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Respublika Buryatiya

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    • TravelerRussia
      211
      Day 13

      Exploring Gorya Chinsk

      April 18, 2018 in Russia ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      We had breakfast provided at the guest house this morning after which we headed out for a walk round the town to see if there were any information places open. Seemed like most of them were actually mini marts. There were about 4 different ones around the small square all selling basically the same thing!

      We were trying to find the hot springs that were in the area - we were unsure if it was like a resort or natural ones. Eli was looking it up on his phone and it appears it was behind the church. We wandered round and found a pond with a creek and there was steam coming off it. There was a little bridge with a shelter over the middle with a bucket and tap set up and hot water running into it from the creek.

      We kept wandering and found a playground for Heidi and behind a forest with a fair amount of snow on the ground still. We had to make a snowman ⛄️ which Heidi enjoyed smashing down as we walked off! Snow just brings out the inner child in one!

      We made our way back to the guest house from here to go for a drive to some of the other towns nearby.      Read more

    • TravelerRussia
      34
      Day 13

      Adventures at Lake Baikal

      April 18, 2018 in Russia ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      We jumped into the car and drove back down the road we had come up yesterday to visit the town Turka. We found a good spot to get some pictures of the lake and ended up spending some time here clambering over the snow, indulging in a snow fight, breaking off icicles and testing the ice. We had wanted to walk across the lake to another big snow drift further out but after testing the ice we didn’t think it would be very safe, much to our chagrin. Mike and Kyria ventured out a bit further Heidi had a great time slipping and sliding in the snow.

      We all felt like a hot drink to warm us up but they don’t seem to have cafes round here - just canteens so we continued our drive down to Gremyachinsk. We wanted to check out a resort located here as we were keen to experience the hot springs. The resort was not as impressive as expected - I guess having done the hot springs in NZ I’m a bit spoilt but the rooms weren’t amazing, except for the extra fancy one which was $400 per night and you had to pay extra for the facilities. We like where we’re staying so we thought we might just come back to the resort during the day and use the banya (hot baths / cod baths / sauna etc).

      We couldn’t find much for lunch so we ended up stopping at a canteen and having lunch there. Then we drove round a bit, exploring a few back roads and stopping to take photos of the scenery. At one point Kyria was hanging out the car window getting photos! We were hopeful of seeing a bear in the forests but no Iuck! Perhaps they’re still hibernating!!

      We then drove back the the guest house for Heidi to have her nap.      Read more

    • TravelerRussia
      1
      Day 11

      Meal with Old Believers

      April 16, 2018 in Russia ⋅ ⛅ 2 °C

      We drove on a bit further and stopped at a house where we were going to have a meal with their traditional food.

      A few ladies came out the front to greet us dressed in their traditional garb. They didn’t speak English so our guide translated for us. The main lady showed us round a house they had set up with furniture etc. They were very small
      houses - I guess they were easier to keep warm.

      Apparently the women would spend half of their fertility stage pregnant. They had a pretty hard life, as I guess most women did back then without all the modern conveniences of today. I’m so soft - I couldn’t imagine doing half the things they had to. The irons were so heavy i think I’d burn holes in the clothes, churning the milk to make butter for 3 hours, cooking with massive pots you had to pull out with a big hook, washing by hand with a scrub board...

      Then we went to the room where they had a meal prepared. We shaped some pancakes with dough they had already prepared and they cooked them for us after which we sat down to eat. They had all sorts of different breads at the table - sweet and savoury with sesame seed dip, sour cream etc. We had a yummy soup to start called stchi or something, followed by meat with mashed potato and a sweet porridge which tasted like rice pudding to me - which the others strongly disagreed with. But I hold my opinion. I love rice pudding!

      They also had some moonshine which had to be drunk at various intervals throughout the meal in one shot. I abstained of course - thankful I had the excuse that I was pregnant 😂 supposedly it was clean in that you wouldn’t have a hangover later.

      There was another group that joined us for the meal as well and sat at a separate table. There was so much food we were all quite stuffed by the end!      Read more

    • TravelerRussia
      1
      Day 11

      Marriage Ceremony

      April 16, 2018 in Russia ⋅ ⛅ 1 °C

      After the meal the ladies did some singing and dancing accompanied by a long suffering fellow playing the accordian. Occasionally they would grab someone from the table to dance with them. It was interesting - I can’t say the singing was enjoyable - they have such penetrating voices!!

      Then they wanted to show us how they prepare a bride and groom for a wedding. Kyria was the lucky one selected from our table with a guy from the other table. It was quite hilarious as all the ladies fussed round like hens to dress her in the traditional clothes which took some time. Her face expressions told it all - I don’t think she enjoyed our merriment at her expense 😂 they sung as they dressed her (over her clothes of course). Apparently the Russians like their women well covered and as Kyria is so skinny they had to bulk her up to trick the groom to be!

