Pristina

Pristina, Kosovo

My journey from North Macedonia to Kosovo was on a hot, busy minibus with a group consisting largely of Kosovan workers. I was seated across from two burly construction workers who insisted on striking up a conversation, albeit in German - the only common language we could just about all understand (although my Higher German seemed a long way off!). The main guy was clearly in celebratory mood, and insisted on me joining him in a glass of ‘schnapps’. Me politely declining his offer was pointless, and soon I was joining half the passengers in a generous serving of the powerful rekija (the effects of which from my lunchtime imbibing were only just wearing off!). I thought the two quiet young guys in front were from the USA, but they too were Kosovan, but possessing the usual perfect American accent common in young folk from these parts, brought up with social media. They too joined the party, asking me the familiar questions: ‘Glasgow Rangers or Celtic?‘ My interest in lacrosse seemed to fail to impress them, but they were very helping in providing advice about their small country. ‘But why are you visiting Kosovo?’ they enquired. I wondered that too, as the first image I saw after crossing through Border Control was a car engulfed in fire at the side of the road. On arrival at Pristina Bus Station, my construction friends tried to persuade me to join them for a ‘bier’ but, fearing the worst, I politely declined and headed for my hotel - the 4Llulla in the city centre.

Kosovo only gained its independence in 2008 and, although it has been recognised by many countries, there are still many which don’t, including Serbia. Indeed I was told by several fellow travellers that you would be refused entry to Serbia if you tried to enter from Kosovo, (which they believe is still part of their country), so I am relieved I didn’t do it that way around. I also heard that there had been some recent trouble in Kosovo, but after checking the relevant travel advice, this seems to have been restricted to the north of the country, and the remainder generally was considered safe for travel.

As Europe’s newest capital city, Pristina underwhelms somewhat compared to other cities I have visited on this trip. There are no obvious major attractions, but it was interesting to walk around nonetheless. My small hotel was located next to the main Skanderberg Square. There was some of kind of international folk dancing competition outside the theatre as I arrived, and I thought the beautiful costumes would look great in a Runway pantomime. I had a lovely traditional dinner at the recommended Liburnia restaurant - roasted peppers in a cream sauce, followed by lamb and potatoes cooked the oven - tasty 😋. I topped up my alcohol level with a half litre of the local lager beer.

This morning I did a walk around the city centre. Apart from the main pedestrianised street, it was very busy with traffic, fairly littered, lots of graffiti, grass verges, street furniture and steps poorly maintained, and grey, overcast weather - remind you of anywhere? Although Pristina was interesting to visit, it would not be on the top of my list to return to. They say that if you have limited time in Kosovo then Prizren with its attractive Old Town is the place to go. But I think I’ll have to leave that visit for another tripLæs mere