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Argentina and Italy 2023/2024
  • Roch Pelletier
  • Brendaboo
  • Roch Pelletier
  • Brendaboo

Argentina and Italy 2023/2024

This year we're doing a rare follow-up visit to a place we visited less than a year ago. Argentina dug her way into our hearts in 2022 and we felt like we needed to do a deep dive into her capital city, Buenos Aires. Read more
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  • Trip start
    December 7, 2023
    Argentina and Italy 2023/2024

    Back in B.A.

    December 8, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Our seven-day stay in Buenos Aires last year was merely a quick dip of our toes into the vast ocean of experiences the city has to offer. Even before we left there last January, we had decided we would return this winter to dive right in to the city.

    Of course, little did we know that, in the interim, a new, far right-wing government would be elected; one promising to dismantle the central bank and dollarize the peso. It could make for interesting times. Viva la revolución!

    We left home at 10:00 AM on Thursday morning to arrive at YVR a couple of hours before flight time and we didn’t touch down in Buenos Aires until 3:00 PM on Friday. By the time we cleared customs and rode an Uber into the city, we arrived at our AirBnb at 4:30 PM. Even after accounting for the five-hour time difference, that’s still twenty-six hours of traveling.
    Air Canada did a good job on these flights.

    The trip went smoothly with decent food and drink, free Wi-Fi on the Canadian leg of the trip, free texting all the way to B.A. and, after flying us 11,250 kilometers, we arrived in Buenos Aires right on schedule.

    Our first day here was spent unpacking, getting our bearings, stocking our fridge and pantry and getting some much-needed rest. Oh, and rest I did, waking up Saturday morning at 11:10 AM!!!

    While we’re here, Brenda will be taking weekly cello lessons with an English-speaking instructor. Her new travel cello made it onto all our flights with no issues along with my Traveler guitar. Brenda’s focus will be on the Bach Cello Suite No.1 while my self-taught musical training will be on mastering playing slide guitar (The Allman Guitar Sweet). Thank heaven for YouTube.

    We’re staying in a nice little one-bedroom condo in the Palermo-Soho section of B.A. It’s a great area filled with restaurants, mom and pop fruit stands, supermarkets and beautiful green spaces. We’re close to a subway station for trips farther afield and near enough to downtown to walk there.
    The weather over the last couple of days is cooler than we expected, about 22°C, but we’re certain it’ll warm up as summer progresses. No complaints though.

    Experience tells us that we’ll be on a flight back to Vancouver seemingly within the blink of an eye, so we plan to make the most of our time here.

    Good food, good wine, good company and good weather, who could ask for more?    Read more

  • Argentina and Italy 2023/2024

    Getting To Know You...

    December 12, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Wow, we've already been here five days and the time has flown by. When we arrive in a new city for the winter, we always start by exploring the neighborhood, stocking the fridge and pantry and making our temporary home as comfortable as possible.

    Our first stop was to pick up the money we had wired to ourseves at Western Union. When we left here last January, the exchange rate was 250 pesos per Canadian dollar. On Thursday, the rate was 685 pesos per dollar! Of course, the prices in stores and restaurants are also much higher, but once one calculates the true cost at the new exchange rate, many items are less costly to us. Both Chandon and Mumm's have production facilities in Mendoza, and their bubblies are available for about $5.00 CDN. Insofar as the quality goes, it's just as good as the French version and, in the case of Mumm's, much better. We've been scouring the stores for our local favorite sparkler, Los Perdices Rosé, but we haven't found it anywhere. YET!

    Sunday was the inauguration of the new president, Javier Milei and we wisely decided to hang around Palermo, far away from the huge crowds and rabid supporters downtown. From what we saw on TV, it looked like things went pretty smoothly with less pomp and circumstance than the US inaugurations I've seen. I don't care for Milei's politics, but his whole campaign focused on getting the country's economy back on track. He's got a big hill to climb, but with 40 % of the population living in poverty, I wish him the best of luck.

    As usual, we're been putting quite a bit of mileage on our shoes the last few days and have come across some interesting local wildlife. On our morning walk around the park, we saw some cute little critters grazing on the grass in the botanical garden. I first took them to be Capybaras, but they were much too small and had long thin legs. Brenda said they looked like a cross between a bunny and a dog. BAD ROVER!!! In the end, Google identified them as Patagonian Maras. Huh?!?

    The next day, on our way to lunch, four parakeets flew overhead and perched on the electric wires above us. These little guys were making such a racket, I couldn't resist filming them. Of course, the minute I hit record they shut up. Thankfully, they gave another brief serenade before flying off.

