Mexico
Coyoacán Borough

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    • Day 110

      Coyoacan walking tour

      February 19, 2020 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      This morning we took an uber (of course so we could pack and have more sleep lol 😂) to the beautiful Coyoacan neighbourhood, home to the rich and the famous Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera. Apparently alot of famous stars of Mexican TV live in this area, and so makes since why it would cost around 1.5million dollors to buy just a small place here 😳😱 alot of people that live here though have had the houses in the family for generations, so that's how alot of normal people can afford to here too. The area has a very bohemian atmosphere with lots of small coffee, and cake shops with a beautiful town centre with alot of history around. We also took a visit to some of the gardens, which some are unnone to the mexicans visting the neighbourhood, as most tourist stick to the main centre of the town.Read more

    • Day 1–3

      Coyoacan, Mexico City

      January 1 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      So after a long flight and a long day (6 hours longer than normal due to the time zones) we arrived safely in Mexico City. This is a mega city with a population of 22.2 million so we picked the quiet suburb of Coyoacan for our first two days to allow us to settle in.

      This area has a bohemian and hipster vibe with plenty of street entertainers, local food and markets and interesting architecture.

      The area is most famous for being the home of celebrated Mexican artist Frida Kahlo and her husband the muralist Diego Rivera. We visited her childhood home where she stayed much of her short life. Called Casa Azul (blue house) it had lovely grounds and provided rich insight into her challenging life and the art it fuelled.

      We then went to the Leo Trotsky museum, the house where he lived in exile from Stalinist Russia, suffered multiple assassination attempts before he was eventually murdered (with an ice axe).

      We spent the rest of the day exploring the streets, market and did some birding in the local park. Because this is a new country for us most of the birds were brand new. Of the 18 species we identified 16 were life ticks. Highlights were the small Ladder-Backed Woodpecker and the brilliant red Summer Tanager.

      Tomorrow we are heading to Valle de Bravo for a few days (a 3 hour bus ride) to see the Monarch Butterflies.
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    • Day 110

      Coyoacan walking tour pt2

      February 19, 2020 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

      More of coyoacan quiet neighbourhood, before we got to the main square. Unfortunately we had cut the walking tour short, as we had to book out tickets in advance for the Frida Kahlo House, as its a real tourist attraction all the time 😅. But after visiting Frida Kahlo's House we revisited the main square in Coyoacan and had a small but yummy Mexican meal and made our own self guided tour before heading off for our flight to Puerto Escondido (yet another beach town in the south of Mexico😂😂) 3 days in the city and its all too much it would seem! We loved México City, and wished we'd have booked longer, so we can do alot more.... I'm not sure even a week here would be enough to see everything!Read more

    • Day 110

      Frido Khalo musuem & home!

      February 19, 2020 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

      We visited the much famed house of Frida Kahlo in the afternoon, she is such a big figure of influence here in Mexico, know for her amazing paintings, individually in her dress sense, personally and home. She also was a revolutionary woman not scared to explore the new and controversial decisions in her life. Despite her misfortunes in life she was always positive and strong minded throughout (she contracted polio when she was a young child, and this made one of her legs shorter, then while in high school she had a terrible accident involving a train crash where was paralised and bed ridden for 1 year, where she started to paint as a hobby before she could walk again! She later realised in her life because of the accident she could no longer have children and continued to give her pain throughout her whole life) She married the famous painter Diago Rivera who she lived with in the house we visited with its beautiful gardens, colourful and creative interior.Read more

    • Day 172

      Xochimilco & Frida Kahlo

      March 20 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

      Hüt hämer zwei Sache vor. Eimal Xochimilco, det cha mer mit bunte Bötli die schwümmende Gärte bsueche und s zweite ischs Casa Azul, s dihei vo de Frida Kahlo.
      Mir sind also am Morge mit em Uber los für uf Xochimilco und hend em Fahrer gseit, dass mer zum Haupt Embarcadero, e Art Anlegestell fürt Schiff, wend. Es git öpe 4 verschiedeni. Im Internet hämer gläse, dass es Boot für e Rundfahrt rund 600 Pesos chosted, aso rund 30.- Fr.
      Churz bevor mer am Ziel acho sind, isch eine uf em Velo zu eusem Auto cho und het sehr penetrant gmeint, die Anlegestell, wo mir hi wänd, isch gschlosse wegemene Fest. Es gäbi aber e anderi Anlegestell, wo offe segi. Da d Semana Santa, aso d Osterwuche, grad afangt, isch das nöd so verkehrt gsi. De Uberfahrer isch au unsicher gsi wie mir. Er het eus aber versicheret, dass es sicher segi. Mir händ mit ihm abgmacht, mir gönds go aluege und wenns eus komisch vorchunnt, gömer wieder. Det acho hämer d Böötli gse und und get au es paar Mänsche und Lädeli gha.
      Aso simer usgstiege und sind zum Vermieter vo de Böötli. Er het eus 3 verschiedeni Route vorgschlage, wo aber alli über 2500 Pesos, aso ca 120.- kosted hend. Aso fast 3x soviel wies im Internet gheisse get😂🤷‍♀️ Da mir eus vorallem uft Sicherheit vo dem Ort fokussiert händ, hämer nöd tschägget, dass das au eifach en chline Scam chönnt sie, und sie eifach viel meh als üblich chönnted verlange. Da de Uberfahrer scho weg gsi isch, und mer uf kein Fall es Taxi vo de Strass derf ne (sind gfährlich), und mir i dere Gägend, wo mer nöd känned, nöd eifach händ wele umelaufe, hämer versuecht, d Pris abezhandle. Am Schluss hämer 60.- Fr. zahlt, s doppelte wie suscht, aber immerhin d Helfti was sie händ wele. Naja da mir wiedermal i ne Turifalle glofe sind und kei anderi Wahl meh gha gend, isch das den euse Priis halt gsi🤦‍♀️😂😂😂

