• Eqi Glacier

    24 июня 2023 г., Гренландия ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

    Today involves a two hour boat trip to the Eqi glacier north of Illulisatt and opposite a settlement called Arsivik, not that we were anywhere near that or could even see it, but you might be able to find it on Google Maps. Once again we were in a fast boat, but it still took two hours to get there.

    This glacier is apparently the fastest calving glacier in the world so we were hoping to see another calving but maybe not so up front and personal as before. The trip there was straightforward and relatively clear of icebergs, compared to where we had been, but once we neared the glacier the sea was full of ice. We were surrounded by it in fact so the boat had to push its way through to get as close as it could. When we could go no further we were still over 800m from the ice wall.

    I've taken video here and as I can only post one video per footprint so I've split this so you can see what I've taken. The videos give a much better idea of what we were experiencing.
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  • Illulisatt

    24 июня 2023 г., Гренландия ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

    You've already seen the view across the town from my hotel room, but this the view along the street looking towards one of the supermarkets in town - there's a Spar too, just like everywhere else.

    I was heading to the nearest supermarket to get some snacks for today, it's the dark blue building in the main photo, just past the electronics store where you can buy TVs, cameras and drones etc. The supermarket was pretty large and was stocked with everything you'd expect, including Gold Blend coffee. The quality of the fresh food and vegetables was high and easily as good, if not better, than at home.

    The last photo is of the hotel as I was walking back. Compared to the majority of buildings in Illulisatt it really stands out doesn't it. The airport is about to be modernised so it can cope with jets, not just small aircraft, and I suspect our hotel is a sign of what is to come. New hotels are already being built so change is happening and this will alter the lives of the people here, which is great, but I wonder what will be lost as a result. There are already quite a few tourists here, us included of course, and quite a number of boat tours to explore the icebergs. At the moment it doesn't feel commercialised, far from it in fact, but what will it be like in five years?

    Anyway, I purchased a few snacks to eat then returned to the hotel for breakfast. There was a long boat trip ahead of us that would fill the day.
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  • The Incongruous Meal

    23 июня 2023 г., Гренландия ⋅ ⛅ 2 °C

    We knew that a meal was included in our trip to Oqaatsut and I assumed it would be at the guest house, but it wasn't. It was actually in the building nearest to where the boats were moored. It was a restaurant called 'H8' - it had a huge yellow 'H8' painted on the roof.

    During the war the American forces dropped supplies to various locations in the area and so the pilots could tell one from another, they were numbered. This location was H8 and the next one along H9 and so on, but now the building with the number is an exceedingly posh restaurant run by a Danish company. The prices on the board are in Danish, not the local currency, though as one would pay by card I guess it doesn't matter.

    This was Michelin Star level gormet food. The meal was excellent, all included with our excursion and only the drinks to pay for, being a set meal with reindeer for the main course. Each course was presented and explained to us before we ate.

    It was amazing to be pampered like this in a location such as this and definitely a great experience, but just outside there were forty people living like they do. I couldn't help thinking about that as we left to return to Illulisatt.
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  • Trip to Oqaatsut

    23 июня 2023 г., Гренландия ⋅ ☀️ 4 °C

    After our morning walk, we took fast boats to visit Oqaatsut, a small settlement north of Illulisatt. There are no roads so the only way to reach the village us by boat, though you can walk along a trail which is eight miles, I think.

    On the way there one of drivers (is that the right word?) thought they saw a whale so we spent some time searching for it. Everyone was eager to see one but after quite a while the two boats headed for the village, having failed to spot it.

    There are about forty people living here and how on earth they manage I will never know. There's nothing here and in the winter the sea freezes so I'm not sure how boats get here. I'm also not sure if walking is an option given temperatures can be -30c. Or maybe they are just used to it.

    There is a small infant/primary school here but when the children are older they go to school in Illulisatt. Fishing provides the main income.

    I enjoyed visiting but it did feel a little strange to be honest. As you can see, there are no defined gardens so I had no idea if I was intruding. The locals pretty much ignored us so I wonder what they must make of all this, when strangers arrive by boat, wander around taking photos then leave. There is a guest house on the hill where you can get a coffee but we didn't use it.