    And so now that we have all our shopping done and errands run, we can get down to the serious business of getting into our daily routine and fully enjoying this fascinating city.    Read more

  • Argentina and Italy 2023/2024

    I Say Tomato and You Say Tomaté

    December 14, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    On my way to the gym today, one of the local restaurants was receiving case after case of heirloom tomatoes and had set up tables at a couple of different points along the sidewalks. They were also decorating the walls of the restaurant with the different coloured fruit and handing out complimentary bags of tomatoes to passers-by. There was a harp player, a singer and some dancers performing at the restaurant entrance and waiters were passing through the gathered crowd with trays of tomato chunks perfectly seasoned with a sprinkle of olive oil, balsamic and salt. Mmm-mmm good.

    It turns out the restaurant, and its sister restaurant a couple of blocks away, were having "una fiesta de tomates". We couldn't quite figure out what prompted the unadvertised event, but we sure were glad to have stumbled upon it.

    Brenda and I each got a bag of tomatoes to go. Both bags were genererously filled with a variety of perfectly ripe, delicious fruit (Brenda's more generously filled than mine due to her using her charm and beauty on the chef).

    We went back to our apartment and had our own little impromptu tomato feast and still have more leftover for another meal.

    Thank you Don Julio restaurant!    Read more

  • Argentina and Italy 2023/2024

    Boom Boom! Out Go The Lights

    December 18, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ 🌧 21 °C

    Saturday was a steamy, hot day in Buenos Aires. Temperatures were in the low thirties and humidity in the high eighties. Storm alerts started popping up on my my phone in the late afternoon. Weather like this is usually seen in mid-January, not December.

    The condo we're in doesn't face the street, but looks onto a "courtyard" and a concrete wall. Essentially, we can see a small patch of sky, can tell if it's day or night, and whether it's raining or sunny. There is no breeze.

    Saturday night and early Sunday morning, we knew it was thundering and raining heavily, but we had no idea of the violent winds that were buffeting the city outside our walls. It was only when we turned on the news Sunday morning that we learned of the damage caused.

    Trees were down all over the city, more than half a million people were without electricity, hundreds of cars were damaged, and at least thirteen people were killed.

    When the rain stopped yesterday afternoon, Brenda and I went out for a walk and saw several branches downed and work crews out cleaning up. This morning, Brenda went for her morning walk in the park and REALLY got to see how bad things are. She had to add a little distance to her walk as she weaved her way through what she described as an obstacle course.

    Still don't believe in climate change?    Read more

  • Argentina and Italy 2023/2024

    Hallelujah! Hallelujah!

    December 18, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    One of the highlights of our seven day visit to Buenos Aires last year was the guided tour of the spectacular Teatro Colon. Our only disappointment was that the few performances remaining before the end of the season were all sold out.

    Just before we left Vancouver this year, Brenda learned that a performance of Handel's Messiah was scheduled for December 18! We immediately jumped on line and managed to find a pair of seats in the orchestra, only thirteen rows from the stage. We decided to go all out and spend the 32,000 pesos for the pair (under $50 CDN). I'd hate to think what they would have cost back home (in a far inferior venue).

    The only music I knew from this oratorio was the Hallelujah chorus, so I streamed a live YouTube concert from Sydney, Australia to get a better feel for what to expect. It turned out I was a little underwhelmed and feared I might embarrass Brenda by dozing off and snoring during the performance.

    Last night, we made our way to the theater and were ushered to our seats, which, by the way, were worth every last peso. The sheer beauty of the venue electrified us, and when the musicians, soloists, chorus, and conductor took to the stage, we were all in, and I knew right then that there would be no nodding off until I got home.

    The Messiah is performed in English, although it's hard to tell at times. Some words are sung in a volley of rapid fire scales and stretched over several bars. We both would glance up at the Spanish translation that was displayed on the curtain behind the chorus in an attempt to better understand the lyrics. That being said, the performances of all four soloists were outstanding. However, we both would have preferred that the parts sung in falsetto by the countertenor had been sung by a mezzo-soprano in full voice.

    The musicianship, under the guidance of the very passionate conductor, Ruben Dubrovsky, was faultless. The occasional appearance of a harpsichord, a trumpet, and timpanies just added to the surprises.

    The biggest surprise of all, however, came during the encore when, before leading the orchestra in a reprise of the Hallelujah Chorus, maestro Dubrovsky, a native Argentine, ripped off his tuxedo jacket and shirt to reveal a number 10 Argentina Football Club jersey. The crowd ate it up.

    I bet you didn't think this electric blues guitarist would have made it through a two hour and twenty minute spectacle like this, did ya? Yeah, well I fooled you, didn't I? I loved it!    Read more

  • Argentina and Italy 2023/2024

    Happy Friday!

    December 22, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    A tradition that Brenda and I have maintained since retiring is our end-of-the-week happy hour, which, at home, is usually a dram of good single malt. Here in Argentina, however, Scotch is very, very expensive. Fortunately, this wine producing nation offers mind-blowing Malbec at bargain basement prices and, as an added bonus, excellent sparkling wine produced using the Champagne method. So good is the Argentine terroir that Champagne powerhouses Chandon and Mumm have production facilities here. And so, today's happy hour libation is Mumm's Brut Rose that I picked up on sale at the local supermarket for 2080 pesos, about $2.89 CDN!
    Cheers!    Read more

  • Argentina and Italy 2023/2024

    I'm Dreaming Of A White Christmas (NOT)

    December 24, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    I've always been a sucker for classic Christmas carols at this time of year, so while I was doing a little kitchen prep, I fired up a Spotify playlist.

