South Korea
Bonguidong

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125 travelers at this place
  • Day203

    Randonnée à Bukhansan

    September 29, 2019 in South Korea ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Une belle Coréenne expansive qui n'avait jamais randonné mais s'en sortait bien - tout en poussant régulièrement de petits cris et en se jetant sur les pierres, jouant la pin-up épuisée ! Un grand Coréen taiseux qui à l'inverse avait marché jusqu'à Saint Jacques de Compostelle, un Coréen américanisé, photojournaliste hyperactif, passionant mais avec tellement d'idées à la minute qu'il en perdait le fil, une Francaise designer textile, amoureuse du Japon et qui fait le tour du monde en Land Rover, une Indienne qui n'avait pas trop la forme et a du rebrousser chemin, un petit chien affectueux mais interdit, qu'on a donc du cacher dans le sac à dos...Telle était l'équipe de Bukhansan. Randonnée pas si évidente et qui a demandé un peu de varappe sur les rochers. Couronnée en tous cas par une vue panoramique sur Séoul, sous un soleil radieux, puis par la visite d'un temple en redescendant. En dépit de la foule de marcheurs qui a eu la meme idee que nous en ce samedi, j'ai adoré !Read more

    Marie Dessaillen

    Elle est belle cette photo! Tu as l'air vraiment heureuse ❤️

    10/30/19Reply
    Marie Dessaillen

    Belle couleur de tuiles! 🥰

    10/30/19Reply
     
  • Day202

    Touristes jusqu'au bout des ongles

    September 28, 2019 in South Korea ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Et nous avons osé le "hanbok", tenue traditionnelle coréenne, pour visiter un palais en plein centre de Seoul. Il faut dire que la politique du site encourage ce type de débordements (l'entrée est gratuite si vous êtes deguisé ! ça revient donc presque au même prix de débarquer en costume) et que Jo-Ana, mon hôte americaine en Warmshower, adore se déguiser. Chez elle, où elle accueille aussi bien des voyageurs à velo que des visiteurs en Airbnb, un portant entier est dédié à diverses tenues, à disposition des invités ! Il n'en fallait pas plus pour me convaincre.
    Avant d'arriver dans le palais, il a fallu marcher une dizaine de minutes dans la ville avec notre accoutrement bizarre... Il faut assumer !! Mais dès les enceintes franchies, nous avons pu voir que nous n'étions pas les seules. Certaines étaient en mode princesse, avec froufrous et paillettes, d'autres en habits plus sobres (mais tout de même etranges), il y avait même une fausse armée pratiquant en rythme des arts martiaux...

    La tenue traditionnelle coréenne consiste en un court et large veston et une jupe/salopette volumineuse, à enfiler par dessus un jupon lui même bouffant. Pas franchement sexy ni seyante, elle devait être modeste et discrète, en cachant les formes des femmes (ainsi ne voyait-on plus la différence entre Jo-Anna, enceinte de 6 mois, et Jennifer et moi). Les hommes enroulaient quant à eux leurs longs cheveux dans un chapeau/filet noir. Le port de ce chapeau qui signifiait l'entrée dans l'âge adulte faisait l'objet de rites de passage. Les couleurs des habits étaient simples, dans les tons pastels, et unies. Seules les classes aisées avaient le droit à de la déco supplémentaire : broche à cheveux pour les femmes, chapeau pour les hommes, broderies et insignes... Nos tenues étaient ainsi plus kitsch et colorées que les vrais habits traditionnels.
    Malgré le defi des escaliers avec jupe longue et la chaleur sous ces épaisseurs, l'expérience etait marrante !
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    Mathilde RMX

    À fond dans le thème ! Tu es parfaite ! 😂

    10/28/19Reply

    Magnifique. Tu peux trouver un rôle dans un manga si tu vas jusqu'au Japon habillée comme ça. N'oublie pas tes pinces à vélo. PIERRE

    10/29/19Reply
    Aline en roue libre

    Je sens que si tu avais été dans le coin, tu aurais aussi fait partie de l'aventure !! 😊

    10/29/19Reply
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  • Day3

    Day 2: Gyeongbokgung

    November 9, 2019 in South Korea ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    Alice's mom took the day to lunch and chat with her friends from the bank. As 20-somethings they all worked in the same downtown Seoul bank and have been friends ever since. Alice and I took off on the metro to visit the largest of the Joseon palaces in Seoul, Gyeongbokgung.

