• Jane Walsh
  • Anthony Walsh

Camino

“May our eyes be opened to what is not seen” Leggi altro
  • Sarria (13.1km / 652.3km)

    1 giugno 2023, Spagna ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    It’s funny how the shorter walks can be more mentally challenging! Maybe we’re just not as well prepared as we are for a long day (like tomorrow). The beginning of the walk had steep uphill on muddy and slippery paths, so there was no gentle start and there were so many short up and downs that it was hard to get into a rhythm quickly. The map wasn’t quite right either so we weren’t 100% sure we were on the right track but got there …
    We walked in a group of 6 with a lot of chatting and a couple of stops for coffee which was quite entertaining including a Dutch lady with a lovely sense of humour and a young German girl.
    The environment was peaceful along the river with the sounds of birds all day, and through farming “hamlets”. Couldn’t quite call them villages! We eventually arrived in Sarria, our stop for the night at Albergue Pedra, run by a very friendly host. Sarria is the official start of the Camino for those who want to do the least distance and still receive a Compestella certificate of completion at the end. From Sarria we need to receive two stamps per day if we want to receive our Compestella. So Sarria is packed with many new pilgrims, easily spotted by their clean shoes and tidy clothes.
    We had a nap for the first time before heading into the city for our main meal, a walk around the city, mass (with many new pilgrim faces), a late desert and then back home.
    The food is getting seriously good, especially the seafood and veggies! They say a picture is worth a thousand words so see below!
    We’re still grateful for Jane’s feet! All good!
    And I heard yesterday that my cousin Barbara and her husband Steve will be starting in Sarria on Monday and arriving in Santiago on Friday - the same day as us. Buen Camino and see you Friday!
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  • Portomarin (23km / 675.3km)

    2 giugno 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    What a difference a day makes! We’ve been used to small groups and mostly walking alone unless you pass or are passed. Today there are pilgrims everywhere, many excited because it was their first day from Sarria.
    We walked with Louise, the Dutch lady we met a couple of days ago and she loves her coffee and a smoke. If she had her way she would stop at every place but we had a long day ahead. We had a half breakfast before leaving early at 7 and stopped for first breakfast 4.5km down the road. The queues really tested our patience. The food was good but we stayed much longer than we wanted to and the coffee wasn’t worth having so we stopped again 5km later. The crowd had died down a bit.
    At the 100km to go mark local had a stamp to commemorate the event and he helped by telling us with all the pilgrims on the road now this stage was the “Camino of Tolerance”.
    We walked longer than normal for lunch because of a highly recommended place called Mercadoiro and were not disappointed! Beautifully fresh salad, tender pulpa and a Sangria before our 5km walk to Portomarin. It was a long day from 7:15 to 3:45 and we were hot and tired at the end but in good shape physically and feet all good too!
    All these events distracted from some lovely scenery and villages.
    We walked around the town, found a beer and then went to an Italian place for dinner with Louise. Yummy pizza and lasagna with sangria. Tomorrow morning we will spend time in Portomarin before our short walk.
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  • Castromayor (9.1km / 684.1km)

    3 giugno 2023, Spagna ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    We had a short walk today so did a little time in Portomarin which has the most interesting story - something I’ve never seen before. The town, alongside a river was subject to severe flooding so they made the decision to move the town up the hill and build a dam! They moved the church and council offices stone by stone. On the church you can see the stone numbers to make sure they put each stone back in the same place. So the town has a real new and old feel to it and beautiful river banks and views.
    We waited with Louise for James and Tammy who stopped at an earlier village yesterday and then all walked together. The road was much quieter because of our later leaving time. Lots of chatting and chirping mostly because there were no coffee stops for 8km of mostly uphill walking. We stopped for a picnic snack half way up the hill which was nice. and when we eventually got to the lunch spot it was closed!
    They told us of another just 500m further where we had a lovely lunch and then walked 1km further to our Albergue for the night. Our Albergue is in the middle of nowhere with about 15 beds so it doesn’t attract the crowds and was very quiet. There was a big storm at about 4pm - I hope no one was still walking up the hill as streams of water were created.
    We enjoyed playing cards and a lovely meal with 2 younger pilgrims Cal and Kira another man staying up the hill (Manuel).
    We drank their “home-made” wine which was pretty good - hoping it won’t bite back tomorrow.
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  • Palas de Rei (15.5km / 699.6km)

