Costa Rica & Guatemala 2024

January - February 2024
A 42-day adventure by umm...mad for travel Read more
  • 18footprints
  • 4countries
  • 42days
  • 128photos
  • 4videos
  • 7.3kkilometers
  • 6.8kkilometers
  • Day 22

    align your chakras...om shanti om

    February 7 in Guatemala ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Where am I today? Who am I today? Do I exist? What is my purpose? What and how am I experiencing this strange thing that is my life? Again, style and questions borne out of what I'm currently reading, At The Existentialist Café by Sarah Bakewell, and Americanah by Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie. I reserved both these e-books quite a while ago from the wonderful Toronto Public Library system, and both became available at about the same time so I checked both of them out. They are an interesting contrast, one non-fiction, the other a novel, and seem to play well off of each other.

    Going down the existentialist learning path is fascinating. If I have understood correctly, it has its roots in Phenomenology (Edmund Husserl, Martin Heidegger), the philosophical study of objectivity and reality (more generally) as subjectively lived and experienced. It seeks to investigate the universal features of consciousness while avoiding assumptions about the external world, aiming to describe phenomena as they appear to the subject, and to explore the meaning and significance of the lived experiences. And for existentialisn, I'll cede to wikipedia (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Existentialism), "The labels existentialism and existentialist are often seen as historical conveniences in as much as they were first applied to many philosophers long after they had died. While existentialism is generally considered to have originated with Kierkegaard, the first prominent existentialist philosopher to adopt the term as a self-description was Sartre. Sartre posits the idea that "what all existentialists have in common is the fundamental doctrine that existence precedes essence" Regardless of what it means, from reading At The Existentialist Café, I find myself at the moment, quite aligned with Simone de Bouvoir, specifically her uncertainty and confusion about what it all means, which I can totally relate to. I look forward to reading her writing and Sartre at some point in the future, should I continue to exist, if indeed I even do now.

    It does feel to me that I am currently existing in a place called San Marcos La Laguna, on the shores of Lago Atitlan, Guatemala. It is one of the most hippie-like places I have ever been to, and it definitely has a very unique energy which "healers", yogis, therapists and alternative therapy practitioners and the town also maintains a steady community of nomads and expats. I am always of two minds when I come across these types of places and feel full of contradictions. I like the vibe, to a certain extent, but I also feel some of the people here are so full of shit and so full of themselves. I also feel that there are many lost souls here, searching for the latest thing that might help them find some sort of meaning to their lives. But at the same time, I love that this alternative way of thinking and being exists. I find myself floating somewhere between this "spiritual" world and the more grounded world that I have to live in most of my days. I think I may at heart by an optimistic sceptic, and so, no matter how beautiful and spiritual a message may be, a part of me remains sceptical about the whole thing.

    I have some more to say and pictures to post, about my very special time in Santiago de Atitlan, with Pierre and Simona, two beautiful souls I met while serving a 10-day Vipassana course in France last Septemeber.

    Hasta Pronto!
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  • Day 26

    Good hike, bad hippie

    February 11 in Guatemala ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    I hiked what is called the Lower Mayan Trail yesterday. Not sure where the Upper one is but I thoroughly enjoyed the Lower one. It's a medium difficulty level, peaceful, undisturbed journey through the Guatemalan countryside. Stretching from San Marcos to Santa Cruz La Laguna, the winding footpath traverses local villages such as Tzununá and Jaibalito - where I stopped at the very cheap & tasty restaurant, Posada Jaibalito, aka Hans' place, with great, chilled ambiance - and arid forests whilst delivering some of the best views available from the northern shore of Lake Atitlan.

    After I finish my upteenth coffee in this little hippie town of San Marcos, I will take the boat to San Pedro to reunite with Beth and Rowen. The three days I'll spend there will be my last at Lake Atitlán, and Guatemala, as I fly back to Costa Rica on the 14th.

    Any good spiritual vibrations I may have accumulated here may be cancelled out because today is Super Bowl Sunday and I will be watching! It's bittersweet for NFL fans. So much so that what seems to be Hunter S Thompson's last written words penned 4 days before he shot himself to death on February 20, 2005 at age 67, had the title, “Football Season Is Over.”
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  • Day 26–29

    Adiós Guatemala!

    February 11 in Costa Rica ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    My last days in Guatemala were spent with Beth and Rowen in San Pedro la Laguna, a lovely town on the southwestern shore of Lake Atitlan 1,610 m above sea level, that has managed to keep much of its charm despite the many tourists, travellers and digital nomads who stay here for varying lenghts of time. Apart from the main drag that runs along much of the shoreline with its many hostels, hotels, restaurants, cafes and tour operators, the town provides a solid workout with its delightfully hilly, winding streets and alleyways. And like all towns and villages around lake Atitaln, people get around mostly by foot, motorcycle or tuktuk.