    The Joseon Dynasty ruled from 1392 to 1897. It was the longest Confucian dynasty and the last Korean dynasty. Gyeongbokgung is the largest of the five grand palaces of Seoul and was built in 1395.

    Gyeongbokgung consists of a large palace comprised of many buildings spread over a wide area and sits directly next to the National Palace Museum of Korea and the National Folk Museum of Korea. The palace was full of hanbok clad tourists. Interestingly, the face of tourists in Korea has changed. These were not locals, and most of them were not Korean. The change in tourist reflects the growing affluence that is spreading across Asia and the diversity in culture and religions represented. You could tell the Koreans apart: they weren't wearing traditional, Korean dress.

    Beyond the main gate we heard the megaphoned voice of a woman growing more and more hoarse as the hours passed. It was a protest, but we couldn't quite figure out what the protest was against. And then we were told...it was against Trump. Trump had declared that the US was helping South Korea by occupying a military base in Seoul. The South Koreans needed to pay much more now for the pleasure of housing our troops. I think I agree with the hoarse lady. We saw some marching, but stayed pretty clear of the crowds of people. Apparently, Saturdays are for shopping and protesting in the city center.

    We made it a day by visiting both museums and every single one of the shops around the palace grounds. I have taught Alice the joy of travel souvenirs. Packing tiny trinkets in my suitcase and making it home with all of them is my gift. We are all superheroes in our own way.

    As we were trying to figure out the best way home around protests and crowded subways, an American looked up at me and said, "Are you going to the Lantern Festival?" Lantern Festival? Alice quickly texted locals who responded, "Lantern Festival? Isn't that in the summer?" Well, there IS a Lantern Festival...in November...thank you random American for letting us know. It will take us a few days to wind up there though.

    Next up: Bad noodles, Do this museum LAST, and dinner with the cousins.
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  • Day6

    Seoul

    October 11, 2019 in South Korea ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    We arrived in Seoul after a long journey with Emirates via Dubai airport. After getting through passport control and customs, we headed to get the train into the city. I had read that the best way to get around is with a T money card which is like the Leap Card at home. Apparently it can even be used to pay for foods in convenience stores too. We had to buy the cards from a vending machine (W4,000/€3) first before topping it up at the ticket machine. This was the first of many vending machine experiences.

    We got the AREX All-Stop Train into Seoul. Thankfully each stop was also announced in English, which was a relief as we hadn’t managed the language just yet! The main thing that struck me though, was that at every stop the announcement was preceded with a tune that sounded like it came from a cartoon. Much better than the mundane ‘ding dong’ that we have at home. Iarnrod Eireann could maybe learn something from this to make our journeys at little more exciting!

    We arrived at our Airbnb apartment on the 31st floor above Mapo metro station, exhausted and ready for some rest before the next few days of exploring.
    Next morning after breakfast, we headed to the Namsen mountain for views over looking Seoul. We got the cable car (W7,000/€5.30) to the top before going up the N Seoul Tower (W11,000/€8.30) for a panoramic view of the city. We rehydrated with a drink at the top before we decided to walk back down the mountain. First though was a pitstop to the bathroom...I walked into the cubicle and the outside wall was just full length clear glass window with view across the city. Felt a bit weird, hoping nobody had 20:20 vision from the bottom!

