Spain
Burgos

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    • Day 16

      Day 16: Burgos

      September 25, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

      It was 38 “feels like 35” degrees Fahrenheit when we left Agés before dawn this morning—and I was looking forward to getting a warmer layer of clothing in Burgos. We were thrilled to be on the move, though.

      After last night, we’ll be booking smaller 4 to 8 bed bunk rooms or private rooms. There were two people in the dorm who appeared to be quite ill, along with so much loud, frequent coughing from all directions that we both slept wearing K95 masks.

      The 23 kilometers to Burgos didn’t fly by as effortlessly as yesterday’s mileage, but we did enjoy some beautiful vistas along the way.

      After checking in to our hotel, we set out to find some lunch and were very pleased with a meal we had right around the corner.

      Tonight we’ll have dinner with some pilgrims we’d first met at Orisson, and tomorrow we’ll enjoy a rest day here in Burgos.
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    • Day 17

      Day 17: Rest day in Burgos

      September 26, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 41 °F

      It felt ever so luxurious to stay in bed until mid morning today.

      We’ve walked about 284 kilometers of the Camino Francés so far, with about 493 kilometers yet to get across by October 17. We’ll be taking a train to Madrid the next day, as we begin our journey home to Florida.

      We’ve been concerned we might run out of time to get to Santiago de Compostela, so we decided to rent ebikes to cover 178 kilometers across the meseta from Burgos to León in 3 days—shaving 4 walking days off that stretch.

      Tomorrow, we’ll ease into traveling by bike with a 32k ride to Hontanas.
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    • Day 16

      Etappe 12 - Hontanas

      September 27, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 5 °C

      Gut ausgeruht geht es heute weiter - entweder bis Hontanas oder nach Castrojeriz.
      Mal schauen, was Füße und Geist meinen.
      Die Stadt schläft noch - Pilger sind etliche schon auf den Beinen.
      Nach ca. 2,5 Stunden gab es eine kleine Rast mit Frühstück in Tardajo.
      Weiter ging es durch die
      Meseta. Das ist eine Hochebene, in welcher viel Getreide angebaut wird. Bei Beginn der heutigen Pilgertour hatten wir in Burgos nur 6 Grad Celsius - jetzt teilweise Temperaturen um 3 Grad -
      eigentlich haben Handschuhe gefehlt!
      In Rabé de las Calzadas waren wir Pilger in einer kleinen Kirche am Ortsrand willkommen. Wer die Kirche betrat, bekam nicht nur einen Stempel in seinen Pilgerpass, sondern wurde von einer älteren Dame auf seinen Namen gesegnet und bekam einen kleinen Anhänger um den Hals. Berührende Zeremonie.
      Durch die Meseta ging es weiter nach Hornillos del Camino. In einer Bar noch schnelle Rast (Stempel 469 Km nach Santiago). Ca. 10 km weiter stand dann 477 km auf einem Meilenstein. Soviel zu spanischen Kilometerangaben!!!
      Nach Hornillos kam ein nicht enden wollender Weg bis Hontanas.
      Hontanas ist ein kleiner Ort mit vielen Herbergen. Hier endet in vielen Reiseführern diese Etappe.
      Da es mir trotz der Strapazen gut ging, habe ich beschlossen, meine ursprüngliche Reiseplanung bis Castrojeriz fortzusetzen.
      Bloß gut!!!
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    • Day 33

      A day in Burgos

      April 29, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      Not the day we imagined…we love Burgos and I hadn’t planned to spend the morning in hospital…we persuaded them to discharge me, but I have to say I still feel queasy, which is upsetting as I can’t face the beautiful food on offer. I also couldn’t face another lonely night in the hospital…once in the ward, it is a very solo experience…they are very nice,, and try to do a little English, but my Spanish has gone to pot under the circumstances and it is very frustrating not to be able to converse properly.

      So we did venture out a little. Amr had explored a bit yesterday too and he back on track with the city. It really is a city, with cars even going through the centre, but as charming as ever. I got to check out the cathedral and Plaza Mayor…Amr had to have dinner alone as I couldn’t be around food!

      Not sure where we stand for tomorrow…plan is for me to taxi to Hornillos del Camino, but it is a tiny place and we’ll see in the morning.
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    • Day 42

      Out in the world again!