    And then it struck me just how bizarre Christmas is to a Canadian in Buenos Aires. It's 25 degrees Celsius outside, the trees are all green, and I'm living in shorts and sandals.

    "White Christmas" is only a dream to the locals, and nothing is really beginning to look a lot, or even a little bit, like Christmas.

    Christmas here is pretty low-key despite it being a Christian country. We barely see more Xmas decorations here than we see in Thailand, where it's predominantly Buddhist. This is also not a country that has a lot to offer vegans in terms of special holiday meals. Even though we have a kitchen at our Airbnb, we've decided to forego any elaborate cooking and concentrate on bubbles and desserts to celebrate the holidays.

    Chandon and Mumm's both have wineries in Argentina, and there are incredible wine sales at all the big supermarkets at the moment. A nice bottle of bubbles costs as little as $3.55 CAD, so we bought 4 bottles, some old favorites, and some new ones to try. We also have a bottle of Bailey's since it's our tradition to have Bailey's coffee on Christmas Eve.

    The pastries are absolutely amazing in Argentina. Roch is a huge fan of panettone, and there is no shortage of them here. We have a family-size pan dulce (though I think it was meant for more than a family of two!), a dozen of the country's "Best Alfajores", eight conitos de dulce de leche and an apple crumble tarte as well.

    Well, our Christmas may not be white, but it sure will be sweet, effervescent and very happy.    Read more

  • Argentina and Italy 2023/2024

    A Night At The Opera....House

    December 26, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    Tonight we made our second visit to Teatro Colon, not for an opera, but to see a ballet. Frankly, I'm not the most cultured person when it comes to this stuff, but back in July, I bought tickets for La Bayadera, a ballet I'd never heard of. The important thing was being able to see a production, any production in BA's spectacular opera house.

    Well, it was a good thing I didn't have my heart set on that ballet because a couple of months later, the program was changed to El Corsario, another ballet unknown to me.

    Based on Lord Byron's poem, The Corsair, the three act performance features a sailing ship, lots of pirates, slave girls, swashbuckling, betrayal, and love at first sight.

    And the production put on by Teatro Colon was absolutely world-class, breathtaking, and mesmerizing. With music provided by the Buenos Aires Philharmonic, a cast of probably a hundred dancers, and beautiful set design, Brenda and I were treated to a spectacle we won't soon forget.

    The dancers, particularly the main characters, floated across the stage, performing gravity-defying leaps and lifts, dizzying pirouettes, and seemingly effortless en pointe steps.

    Brenda and I were both captivated by the spectacle and were a little disappointed when the final curtain came down, ending the performance on a happy note with the two lovers in each other's arms.

    Sorry, no pictures from this one. Grouch, Harpo and Chico will have to do.    Read more

  • Argentina and Italy 2023/2024
    The burger and nugget freezer
    The vegan burger section.

    Hamburguesas

    January 4, 2024 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Argentina is well known for the abundance and quality of their beef. According to Wikipedia, Argentine annual consumption of beef has averaged 100 kg per capita, and approached 180 kg per capita during the 19th century! Pass the Lipitor, please. But it's not all about the steaks. This carnivorous nation has a love affair with anything meat related, from milanesas (pork veal or chicken cutlets) to chorizo, beef ribs, and lamb.

    However, the humble hamburger is probably one of the most popular go-to meals around. All the major fast food chains are present, along with an endless array of local burger joints of all calibers. There are even a couple of very good vegan burger joints here in B.A.

    We were in a supermarket yesterday that had 2/3 of a 15 meter long freezer aisle dedicated to an endless variety of burgers. The other third was for chicken nuggets. Oh, and across the aisle was another 7.5 meters of freezer filled with vegan burger options.

    Anyone for a nice green salad?    Read more

  • Argentina and Italy 2023/2024
    Sacro Cheese PlateActivated Charcoal EmpanadaAvocado MasalaSweet Potato RavioliLion's Mane Mushroom SteakAvocado Lime PieChui Mushroom PatéBirria Style TacosChui Pizza

    The Michelin Man

    January 7, 2024 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Aside from the sunny warm weather and wonderful people, one of the nicest things about Argentina is how affordable everything is for tourists. Despite having elected a new president who promised to get the economy back on track, inflation continues to soar and the peso's value keeps dropping.

    The peso, as I write this, is trading at just under 800 to the Canadian dollar, which allows Brenda and me to partake in luxuries that we wouldn't back home.

    For my birthday, Brenda invited me to Sacro, a Michelin Guide restaurant that has great reviews, and serves an entirely plant based menu. The ambience and decor was incredible, service was impeccable and the food was art on a plate.