    We walked down the mountain through the wooded area and when we reached the bottom, there was an exhibition of small garden displays. We then ventured to Namdaemun market, which is a large area of streets full of stalls and shops selling everything from clothes, accessories, shoes to carpets, electronics and food. It was all a little overwhelming, so when we had seen what wanted to see, we decided to walk the Seoullo 7017 walkway to get a break from the mayhem. It was similar to the Skyline Walkway in New York but on a smaller scale. It was built on an old motorway overpass which now has a kilometre length of gardens, terraces and exhibitions.

    The final stop of the day was to Seoul Plaza where we went into the City Hall and Metropolitan Library. Two contrasting buildings situated beside each other.

    The next day was a day for the main temples in Seoul. Firstly we went to the biggest of them all, Gyeongbokgung Palace (W3,000/€2.20), where we saw the changing of the guard just as we entered the palace. We then did the walking tour, where we learned it was built in 1395 but was destroyed in the 1590s when Korea was under Japanese rule. Remarkably the ruling king at the time of being built requested that everything was documented, so they have now been able to restore 95% of it to its original state. On our way to Changdeokgung Palace(W3,000/€2.20), we made our way through Bukchon Hanok Village, which is a traditional Korean village with lots of little alleys and traditional houses. We then visited the palace used as the royal family resistance. The third palace of the day, and probably my favourite, was Jogyesa temple, which is the head temple in Korean Buddhism. It holds three gold Buddha inside. When we got there, there was a chrysanthemum exhibition going on which made it even more beautiful.

    After seeing enough temples to get us through the trip, we had a nice walk along Cheonggyecheon stream. The 11km long walk passes under 22 bridges and has various areas of stone and tiled displays. We ended our day at the Dongdaemun Design Plaza to see the lights along modern infrastructure.

    For our last day in Seoul we decided to get out of the city and get in some nature at Bukhansan National Park. After an hour journey on the metro and bus, we arrived at the information center and grabbed ourselves a map. We decided to hike up to the top of Baegundae Peak (836m) through the Bukhansanseong trail. It was a difficult hike but when we got to the top, we realized we hadn’t reached the hardest part yet. The last 0.4km consisted of climbing up steep granite rock using ropes and ladders that had been installed. I’m not great with heights and at one point I didn’t think I’d make it to the top, but I hadn’t spent that last two and a half hours getting there not to make it. I’m so glad I pushed myself because the views at the top were incredible! Amazing views across the National Park, Seoul city and suburbs and the Han river. We sat and had some well deserved snacks, taking in the views, before we headed back down the mountain.

    When we got back to the city that evening we finished our time in Seoul at a Korean BBQ called ‘No Pork, No Life’. We ordered pork neck and belly and Iberian pork which was cooked on a charcoal fire in the centre of the table. It was served with various small dishes of vegetables, rice and dips. It was delicious and ended a great time in Seoul.
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  • Day9

    Kpop überall

    October 11, 2019 in South Korea ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Aber auch zurück in Seoul gibt es weiterhin sehr viel aufregendes und neues zu sehen. So eben die K Star Road in Gangnam. Eher durch Zufall entdeckt und dennoch gefreut, da sie auch auf unserem Plan stand. Hier haben vor einiger Zeit einige Bands, die schon etwas länger im Geschäft sind, einen Bären zu ihrer Band aufgestellt bekommen. Natürlich alle mit einem anderen Design.Read more