      Then they dressed the groom and what followed was a period of haggling between the bride’s party and the groom’s. It seemed the bride’s good points were all about how hard she could work and how many children she would have and the groom was all about the looks! Finally it was agreed and money was paid after which there was more singing and dancing. The bride and groom had to kiss behind an apron and then dance together. It was all fun and both groups were getting into it.

      Even after the ceremony was over they sung a couple more songs, after which they took a couple of group photos and then we headed off after profuse thanks. It had been a fun experience and we all enjoyed it - even Kyria!

      The driver and guide dropped us back to the apartment. We had found out that our guide was the director of the Ulna-Ude museum we had walked past yesterday and we agreed to meet again for coffee and a chat before we headed off to Lake Baikal.      Read more

    • Bine und Manu auf ReisenFollow the sun
      23
      Day 59

      Ulan-Ude

      September 2, 2015 in Russia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      Unsere letzten Tage in Russland sind nun fast vorbei. Zum Schluss machten wir noch ein echtes Schnäppchen mit nem Zimmer nur für uns mit eigenem Bad, wow.

      Wir nutzten die letzten Tage zum Entspannen, uns in Ruhe die Stadt anzuschauen, lecker Essen zu gehen und die Russland Reise nochmal Revue passieren zu lassen.

      Russland ist das mit Abstand flächengrößte Land der Erde, es umfasst in etwa 1/7 der Weltlandfläche (17'075'400 Quadratkilometer). Deshalb gibt es hier auch die längste Eisenbahnstrecke der Welt (ohne Zwischenstopp fährt man 152Stunden und 27Minuten von Moskau bis Wladiwostok), wir konnten ein ungefähres Gefühl für die unglaublichen Weiten bekommen. 10% des russischen Staatseinkommens stammen vom Umsatz des Wodkas, dessen Name ursprünglich "Wässerchen" bedeutet (woda "Wasser").

      Die 30 Tage gingen echt schnell rum, gefühlt saßen wir die meiste Zeit im Zug :-) Soo, was haben wir in Russland gelernt? Erstmal ein paar Wörter russisch, zum Beispiel: Ich spreche kein Russisch [ya ni gawarjú pa-rúßki], danke [spasiba] und ein paar mehr. Viele Gesichter in Russland wirken auf den ersten Blick sehr ernst und verschlossen, aber hinter dieser Fassade stecken nach unseren Erfahrungen sehr freundliche, aufgeschlossene, hilfsbereite und herzliche Menschen, die immer dazu bereit sind etwas von sich zu geben. Gastfreundschaft wird hier gelebt und groß geschrieben. Wir hatten hier viele gute Begegnungen, die uns in Erinnerung bleiben werden.

      Nun geht es bald schon weiter mit der transmongolischen Eisenbahn Richtung Mongolei, einem Land voller mystischer Landschaften, unberührter Natur und einer Kultur zwischen Tradition und Moderne.      Read more

      See translation
    • TravelerRussia
      2
      21
      Day 11

      Strolling Around Ulan-Ude

      April 16, 2018 in Russia ⋅ 🌙 2 °C

      We didn’t wake up until about 10am this morning which was rather shocking but I guess that’s jet lag for you. We had breakfast at the English pub again which was yummy and then went for a walk to see the main sights of Ulan-Ude. There was a main path to follow around the centre of town starting at a massive statute of Lenin’s head. They have statutes of Lenin everywhere! This one looked rather ominous at night time when it was lit up by lights.

      We had a slight detour to an ice cream shop - Baskin and Robbins or something. Apparently an American brand but I’d never heard of it. Then we continued our stroll. Heidi was entertained by rocks, sticks and steps along the way - who needs toys! It was a sunny day although the wind had quite a bite to it.

      We had a tour booked out to the Old Believer’s village this afternoon and we were being picked up outside our apartment at 3pm so we headed back home to get ready.      Read more

    • TravelerRussia
      Day 10

      Arrival in Ulan-Ude

      April 15, 2018 in Russia ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

      We had a bit of drama going from Moscow to Ulan-Ude as they picked up on Kyria’s hand luggage as we were about to board. Even though it had been ‘let through’ on the previous flight with the same air line they weren’t going to this time. So they had to pay extra. We held up the buses in the process! At least she only had to pay for it one leg.