      May 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

      Hurray! I was discharged this morning by the lovely doctor Michelle who has seen me through all this, and a lovely non English speaking surgeon. To my delight they said I could eat anything - that is nothing is forbidden, but just be moderate and not too spicy…etc…so I no longer a patient, and we had a lunch at Amr’s favourite tapas bar and I tasted delicious food at last.. and a little wine. And lots of water…I certainly will be moderate as do NOT want anything to go wrong again.

      It is a beautiful day in Burgos and we walked gently quite a lot (that was part of the instruction too - walk a lot, but not Camino!). It was siesta time most of our walking time, so the city was quiet and so good for me to see it all feeling well. Walked along the beautiful tree-lined path beside the river and sat with kindles for quite a while. Saw pilgrims walking through….life is continuing.

      Amr has booked a bus for us from Burgos (the bus station is conveniently just up the street from our hotel) to León tomorrow at 10.30, and that ride will be our viewing of the meseta. We stay in León 2 nights, another beautiful city, and then get another bus to Hospital de Órbigo (name of town, NOT a hospital!) and from there our old itinerary kicks in. Amr will walk, and I will get bus or whatever transport is available. Looked up the bus from there to the next place and it was a 16 min ride!! I’m actually starting to look forward to this life of swanning from village to village, and I’ll see all the familiar places. Anyway, more of that as it happens.

      I had my first squeezed OJ at the little bar at the hotel…so good. Soon we will set off for dinner.

      Just back from dinner: Amr had the menu del dia, but I just had soup a La Castellana which was more than enough…he had the soup too, and some salmon…now back at 10 pm and the tapas bars are still full and buzzing…surely they don’t go home now for dinner??
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    • Day 12

      11. DAY | 14 km

      May 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

      Ein Tag in Burgos...

      Irgendwie hätte man heute meinen können, ich würde schon immer hier leben. Gemütlich lief ich zur Post und habe schon einmal ein Paket von 3,29 Kilo nach Santiago verschickt, um mich zu entlasten also eigentlich benötigt man zum überleben tatsächlich nichts und dann spazierte ich durch die Stadt und gefühlt traf ich eine Menge Pilger die sich meinen Namen gemerkt hatten und mich begrüßten. Die Massage war ein Traum zumindest wurde alles lang gezogen was man nur lang ziehen konnte und nun bin ich ready für morgen.

      Ich sagte euch bereits gestern, dass ich hier einen Spezialauftrag hatte und zwar lernte ich den Montag vor meiner Abreise bekannte meiner Tante in einem Restaurant kennen, Sie waren emotional sehr angeschlagen und so kamen wir ins Gespräch, aus dem sich raus filterte, dass Sie einen schweren Verlust hatten. Nachdem wir lange sprachen sagten Sie zu mir: Erinnere dich an unseren Engel wenn du in Burgos bist, da dies die Herkunft war. Also suchte ich mir heute ein schönes Plätzchen aus und verewigte durch einen Schmetterling diesen Moment und einige Minuten später flog eine Taube Richtung Himmel.

      Wisst ihr was mir alles einfacher macht? Zu wissen dass wir alle unter dem gleichen Himmel sind.

      Gute Nacht
      Elli

      Un giorno a Burgos...

      In qualche modo si potrebbe pensare che io abbia sempre vissuto qui. Oggi sono andata tranquillamente all'ufficio postale e ho spedito un pacco di 3,29 chili a Santiago per alligerirmi, quindi in realtà non hai bisogno di nulla per sopravvivere, e poi camminavo per la città e ho incontrato molti pellegrini che si sono ricordati il mio nome e mi hanno salutata. Il massaggio è stato un sogno ora sono pronto per domani.

      Vi ho già detto ieri che ho avuto un compite speciale qui a Burgos e cioè il lunedì prima di partire ho incontrato in un ristorante alcune persone che conosceva mia zia, erano molto tristi ed emotivamente e così ci siamo messi a parlare, da cui è uscito fuori che avevano avuto una grave perdita. Dopo aver parlato a lungo mi hanno detto: "Ricordati del nostro angelo quando sarai a Burgos, perché questa era l'origine". Così oggi ho scelto un posto bellissimo e ho immortalato il momento con una farfalla, e pochi minuti dopo una colomba ha attraversato il cielo.