    4 giugno 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    We’re well into the home stretch now with nice short days. We left this morning in the mist but it was quite warm. A nice walk up to the top of the hill while we talked to Theresa, Robbie and Gilbert on the phone and to mom (May) on her birthday. Happy Birthday Mom! Then a walk through forests most of the way.
    At second breakfast, Louise finally got us all to agree to a Cafe Carajillo - an espresso with a small shot of brandy! It’s quite a common thing for the locals and goes well with Tortilla.
    We were walking with Tammy, James and Louise and suddenly there was much excitement when Tammy found out that a YouTuber she and James were following was close behind us! When she saw him coming up the hill she rushed towards him and he was so kind. They walked together with him for about half an hour which made her day. His name is Efren Gonzalez and he has walked many Caminos.
    I (Ant) walked with an Englishman for a while and had to wait for the group to catch up. He was such an interesting man whose job was making and fixing stained glass windows - another first for me!
    In Palas de Rei we went to an Italian place run by an English and Irish couple just for a change and enjoyed the meal before all heading off to mass. It was a most welcoming mass with the priest making such an effort, words on a screen for pilgrims to follow and then an informal “where are you from?” session. The church was packed which was great to see. We ended with a dessert and Spanish Brandy!
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  • Melide (14.7km / 714.3km)

    5 giugno 2023, Spagna ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Today we had a 3rd breakfast!! Walking in a group can test you! I (Ant) think I’m being tested to see how many stops would break me! I mean really!! First breakfast at our hotel was enough except we didn’t have coffee. So second breakfast for some coffee is reasonable. But, they didn’t have good coffee so we had to stop again for proper coffee. I also fear this is not the end of the brandy shot either as one in our party is very keen!

    It was all good fun though and we only had a short day so it was fine although it did mean walking in the hot sun at the end!

    The walk was mostly through tree lined paths and lovely little villages, busy at times but not too bad. More of the churches are open now because people need stamps to prove they walked and a little donation helps the church.

    Melide is quite big and is active with lots of cars and trucks but also has a quiet old city which is very pleasant. We went to see the old church and then had a couple of drinks waiting for dinner to commence at 8pm. We had a lovely selection of tapas- one of the benefits of eating as a group.

    It feels weird that we only have a few days to go.
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  • Ribadiso da Baixo (11.1km / 725.4km)

    6 giugno 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We had a sleep in today, only waking at 7:20, a breakfast in the old town in Melide and then went to mass at 9:30am in the Chapel of San Antonio which was full of locals and quite vibrant.
    We walked with Louise who also had a late start only starting at 10am. Again most of the walk was shaded thankfully as it was hot. We walked through eucalyptus plantations which was just like walking at home. We managed just 2 stops today, one at a local roadside fruit stall and the other for a cold drink. We’re under 50km to go! There was still plenty of banter!
    We are staying in a small town that appears to exist for pilgrims. There are a few Albergues, no shop and only 1 large restaurant. The food was good but the service suffered from a lack of competition and at times was quite rude.
    There is a river at the bottom of our village where we were able to soak our feet in cold water, sooooo good.
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  • Salceda (14km / 739.4km)

    7 giugno 2023, Spagna ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    Our first rainy day where we got to use all our rain gear which performed excellently. Good shopping Jane! Ironically we left early today to miss the heat. We started in the drizzle and walked up the hill for first breakfast, not wanting to give the rude bar owner any more of our patronage!
    The light rain continued most the day and then we got caught in a proper shower for 20 minutes. This made a mess of the muddy road but was actually quite enjoyable as a change.
    After the shower we stopped for a longer than usual lunch - a burger which went down well before continuing onto our lovely accommodation for the night.
    We are seeing less and less people we know as we get to the end which shows how much faster others are going. A lady passed us this morning who started on 10 May so she will do it in 30 days. 30 to 35 days seems quite common but they are exhausted at the end of the day and almost all carrying injuries. They are focusing on the physical aspect. There are a lot doing it in around 40 to 45 days and then people like us in 50! (We feel very Blessed to have the time).
    We had a very nice dinner at our Albergue - another Pilgrim menu of the day. We sat at a table with the 5 of us and then we invited an older American to join us too. We have bumped into him a few times. His wife died last year. He says he is happy to do anything on his own but he really doesn’t like eating on his own. He was so thankful for our invitation that he paid for dinner for everyone. I told him to invite himself to any pilgrim table - he would always be welcome, he said he knows. We are expecting another rainy day tomorrow for our last full day walk before arriving in Santiago on Friday.
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  • Vilamaior (18.6km / 758km)

