Spanien
Castrojeriz

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    • Dag 24

      Magical Meseta

      29. maj, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

      We had our second day walking through the maseta on Wednesday, accompanied by the sound of birds and a Canadian named Helen. We walked 11 km to Hantanas, a small pilgrim village tucked in the fields. I stopped at the El Puntido bar and Albergi for refreshments and sat at an outdoor table on the Camino that passed through the little town.

      My feet decided that the morning walk was enough for the day so I called a taxi to take me to Castrojeriz. The driver was very friendly, she even paused for a moment so I could look at the Arco San Antonio which the ruins of a 16th century ancient convent, Pilgrims can still stay here without electricity but share a meal. It still contains recessed alcoves where bread was left for pilgrims.

      The hotel in Castrojeriz it's very nice and built up into the hill with lovely views looking over the meseta. We toured the tunnels underneath the hotel which were cold and stone places where people in the past kept their animals in wine and who knows what else.

      We walked to dinner with Cheryl at the plaza Mayor and had good pizza and chatted with a digital nomad blogger from Italy.

      As we go to back to the hotel after dinner at 10:00 the sun is still setting. It is so wild to have such long days.
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    • Dag 17

      Yet more poppies and big skies

      7. juni, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

      After the heat yesterday we got up really early and walked 19km to the first cup of coffee through beautiful fields of wheat and poppies. We found a place with carrot cake for breakfast and kept on walking down to a ruined abbey that Fiona wanted to stay the night in. Except that we saw a sign in the middle of nowhere for a veggie, alternative lifestyle place in Castrojeriz so here I am sitting in a beautiful peaceful garden under a tree. There are only four beds, which are in a huge yoga studio, and only three of us staying so far. It's a very lovely place which promises some variation on the pilgrim diet, which being meat heavy is not really my thing.
      Walked past a poppy and purple flower field. The attached photo doesn't do it justice.
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    • Dag 21

      Day 20 24k to Fromista, and a canal boat

      26. maj, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 46 °F

      Big climb out of our lonely town this morning, then the landscape flattened out. Our albergue owner cooked us a breakfast that included vegetables, which are hard to find here. As we came into the town of Fromista this afternoon, there was a canal boat that we hopped on, and for 2 euros it transported us the last 5k into Fromista. Fromista is a bigger town, families are out, this Sunday evening. Oh, and storks nests! Ive seen 7 or 8 storks nests, so far. They are huge! Pic attached. Our accommodations at the Hotel San Martin are nice.Læs mere

    • Dag 20–21

      D19- Hontanas to Itero de la Vega 21.3 k

      1. juni, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

      Walked so far 334.4 km. 432.6km to go km
      After a lovely night at the Albergue Santo Brigida we set off about 7am after a quick coffee. It wasn’t just as cold as the day before but there was still a chill in the air. After 5km we came to the ruins of San Anton monastery and pilgrims hospital. There is an 12 bed Albergue run by volunteers on site. We ventured a few more kms and stopped for breakfast at a cafe as we entered the town of Castrojeriz. It was a fair sized town but not much activity to be seen, maybe being a Saturday morning everyone was still indoors. Leaving Castrojeriz we walked for a bit then saw a sign that said we had a 1050m climb up the Alto de Mostelares. It was a long windy km ascent and at the top there is a picnic area with beautiful views over the countryside we had left behind. The descent on the other side was much steeper but the scenery was amazing. We continued on the trail a bit further and saw the old pilgrim hospital of San Nicolas and now a small albergue. Just after this we cross the Puente Fitero and we are now in the region of Palencia. Our albergue Puente Fitero was 1.5 km after this, very nice albergue and we had a room for five which we shared with Chris and Kate. We ate lasagna for dinner washed down with the best sangria we have had so far.Læs mere

    • Dag 30

      29. Etappe: Fromista (25 km)

      25. november 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

      Um 6 Uhr war heute die Nacht zu Ende, plötzlich ging das Licht an 🙈- viel zu früh für mich! Trotzdem ging es erst spät los, entspannt bei Sonnenschein. Zu Beginn rin kleiner Aufstieg, danach flach und am Ende entlang eines Kanals. Heute liefen Luiz, Clemens und ich den ganzen Tag entspannt gemeinsam und trafen ab und zu einige andere Pilger auf dem Weg. Dank der Empfehlung des Hospitalieros kehrten wir in der sehr gemütlichen kleinen Unterkunft Betania ein. Nach einen leckeren italienisch-französischem Abendessen freuen wir uns alle auf eine entspannte Nacht 😊Læs mere

    • Dag 15

      Day 12 - Leon

      10. oktober 2023, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 63 °F

      The thing about Spain is there are no screens on the windows. Even the fanciest hotels sometimes don’t have air conditioning. Evidently we did not learn from our prior bug infestation, and when we returned to our room last night we were overwhelmed with flying insects. Joan jumped into action and got them all. A Pilgrim is always working.

      So no air all night, this led to a poor nights sleep for Joan, (Julie slept like a baby). Joan awoke with a hip issue and immediately began stretching. Good thing we are at a spa, as Joan was able to go to the massage chair, Turkish bath, all to help her aching joints and muscles. Julie went to an amazing breakfast.

