Camino de Santiago

Home for tonight is this albergue (pilgrim hostel) with a whopping 200+ beds, across three floors, in pods of four. In mine I've got Tigore from England, a 74 year old Swedish guy who was so committed to travelling light (4.5kg*) he refused to bring a sleeping bag and is now cracking it about being cold, and a Spanish speaking man wearing, and I shit you not, high performance suspenders. Everything smells like deep heat.

The accommodation was €14 and when I arrived Ana, my Norwegian friend from breakfast at SJPP, let me know that she had booked dinner for 7pm so when asked at reception if I wanted to, I said yes without knowing what was involved. I was handed a laminated card that said Pilgrim Meal, and an extra €13 was added to my bill.

In the intervening hours I had a thaw out shower, some laundry, a few chats, updated here, and read a bit of the book I grabbed in SJPP. In exploring, I saw sky dispenser has blessed me anew! Peep these vending machines, they count as odd because of the sheer number of them and the slight left-fieldness of their contents which include yogurt and sandwiches that will outlast me on this earth. Praise be to sky dispenser.

At 7 we all excitedly hustled to the restaurant where I was on a big round table with Tigore and my Swedish bunk mate (emerging as a huge character), Ana, a guy from Padua, a couple from Minnesota, and a woman from Chicago.

Over wine, bread, soup, pasta, a choice of chicken or trout, and strawberry yoghurt, we talked about the day**, what had brought us here, and our lives. Particular attention was paid to Lake Superior. I've never had such an enjoyable evening with strangers in my life. It was cliche and perfect.

I'm going to sleep very well now, and hope nobody flushes the toilet that sounds like a jet engine and involves about 50L of water. Tomorrow is 5km shorter, downhill, and not raining. Can't wait.

*I'd like it known that excluding my meds I've got 4.8kg which does include a sleeping bag so pipe down mate.

** Turns out that beech forest/snow slog Ana, Tigore, and I did was the bit the pilgrim office told us not to do due to weather and stick to the road instead. That was a bonding discovery. They also told me they were following my lead for directions from afar half the day, which was bold of them.En savoir plus