    8 giugno 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    We were prepared for rain but it was a sunny morning for our last longish day of walking. Tomorrow is more about the finish than the walk.
    We continued through forests, mostly in the shade but there was one last long hill to climb to remind us we were not done yet. In places there were pools of water and very muddy tracks after several days of afternoon and night storms.
    We walk around the airport and watched a plane coming into land just above us before enjoying our last lunch! Hard to believe …
    It really isn’t anywhere near as crowded walking as we thought it might be. We have been avoiding the popular stage start / end points which has helped. We have heard that there are more than a thousand pilgrims arriving every day into Santiago and then hang around for a few days. We are looking forward to catching up with a few of them.
    We are however noticing a significant jump in the prices of everything as we near the end. Lunches or light meals that were costing 6 or 7 euro are now over 10 and we used to be able to get a piece of cake for 1 or 2 euro and that can now be over 4! A good way to cut down in the eating when the walking is done.
    The 5 of us have been walking together now for a week which has been nice and very different to walking independently and we shared our last dinner on the walk in our Albergue, Casa de Amancio that was awesome! We shared some scallops to start and ended with the most delicious desserts and a herbal liqueur. Louise was kind enough to pay for us all.
    Off to bed now and ready for the last 9km tomorrow.
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  • Santiago de Compostella (9km / 767km)

    9 giugno 2023, Spagna ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    Our final departure was in the rain just to remind us that we are not in control. We left before breakfast and walked for about an hour before a nice warm coffee and pastry.
    We were timing our walk to arrive at about 10:15 so had time for a final stop for some Churros and chocolate dip and some mint tee for a change!
    The final few km were a bit of a buzz with anticipation, knowledge that our bodies would actually make it and the sense of achievement. We got our first glimpse of the cathedral from the top of (the very last) hill behind a few trees and our pace picked up. There was a final shower too as we approached the city.
    Over to Jane to describe the entrance …

    As we approached the old town and more and more pilgrims were joining us, the excitement was palpable. We could hear the band pipes and we were through the Porto do Camino, winding gently through the stone paved lanes. Our group of 5 arrived together and we had planned a shot of local herbal liquor, which we had and made our way to plaza de Obradoira where the Cathedral majestically stands - there were shreaks, tears, popping champagne, prayers being offered, hugs, pilgrims meeting each other from days gone by. We had the obligatory photos and then it was time to make it to the Pilgrim Mass. We knew we had to be there more than an hour early to get a seat. Plenty of time for some final reflection and prayers. By midday the Cathedral was packed with many standing. The Mass was beautiful, accompanied by wonderful organ and singing. I felt pretty emotional throughout, filled with gratitude. And then to top it off we were Blessed with the Botafumeiro censer in action, which does not happen at every Mass. After Mass we visited the crypt of St James beneath the main Altar and here we offer our gratitude for the intercession of St. James, along the Way. We headed to the pilgrim office to collect our Compostela, a very slick process and then found a spot for lunch. While we were sitting there we saw Anthony’s cousin literally walk right past, completing their Camino.
    We had dinner with the 5 of us and Manuel and the 3 Aussie from a few weeks back who also started the same day as us, Karen, Steve and Gai who arrived a week ago and were back in town after their trip. Steve actually caught a bus back early to be here when we arrived at 10:20 which was very good if him and great to be greater by someone we knew.
    Well that was a big day …. We will have more tomorrow from Santiago …
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  • Camino reflections

    10 giugno 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Thanks for your messages, support and care following us on our Camino.
    We will send a Post on our few days in Santiago in a few days time and then again after Finisterre (at the end of the world) where some people end their Camino. We will be hiring E-bikes and cycling there and in the local area for the next week (Fistere and Muxia)
    In the next week or so we will be reflecting on the various aspects of the Camino. If you have any questions please send them and we will try include them in our reflections or answer personally. It can be about anything. Some of the topics that keep coming up are:
    Why people do the Camino?
    What is an average distance to walk in a day
    Most common life lessons
    Camino costs and choices
    Spirituality/ religion perspectives
    Without looking at a photo, What colour was Jane’s backpack 😀
    … your questions please