    The entire menu is designed to be shared, and for starters, we chose three dishes. First was the seasonal cheese plate that consisted of Camembert and Blue spirulina and was served with kimchi, a creamy dill and lime sauce, sweet crackers and pickles. Then came the activated charcoal empanada, a pitch black pastry stuffed with mushrooms, and served with harissa on the side. Last, but not least was the Avocado Masala, a breaded half avocado served on a pool of curried yogurt with grilled potato flatbread. Needless to say, all were scrumptious.

    Then we moved on to the main courses. By this time, we were already getting full, but we soldiered on. First up was a bowl of sweet potato ravioli bathed in soubise (an onion based bechamel), and topped with grilled oyster mushrooms and funghi caviar. Next up was a peruvian inspired dish: Lion's Mane mushroom steak anticuchero style (marinated in vinegar and spices then grilled) served with Huancaino potatoes ( boiled potatoes in a spicy, creamy sauce made of queso fresco and grilled yellow pepper, red onion and garlic.

    You'd think that was enough, but NOOOOO! I had to have dessert, so we split a lovely individual Avocado lime pie made with condensed coconut milk and accompanied by candied pistachios. Mmmmm...

    Rather than stick with one wine for all these diverse flavors, we went with four different wines by the glass.

    This was probably the best dining experience of my life. Everything was incredibly creative, flavorful and pretty much perfect. There may be a return trip there before we leave Argentina.

    I'd hate to think what a meal like that would have cost in Vancouver, but including tip, Brenda spent $117.00 CDN to celebrate with me!

    Only four days later, we went for lunch at another Michelin Guide restaurant, Chui. The atmosphere there is much more casual than Sacro as it's located in a semi-open-air converted warehouse with brick walls, an open-air garden section and an open kitchen. The menu reflects the setting, serving more common dishes like tacos, sandwiches and pizza, all plant-based, of course.

    We started with a plate of wonderful grilled sourdough toast and a mixed mushroom paté, which although delicious, was very poorly presented. The first thing that came to my mind was one of the many stepped-in piles of doggy-doo we see on sidewalks here in BA. Please folks, put it in a ramekin next time.

    Next was a trio of Birria style tacos, cauliflower, cabbage, anticuchera sauce and avocado. They were quite delicious, if a little on the salty side.
    Finally, we had pizza, cooked in a wood oven and topped with sweet potato, pickled oyster mushrooms, basil pesto and cashew. This too, I found to be overly salty, but otherwise enjoyable. The crust was fantastic. Brenda didn't care for the flavor combinations, and, IF we return, we wouldn't order it again.

    I had a couple of Stella Artois to wash it all down and the bill was $36.00 CDN including tip.

    And so, four days, two Michelin Guide restaurants, and who knows how many calories later, I believe I may start looking like the Michelin Man himself!    Read more

  • Argentina and Italy 2023/2024

    Iguazu Falls

    Jan 13–16, 2024 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    My beautiful wife's birthday present to me this year was an excursion to visit a Unesco World Heritage site, the Iguazu Falls.

    THE WHAT?!?

    Most of us in North America know, or have visited, Niagara Falls, and have likely heard of Victoria Falls. But Iguazu, Nah.

    The Falls are located at the borders of Argentina, Paraguay, and Brazil, and form the border of Argentina and Brazil.

    The Iguazú Falls are a set of 275 waterfalls that reach up to 80 meters in height, and are declared one of the new Seven Natural Wonders of the World.

    While Niagara is surrounded by tacky neon signs, Iguazu is seated in the midst of a lush tropical rain forest, forty minutes from the nearest town. Niagara consists of three Falls, The Horseshoe, The American, and the Bridal Veil, all easily accessible on foot. The hundreds of falls in Iguazu are spread out over 3.5 km of the Iguazu River. There are 8 km of trails in Argentina available to explore the site and another 1.5 km in Brazil.

    The tallest waterfall at Iguazu Falls is called ‘Devil’s Throat’ and it has a drop of 82 meters. On the other hand, Niagara Falls,  has a maximum drop of 51 meters. 

    Apparently, when Eleanor Roosevelt visited Iguazu, she said, "Poor Niagara".

    Unfortunately, at the time of our visit, the Devil's Throat trail was closed, but what we got to see was nonetheless breathtaking. The pictures and video posted here really don't show the magnificence, nor the magnitude of this wonder of nature. Despite temperatures in the low thirties, we hardly noticed the heat thanks to the shade provided by the rain forest canopy and the awesome vistas at every turn.

    The Argentine government has done a remarkable job by installing easily walkable pathways in very remote areas, even over water.

    And of course, I'd be remiss if I didn't mention the throngs of coati that were hanging around food stalls and food courts. One of them was sniffing around Brenda's backpack, hoping she'd hand it one of the apples it contained. They're very cute, but there are many signs posted reminding us that they are not pets and warning of their bites.