    I didn't go too close to any of the houses and didn't take all that many photos either, because it felt wrong somehow. I ended up finding a comfortable rock and looked out to sea and although I didn't see it, some of the group say they saw a whale in the distance. I think they did, or maybe it was just wishful thinking.
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  • Morning Board Walk

    23 июня 2023 г., Гренландия ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

    We were late to bed, perhaps 2.30am or so and sleep was welcome I must say.

    Breakfast was at 9.30am and afterwards we grabbed our camera gear and took taxis across town to this board walk that takes you over rocky and boggy ground to the coast. This was much further around the southern headland than our first walk with an excellent view across the Icefjord. If you follow the fjord to the left you arrive at one of the tongues from the massive ice sheet that covers much of Greenland. This is where all these icebergs originated but that is quite a way from here though.

    Once we arrived on the rocks at the end of the board walk there was time to pick out compositions, whilst those with drones flew them to see what they could find. Still no whales though.

    The weather was very pleasant and the views stunning and I found it an excellent opportunity to relax and simply appreciate where I was. Unbelievable really.
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  • Night Time Boat Trip

    23 июня 2023 г., Davis Strait ⋅ ☁️ 1 °C

    The evening excursion on Lisa, our faithful boat that kept us safe, was at 10pm until 1am and though in Britain that is at night, you can see that it is still very much day time here.

    The aim was the same as before, though we headed north out of the harbour this time. In this direction the icebergs were less densly packed, but it was thought that by going this way there may be more chance of seeing a whale.

    The evening light was lovely, being extremely yellow/gold. This might be due to the contrast between the iceberg white and the deep blue of the sea.

    As you can see, the nature of the photos here is different than this morning and although it had been cluttered, I felt that the morning cruise provided more of a photographic opportunity. I still got some photos however, but we didn't get to see a whale. 😓

    Overall then, an enjoyable time with no scary moments. 😂
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  • Ice Calving and Tidal Waves

    22 июня 2023 г., Гренландия ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    Not having the original video, I've screen recorded this from Nigel Danson's Instagram story. Make sure the sound is on and you play it from the beginning.

    You don't see it in the video here, but the drones saw ice debris landing around our boat. Fortunately nothing landed on us.

    I think he's correct, this is a very memorable event from the trip to Greenland. Unique and scary all in one. Totally amazing. Loved it.
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  • An Unexpected Event

    22 июня 2023 г., Гренландия ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    We had all settled into things after a while and I definitely started to see images worth taking. I'm sure loads weren't of course, but I'm confident some were worth it ... hopefully, with luck! 😄

    You can see from the photos here that even these phone images have a more considered look to them, but what's with the first photo, which appears similar to the last one in this footprint?

    This iceberg is very special because not long after I took these two photographs, with my phone and my camera, something totally unexpected happened.

    Look carefully at the right hand edge of the iceberg, it looks like a face maybe. Look at the side and you see some cracks which most icebergs have. Nothing special then?

    At first there was a loud crack then the face of the iceberg fell away to the sound of crashing ice. We all tried to photograph it - we had our cameras to hand of course - and luckily some were able to video the event. There were even two drones in the air. It was spectacular and we felt so lucky to have seen it so close. Then the mood changed.

    That tumbling ice caused tidal waves which were now racing towards us. The first wave wasn't too bad, but then the second very large and dark wave appeared which, in all honesty, was extremely scary. A few of the group felt our time was up.

    It was quite scary but I could see our skipper turning the boat so it would ride the wave, and it did. My video at the end of this footprint records things just after the waves passed through and you can hear the relief in the comments, so make sure the sound is on.

    I can only add one video to a footprint so in the next footprint you can see a video showing the waves pass through.
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  • The First Boat Trip

    22 июня 2023 г., Гренландия ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    During the week there were four boat trips scheduled to allow us to get up close and personal with the icebergs. There were two days allocated for these 4hr excursions and each had a daytime sailing then an evening departure at 9pm.

    Our boat was called Lisa, as you can see, and our first trip left at 11am. It's not a big boat but it is ideal for twelve photographers and its small upper deck was ideal for those wanting to fly drones. I was surprised that not only Nigel and Jeroen (our workshop leaders) had them, but also four of the group, so potentilly up to six drones could be in the air. In reality this never happened because flights were coordinated and the most that were in the air at once was actually four.