    You can comment in Penguin or send a private message.
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  • Santiago de Compostela rest day #1

    10 giugno 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We had a restless night with people coming and going during the night - late in from partying and early out to catch their flights home. Many months ago we had decided to treat ourselves to a night at the Parador (the old pilgrim hospital now converted to a 5 star hotel right on the Plaza del Obradoiro, next to the Cathedral.), so we dropped our bags here before our roof top tour of the Cathedral. We were in our group of 7 plus some randoms. Unfortunately the tour was only in Spanish, but luckily the views and incredible aspects of the Cathedral were worth it. It was Tammy’s birthday today so we had a special coffee and cake to celebrate, before we headed to our next tour. This time of the Portico of Glory (this was an English audio tour). The "Door of Glory" is the triple portal at the main entrance to the Cathedral through which pilgrims traditionally arrived. It was sculpted in the 12th century by Master Mateo. It is considered to be the finest beauty of the Cathedral and it would be easy to spend ages gazing and studying its beauty. The Portico is at the entrance to the Cathedral but has a barrier between it and the main body of the church. The 12pm pilgrim Mass was just ending while we were there. We could not believe our luck when we once again saw the Botafumeiro censer in action. The barriers were opened so we could watch - what a Blessing. We then met up with Anthony’s cousin, Barbara and Steve for a Tapas lunch, to catch up on life in Joburg and their Camino - it was a great catch up. We then checked into our fancy hotel and chilled for a few hours before meeting our friends for a drink and further celebrations for Tammy over a special dinner at the Parador - plenty of laughter, wine and reflection of our time spent together. After dinner we popped out onto the Plaza to appreciate the night lighting of the Cathedral. There were some local guitarists and singers all having a jolly time with all the locals joining in the singing - a lot of fun and a lovely way to end the day.Leggi altro

  • Santiago de Compostela rest day #2

    11 giugno 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    We woke up late, well rested and made our way down to breakfast to join our friends, and what a breakfast it was - plenty of choice and eat as much as you like and we certainly did it justice. A sad farewell to our friends we had spent so much time with and shared wonderful moments. We packed up our belongings and sorted out what we wanted to take on the next part of our trip - a week on bicycles. We had collected the bags we had sent to Santiago from the beginning of our trip - it certainly is easier with less stuff. The Camino has certainly been a reminder of what is necessary when travelling (and so much easier to handle too). We checked into our new accommodation - very central and the perfect location. We received a message from Tammy to say there had been drama with their car hire so they were coming back to join us, so it wasn’t goodbye after all. We spent some time browsing the many shops and enjoying the narrow cobbled lane ways. We had Pizza for lunch which made a nice change, and then had the obligatory siesta. We had decided to celebrate Corpus Christi at the Pilgrim Mass at the Cathedral so we got there over an hour early to get a seat. I was able to spend some time in front of the Blessed Sacrament with mostly locals in one of the many side chapels. The Mass was beautiful. There was a full choir accompanied by the organ. The acoustics are incredible. The Archbishop was the presider. Once the Mass was over, the solemn Eucharistic procession began with the Blessed Sacrament placed in the monumental custody, carried in a decorated cart. The procession ran through the many old lanes and streets of the historical centre, accompanied by flag bearers, band and many many people. The reverence and holiness of the occasion was a blessing to witness. We returned to the outside of the Cathedral where the blessing was imparted with the Blessed Sacrament. It was after 10pm by now so we managed a quick tapas meal and a drink with Tammy and James before turning in for the night.
    On an aside note. I keep forgetting to mention the many and often ringing of the church bells. In bigger towns and cities, there are many and they can be heard ringing from everywhere. Often they toll every 15 minutes and throughout the night. On occasion when a church has been right across the road from us, it can be a rather restless night. However the beauty and significance of each bell toll is such a welcome sound that even that is a blessing. I will really miss all the bell ringing when we leave here
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  • Santa Marina (bike day 1 / 45km)