      Sapete cosa mi rende tutto più facile? Sapere che siamo tutti sotto lo stesso cielo.

      Buona notte Elli
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    • Day 28

      Burgos

      May 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

      Ik weet niet wat er aan de hand is maar mijn verhaal is verdwenen.... opnieuw dus.....
      Na gisterenavond zeer laat toch nog een kamer gevonden te hebben in hotel Belorade had ik als diner 2 zakjes naturel Chips en 4 citroenbier(tjes) genuttigd.
      Vanochtend na het uitchecken terug naar het dorp om inkopen te doen voor het ontbijt en dagproviand. Het werd stokbrood met zalm en koffie voor ontbijt en stokbrood, zuivel en beleg voor de dag. In Belorado vroeg ik een man naar het bureau van toerisme voor de stempel. Ik zag een voor mij herkenbare rugzak... en vroeg hem daarna. Hij bleek Brits en erkende de herkomst van de rugzak. Het bleek dat hij een paar jaar voor de liefde naar Spanje was geëmigreerd. Hij had zijn zoontje net naar de peuterspeelplaats gebracht. We spraken even over hoe het kan lopen en ik wenste hem nog veel geluk. Ik heb mijn verhaal maar niet verteld..
      En daarna op de pedalen.. al snel waande ik me in no-mens-land. Zover ik kon kijken natuur of landbouwgrond. Ik ben gestopt met me af te vragen of de route ook de kortste is (want dat is niet) maar dan is het uren stil, heel stil met een landschap van heuvel na heuvel en ja hoor ook zeker een dal. De zon liet zich niet zien vandaag, de wind liet zich wel horen en voelen, het was koud mag ik zeggen en de hele dag dreigde een regenbui, daar is het overigens bij gebleven. En daar fiets ik dan, de wind waaide om mijn oren, nee niet even maar eigenlijk de hele dag, dus goed gekleed blijven! En dan is daar dat kleine dorpje met een huiskamer, een café en open dus in de remmen om even bij te komen. 3 kopjes koffie in totaal en ik zag dat deze huiskamer ook een aardig alcohol-assortiment had en gedurende de afgelopen dagen had ik gezien dat er al op vroege uren 'werd geschonken'. Ik denk dat het sociale isolement daarvan de oorzaak is. Wat ook is opgevallen is dat er behoorlijk gegokt wordt. Met formulieren zit men voor de tv voor waarschijnlijk een uitslag. Ik neem aan dat men niet op de fietser gokt (🙈🙈) En dan fiets ik weer verder. Rond lunchtijd zet ik mijn fiets aan de kant bij een kinderspeelplaats met banken. Ik ben de enige. Op een gegeven moment word ik aangesproken door kennelijk 2 pelgrims te voet die vragen naar de busregeling. Ik verwijs hun naar een café wat ik net voorbij was gereden. Na de lunch voelde ik dat ik een extra pauze moest inlassen en vervoegde mij bij het café. De 2 pelgrims zaten binnen en ik vroeg hen naar hun tocht, ook op weg naar Burgos ze vonden het koud buiten en hadden een taxi besteld. Zo zie je maar dat eenieder zijn eigen beleving bij deze tocht heeft... 3,5 uur later arriveerde ik na menig heuvel op en af in Burgos, zij waren waarschijnlijk al lang in Burgos... de zon scheen en op een bankje boekte ik via booking.com een hotel, net buiten het centrum. Mijn lunch werd ook in het park genuttigd en daarna via de kathedraal, met stempel naar het hotel toe. Met een voldaan gevoel over de dag die ik met veel momenten van teveel naar ik had overwonnen. Ik bedoel hiermee dat er gedurende de dag weer veel momenten waren geweest met teveel onderwerpen die ik terug moest weten te brengen tot niet meer dan ik om een helling te overwinnen... en het lukte, de focus op de 4- kante meter voor je neus, het voorwiel. Een bijzondere ervaring die werkt!!!!!!
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    • Day 19 - Atapuerca to Burgos - 21km

      September 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      I am resting in my 1 star luxury in Burgos after a long hot shower and exploring Burgos Cathedral.