    We've read that one goes to the Argentine side of the Falls for the close-up experience and to the Brazilian side for the views. I can't imagine them being more beautiful, but we'll find out for ourselves when we visit Brazil tomorrow!    Read more

  • Argentina and Italy 2023/2024
    11

    As Cataratas do Iguaçu

    January 15, 2024 in Brazil ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Puerto Iguazu, the town we're based in for our visit to the Falls, has very little to offer other than a lot of tourist shops, a slot machine casino, and parrilla restaurants. We struggled to find vegetarian food on menus, forget about vegan. On Saturday, we were kind of regretting having booked a three night stay here.

    Sunday's spectacular trip to explore the Argentine side of the Falls did a lot to ease the pain and reinforced our desire to visit their Brazilian side.

    Sunday night, we set our alarms early and caught the 7:30 bus, hoping to beat the crowds on this Monday morning. The forecast was calling for light rain all morning, but we found blue skies above when we arrived at the Falls' Brazilian visitor center. From there, we rode an open topped bus deep into the rain forest and then walked along a concrete path, taking us deeper still.

    Through the forest canopy, we began catching glimpses of the spectacle to come, eventually arriving at a platform that gave us an unrestricted view.

    Wow!

    Yesterday, from up close, we thought the Falls were impressive, but viewed from the Brazilian side, one sees just how vast the entire waterfall system really is. On top of that, with the early morning sun shining down, the mist created by the cascading water supplied us with rainbow after rainbow.

    At one point, the path extends out over the water and offers an unrestricted view of the millions of gallons of water pouring down from above and rushing under your feet. Enjoying this view, however, comes with a price: no one escapes without a good soaking by the mist.

    There truly are no words to describe this Wonder of the World, and sadly, the pictures CANNOT do it justice, but the memories will remain.

    So, in the end, we're glad we spent the extra day to look at Falls from both sides now, from up and down, and still somehow.....d'oh!

    Sorry Joni.    Read more

  • Argentina and Italy 2023/2024

    El Gordo Vegano

    January 24, 2024 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Both of us have been dragging our butts for the last ten days or so because of one of those nasty summer colds.

    Feeling a little more human today, we ventured to Belgrano, a new part of town for us, to try out another highly rated vegan restaurant, El Gordo Vegano (The Fat Vegan). Not a Michelin Guide restaurant, but a cozy little place that serves us really good vegan versions of comfort food.

    Brenda had their spinach and mushroom omelet, and I had an enormous "Churrasquito" sandwich, a grilled slab of grilled seitan smothered in chimichurri, grilled peppers, lettuce, tomatoes, ranch dressing and crispy potato matchsticks. As if that wasn't enough, it came with a side of slaw and a heap of roast potatoes.

    At the end of the meal, our server tried to convince us to try one of their small croissants for dessert, but we cried uncle. We did, however, opt to bring two "little" croissants home to have with dinner. When the waiter handed me the bag they were in, I almost dropped it because they were so unexpectedly heavy. Each croissant filled a bread plate, was filled with pastry cream, and was topped with vanilla icing and diced almonds. There was no dinner tonight, only the croissant and a cup of tea.

     The Fat Vegan indeed!    Read more

  • Argentina and Italy 2023/2024

    Find Penguins

    February 3, 2024 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    I've never been able to figure out why this app is called "Find Penguins," but, with good reason, I'm borrowing the name as the title to this post.

    I guess it takes a special kind of stupid to travel over 11,000 kilometers to escape our Canadian winter only to hop on a ship en route to the Antarctic, but that's exactly what we've done.

    Ok, it's not going to be anything like Shackleton's expeditions, but over fourteen days we will be stopping in Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world, and cruising around Cape Horn, before heading back North for stops in the Falklands and Montevideo.

    We're not sure if we'll see any penguins way down at the end of the world, but we're pretty sure to spot some icebergs and maybe some whales.

    As for finding penguins, the Falklands are home to more penguins than people, so we're pretty certain we'll find some there. 🐧 🐧 🐧    Read more

  • Argentina and Italy 2023/2024

    It's The End Of The World!!!

    February 7, 2024 in Argentina ⋅ 🌬 8 °C

    After four days at sea, we awoke this morning to our first glimpse of the rugged and craggy but very beautiful Marshall mountains of Patagonia. Now I understand the clothing line's logo

    The ship docked in Ushuaia, the southernmost city on the planet, whose motto is "the end of the world, the beginning of everything." Located right at the bottom of the continent, the city is renowned for the high winds that frequently buffet the city, today being no exception. Surprisingly, despite being so close to Antarctica, the lowest temperature on record is -21 °C! I've experienced much colder days in Montreal and Ottawa.

    Also surprisingly, this extremely remote city is home to over 82,000 people.