    12 giugno 2023, Spagna ⋅ 🌧 22 °C

    We switched from the feet to the e-bikes and thought we’d have a few easy going days. Well!! Let’s just say our batteries were very low when we ended and we were reintroduced to some muscles that had not been used for a long time. Definitely going to be stiff tomorrow. There is absolutely no way we could have done that without e-bikes. Some long and steep hills. So a good day of cycling and as always, with the hills we get great views.
    There was rain about so we hid under a bridge and ate our picnic lunch during a heavy shower. This made some of the paths a bit muddy. We were mostly on roads / paved surfaces and firm gravel but sometimes on stony paths up or down the hills. We could have stuck to the road but tried to follow the official bicycle Camino path.
    Our Albergue is set in a lovely country village with bordering farmlands and hills in the distance. The dark clouds added to the effect. We had a late start out of Santiago as we had to go and fetch our bikes, learn how pack them and then get to the start - the cathedral. Nothing happens early in Spain! As a result we got in quite late at 5pm but were happy we negotiated the bikes with no real issues. We ended with a nice home cooked meal and met a few lovely people, a Swedish lady who has walked so many Caminos now walking with her grandson, a very friendly german couple and a Portuguese group who were happy to chat and then went off to bed, but …
    The room was a mess and we didn’t know where anything was. Our walking backpack routine was so slick but now we have bicycle bags. Everything is in a new place I don’t know when we will get to bed!
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  • Finisterre (bike day 2, 48km)

    13 giugno 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Today was longer but less hilly and most of the day was so good with quite a few long downhill sections going back to sea level but some of the hills were insane. If we lost our momentum on the narrow rocky paths we just couldn’t start again and had to push! We also had a few bike issues. Ant’s bike couldn’t use the last 3 easy gears for a while and Jane’s motor died. Shimano “Error E10” wasn’t a good sign. Fortunately we were near the top and there were not any steep sections to go but still a bit of work to get to the top. Then we went all the way down to the coast to a seaside village called Cee where, after a long lunch, a new bike arrived from our rental company. Such awesome service! AND a full battery! We then went over a hill and back down again to Finisterre. On the way there was a ridiculously steep down hill that we could easily have bypassed on the road and Ant managed a proper “stack” but fortunately was not injured!
    The arrival into Finisterre had a long cobbled pathway which we normally love but seriously, for a bike path! Welcome indeed. Not good for the derrière!
    We arrived in one piece, had a quick shower and cycled to mass as it is St Anthony feast day! Then off to meet a fellow pilgrim for a drink before we ate a delicious seafood dinner of Calamari, langoustine in pastry bags and a huge plate of mussels. We walked to sunset because our butts are a bit tender for cycling!
    Finisterre was know as the “end of the world” for westerners and it is tradition for pilgrims to watch the sun set over the sea after the long walk across the country. We got lucky and had no clouds - the first for many days so we will bore you with our pics!
    A special moment today at second breakfast when we met an 81 year old Belgian lady who walked the Camino Frances in a month! Such a positive lady, just amazing!
    Phew, I feel tired just writing this but it was such a cool day. Beunos Noches 💤
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  • Finisterre rest day

    14 giugno 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    We are back on the bikes tomorrow heading for Muxia. Today was a lovely rest day and the pictures will tell the story …

  • Muxia (Bike day 31km)

    15 giugno 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Another day for the pictures to do most of the talking because I’m running out of adjectives to describe the beauty of what we are seeing.
    We ventured off the Camino track to Muxia because it needed too much concentration on our bikes with narrow and at times rocky paths. The roads were stunning and much more pleasant to cycle. More lovely food, another beautiful sunset …
    We are so blessed!
    Take note of the location of the church right on the rocks - stunning!! It is the church of Our lady of the boat. Tradition says that Mary met St James here and helped and encouraged him in his preaching in Galicia.
    The stones are a monument commemorating the oil spilled from the tanker “Prestige”
    Tomorrow we will tour the Muxia area and relax and reflect
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  • Muxia rest day

    16 giugno 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Another tough day in the most beautiful, peaceful place. We woke late, had brekkie in our patio, cycled to remote beaches where we were the only people, had a picnic lunch and cycled home to catch up on ADMIN and washing! Then out for a lovely seafood dinner from a fishing village! The fish was so fresh and they have a local speciality - barnicles (Percebes) which we had to try. A bit difficult to get them so watch the video.
    Tomorrow and Sunday we head back to Santiago and hand back our bikes.
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  • Vilaserio (bike day 4, 53km)

    17 giugno 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    The final leg for us is 2 days from Muxía to Santiago, about 86km so we will end our bike Camiño tomorrow (Sunday). We were not sure that our bikes would still have any battery left to finish with the hills so we stopped and charged our bikes for an hour while we had a coffee. We would definitely not have had enough power so it was just as well as we climbed about 700m. E-bikes are just ‘amazing!