  • Day5

    Dinsdag 12 november 2019

    November 12, 2019 in South Korea ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Dag 5 van de vakantie en de eerste dag dat we de wekker niet zetten. Niet dat we lang uitslapen maar we doen het wat rustiger aan, niet lopend op straat ontbijten maar lekker een belegd croissantje en een koffie bij café Tours les jours. Bas is naar de universiteit en bereidt zich voor op zijn presentatie die hij vanmiddag om 14:00 uur heeft.
    Wij lopen naar een groot winkelcentrum waar veel kleding te koop is en we eerder langs zijn gelopen. Dit blijkt een confectiecentrum te zijn, waarschijnlijk niet bedoeld voor verkoop aan particulieren en geopend van 00:00 uur tot 12:00 uur. Naast dit centrum zijn er ook ‘gewone’ winkels, nou ja gewoon: meerdere winkels naast elkaar waar ze alleen maar hoeden en petten verkopen, of ritsen, of knopen, of sokken, of BH’s, of ondergoed, et cetera. Het doet ons erg denken aan Hanoï, waar Esther en Bernd morgen hun vakantie voortzetten. Ook omdat het in deze wijk erg bedrijvig is op straat en er eettentjes zijn waar de kok buiten staat te koken of te BBQ-en.
    We drinken wat in een koffieshop, hier zitten een aantal klanten te slapen. Waarschijnlijk hebben zij afgelopen nacht gewerkt in het confectiecentrum.
    Na de versnapering gaan we met de metro richting de wijk waar Bas woont en waar de universiteit is. Een leuke buurt met veel winkels en horeca en overvloed aan studenten natuurlijk. We eten bij een Japans restaurant en wachten hier op Bas: zijn presentatie is goed gegaan.
    Na de late lunch nog even langs Bas zijn kamer en door naar de universiteit. Natuurlijk hebben we al foto’s gezien maar in het echt is het toch indrukwekkender. Wat een gebouwen en wat is het overal weer netjes.
    Na de rondleiding van Bas terug naar het appartement om nog even een uurtje te rusten voordat we naar het lantaarn festival gaan. Dit vindt ieder jaar in november plaats dus we vallen met onze neus in de boter. Het ziet er zeer kleurrijk en indrukwekkend uit. Hierna weer lekker gegeten, terug naar het appartement voor onze laatste nacht met z’n allen in Seoul.
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  • Day5

    Day 4: Part 2, Noodles and Lanterns

    November 11, 2019 in South Korea ⋅ 🌙 -5 °C

    Alice’s mom was excited about our day; not because we were going up Namsan, but because we were heading Downton to very near the place of her first employment at the main bank in central Seoul. We were walking through the crowds when Mrs. Ha grabbed my arm and excitedly said, “There! There is where we went to the movies!” This is why I had tagged along on this trip. I could see the palaces of the Joseon Dynasty all on my own. I could find all of the main museums and see them too. I might even find a few restaurants that were typical of Seoul. But I never would have known that in the 1960s that beautiful building was where friends gathered to watch movies. I never would have known that the famous noodle place we were about to go to, the noodle place in the Michelin guide and in all the tourist blogs, was a little hole in the wall noodle shop opened in the same years that those same friends started working in downtown Seoul.

    We ate lunch at Myeongdong Kyoja, the noodle place that Mrs. Ha and her friends ate all those years ago. It opened in 1966 and offers hand cut noodle soup and dumplings. That’s it, and that’s what we ate. It’s cheap, the flavors are amazing, and the kimchi is the best. Like really the best. I dream of that kimchi. I now eat kimchi and think, “ugh, I miss Myeongdong Kyoja’s kimchi.” It’s the kimchi that now inspires me to not bother trying to buy good kimchi…I just make my own. You know it’s a good restaurant in Seoul if it has: 1) trash cans by the table (to discard the tiny napkins common in restaurants), 2) metal chopsticks (I joke that Koreans are German-Asians…they take sanitation seriously…bless them!), and 3) a lady with a bucket of kimchi to refill your kimchi bowl as needed. Myeongdong Kyoja had them all. Alice’s mom wanted to eat every meal here. She was not misguided.

    After lunch, we went to Namsan (see Day 4, pt 1), and then we headed down to Namdaemun Market, the south gate market. The south gate (Sungnyemun Gate) was constructed from 1395 to 1398 and reconstructed many times throughout the centuries, including in 2009 when it was burned down. The south gate is one of three original gates leading into Seoul, only two of which survive. According to the Seoul guide, Sungnyemun Gate was used “to greet important foreign visitors, allow people into and out of the city, and to keep out invaders and dangerous animals such as Siberian Tigers.” Tigers? Yipes. Well, those clearly were kept out by the growing population into the 20th century, and in 1907 the wall around Seoul was taken down and only the gates remained. South gate was damaged during the Korean War and restored afterwards earning it the designation of the first National Treasure of Korea in 1962.