    Lisa headed out of the harbour and turned south towards the area we had photographed from land last night, but now we were quite a way from there and trying to make sense of what we were seeing. Yes, I know we were surrounded by icebergs, of every size imaginable, but how to you make photographs from what appears to be a jumbled mess?

    As Lisa motored deeper into the iceflow the bergs became bigger and we started to find order in the disarray around us. It was definitely hard as compositions would appear and disappear in seconds as the boat moved slowly through the drifting ice. I took loads of photos but it was rather overwhelming if I'm honest. More practice was definitely needed.
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  • A Long Day

    22 июня 2023 г., Гренландия ⋅ ☁️ 1 °C

    When you are out taking photos time seems to disappear and all of a sudden it was getting late. The group didn't stay in the same place all evening and at one point we split up to explore. We walked to another location but a few went much further on to get higher and see more of the coast, but I decided not too. Mist occasionally drifted through obscuring the view, so I decided to stay lower.

    On the way back the light improved and perhaps my best photo was taken as we were walking back into the town. It was getting late now and we were all getting very tired: I was definitely glad to get back and sleep and I know I'm not the only one who felt that way.

    Somehow, I think you are going to see a lot of icebergs for a while. 😄
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  • An Evening Walk

    21 июня 2023 г., Гренландия ⋅ ☁️ 1 °C

    Having discovered our rooms and sorted ourselves out we then went out with our cameras. Our first stop was for something to eat and drink then we walked to the southern end of the town, down to a wooden stairway. This took us up onto the granite rocks where we could then walk along the coast, following yellow markers.

    It was only now that we could all appreciate the scale of things. Yes, there were normal sized icebergs, if you know what I mean, but there were impressively masssive ones too and as I looked southwards they were so big they looked like mountains to my eyes. Clearly they weren't as big as that in reality, but they were huge and did look exactly like a mountain range.

    When we first arrived at a suitable location to stop and take photos, pretty much everyone wondered how on earth you could photograph what lay before us and do it justice. This was going to be hard.
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  • Arriving in Illulisat

    21 июня 2023 г., Гренландия ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    The next time we saw the ground is as we were on final approach to Illulisat airport, which is tiny and the reason only small aircraft can fly there. We were pleased to see icebergs as we descended, given that's one of the reasons we came here, to photograph them.

    The final two photos show the view from my room after I had checked in at the hotel. I can't complain for sure and it got better too. The hotel was lovely in fact and not what you'd expect in a small town in western Greenland.
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  • Flying Over Greenland

    21 июня 2023 г., Greenland Sea ⋅ ⛅ 2 °C

    The first part of the flight was crossing the ocean towards the coast of Greenland. There was much excitement and taking of photos when the east coast was spotted. There were no clouds so we had a fantastic view of the coast and the many thousands of icebergs, which none of us had expected to see. I'm not sure why, but we didn't and it was an amazing sight. Mind you, having said that they can be seen using Google Earth but I just never looked before. 🙄

    Later, over central Greenland somewhere, we saw mountain tops rising up through the ice sheet and once more, the phones and cameras were snapping frantically.

    Those were the only photo opportunities given to us because soon after the clouds obscured our view.

    (The GPS coordinates on my phone didn't update in the plane so the location for this footprint is completely wrong.)
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  • Leaving for Greenland

    21 июня 2023 г., Исландия ⋅ 🌬 7 °C

    Having returned my car to the rental office at the airport, it was a short walk to the Departures entrance. On passing the only hotel at KEF, one of the two group leaders was just walking from the front door: Nigel Danson, who has a landscape photography channel on YouTube. We therefore arrived at the meeting point where Jeroen, the other group leader, was waiting with one other person. By 5am everyone had arrived and the bags were checked in. It was a smooth run through security so we were all getting coffee in the departure lounge by 5.30 ... really early, given our flight wasn't until 8am.

    This gave us time to chat and get to know a bit about each other, though three of the group had met before on another workshop in Iceland. It was quite a range of people and though at first glance I thought I was probably the oldest, that turned out not to be true.

    Then it was time to board our 'huge' plane. You can see from the photos it was propeller driven, with only 8 rows of 4 seats plus a row of 5 against the rear bulkhead, which is where I was sitting though one of the five remained unused.