    A large part of the ride was on the same path we took last week to Finisterre but it was wet last week so felt different. We fealty sorry for those going up “that hill” and saw a large group pushing their bikes up like we had to. We were so busy riding we took hardly any photos - sorry!

    We had a quiet afternoon in a one horse town / village after arriving and continued with our admin catch up and preparation for the next leg of our adventure which is shaping up nicely. And Jane says she is going to post about Santiago soon …
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  • Santiago (bike day 5 / 40km)

    18 giugno 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Last day of cycling or walking started with light rain and mist. So beautiful and peaceful. The overnight rain made the paths muddy so we stuck to the roads and sealed paths. The roads were a bit slippery so we were extra careful and we took some photos today. We went off the Camino track to go to the view point which meant a serious climb but we had time and battery so why not?
    It turns out it is a walking track so bike access wasn’t possible AND we went downhill on a muddy rocky track and missed the long downhill on the road 😢

    Google maps then decided to take us the most complicated way to the bike rental shop but in fairness Santiago has one way streets in a spider web pattern and is a bit difficult. At one point I thought I must have selected pavements only?? Anyway we got there in one piece and felt like we had earned our burger!

    Our afternoon job was to sort out what luggage we were taking with us and what to send home. We can’t believe how much we had and we packed lightly we thought! We ended up selecting 18kg of stuff to put in a box - including our backpacks 4 pairs of shoes, sleeping bags and cloths we specifically thought we would need but now we don’t! Camino lesson #1!

    We went to Mass at the cathedral followed by an invitation to join young musicians and a priest for prayers with the Blessed Sacrament. On our way out we heard a choir practicing and it turns out there was a concert at 9:30 (Washington Cathedral Choir) which we stayed for. Their voices were beautiful and the acoustics in the Cathedral are top notch. (Some short videos attached). A lovely way to end.

    Tomorrow we have a few more things to do before heading off on Tuesday for the next part …
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  • Santiago tourist day

    19 giugno 2023, Spagna ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    Today was our final day in Santiago and with it the end of our Camino. But we have discovered that the authentic Camino begins when it is completed. We started our day at the Post Office to mail back a box of the Camino gear we will not need for the rest of our trip as well as the clothes we now realise we will not need. I know I will have been successful if by the time I get home, I have worn everything in my case. We then went to English Mass at the Pilgrim Office. A little chapel that was full with people from US, Australia, Scotland, Philippians. The Priest was from Philippians, but now lives in Santiago. He was wonderfully welcoming. For the prayers of the faithful we were all invited to the altar to light a candle and offer a prayer. We said a prayer for all our family and loved ones. There are many English speaking volunteers - religious and ley. They offer an incredible service of retreats and reflection opportunities over tea. After tea we spent some time watching the new pilgrims arriving at the Plaza - always an emotional experience. We couldn’t believe it when we saw a friend from many days ago - when we attended our retreat at the Benedictine Monastery. We spent some time catching up and then headed to lunch where we had a delicious paella. We had our obligatory siesta and a little later headed off for a walking tour of the old town which was a very relaxed and informative walk. We had a light dinner at a vegan cafe, which was a very nice change. Last little bit of packing and admin before our departure tomorrow and then bed zzzz

    Tomorrow we are heading to Barcelona for 4 days and then on to Italy. We will post our Camino reflections tomorrow and end this Penguin trip!
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  • 5 Symbols from the Camino

    20 giugno 2023, Spagna ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Worthy of reflection🙏🏻

  • Camino Ends … or is it just beginning?

    20 giugno 2023, Spagna ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    We have completed our Camino Pilgrimage and this will be our last post as Pilgrims. We have, however, learned that our real Camino only starts now in real life.
    We will start a new Penguin trip as “Tourists” tomorrow but hopefully will behave more like Pilgrims! So for those who just wanted to follow the Camino I suggest you turn off your notifications or you will get ambushed by our tourist posts. Thank you for following our trip and your support. We loved having you. As you can imagine we have a lot of thoughts after 60 days so some reflections follow but we need more time to fully respond so consider this a summary although caution it is long …

    Pilgrim or Tourist?

    There is an element of pilgrim and tourist in all of us and in each trip. Essentially after a trip, a pilgrim is in some way changed or their behaviour / outlook is changed. A tourist sees and experiences the same things but returns home enriched by the experiences but mostly unchanged.