      D Fahrt mit em Böötli isch aber würkli mega toll gsi. Euse Kapitän het, wie in Venedig, s Böötli mit emene Holzpfahl ageh und so simmer dur die Wasserstrasse gleited. Euse Kapitän isch en junge Mexikaner gsi. Uf sim Platz hämer es Ritschratsch entdeckt und bim gnauere hiluege au Gras und er het rächt glasigi Auge gha😅 wo mer uf em Hauptkanal acho sind, hets zwei Böötli mit Mexikanerinne vo Oaxaca gha, wo fliessig zu luter musig tanzend, gsunge und Mezcal gschöttled hend (es isch 10i am Morge gsi). Vo Boot zu Boot händs eus au Schöttli gschänkt, wo mir gern gno händ. Nach enere witere Rundi simer au in Trinklune gsi und händ e Michelada teilt, Bier mit Limettesaft und Tabasco. Es isch richtig luschtig gsi und mir händ den rasch au eis höckle gha. Was für es amüsants Böötli mir gsi sind, zwei agrüschleti Turis und en bekiffte Gondeleri😂😂😂
      Mir händ den bimene Garte no en Halt gmacht und händ Schlange, Kameleon und e Tierart, wos nur dete git, chöne aluege. Axolotl, das sind mölch wos nur in mexiko git.

      Wieder zrug simer mit emene Uber witer zum Casa Azul. Da mer richtig Hunger gha hend, simer no schnäll bim Markt e Torte (Sandwich) und e Quesedilla für uf de Weg go hole. Bizli zspaat, oder in Mexico ebe genau richtig, hämer no mit eusem Timeslot is Museum ine chöne.
      Das Huus, wo d Frida gläbt het isch wüki wunderschön und richtig farbig. Es het aber richtig viel Mänsche gha, das eus d Lust zum alles Läse und gnau aluege bizli vergange isch. Zuegeh euses Morgerüschli isch sicher au nöd ganz unschuldig dra gsi🙈😂
      Nach em gmüetliche spaziergang simer nomal a de mega tolli Markt und hend seinte oder andere no krämlet.
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    • Day 2

      First day exoloring CDMX

      March 3, 2023 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

      Breakfast with terrible tea but great chilaquiles and huevos rancheros.
      Strolling around Coyoacan & Roma.
      Tried to follow the piñata taxi to the the party but we lost it. Insteadwe found some nice tacos and clamato - now i can die in peace 🕊️Read more

    • Day 57

      Mexico City IV: Coyoacán

      October 6, 2022 in Mexico ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

      Today, we took a longer ride out south to the bohemian arts quarter of Coyoacán, where Frida Kahlo used to live. With low buildings and tree shaded alleyways, it seems almost like a village in the city.
      After a hearty breakfast (no more scrambled eggs and no more tacos please), we explored the quarter a bit. At noon, we had tickets to enter the Frida Kahlo museum. The building - the blue house where she actually lived - was beautiful, however both Esther and I are not the greatest admirers of her art itself.
      In the afternoon, we had booked a food tour with our great guide Rosa, who showed us all Coyoacán has to offer. Which is essentially tacos in all shapes and forms and fillings. We still had a great time as we also felt like we got to know the area a lot better.
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    • Day 5

      Xochimilco, Frida Kahlo museum & Coyocan

      January 3 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      First-thing we headed out to the floating gardens of Xochimilco on the fringes of the city. We jumped on a boat for a tour of the canals that meander through this area. Xochimilco is significant as they were once connected to the Aztec capital of Tenochtitlan (now Mexico City) by a causeway and is where the Aztecs grew much of their food due to the fertile nature of the land. Now the canals are lined with modern properties and a LOT of tourist boats (although locals also hire them for various parties). The trip was a little underwhelming, we expected to see vibrant colours of flower growers and all kinds of activities going on but there wasn’t much of interest apart from seeing the ancient canals which I am sure have been modified heavily since the Aztecs were about (we’re probably spoilt by previous experiences of floating markets and gardens in SE Asia and India)!