    The flight was to be a little over three hours - quite a long flight for such a small plane I thought, as the wheels left the tarmac.
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  • Keflavik

    20 июня 2023 г., Исландия ⋅ 🌬 10 °C

    Keflavik probably gets passed by because everyone who arrives at the airport is heading for somewhere else. Most people perhaps never even visit or know what it's like, but the town is only minutes away.

    It's pleasant enough and a nice residential area but I suspect it will always fall within the shadow of the airport. It made a great base for my overnight stay and there were a number of restaurants close to where I was staying. Before dinner I went for a walk to see what was there, then after I'd eaten I want back to my luxurious room, which was very basic with access to a shared bathroom. It was great actually and exactly what I'd looked for and I was well pleased with my choice. I wasn't late to bed though. Tomorrow I had to meet my group at 5am at the Meeting Point in Departures and as I lay in bed I wondered what would come next and if the group would be friendly. Would it be enjoyable, would the weather be okay, had I got enough warm clothes, the right camera gear or the right skills?

    It was all academic now, of course, because in just a few hours I'd find out, so all I needed to do now was arrive on time. I needed to head to the airport at 4.30am.

    And so I did.
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  • Gunnuhver Hot Springs

    20 июня 2023 г., Исландия ⋅ 🌬 10 °C

    Just a short three minute drive away things are very different. Here the air is filled with the smell of sulphur and as you move along the boardwalks the smell gets much stronger. You know the one ... rotten eggs. Yummy.

    You can get really close on the boardwalk but there are many signs warning not to stray from it. The ground is very hot here, though at one time it wasn't so bad and there was a house here where an artist lived, making pottery from the clay and painting.

    It was quite warm standing by the vent, watching the boiling water and steam, then every now and then you'd get surrounded by the drifting cloud. If you stayed too long in it, you would quite wet but I avoided that to be honest. I loved it here though.

    I then noticed the time and decided to head back to find my accommodation for the night. I was really glad I'd hired the car and never realised how much there was to see within 30 miles of the airport ... and I hadnt seen all there was to see either. Amazing.
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  • Reykjanestá Lighthouse

    20 июня 2023 г., Исландия ⋅ 🌬 10 °C

    Apart from the wind, the weather was lovely and this location was sheltered so it was just so beautiful here. With the sunshine, warmth, such green grass and those lupins, I spent a while just sitting here and relaxing. The views down by the sea were stunning too.

    I was puzzled as to why there was a keyboard bolted to the rocks here, but there was an information board explaining it so I've photographed for you to read. I remember seeing that sequence I think.

    It was unexpected to find this place amongst the barren volcanic landscape which surrounds it. So good.
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  • Volcanic Landscape

    20 июня 2023 г., Исландия ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    Here are views from one of the parking areas I stopped at, where I walked up to the top of a volcanic cone. It wasn't all that huge but I got a great view from the top as shown in the main photo. As well as the crater, which you can see in another photo, you can also see the orange tint to the rocks and a close up of a rock I picked up along the way. It was extremely light to hold which meant the lava was full of gas when it was flowing.

    Walking up was no problem, but returning was somewhat tricky due to the very strong winds. At one point I thought I'd get blown off the top and finding my footing between the rocks, whilst being blown about, was quite hard. It was very much worth the effort though.
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  • Exploring the Coast Road

    20 июня 2023 г., Исландия ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    As I drove away from the old lighthouse I didn't really have too much idea about what to expect. I'd never explored this peninsula before and assumed it would be just a pleasant drive until I discovered there is so much to see in this area.

    It wasn't too long before the views became very Icelandic as I drove through old lava fields consisting of all sorts of shapes, with flat slabs of granite and volcanic vents. I was in my element here, stopping at various parking stops to take-in the views.

    My first proper stop was at the Bridge Between Continents, which is exactly that - the place where the North American and Eurasian continental plates are joined. I photographed the diagram for you to see.

    The wind was still very strong here and I was constantly sand blasted as I explored the site so I decided to give up trying to use my 'big' camera. Using the phone was much easier given the conditions.

    Footnote: please be patient as I know I am many days behind in writing the footprints for this adventure. My time in Greenland is very much full-on with no time to even catch my breath ... there's so much to show you so I'll try and catch-up as soon as I can.
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  • Garður Old Lighthouse

    20 июня 2023 г., Исландия ⋅ 🌬 9 °C

    One of the options I had considered for today was to hire a car and go exploring but it seemed an awfully expensive option. However, I couldn't get into my accommodation until this afternoon and it was still early morning .. I was in Arrivals in no time so it was still only 8.30am.