      I started off in the morning at 8am. I had planned to leave at that time as I wasn’t in a rush and I had a place booked already. Unfortunately, in the morning I saw the forecast and there was rain scheduled for noon. If I had seen that last night, I may have planned to leave earlier to try and avoid it.

      Oh well, off we go, the first part was a climb out of town on a very rocky path. When crossing the top, I saw the labyrinth that we passed the first time. I have pictures but never remembered where it was.

      Once down from the hill, it was a pretty easy going path. The next step was to find the riverside way into Burgos instead of the industry area. When it came time make our turn, there were a few of us looking at maps. We made the turn, and reality is that not very many people walked this way today.

      When I got into Castañares I had to make a choice to walk by the river or walk where the businesses were. I decided to walk where the businesses were as it was now raining and I would have more opportunity to duck out of the rain if needed. I was partially correct. I forgot that it is Sunday and most businesses are closed, except for restaurants and bars.

      It started to come down hard as I was passing a bar, so I went in. There were signs everywhere saying there is a 10 Euro minimum. I wasn’t hungry but I was wet and cold, so it was worth it. I ordered meatballs and rice salad. I did not enjoy either of them but the rain had slowed now so time to move on. I checked Google and I had an hour walk left.

      It only rained a little more, and then stopped. I had found my hotel, checked in and flopped down on my bed. It was such an amazing feeling. I had no where I had to be, no one to meet, no one expected in the room, I could just empty my bag and leave everything anywhere I like and wander around naked.

      The shower was huge and had a chair in it. I got undressed and had at least a 15 minute shower, then it was time to flop on the bed again. Checked Wifi and it was so fast, I am in heaven!

      I did want to see the cathedral while here so I decided I better head out. As I was at the cathedral, I ran into Marie so we toured it together. We could download the app and listen /read the descriptions throughout the cathedral. It didn’t disappoint, but boy am I tired now!

      Tomorrow will be a short day again. I want to do a little shopping here in Burgos and the shops don’t open until 10, so it will be a late start with a 12km walk.

      Throwback to 2009 from Julie’s journal

      The morning was kind of nice in Burgos. We stayed in bed well after 7pm watching everyone else pack up and go. We finally arose and was out the door by 7:45am. But before I go into the day, I have to tell you how nice it was last night sleeping beside him. At one point, he unzipped his sleeping bag and snuggled into me (spooning), it was so wonderful. After about 30 mins, he started to fall between the beds so I had to let him go but it was a wonderful memory.
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    • Day 18

      Cardeñuela Riopica to Burgos

      September 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

      Today I had to taxi 15km to Burgos. All that walking in the rain yesterday totally aggravated my blisters plus I am dealing with a cold. We called a taxi and when it arrived, 2 other pilgrims from Italy asked if they could catch a ride with me. Absolutely! Instead of the ride costing me €30 it was only €10. Todd walked the 15km into Burgos with Cecile and Claire. We met up at the incredibly beautiful Cathedral of Santa Maria. We also ran into our old friend Angela today. Todd and I have decided to spend tonight and tomorrow night in a hotel in Burgos to let my blisters and cold heal. And to get a good night sleep.
      I also finally agreed to let Claire pop my blisters….in the middle of the main square of Burgos. We were a source of entertainment for many. I am squeamish with that stuff and nearly passed out.
      For dinner tonight, Todd went to the grocery store and we stuffed our faces with cheese, crackers, olives, chips, nuts, chocolate and wine.
      It was a sad day because we parted ways with our very dear Camino family Cecile and Claire. Cecile will be going back home to the French Alps soon. But hopefully we will be able to catch up with Claire again.
      15 Km 3 hrs
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    • Day 19

      Exploring Burgos

      September 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      Took the opportunity to explore more of Burgos since we are here for an extra day. Came across a wedding at the magnificent cathedral. I loved all the beautiful outfits everyone was wearing. I have to say the Spanish people know how to dress!! It helps that they are all very skinny!!Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Burgos, برغش, Burqos, Горад Бургас, Бургос, Μπούργος, Burgoso, Burgus, بورگوس, בורגוס, Բուրգոս, RGS, ブルゴス, 부르고스, Burgi, Burgosas, Burgosa, برگوس, 09001, बुर्गोस, บูร์โกส, 布尔戈斯

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