    Namdaemun Market dates from 1961, though people have been selling goods in this area since 1414. It is the largest traditional Korean market, and so I thought…THIS is where I find chopsticks to take home. In theory that was great. In reality, we all know I’m a big snob, so I ended up buying a set at Shinsegae, the fancy department store next to our hotel. I mean, it’s not just me. Alice had to go through dozens of sets to approve the size of spoon that accompanied the chopstick. In classic, Korea 2019 style…I only bought a set of 8 and live in constant regret of my under-purchase…especially as I have been using them often since my return home. Oh, yeah, and we eat every single dingle meal at home thanks to Covid-19 and the resulting stay at home orders. I could use some extra utensils.

    After leaving the market, we finally made it to the lantern festival! That was the lantern festival of which apparently no actual Korean had heard. We learned about from an American tourist. Every Korean we asked would look at us and say something similar to, “Lantern festival? Isn’t that in the summer?” No. Apparently there is a light festival south of Seoul in the summer, and there is a famous lantern festival in Jeju on the southern coast of Korea in October, but this is the Seoul Lantern festival. It takes place every year for the first two weeks of November in Cheonggyecheon…we planned this perfectly. The Seoul Lantern festival dates from 2012 when it was supposed to be a one time festival to celebrate “Visit Korea year 2010 to 2012” (I bet they are very happy that they didn’t choose 2020…oy.) The city decided to make it an every year event and boy oh boy was Jeju mad…apparently…though again, nobody in Seoul knew anything about this festival anyway, but I digress…

    The Seoul Lantern Festival takes place in Cheonggyecheon, the Stream, in central Seoul. The stream was a drainage system through central Seoul to take water to the Han River and out to sea. In the early days of the Joseon dynasty it was used for laundry and a water source. Under Japanese rule of Korea it was neglected, though they never were able to cover it over as they had planned. After the war, the stream became covered with temporary dwellings from people streaming into Seoul to find work and some economic stability. The structures were shabby, there was trash everywhere, and the stream became essentially an open sewer. Slowly, from 1958 until 1976, the stream was covered with concrete and an elevated highway was built on top.

    In 2005 the stream was uncovered, the elevated highway torn down, and now the stream is a vibrant and attractive landscape in the heart of Seoul. We strolled along the stream, and enjoyed the 2019 Seoul Lantern Festival. The theme this year was “Folktales.” There were representations from Korean, Chinese, and western folktales. Disney even made an appearance at this year’s festival.

    Next up: We do need some education: A visit to the first women’s university and to Mrs. Ha’s alma mater.
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  • Day29

    Changdeokgung Palace & Jongmyo Shrine

    September 25, 2019 in South Korea ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    So after a little sight-seeing, it was time to begin our WHS journey across Korea in earnest. First up today was Changdeokgung Palace, located in the centre of Seoul. This was a medium-sized palace built by the Joseon dynasty, who ruled Korea from 1392 - 1910. They actually had two palaces right in the middle of the city, this and another with a huge name; that one was more formalised in style while this was a bit off-kilter, buildings flowing with the terrain and so on.

    So we grabbed a quick breakfast and headed over since it was just a short five minute walk from the hostel. The last Wednesday of every month is Culture Day in Korea, and all attractions are free - lucky us! Though we didn't save much money, the entrance fee was only 1000 won each which is about $1.20.

    Spent about 90 minutes wandering around taking photos and videos of the buildings which were quite impressive. Although the palace was originally built by one of the first Joseon rulers, it was destroyed at least once and then burned down accidentally in I think the 19th century, so a lot of what we were looking at wasn't that old.

    At 10:30 we headed out into the highlight of the palace, the Secret Garden. This was the 100% off limits area during royal times, where there were pavilions, buildings and shrines scattered amongst beautiful gardens. Very Chinese in style, though with Korean twists here as well. This area is only accessible via guided tour, so we stuck with the microphone lady - at least she was speaking English! It was quite interesting though, and we really enjoyed it.