    Having done my check-in for tomorrow's flight with Icelandair, I decided to get a coffee and a snackette and have a think. I then had this amazing revelation, an inspiring event of blinding light - given one only lives once, just rent the car. 🙄

    This turned out quite tricky because none of the car hire companies in the terminal had a car available for just a day, though I got the feeling they just didn't want to hire out a car for such a short period. I then got the invite to join the West Greenland 23 WhatsApp group, which I joined, and I then messaged Jeroen (one of the two leaders) for some ideas of how to get a car. Direct messaging, he suggested getting a bus to Reykjavik and getting a car from there and he even sent me a Google Maps route to follow. The route was great but I'd lose a lot of time travelling by bus to the city as I think it's 30 miles away, with many stops.

    In the end, I found a rental company a short walk from the terminal, so with my suitcase in the boot, my camera gear in the car and Google Maps to guide me, I left the airport to go exploring and my first stop was a suggestion given to me by the rental company on a Post It note with a list of places to visit.

    My goodness was it windy, I could hardly stand up, but the weather was lovely other than that, though from these photos you would never guess it was Iceland. That would soon change.
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  • The Time Has Come

    20 июня 2023 г., Англия ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    It's an early start to catch my flight to Keflavik in Iceland - so excited this morning.

    It was a ten minute walk to the terminal where I arrived at 4am then at 4.30 I was sitting with a coffee and a pain au chocolate in the departure area. It was such an easy procedure and my camera and laptop bag sailed through security, as did I. Thank you London Luton airport. 🥳

    My flight pulled back from the gate two minutes early and arrived at Keflavik 30 mins early, so I think this all counts as a perfect flight.

    Now, I had nothing planned for today with time on my hands until 5am when I meet the group for the flight to Greenland.

    So there I was, in an airport in Iceland and no plan for what do do next.
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  • Luton Airport

    19 июня 2023 г., Англия ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Quite some years ago there was a song by Lorraine Chase called 'Luton Airport' and having just checked the lyrics, I'm surprised it got as high as 22 in the charts ... bet you can't stop yourself finding them now I've said that! 😉

    So here I am at the aforementioned airport, the evening before I properly begin this adventure, sitting in the bar of the Holiday Inn Express waiting for food to arrive. I know I've flown from here before, probably about when that song was in the charts, but I have no memory of it so it's new to me all over again.

    It's an early start tomorrow with the flight leaving at 0600 to Iceland. On Wednesday at 0500 I shall be meeting up with a group to travel to Western Greenland for a week then, upon returning to Iceland, I shall once again be visiting the stunning south east coast. For two weeks then, the ice will never be far away. I'm hoping that's true for good weather too.

    So far, my adventures into the Arctic Circle have always been in winter, a beautiful time to go, but now it is summertime when the sun never sets at this time of year. How different it will be.

    I will post a Penguin footprint as often as I can, though it may well be harder to do when I'm in Greenland with other photographers, so please be patient. As always, the photos I post will be taken on my phone with maybe an occasional photo from the 'big' camera if I have something special to show.

    I would love you to travel with me along the way because I really enjoy reading your comments and answering your questions. Hopefully you will enjoy the journey too.

    The photo in this footprint is the view from my room just after I arrived. I can be pretty confident it definitely gets better than this. 😄
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  • The End of a Wonderful Road Trip

    2 августа 2022 г., Англия ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    The lead photo today was actually taken as I arrived at Ullswater and not far from the car park for my overnight stop. I'm not sure you can see that it is raining but it was and I don't think it stopped raining all night. It was heavy at times too, and still raining as I ate breakfast, though by the time arrived home it was dry and 24C.

    A first task today was to make a phone call to arrange for me to stop off in Stoke-on-Trent for a quick van repair, which was fine. So after a leisurely start I headed back to the M6 to continue my journey towards home. The weather had brightened as I left so it was a dry ride back and after about an hour and a half in Stoke, the roof latches were fixed and I continued on my way.