    After exploring the town a little, we went for a ride on the End of the World Train, a short sightseeing tour through the Tierra del Fuego National Park just outside the city. The railway was originally built to transport prisoners from Ushuaia to the Patagonian prison twenty-five kilometers away. When the prison was closed in 1947, the railway ceased operations and fell into disrepair before being resurrected as a tourist attraction in the 1990s.

    In the end, the ride was a little underwhelming, although the scenery was quite beautiful.

    Sadly, the only penguins we found today were in shop windows.    Read more

  • Argentina and Italy 2023/2024

    The REAL End Of The World

    February 8, 2024, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌧 7 °C

    Before going to bed last night, we were informed that the ship would be arriving at Cape Horn at 6:00am.

    Brenda and I are almost always conscious by that time of day, but just to be certain to see the Cape, we set an alarm for 5:55. Well, wouldn't you know it? The only morning we were sleeping soundly that early, we were awakened by an alarm!

    We threw on some warm clothes, made our way up to Deck 15 and braved the wind, cold and sleet to see the lighthouse and Cape Horn Monument that are built on the very tip of the continent. The Monument honors the mariners who lost their lives on the more than four hundred ships that sank here.

    And now it's on to Antarctica.    Read more

  • Argentina and Italy 2023/2024
    1

    Found Penguins!!!

    February 9, 2024, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    We sailed below the 60th parallel last evening at around 8:00 PM, which pretty much brought us into Antarctic waters. The temperature has been steadily dropping and I've had to start layering the few pieces of warm clothing I brought to Argentina.

    This morning, Brenda woke up, pulled open the curtains and said, "Oh, there are two ships out there." The thing is, she hadn't put on her glasses and the ships were actually two large icebergs! We were officially in the Antarctic.

    The ship continued sailing south until about 12:30 we arrived at the Schollaert Channel where we found a waddle of penguins (yep, that's what you call a group of penguins) floating along on a small iceberg. Listening to the attached video, you can hear our excitement.

    As we continued through the channel, we saw more and more, and larger and larger ice floes, spotted some humpback whales, and some breathtaking scenery before we arrived at our second stop, Paradise Bay. Here we saw another waddle of penguins perched upon a distant hill (too far off to photograph) and more humpback whales feeding in the distance. Aside from the fact that the bay is an inlet protected from the sometimes harsh waters beyond the bay, I really wouldn't consider it paradise by any stretch of the imagination.

    Being here is almost like being on a different planet, so rugged and inhospitable is the environment. But it is also strikingly beautiful in its own way. Sadly, because of we foolish humans, the continent is rapidly disintegrating and, unless mankind acts responsibly and quickly, will not be around for future generations to enjoy.

    We're glad we got to see it, cold, snow, and all.    Read more

  • Argentina and Italy 2023/2024

    Ice Sculptures

    February 10, 2024, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☁️ 1 °C

    From Le Carnaval de Quebec to Winterlude in Ottawa to the Ice Magic Festival in Lake Louise, ice sculpture competitions have been a winter tradition in Canada for decades.

    As good as we humans are at producing amazing works of art from blocks of ice, Mother Nature has it all over us.

    Zoom in to see the intricate lines carved into some of the bergs.    Read more

  • Argentina and Italy 2023/2024

    Elephant Island

    February 10, 2024 in Antarctica ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    Over one hundred years ago, Ernest Shackleton set out on a trans-Antarctic expedition with a crew of twenty-seven aboard the Endurance. After six weeks at sea, on January 19, 1915, Endurance became frozen solid in an ice floe, where it remained until spring arrived in September. Unfortunately, as it thawed and shifted, the ice put extreme pressure on the hull of Endurance, resulting in her sinking on November 21. Shackleton and his crew floated on ice floes and lifeboats until April 14, 1916, when they set foot on Elephant Island 557 kilometers from where Endurance sank, and 497 days from the last time they had been on dry land.

    Because Elephant Island was so far from any shipping lanes with virtually no chance of rescue, ten days later, Shackleton and five crew set off for South Georgia in search of help. He eventually succeeded, but the remaining twenty-two members of his crew spent four and a half months stranded on Elephant Island before Shackleton was able to return to rescue them.

    Today, from the warmth and comfort of our ship, we got a glimpse of the harsh and desolate land where those twenty-two poor souls endured more suffering and hardship than I can even imagine. Their story is an inspirational testament to the strength of the human spirit and our inate survival instinct.

    The land was beautiful and awesome to look at, but I wouldn't care to spend even one day stranded there, not even on a beautiful summer day like today.    Read more

  • Argentina and Italy 2023/2024

    Lost Penguins

    February 11, 2024, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 8 °C

    Our ship's captain announced this morning that weather conditions in the Falklands are rapidly deteriorating, with winds gusting to 50 knots and 7 meter high waves. Because there is no dock for cruise ships, passengers are tranferred ashore on forty-passenger tenders. For the safety of the passengers, crew, and ship, we will sail past the Falklands and their hundreds of thousands of penguins and will head straight to our next port of call, Puerto Madryn.