      Oh and I nearly lost my phone and iPad without knowing it. A guy had knocked my tray off the security bag line and stuff had all fallen out. I had already gone through and was waiting on the other side. Eli was behind the guy and was getting annoyed at him cos he wasn’t going to pick the stuff up and when he did he just dumped it straight on the line instead of putting it back in the tray. So I didn’t realise that my phone and iPad hadn’t come through. A guy came up to me once we were seated at the gate with them in his hand. He wanted me to log in to prove they were mine. Having not missed them, I was bewildered that he had them and didn’t even thank him! I still don’t know how he knew they were mine or who he was!

      Again we were all seated separately but Heidi and I had a row to ourselves this time (why they didn’t seat Eli there I don’t know) and Eli had armed me with some healthier snacks for her so it was a smoother flight. She slept for most of the flight. It was about 5 1/2 hours and we crossed a few time zones so when we arrived in Ulan-Ude it was about 7.30 in the morning. We are now about 2 hours behind home.

      None of us had slept much on the flight except for Kyria and Heidi so we felt pretty zonked.

      The airport was relatively small and you had to crowd into a little room to get your luggage off the conveyor. Then they wanted us to show our baggage tickets to prove it was ours - who does that!! I think I was the only one to still have mine!

      We found a taxi to take us to our apartment and he even rang the guy to let him know we had arrrived. I hadn’t dressed for cold cos it was so hot in the airports and planes. There was quite a cold breeze happening and we had to wait for about 1/2 hour the guy to turn up. The boys had gone for a walk to see if they could find somewhere else to stay. The guy turned up with a friend in another car. Apparently we had booked too late and the apartment wasnt ready (Eli had only booked I the other night) so they were going to drive us to another apartment! They were even happy to drive us to a hotel if we wanted.

      So we jumped in their cars and drove to another place which also wasn’t ready so they went to another one. They were really friendly and helpful and went above and beyond what they needed to do. The helped Eli organise a hire car for the week, went and organised a sim for his phone and said for him to call them if we needed anything, even though we were staying in the apartment for a couple of days. Really really hospitable.

      The rest of us had flaked out at the apartment and had a nap for an hour or two while the other stuff was being organised! It always hits so much harder flying the other way.

      At around 2-3pm we went for a bit of a walk, found a canteen nearby and had a meal as we were so hungry by this point. The food was ok - I don’t think we will go there again though. Then we went for a bit of a walk around the square before heading back after getting a few supplies from a mini-mart near us.

      Dinner was at an English Pub in the main square. After a good meal, we spent the evening at the apartment. We were subjected to a couple of hours of Heidi crying. I think her body clock was out and she’s also coming down with a cold 🙄 somehow Michael managed to sleep through her wailing - I’m still nonplussed!      Read more

    • Going home
      Day 106

      Crossing the Russian-Mongolian border

      June 24, 2019 in Russia ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

      After three weeks in Russia, it's time to move on. We're about to cross the border to Mongolia. Feelings are mixed. Part of us is actually sad to leave Russia already. We just got used to it. We sort of knew our way around. We managed to communicate at least a bit. And now, we start again.
      New customs, new faces, new language. Are we ready? I don't know. My head manages to keep "sain baa no" (hello in Mongolian) but that's about it. Hopefully it'll change over the course of the next weeks.

      Micha and Sonja, two overland travellers from Ulm that we met yesterday, had given us some advice on routes, what to see where and even gave us a map (paper maps are still the best!). And we're also planning to meet a welll-travelled Mongolian guy in Ulan Baatar that Tom has been in touch with, so at least on that front we feel a tiny bit prepared.

      And so we start to drive. When we get to the border at 9:55am, the gate looks shut. There are several trucks and buses with tourists waiting. A few cars are parked not far away. There still is a path all the way to the front, so we take it. And miraculously the gate opens. On the Russian side of the border, we park the car in front of customs control. An officer in a good mood and decent English explains the next steps: first Tom needs to go into the building with the car documents while I wait in the car. The female officer doesn't like the look of our registration much (it's simply a print out without any official stamps or signatures), but Tom's charme and the fact that it IS the official document, get us through. Then the first officer checks the car along with another female one. We open the back and a few drawers, empty the medicine bag (my homoeopathy is a bit laughed about) and all goes well. We pass, get a second stamp on our temporary import document (TID), exchange good-byes in Russian, English and German and head on to the passport control (still on the Russian side). All good here as well and at 10:37am we officially cross the border.

