Praia de NergaApril 14, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C
Thankfully we were both feeling better today. We needed supplies so Will had programmed in a couple of supermarkets. One of the main roads was closed and unfortunately this was one of those areas where there were few alternatives. The sat nav directed us up into the hills, along single track roads and through tightly packed little villages. It was a difficult drive and we sighed with relief when we got back onto a double width carriageway, passing a coach and feeling very grateful we hadn't met it up in the hills. We removed a couple of waypoints hoping this would get us back on track, but with an awful sense of deja vu we were directed up the same road again and yes, we did meet the coach this time!😞
With all but our overnight spot removed from the sat nav it found a sensible route, then low and behold we came accross the Lidl that we'd initially aimed for! Our stopover at Praia de Nerga on the Costa da Vela wasn't too much further on. A one way road looped down a hill to an idyllic beach nestled into the south side of a small peninsula, protected by a headland and a number of islands. A little way out to sea were a couple of dozen low platforms that were probably some sort of aquaculture installation, growing mussels or goose barnacles.
Dogs weren't allowed on the beach but after we had taken Poppy out, we went for a barefoot walk along the bleached blonde sand. There were outdoor showers and a tap, but the water was turned off. The area was a nature reserve and to our right the low dunes were mostly fenced off. Signs told us that Plovers, a ground nesting bird, were using them as a breeding ground. To our left the tide was high and the waves seemed to tower out of nowhere, quickly folding and rushing up towards us with incredible speed and range. Vicky enjoyed trying to outrun them, although she was always better at long distance than sprinting, so was frequently caught and her shorts splashed. A small group of sea kayakers were setting off to adventures unknown, these boats were so well suited to the conditions, whereas our wide, open top Canadian Canoe is most definitely not! Rivers had cut deep courses through the sand, exposing its layers of shells. Paddling over these, we reached the rocks and pine woodland that bracketed the far end of the little bay. Climbing up over the grey stone and looking back, we watched the red sail of a kite surfer zipping back and forth. For the rest of the day Vicky knitted and Will practiced his guitar while we watched the now three kite surfers playing on the waves, jumping and turning.
The following morning we noticed 4 officials taping off a channel on the sand and a photographer waiting. After a while a large group of horse riders bridged the hill to our left and made their way onto the shore. There were some beautiful horses, many of them highly strung arabs. One in particular galloped through the surf in large circles, its neck arched and tail held high. This first group moved on along the road and but more arrived and over the next hour hundreds of horses passed by! We weren't confident at making ourselves understood in the local Galician language, so instead of asking, we tried our hardest to find any information about this event online, but to no avail.
The day was overcast and rained on and off, but in the afternoon surfers and body boarders began to arrive, until there were a dozen in the water, waiting for an opportunity. Will was tempted, but we'd been watching the waves and they folded very quickly after cresting, meaning it was exceptionally difficult to catch them at the right time and the ride they gave was brief.
The evening was dry and we took a short walk up the track the horses had emerged from. Dense bushes grew up around the narrow path and we even found some aromatic bay leaves to forage. When a secluded cove revealed itself we dropped down onto the coarse sand and broken shells, watching the waves crash into the rocks.
Even with the limited time we have left in Spain we were very happy to have given over two days to our stay at this gorgeous seaside spot.Read more