    On the positive side, there are still penguins, elephant seals, and sea lions to be found there, so we can't be too disappointed. The most disappointed passengers on board are the Argentines, who, since the 1982 war with Britain, can only access the island via cruise ship.

    The ship is already rocking side to side and bouncing up and down, so the next two days should be an interesting ride. I just hope the satellite transmission of tonight's game isn't interrupted, especially in the fourth quarter.    Read more

  • Argentina and Italy 2023/2024

    Punta Tombo

    Feb 13–20, 2024 in Argentina ⋅ 🌬 22 °C

    To make up for missing the Falkland Islands, we are overnighting in Puerto Madryn in Northern Patagonia. Unlike the southern part of the region, it's relatively flat here and very dry, almost desert like.

    The big attraction here is the wildlife. There are places where you can see sea lions, elephant seals, and PENGUINS!!! Lots and lots of 🐧 🐧 🐧.

    As soon as we got off the ship, we located a tour to transport us the 183 kilometers to Punta Tombo, a penguin reserve south of the city.

    There were a few hiccups along the way, but in the end, Brenda and I couldn't be happier with our experience.

    Ok, let's talk about penguins. A flightless bird that looks uncomfortable on land but swims like a fish. WTF? Who thought that up?

    We learned a lot about these adorable little creatures during our brief time amongst them. There are several varieties of penguins, and Punta Tombo is the breeding ground and summer home to the warmer-weather Magellanic variety. Eggs hatch in November, and the down-covered chicks must lose their feathers and grow large enough to migrate north by March. This is a relatively small penguin, weighing only 70 grams as a hatchling and up to four kilograms when fully grown.

    We discovered that these birds are very adept at digging. They burrow into the dry ground to make their nests. Everywhere we looked, in the open, under bushes and next to boulders, their holes were everywhere. Some were empty, and others had birds taking naps.

     Another strange thing is the way they tend to act like little statues. As we looked across the land on our way to the beach, hundreds of penguins, standing completely still, dotted the ground. Some even appeared to be dozing.

    Of course, we saw a lot of penguins as we walked the path to the beach, but nothing prepared us for the number of birds we saw in or near the surf. Thousands of penguins were either sunning themselves on the sand or frollicking in the waves. It was an incredible sight.

    Getting up close and personal with these strange but adorable creatures and watching them interact was an experience we'll never forget. One can't help laughing as they nonchalantly waddle along on their way to their destination. They appear to have no fear of humans, yet they are also entirely unaggressive.

    We humans could learn a lot from them.    Read more

  • Argentina and Italy 2023/2024

    More photos from yesterday

    February 14, 2024 in Argentina ⋅ 🌬 28 °C

    Aside from the thousands of penguins, yesterday we also saw a couple of other local critters and I thought I should give them a little exposure too.

    As we got close to the penguin rookery, we started seeing a llama-like animal off in the distance. They are called guanacos, a member of the camel family, and are close relatives to llama. It turns out there was an entire herd of them in the sanctuary, although we never got close to them. They are protected here and can't be hunted, farmed, or used for making wool with their fur.

    We also saw a little bird that looked like a partridge feeding on shrubs. It's coloring blended in so well with the surroundings it was almost impossible to see. It's called a tinamou and is native to Southern Chile and Argentina.

    Ok, since we don't have that many pictures of guanacos and tinamous, here's more penguin pics and another video.    Read more

  • Argentina and Italy 2023/2024

    Montevideo

    February 16, 2024 in Uruguay ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Today we visited Montevideo, Uruguay, our last port of call before heading back to Buenos Aires. Our stay there was only for seven and a half hours, so we had little time to waste. We decided to book a .free walking tour of La Ciudad Vieja (the old city) that started at 10:30 and lasted for two hours.

    Our guide was funny, spoke perfect English, and was a fountain of information about the city and the country. Here are a few of the tidbits of useless information we learned today:

    1516: Spain discovers the country.
    1527: Sebastian Cabot establishes the first European settlement, San Lázaro.
    1680: The Portuguese settle the area.
    1726: The Spanish found Montevideo as a military stronghold.
    1811: Uruguay gains independence from Spain.
    1822: Brazil annexes Uruguay.
    1825: Uruguay declares independance from Brazil and begins a three-year federation with Argentina.
    1828: Uruguay becomes an independent nation.

     - The first president, Fructuoso Rivera, passed an act of parliament that resulted in the extermination of the country's indigenous nomadic people, the Charrua
    - Urugauy is the only South American country with no indigenous population
    - There are more cows in Uruguay than people
    - The average Uruguayan consumes 99 kg of beef per annum (why aren't there defibrillaters on every corner?) They are the biggest per capita consumer in the world.
    - The average Uruguayan consumes 10 kg of Mate (pronounced matt-ay) per annum. That's about 29 million kg of Mate per year.
    - Mate is said to have potential health benefits including higher energy, reduced inflammation, lower blood sugar and cholesterol (maybe that's why there aren't defibs on every corner)

    Drinking Mate is a little ritualistic. A cup, also known as a mate or gourd, is filled to the brim with mate leaves, and a small amount of very hot water is poured in from a thermos. Once it has infused, the brew is drank through a metal straw with a filter on the end, known as a bombilla. Once all the liquid has been sucked up, the process is repeated over and over again.