      Moving on we headed to Coyocan, a suburb on the outskirts of Mexico City. The vibe here was completely different! It’s a colonial village which has been absorbed by the city but the Spanish influence was abundant in the architecture. Coyocan is an artsy location, our first visit was to a renowned Mexican artists home, Frida Kahlo. Now a museum it has been left almost as it was the day she died with rooms dedicated to her life and art. She was a real troper, at a young age she contracted Polio and at 18 she was severely injured in a bus accident which left her largely bedridden. Whilst this caused her many challenges through life her love of art persisted. It was nice to slow the pace a little and wonder through the museum. Unusually Bert fell asleep on Marks shoulder so he had to lug the dribbling dead weight about and Elana enjoyed the gardens, self-portraits and paintings of fruit and veg!

      After the museum and a spot of lunch in the local market we had the chance to stroll the streets of Coyocan, whist enjoying a spot of lunch in the local market, taking in the architecture and admiring another Basilica. Elana enjoys going in, looking at the artwork and observing people at prayer. Perhaps it gives her the opportunity to gather her own thoughts! Alas another day complete and back to our hotel in the centre of downtown, tomorrow we head to Oaxaca!
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    • Day 20

      Day Seven - Coyoacán

      May 2 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

      We bussed down to a new neighbourhood today, Coyoacán. Gail and I will be staying here for six nights later in our trip. What a pretty town square and shops. First stop was the Leo Trotsky home. While he was briefly Frida Kahlo’s lover, his history is brutal. His troops were stationed away from the front lines to capture and kill any Russian soldier who tried to escape. His home displays his personal life, office and a good history of his involvement and then escape from Stalin’s wrath (although not successfully as he was killed in Mexico City by Stalin’s henchmen). In any case, it was a great spot to visit.

      Next we visited a Mexican cultural arts museum. The items were considered “craft” which is usually reserved for women’s art. Ceramics, textiles, beadwork demonstrated incredible artistry and skill - and a bit of whimsy too. I loved the giant elephant covered with seed-beads. This was an homage to the Africans living in Mexico. It was unclear if this was about slavery or just diaspora. It seems like there is a concerted effort to celebrate the rich indigenous heritage here.

      We found a taco place to die for. All over Mexico City tacos are the main show. The trick is to only eat at the ones that are busy with customers - they know what is good. Since all the tortillas are made just with corn, Sheryl can eat them all and she has.

      Next stop were the lines for the Frida Kahlo family home. There were scant examples of her artwork except drawings on her body casts and prosthetic legs. They had her bed with the mirror above so she could paint/draw her self-portraits. I didn’t realize that in addition to her catastrophic trolley crash that impaled her body, she also had polio as a child. It is a miracle she lived. Like many homes, she and her family had a beautiful central garden allowing airflow and privacy from the street. It was pretty packed as museums go. It’s not a very large house and the narratives were detailed. If you were patient enough, it was super fun and informative.

      Tomorrow we head over to the historic center of Mexico City where we will spend three nights with Gail Gabler. Can’t wait!
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    • Day 29

      Mexico City: Sales & Marketing

      March 4, 2020 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      After another overnight bus, early morning finds me back at the Terminal Norte in Mexico City. The long-distance buses, while not always being punctual, are generally comfortable and efficiently run. They are classified (this one is first class) and by checking in at the Manzanillo ticket office, I get notification of the vehicle number. Always useful to ensure one gets on the right one. They tend to take breaks only to swap drivers which leaves no time to get food en route but most services provide sandwiches and water as sustenance. At Terminal Norte I deliberately avoid the fast food chains and find a downmarket but perfectly adequate place for the morning fix of huevos rancheros. when they ask for my name to call out when they're ready, I say Alan---quite a common name in Mexico and easier to pronounce than James!

      Back in Roma it's like coming home. Hard to believe I've been away less than a month. I get there via 2 changes of Metro, one of which involves a 5+ minute underground walk. But a bargain for 5 pesos (20p). The empty lot next door to Oaxaca 21 where there was such a commotion on my last stay has been tinned up. Otherwise no changes.

      A siesta to recover from the journey charges me up for the markets. The nearest one is Mercado Medellin, where stalls specialise in products from around the continent. By a coincidence I find Chile and Cuba next to each other both here and on street names in the city centre. The biggest one in the centre is Mercado Merced, at least 10 times the size of a football pitch and every conceivable item is sold, all assembled with microscopic precision. But how will they---both stallholders and customers---manage when the virus strikes?
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Coyoacán, Coyoacan, Coyoacán Borough, Delegación de Coyoacán

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