    On the Camino, whenever anyone showed signs of tourist behaviour we were reminded of the differences by the locals: A tourist travels and visits places with the mindset of having experiences and seeing places that meet their expectations and standards, and responds accordingly when they are met or not met. Perhaps a mindset of entitlement.
    A pilgrim travels and visits places with a mindset of being aware, adapting and obtaining enjoyment from the local expectation and standards. A mindset of a visitor.
    This is usually evident in complaining about something which is considered normal in the place you visit but not where you come from such as waiting more than 2 minutes to be served, not offering a meal to meet our dietary preferences or that a shop is closed when you need it between 2pm and 5pm or …

    Why do people walk the Camino? There are so many reasons but the must common are:
    1. As a spiritual/ religious pilgrimage which is what it originally was.
    2. As a physical challenge or activity - how far can I walk, how fast, how many km or hours per day, etc
    3. As a break from the stress of daily life and a means to focus on self (work, relationships, process a tragic event)
    4. It is just something someone wanted to do - a combination of any of the above or - I saw the movie “The Way”, heard about the Camino from someone else, saw it on You Tube, thought it would be a good social experience, etc

    Our reflections are obviously influenced by our reasons which were primarily (1. Spiritual) and (2. Physical - as in can I actually do it?)

    Jane’s Reflection

    The Camino for me is a lot about the people we meet, both as fellow pilgrims, volunteers and all those you meet along the way, even the local taking their dog for a walk. The sharing we encountered over the many pilgrim meals and the care given by the various hosts. When walking it can be like walking side by side with our guardian angel in a place where happiness, kindness, and thoughtfulness are experienced. The people along the journey are remarkably compassionate towards each other. It's a precious time when God allows us to reflect on our lives, embrace the countless blessings and graces we receive, and fully immerse ourselves in the awe-inspiring beauty of His creation.

    My Mum also played a big part in my pilgrimage. As long as I can remember she had wanted to walk the Camino but never did. Along my way, almost daily, I would see signs of her sharing my journey. Whether it was her name written on a rock, or a poster we passed, a piece of music I knew she loved, a particular flower, or view, church or prayer. I was able to dedicate my Camino to her loving memory and had her name written on my Compostela. She was my first teacher of the faith that is so precious to me and I will be forever grateful.

    What kept coming back to me while walking, were the countless people who have walked the exact path during centuries and centuries past. I would try and imagine their fears and anxieties along the way, the unknown that they faced, their trials and tribulations. Their faith that kept them walking. This helped me so much when I was encountering pain and discomfort with my endless blisters.

    I know my own apprehension before we started and the doubts I faced. What I have learnt and will take home with me is a quote I read:
    “If you could see the journey whole you might never undertake it, might never dare the first step that propels you from the place you have known toward the place you know not”

    Ant’s Reflection

    When I started the Camino my objective was to use the time to work out what I do next following 25 years with my primary objective being raising our family and building my career. I thought the time would allow me to put together a grand life plan. Through the wisdom of all my Camino influencers (see below), I realised that I first needed to empty my current bucket of objectives, “self-focussed /motivated” principles, wish lists and plans. A good example for me was to let go of my need to create a grand plan now with the knowledge I have now.
    Then, with a truly open mind (empty of previous bias and objectives) I was challenged to to look around me, listen, observe and be open to what was being shown to me and then over time my purpose would become clear. The hardest thing was knowing what in the bucket needed emptying but I think it was removing all preconceived ideas and especially differentiating between my self motivated or community motivated principles. The words repeated by the influencers were humility (not being I focussed), waiting patiently (not easy as this doesn’t mean waiting without showing frustration it actually means waiting peacefully…).
    In trying to be a better Christian Fr Mike simplifies it so well by referencing several passages from the scriptures (see references below) where he reminds us that Christ focussed on the sinners, the poor and the sick and we are called to imitate him. We are not expected to achieve the impossible. We start with what is necessary around us and then do what is possible. Impossible outcomes will result from those. We need to make a committed decision “to be there - to show up” for the people and things around us, not just be there but completely be there. To do that, we need to really see what is right next to us (Emmaus). For me that means I don’t need to focus on the long term grand plan to change the world or stick rigidly to a plan but rather have a mindset to look around, observe and serve / respond to what is around me now and that may be different tomorrow. Not very corporate at all!
    So my mindset is different, I feel like I am more aware of my (maybe many moments) of impatience and my need to stick to a plan where the consequence doesn’t matter. My actions may not have changed yet (that is for others to judge) but I am more aware.
    All of this has been a gift of the Camino and my influencers. And especially my main influencer Jane, my walking buddy, my beloved wife and the one who knows me best, She sees and deals with my “lack of humility” moments and shares in the best moments which remind me of the words from the sister in Lourdes “ don’t spend too much time planning where to go but rather who you go with and who you will meet” and a pilgrim blessing quote “It isn’t important where you go but what does matter is who you arrive with”.