    So that's it then, the end of what has been a wonderfully surprising and enjoyable adventure. It was enjoyable for many reasons which I hope you've spotted when reading my ramblings and it was so nice to meet up with the mariners as they progressed around the UK on their own adventures. What was surprising about this trip was just how much this changed my mood and how it provided ideal conditions for a cloud of calmness to descend over me. That is not something you can buy.

    I will reflect more on this over the coming days and may well post an extra footprint to summarise this trip as a whole and to post a selection of photos from my big camera, but they need processing before I do this so be patient.

    As always, I hope to return from a photography trip like this with a small collection of photographs I can add to my portfolio and which are hopefully good enough to enter into photographic competitions. It would be nice if I could have ten, so that is my aim.

    Thank you for following my journey over the last 18 days or so, which seems no time at all for me, and I hope you have enjoyed seeing my photos and the journal I've created, because I realise I've written quite a bit at times. If you have enjoyed it and if it's brought a smile to your face at times, then that is all I could hope for. Speaking for myself, the travel blogs on here provide a vivid memory of my adventures which I can look back on for many years to come, assuming Find Penguins keeps going of course.

    So maybe I'll see you on the next trip, wherever that might be, but don't forget to check back at some point to see what will hopefully be the ten best camera photos of this trip. Coo, exciting or what?
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  • Completing a Circle

    1 августа 2022 г., Шотландия ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    As I mentioned yesterday, today would be a much longer drive so when I looked outside first thing I was pleased the weather looked good with lovey blue sky - photo 2.

    There aren't many photos today because it really is a just a driving day plus, as I travelled further south, the views were simply not as inspiring. Don't get me wrong, there were some stunning views at times but I really needed to get the miles done to get to Ullswater, then I discovered later in the day that it was actually important I kept to the plan due to an unexpected stop that needed to be made tomorrow. So why was this?

    I had joined the M74 that runs down through Glasgow on the way to the M6 and was cruising at around 60mph when all of a sudden there was the sound of rushing wind. My immediate thought was that the pop-top roof had come away from its fixings and when I stopped at the next junction to check, having reduced speed in the meantime, I discovered I was correct. Not only had it popped, but I could not get the latches to sit correctly or even remain tightly locked.

    At first I was concerned for the rest of the journey, but I managed to bodge things so the latches were safely fixed but there was still a problem with them that needed rather more than the roll of bin bags I used to make sure they wouldn't snap open again. I won't bore you with the details, but that roll of bin bags worked a treat so the plan, therefore, was to continue to Ullswater and deal with this tomorrow when I would be passing Stoke-on-Trent, which is where my van was converted into a campervan. With luck I will be able to call in for a quick repair.

    The further I travelled south the more grey the skies became and then came the occasional shower, then full on torrential rain at times. There was even fog at times, though more likely it was low cloud so"Welcome to England", I thought and was surprised because whenever I've gone to Scotland before and then returned, I've left the rain behind me and have been welcomed to my home country with sunshine. But, as I'm sure you know, variety is the spice of life.
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  • Thank You Forestry Scotland

    31 июля 2022 г., Шотландия ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Once again the App on my phone helped me choose this location for my last night in Scotland - a small Forestry Scotland car park where the signage clearly sets out the rules for campervans to stay the night free of charge, but no caravans are allowed simply because there isn't room for them.

    I was pretty much the last one to arrive, with five of us there overnight - two motorhomes and three campervans of a similar size to mine. Once again, there are no facilities here so you need to be self-sufficient and, as in all places you stop, make sure you leave no trace that you have been there.

    I was rewarded with a sunset tonight. which was nice, and on my way to the road to photograph it I noticed that of the vans parked here, I was the only British representative. Switzerland, France and Germany were here so this was a truly European gathering, though no socialising because everyone stayed in their vans.

    On the way back to my van, having photographed the sunset, I took the last photo here which does make my van look very small compared to those motorhomes and that is exactly why I went for a Ford Transit Custom to be converted. It isn't much bigger on road space that my estate car so works well on all those single track roads. Motorhomes do have more room in them of course, but are so cumbersome in comparison and some of the really big ones, I feel, should not be on single track roads at all. They are definitely not for me.

    Tomorrow I cross the border back to England with a much longer drive tomorrow. I'm heading for the same National Trust car park alongside Ullswater where I started this trip more than two weeks ago. I thought that will round things off quite nicely.
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