    I was going to hike San Pedro volcano, which, along with the short, sunrise hike to Mayan Face, is the most common activity engaged in by travellers to San Pedro. However, since I was planning to hike a volcano in Costa Rica with Maikel a few days later, I decided instead for a little walk, with Beth and Rowen, to the very cute, neighbouring village of San Juan La Laguna, and then Playa Las Cristalinas where we enjoyed a well deserved beer at Nicks Place Las Cristalinas on the verdant outdoor patio, marvelling at the beautiful plants, flowers and hummingbirds.

    The pics attached to this post are all fom San Pedro. I will post again with San Juan La Laguna, Playa Las Cristalinas, and Nicks Place pics.
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  • Day 32

    Volcán Barva

    February 17 in Costa Rica ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    The trip is almost finished, I'm coming home soon so let's wrap this up. I stayed at Maikel's for a few days after returning to Costa Rica from Guatemala. We had an excellent hike with his friend Mauricio at Volcán Barva in the Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo. The pics say it all.Read more

  • Day 34–40

    Costa Rica, Caribbean coast

    February 19 in Costa Rica ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Mike and I spent 3 days in Puerto Viejo and 3 days in Manzanillo and many points in between. So many beautiful and cool beaches, each with their vibe, run between the 2 towns including the beaches in those towns. Puerto Viejo is by far the liveliest and as far as the most beautiful beach, it's up for grabs but Mike says Uva. Since my bike chain crapped out on me before I could get there, I cannot corroborate that. 😉

    I also visited the Jaguar Rescue Center that, while interesting, strangely had no jaguars. But they do important work with many animals so I forgive them.
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  • Day 42

    Adios Costa Rica!

    February 27 in Dominican Republic ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    I have problems fleshing out in writing my thoughts. No such problem when they're jangling around inside my head, but it's harder bottling that lighting onto something physical.

    I'll give it a go, but forgive me if I bail partway through, mid-thought, tiring of the effort to sound interesting, or even perhaps, if the stars align just right, passable literary.

    I wrote much of this in a Walmart (yes Walmart!), the rest at the airport in Santo Domingo awaiting my connecting flight back to Toronto. Walmart is evil, and the world would be a better place without them. But they exist, and travellers can be useful when you have a lot of time you need to kill without anyone bothering you. Plus, you can get cheap food and drink, sometimes free stuff (coffee in this case), use the bathroom, etc. So...using it for good instead of evil 🙃

    I'm feeling anxious, not sure why, maybe because something big is ending. I usually get this feeling when a big event or experience is coming to an end. I'm ready and happy it's ending, and am very excited to be heading home to Gi, to family, to my Toronto friends, to Toronto, to Canada, to my home routine, to eating well, to eating more variety, to playing music, to meditating, to yoga, to biking, to maybe getting my motorcycle back on the road. But anxious I still am. Maybe it's something inside me that knows instinctively that I've knocked another few weeks off the Big timer, the Main countdown clock, closer to the end, yada, yada, yada. Most likely, I'm just talking out my ass here, and I have no idea. Anyway, it is what it is, and it's just part of me.

    It has been a wonderful ride, the past six weeks travelling in Costa Rica and Guatemala. A few hiccups here and there but mostly fantastic. Barring some sort of catastrophe or disaster, I don't know how anyone can not have a good time while travelling. It's like sex, even when it's not great, it's still sex, and pretty damn enjoyable.

    I will miss the warm air, the zephers, the sounds of the jungle, the beaches, the oceans, friendly locals, happy travellers, jungle hikes, tropical showers, Lake Atitlan boat rides to get from one town to another, finding a good cup of coffee in each new town, practising my Spanish, wandering aimlessly, and much more.

    I will not miss the sound of dogs barking at night, extremely pricey food and drink almost everywhere in Costa Rica, complaining tourists, lack o poutine...

    Thank you to...all the friendly Ticos and Guatemaltecos I met. Mike, Beth, Rowen, the extended time we spent travelling together was really special. Flora, it was too short but we all had such a blast in Dominical. Miakel, Pierre and Simona, you are wonderful, generous hosts and such beautiful souls. Carlos and Rosa, you have a beautiful home in Grecia and I wish you much peace and happiness.

    Pura Vida Mai!

    And as always, Mama I'm Coming Home
    https://youtu.be/K0siYUjV9UM?si=UAKRG1-o2Ym-FmUM

    p.s. I didn't bail!
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