    Camino physical influences
    “If you look you will see signs”
    “If you believe, you will see signs everywhere”. The signs we saw that influenced us were:
    The churches
    The crosses
    The devotions / statues to Our Lady
    The statues of so many saints
    The fields of farmland
    The wild flowers
    The mountains
    We could write about each but every day they were all around us and so inspiring.

    Most influential people on our Camino

    For us, this is heavily biased towards people and places with a spiritual objective. They are on the Camino to help our journey and they did their job!
    - the priests, sisters and brothers that went out of their way to make us feel welcome, give us blessings and be there to serve us especially at St Jean, Roncesvalles, Puenta La Reine, Logrono, Santa Domingo de la Calzada, Burgos, Carrion de los Condes, Sahagun, Rabanal del Camino, Finisterre and Santiago.
    - special individual influencers were the sister that performed the washing ceremony at Lourdes and the sister who did the Tour at Lourdes. They provided some hope and challenge.
    Our friends and families back home, knowing we were in their thoughts and prayers and that they were in ours.
    Our Penguin followers - the support and comments motivated daily posts even when we were too tired.
    George Ezra (singer) album “This is George”- the beat of Green Green Grass was used to kick start a good pace to finish the day when we were tired. Such a good walking beat.

    Major on-line influence is Fr Mike Schmitz - Sunday homilies are awesome. (Spotify, Apple or wherever you get your podcasts). Strongly Recommend listening to his homilies from the Sunday after Easter (April 23) to Pentecost. The first homily is the road to Emmaus (Luke 24: 13-35) and the other homilies helped showed how we can follow Christ in our daily lives.
    The other passage which appeared often on the Camino and made it sound simple was also a call to imitate Christ from Matthew 5:16 “ In the same way your light must shine in the sight of men, so that, seeing your good works, they may give the praise to the Father in heaven”

    The hospitaleros ( people who volunteer for pilgrims), the Albergue owners especially at albergue in Lintzoin, Villamayor de Monjardín, Trabadelo, Fonfria

    Pilgrims - we don’t mention names as there were so many. They know who they are but also those we met for maybe an hour that had an influence like the Canadians at Elvis bar, the stain glass maker, the 81 year old, the Frenchman at Carrion, the Dominican medical Gastro specialist

    One Canadian hearing my story suggested a book which helped me - I downloaded the audiobook and listened to it. It described the transition from the first to second part of life. Falling Upward by Richard Rohr. It is written by a Catholic priest but is good reading for anyone looking for the purpose for second part of life. Stage 1 is essential to create a solid platform and then we need to let go some elements to use that platform in stage 2. before you can work out stage 2 you need to know what your purpose has been in stage 1 and what of that still matters.

    Other stuff we were asked was mostly about our luggage
    Our Camino stuff was just about perfect - thanks to Jane’s research. Lightweight clothing that dries quickly and we used everything except thermal underwear thanks to great weather. We probably had too much medicinal supplies not knowing that most towns had a pharmacy or 2 and they were excellent and had some English if not good English. So maybe just needed a few of each. We did take playing cards but ditched them about half way. And we had a spare collapsable water bottle that we didn’t need.
    Apart from new shoes which Jane needed to stop blisters, we purchased nothing on the way which is amazing for us. A few tiny souvenirs.
    Jane pack weighed about 8kg and Ant’s about 10kg plus any food supplies.
    So, Camino packing gets a 9 out of 10.
    The packing for the next part gets about a 5 out of 10 and we sent a lot home - Great to see the big box go and be left with 1 bag each. Cannot say enough about lightweight clothing and not your standard T shirts, underwear, etc.
    Leggi altro

    Fine del viaggio
    20 giugno 2023