      First act on the Mongolian side is driving the car through a desinfection bath. Right after, an officer gives us entry cards, while another lady wants to have money for the desinfection. It's all a bit confusing. In the end, Tom takes the car documents to the booth at the entry, I pay the lady and we drive further. Next stop customs control. The officer here simply motions. I'm supposed to go and have my passport checked, while Tom shows him the car. Again, everything runs smoothly. Tom even finds our missing camera adaptors in the medicine bag! Thorough checking does have its advantages after all.
      I get my stamp within minutes and the car control is almost done when I exit the building. Tom goes in as well (the hall looks a bit like the ones at airports, there even is a duty free shop) and once through, we're both wondering what's next. Nobody had told us anything and noone is showing interest. So we drive a little further ahead to reassemble everything, but then a woman comes after us and Tom needs to follow with the car documents again. We get a few more stamps and papers and then that's it. Done!
      At 11:37am we're in Mongolia. We buy a third party insurance for about €35 right before we exit the final gate. Outside it's hot. It's a bit weird with empty stalls and a few shady looking shops on either side.
      We don't find a simcard as no one speaks English. I cuddle the street dogs. We're ready to drive on...      Read more

    • TravelerAustralia to Europe
      1
      Day 71

      The landscape changes

      July 5, 2019 in Russia ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

      After nine days of travelling through forrests, finally the landscape opens. Wonderful views, glorious landscapes.
      Sometimes, to get some money, to stock up on groceries, I need to leave the road and venture into the next township. Once leaving the "highway" which in itself is a bumpy affair, the road worsens considerably. You have to pass huge potholes, drive across wonky bridges, once I had to travel through an airfield, not being used for at least 50years, hardly being able to drive from one concrete patch to the next. I dread those town visits, and feel so sorry for the people living in these extremely poor conditions in a country that praises itself as a world power.Read more

    • TravelerTranssibirische Eisenbahn
      Day 28

      Baikal - Barguzin, der versteckte Schatz

      August 3, 2017 in Russia ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      Eigentlich wären wir in Ulan-Ude am liebsten den ganzen Tag im Bett liegen geblieben und hätten Serien geschaut...wir hatten den Reiseblues. Wir suchten sogar nach günstigen Flügen an irgendeinen Strand, statt uns mit der Mongolei zu beschäftigen. Und so richtig gross Lust nach Ust-Barguzin zu fahren hatten wir eigentlich auch nicht. Aber wir hatten schon alles mit Alex per Email ausgemacht und sollten am Nachmittag abgeholt werden. Und wie immer in solchen Momenten, kam alles anders.

      Abgeholt wurden wir von Sohn und Tochter, die gerade Urlaub zu Hause machen, im Land Cruiser. Mit Abstand das bequemste Gefährt bisher. Die Fahrt ging entlang dem Baikalsee, während die Sonne langsam im See unterging. Wir kamen zwar spät, aber es gab noch was zu essen und wir wurden in ein Zimmer in ihrem Haus einquartiert. So richtig abgesprochen, was am nächsten Tag passieren soll hatten wir nicht, aber wir vertrauten darauf, dass es gut kommt. Im Endeffekt fuhren wir mit einer Familie (russische Eltern und Tochter, französischer Schwiegersohn und ihre Reiseleiterin) ins Barguzin Tal und gingen Raften, oder eher Boot fahren. Das Mittagessen bei einer lokalen Familie war ein Traum! Alles frisch aus ihrem Garten (ja, in Sibirien wächst echt viel). Oder vom Bauern nebenan (Doppelcreme mit selber gemachter Rabharbermarmelade). Abends sprangen wir noch in den Baikalsee. Auf meine Frage zurück bei Beketovs, ob wir duschen könnten, meinte sie ja, in der Banja. So mixten wir in der Sauna warmes und kaltes Wasser, und der Schöpflöffel fungierte als Duschbrause. Funktioniert auch und schön warm war es auch noch ;-)

      Da wir am nächsten Tag Mittags wieder nach Ulan-Ude mussten (unser Visum läuft ab), machte der Sohn mit uns Morgens noch eine Tour zu den Heissen Quellen auf einer Halbinsel. Das Nationalparkgebiet war traumhaft. Morgens um 8 mit dem Boot über den See zu brausen, vorbei an den bewaldeten Hügeln und Bergen, liess unseren Reiseblues dahinschwinden. Genau für diese Momente reisen wir. So fanden wir uns auch wenig später in 35C und 45C warmem Wasser mit Blick auf den See.

      Auf dem Heimweg wurde eine Kiste frischer Omul mitgenommen, den es dann auch Mittags zum Essen gab. Zum Essen hier fällt uns noch ein: frisch, Dill, Zwiebeln, Knoblauch, Omul, Fleisch, Buchweizen, Pancakes.

      So verlassen wir nun den Baikalsee schweren Herzens Richtung Mongolei. Eine wunderschöne Gegend, mit ganz vielen tollen Begegnungen. Wir haben sie gefunden, die Russen, die Lächeln ;-)      Read more

      See translation

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Respublika Buryatiya, Buriatia, République de Bouriatie, Бурятия, Burjatien

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