from the lower part of the city to the upper. Brenda immediately decided she wanted to conquer them. As we explored the city, we real realized the stairs were inaccessible from where we were and, although I offered to drive to the foot of the staircase, Brenda decided to forego the challenge.
Traveling in Italy at this time of year is both rewarding and disappointing. Rewarding because there are no throngs of tourists all vying for a glimpse of the same landmark and disappointing, particularly in the smaller cities, because virtually nothing is open. And so, after wandering around for a while, we decided to head off northward to our next stop.
Sometimes the navigation system in La Grande Orange is a little slow on the uptake and, as luck would have it, she lagged just as we came to a fork in the road leaving Leuca. Brenda suggested we take the right fork and we suddenly found ourselves in front of a large church overlooking the city at the top of Brenda's coveted staircase.
The church, which, in contrast to so many of the places of worship here, was so simply decorated I assumed it must have been built recently whereas Brenda was certain it was very old. Everything being relative, I guess we were both right, it was erected in the 1700's on the site of a former Roman temple.
After seeing the church and admiring the windswept trees in the piazza, Brenda was compelled to tackle the stairs. I, on the other hand, had no such desire and found myself waiting at the top of the monument with another tourist who was in the same predicament as I. His wife panted her way up to meet him about five minutes later and they went on their way while I waited for Brenda to complete her ascension of the 284 steps.
Interestingly, between the twin staircases there is a monumental man-made waterfall, built to signal the completion of the Puglia aqueduct. To showcase the grand project, Mussolini ordered the construction of a suitably showy finale: the mouth of the aqueduct is built into a bridge at the top of the promontory and a waterway of rocks falls away below, flanked on either side by 284 steps. The cascade is still opened a few times a year, but, sadly, not on the day of our visit.
Tomorrow I'll write about our northbound travels.Read more
There was no real reason for us to choose this place but it was on our way and looked like it had some decent sites to stay.
Amelia was overjoyed when she saw the size of the park, which is now her default question when we arrive at a new site “has it got a park?” We check out pitches and for some odd reason they have wires strung all over the place above the pitches, for no real reason but to stop really tall Mohos in maybe. Someone who had clearly been before helped us in by holding up the wire with a well-worn broom made for the job.
Once settled (right opposite the park), a few goes on the park and a very slow dinner (trying to cook way too much on the lowest ampage ever...more salads we decide!), we head to the beach. No sand here, but a wooden veranda sitting over the shore line, so Nic takes the children and climbs over and look for crabs in the rock pools.
The swimming pool is solar heated and still a bit chilly, Coen isn’t keen even with their wetsuits on but Amelia enjoys bouncing off and sliding down the half balloon inflatables in the pool and has the ginormous pool totally to herself - joy of off season travel!!
Next day we get a shuttle into the old town to have a look around. We get our first italian coffee and pastries and wander through the tiny streets with old buildings. Very similar to some of the old towns in Croatia, with many little churches cropping up right in the middle of the narrow streets as we also go in a little nativity museum which feels weird at this time of year!
We make it back to the campsite on the shuttle after a few wrong turns on the southern heat and we head up the coast and stop at some lovely sandy coves where lakes have been formed by land cutting off the water, which is interesting. There a lot of kite surfers out in the perfect cove lagoons, with perfect conditions....Nic reminisces about the last kite surfing session he had and wishes there had been space for his kit. We enjoy watching for a while and then decide to head on to Alberobello - a bit of a detour and we are zig zagging back on ourselves but had not planned this bit very well. This place was on our list but not quite spelt correctly, we check with our friend, Kat back home who has an Italian husband and this place is on her “visit before I die list”. So we better not miss it!
We arrive quite late after a very stressful drive, with hangry children going wild in the back and police moving us on when we stop to look at the map - but amazingly for a world heritage site they have a Moho car park 150 meters from the Trulli...Read more
The trip from Saint Maria up to Gallipoli wasn’t the smoothest, but I was on the helm for 3 hours and that definitely helped. Unfortunately when I took a break on a smoother patch I noticed wet carpet, John!! Bugger another bloody hose had come off the fresh water system and the bilges were again full of water, we had to slow while it was pumped out as John had to keep going below, clearing the bilge pump filters as the oil mats had disintegrated in all the water. We eventually made it to Bleu Salento Marina, it’s a bit flash and I worried about the cost, but there was a bit of a deal so only €42 a night. Once moored up we emptied the bilges again and dried everything off then we checked the forward bilge and it again had some water in it, from the leak we thought was near the keel after the rock encounter, but it wasn’t getting any deeper. Had a day mooching around both the new and old town and decided to ask at the yards here if anyone could lift us so we could check the welds on the keel.
Joy Coralias Cantieri Marine could lift us ‘tomorrow morning at 8:00’ for €700 and they had a welder on site. Back on board we readied the boat, moved the kayaks and the dinghy, checked ropes etc. I also checked the forward bilge, No Water!! Oh well we would get lifted and see what we could see. Well the lift was an experience, first of all we reversed in ready quite narrow and shallow, but then they decided they had to put a small boat in so we had to move out, back in and then debates about how many and where to put the strops, I stay out of the way in the cabin. Next thing I know the boat’s being lifted with me on board, not a good experience the strops squeak and creak as they settle, the boat swings even when hoist is still! But all’s well that ends well the guys got everything settled and off I scuttled. After everyone, and I mean everyone had come and had a look and could find no hull breaches only 1 biggish scrap but it was to the rear and not through we concluded the water was not coming in from outside so after three days of sanding priming priming and antifouling we are back in the water and pondering our next move.
Yesterday between coats of paint we decided to go for a bike ride, well I have worked out that we travelled about 70km in total, we got as far as Porto Cesareo a well sheltered lagoon with harbour that’s in a Marine Reserve we tried to find out how we go about getting an anchoring permit but failed, but well we’ve seen it now anyway. On the way we passed about 7 defensive towers built by for Spaniards, I think they were 16th century. Some had been renovated others were only ruins, the ride was pleasant as the roads weren’t very busy. On the way back we passed some fairly large estates but sadly most of the houses were in disrepair.Read more
You might also know this place by the following names:
Gallipoli, غاليبولي, Галіполі, Галиполи, Gal·lípoli, گالیپولی, Գալիպոլի, ガッリーポリ, Галлиполи, 갈리폴리, Gallipolis, Gallipoli i Italia, Caddhrìpuli, Галліполі, 加里波利