    It's very common in both Uruguay and Argentina to see people walking down the street with a mate in one hand and a thermos of hot water tucked under the opposite arm.

    Of course, I've been curious to try it, but in the two months we've been in Buenos Aires, I've yet to find anywhere that serves the brew. One is obliged to purchase the full kit if you want to try it. However, it's also very common for people to share mate, even amongst complete strangers, as this is seen as a display of friendship. No thanks. But today was my lucky day as our tour guide pointed out a cafe that serves the popular local brew.

    For two hundred pesos, about $5.00 USD, we were served a gourd filled with mate leaves, a bombilla, and a large thermos of hot water. I wasn't too impressed with my first sip, which was very strong tasting, and a little bitter. However, the potency diminished with each replenishment of the cup, and, by the end, I was almost enjoying it. I'm not sure I'm going to run out and buy a mate kit to bring home to Vancouver, but I could change my mind over the next couple of weeks.

    And so, after many new and wonderful experiences, the consumption of far too much food and finding new friends, we arrive back in Buenos Aires tomorrow morning. We'll then have only seventeen more days in Argentina before we head off on the next leg of our journey.    Read more

  • Argentina and Italy 2023/2024

    Teatro Colon, Take Three

    February 21, 2024 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Right around Christmas, we learned that Teatro Colon would be putting on a few more shows during our remaining time in Buenos Aires. Unlike our two previous visits, when we saw a symphony, Handel's Messiah and a ballet, El Corsario, this one promised to be a little more light-hearted: Pixar In Concert.

    I won't say any more about how fantastic Teatro Colon is, I covered it pretty well in my two previous posts on the subject.

    On our other two visits, we had seats in the orchestra section, a dozen or so rows from the stage. This time, we opted for the cheap seats (everything else was sold out) in the third of six balconies. Despite the distance from the stage, the view was good, and the sound, as advertised, was perfect.

    When we bought the tickets, we expected to see snippets of Pixar films projected on the big screen and accompanied by the live orchestra. We got that and much more. There were visits from many of the Pixar characters, Buzz Lightyear, Woody, The Incredibles, Sully and Mike from Monsters Inc, and Princess Mérida from Brave. There was themed choreography and fantastic renditions of Pixar tunes interpreted by world-class, beautiful voices.

    Of course, all the songs performed today were the Spanish versions, which was fine for the most part. The only one I had trouble with, and simply because it's so well known, was Yo Soy Tu Amigo Fiel (I'm Your Faithful Friend). It took me the longest time to remember the English version of the chorus, sung by Randy Newman: "You've got a friend in me...".

    However, for the multitude of kids in the theater, there was nothing but magic in the air.

    What a wonderful gift those parents gave their children today by exposing them, in this awe-inspiring venue, to the wonders of a symphony orchestra, the gracefullness of perfectly executed choreography, and the beauty and range of emotion the human voice can express when it is used by virtuosos.

    I caught Brenda surreptitiously wiping her eyes dry a couple of times. And, she might have caught me once or twice, too.    Read more

  • Argentina and Italy 2023/2024

    The Colored Mountain

    February 24, 2024 in Argentina ⋅ 🌫 11 °C

    We flew into Salta and arrived at our accommodations a little after 10:00 Friday night. This was just an overnight stop that had us up early Saturday to pick up our rental car and hit the road northbound to the foothills of the Andes in Purmamarca.

    According to Google Maps, the 181-kilometer ride should have taken just under three hours, but the two lane twisty mountain roads, pokey tour busses, and overloaded semis all combined to add an hour to the trip.

    We did, however, make a brief pitstop in San Salvador de Jujuy (pronounced Hoo-hooey here) and noticed that we were already entering a very different world. Unlike the predominantly European Influence in Buenos Aires, the people here carry far more indigenous traits. The food is different, with quinoa and llama appearing on most menus. And there are gigantic Saguaru cacti, straight out of a Roadrunner cartoon, everywhere!

    As we approached Purmamarca, the lush green mountains gradually began losing vegetation and showing signs of erosion, exposing their underlying composition, some reddish, some grey, some greenish and some brown. Suddenly, as we rounded a corner, we caught our first glimpse of the colored mountain and its seven layers of different-colored sedimentary deposits.

    Formed underwater between one million and 600 million years ago, the layers run all the way from Salta, through Bolivia, and into Peru, and are the product of a complex geological history including marine sediments, lake and river movements elevated with the movement of the tectonic plates.

    All I can say is Wow!

    .    Read more

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