    We emerged from the palace complex around 12:30pm, grabbed lunch at Paris Baguette (again!), and then walked over to Jongmyo Shrine, the second of today's World Heritage sites.

    The Joseon rulers were Confucians, so a central tenet of their faith is the worship of ancestors rather than gods. And since every Joseon was descended from the previous kings, there was a lot of worshipping to do. Here a large shrine complex was set up, just near the palaces, where the current kings could worship their ancestors on the appropriate day.

    It's not where they were buried - those were in various tombs around Korea, but every Joseon king (and queen) has a spirit shrine in the complex, containing tablets (similar to headstones I think?), and various other spiritual offerings. They weren't doing any offerings today which was a shame, as it looked like quite an interesting and elaborate ritual. The site was interesting enough, but it wasn't that big so by 3pm we were basically done.

    We headed back to the hotel and got stuck into some work and planning. Later in the evening we went out for Korean BBQ, where you buy raw meats and vegetables and cook them on a grill in your table. Fun, though very expensive for our budget!
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  • Day9

    SM Entertainment

    October 11, 2019 in South Korea ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Unser eigentliches Ziel für den Tag war eines der größten und bekanntesten Plattenlabel Südkoreas, SM Entertainment. Hier kann man an verschiedenen Standorten unterschiedlichste Dinge erleben. In einem werden Neuheiten vermarktet, in einem anderen kann man einen Kuchen im Design seiner Lieblingsband essen oder auch einfach ein wenig Merchandise kaufen.Read more

  • Day3

    Zondag 10 november 2019

    November 10, 2019 in South Korea ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Bas is vanzelfsprekend de enige die in het plaatselijke bioritme zit: wij waren rond 4 uur ‘s morgens wakker. Betekent op tijd op pad, kop koffie scoren bij een coffeeshop en vervolgens gelopen richting de stadsmuur van Seoul. We hebben een stuk langs de muur, die op een berg ligt, gelopen, van het uitzicht genoten en na een 45 minuten rechtsomkeer gemaakt. Beneden aangekomen zijn we in de metro gestapt om naar de andere kant van de stad te gaan: de wijk Gangnam. Naast dat dit deel van de stad bekend is van het liedje Gangnam style, is het een zakenwijk met chique winkels, luxe hotels en zie je dure auto’s rijden. Hier komen en wonen dus de rijkere inwoners van Seoul. Nieuwe kleding gekocht voor Bas en een behoorlijk stuk door deze grote wijk gelopen.
    Wat opvalt is dat er niet gerookt wordt op straat. De enkeling die wel rookt trekt zich terug in een steeg waar rookpalen staan en neemt daar zijn sigaret. Ook hebben we het idee dat we de enige toeristen zijn. Bas geeft aan dat er weinig westerse toeristen zijn echter wel Aziatische toeristen die voor ons allemaal op elkaar lijken. We treffen het overigens met het weer: droog en 14 graden.
    In de loop van de middag met de metro richting een andere leuke wijk. Inclusief overstappen zijn dit iedere keer ritten van circa 45 minuten, wat aangeeft hoe groot deze stad is. Het metrostelsel is enorm en niet met Amsterdam te vergelijken.
    Uiteindelijk in deze wijk gegeten om op tijd terug te zijn in het appartement. Op de terugreis worden we getrakteerd op een stevige plensbui: snel 3 paraplu’s gekocht en richting het dichtstbijzijnde metrostation gelopen. Thuis gaat de een nog wat leren, de ander kijkt Ajax (4-0 gewonnen van Utrecht!) of leest een boek.
    Vandaag ruim 25.000 stappen gezet, inclusief de wandeling naar boven langs de muur en slenteren door de winkelstraten. Het zijn er 5.000 meer dan gisteren. Morgen 30.000?
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You might also know this place by the following names:

Bonguidong, 봉의동