      Our cab arrived promptly at 10 am for a quick jaunt to Palencia. One look at the big hill outside of the spa, led to our decision to take a rest day and take a quick cab and then train to Leon.

      Oh and Julie was bit by a bee/wasp on her arm and had growing red reaction around the sting. Dr Joan was a big help and our first stop in Palencia was a Pharmacia for some bug lotion and a new knee brace for Joan. We had time to see some of the interesting sights in their old town and off to the train to Leon (45 min). We walked to our hotel in old town and then to out to explore. No time to see the sights, Julie needed new Hoka shoes and Joan some rain pants. However most/all stores closed 1- 5 pm for siesta. We found a great spot for some cocktails and a rousing game of uno. We were successful finding our new gear and off to search for dinner. We both had a hankering for pasta and found a great outdoor Italian cafe with beautiful views of the Cathedral.

      Tomorrow is a national holiday in Spain as they celebrate- National Day of Spain. They celebrate Christopher Columbus sailing to the new world- October 12, 1492. All shops closed, bars and restaurants are open. We will celebrate appropriately as we will be in Leon another day.

      Buen Camino!
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    • Dag 21

      Into Frómista

      8. oktober 2023, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 48 °F

      Today we got up early and started our walk to Frómista in the dark. In fact the first hour or so wasn’t the light of headlamps! We had a big uphill in the dark. Then we began being able to see.

      We’re on La Meseta, a relatively flat agricultural area that is isolated. La Meseta has a reputation as a boring, monotonous weeklong stretch, and many people skip it because “it’s boring.” We have both found this whole area lovely! It’s quiet and pretty, and the agricultural fields are interesting. Today we saw dry agriculture as well as irrigated fields. We saw many different crops, and there were several we couldn’t identify. The weirdest thing we saw was when we could see a rise ahead and saw what looked like a white bus. “What IS that?” we kept asking each other. Turns out it was a boat in a canal. We walked along side the canal for about two miles.

      So having mostly recovered from COVID we have been feeling good. And it was all fun and games until about the last three or four miles today when all of a sudden David started to tilt. Like his body is leaning to one side! Because of his cognitive issues it was hard to get a straight answer out of him about what was going on. (Just as an aside, not giving information in a straightforward way seems to be one of the big things that has changed about David’s day to day personality. He kind of talks circles around whatever he’s trying to say. It’s quite frustrating for the listener, usually me. Maybe it’s frustrating to him, too? It’s hard to say.) It seems that somehow he hurt his lower back and that’s made him lean? He looks a little like a banana or a boomerang when he normally would be standing straight up and down. We made it to the hotel and he’s konked out and I gave him three ibuprofen. Not sure what we’ll do tomorrow. I carried David’s backpack and my own the last two miles or so. And we can ship his backpack ahead and I can carry both of our water and sweaters, etc. Some kindhearted people on the trail were telling me he was very badly injured and needed to go to the hospital. But I’m not sure kindhearted trail passersby are the best source of medical information! Obviously I’ll let you know how we dealt with this tomorrow once we figure it out ourselves.
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    • Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz

      30. september 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

      Tonight we sleep in Castrojeriz on the Spanish Meseta, a town which has had some human presence for 4000 years. A beautiful ancient town built on the slopes of a hill topped by a castle. See the photo.

      Todays walk was in two halves, each equally beautiful. We left Hornillos at first light and walked the first 11km on an easy gravel path across a classic featureless Meseta landscape under a cool cloudy sky. Perfect walking conditions. Contemplative. We lunched in Hontanas, a classic Camino village at the halfway mark. Hontanas is 700+ years old and in a tiny valley in the Meseta landscape. The cloud cleared after lunch and we walked most of the way to Castrojeriz through the valley of the river called Arroyo del Garbanzuelo. It is a completely different landscape to the high plains. Many trees both conifer and deciduous. We stopped for a rest and drink just short of Castrojeriz at the long abandoned Convento de San Antón.

      We have encountered a three generation group of New Zealanders comprising grandparents, married children and a couple of toddlers over the last few days and are staying at the same hotel tonight. Very nice people and coping well with the needs of travelling the Camino with little ones.

      After 2 weeks plus walking 20km+ most days our bodies seem to have become somewhat accustomed to the rigours of the Camino. Kevin’s knees are now doing their job better than before leaving Boston and my (J) dodgy feet are cooperating as long as I do my post walk stretches. I must admit to including anti inflammatory meds as an essential food group for the next few weeks.
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    • Dag 13

      13. DAY | 10 km

      11. maj 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      Folge deinem Herzen immer...

      Wir sind nicht geboren um alleine zu sein und auch wenn ich bisher an dieser Aussage Zweifel hatte, dann nur weil ich bisher nie so (alleine) war wie jetzt. Heute wo ich hier bin, weiß ich dass unser einziges Zuhause dort ist wo unsere Herzensmenschen sind. Morgens möchte ich hier alleine sein, was heißt alleine Gott ist immer dabei, aber er ist ganz leise und macht sich nur durch die Natur und der Bibel in meinen Ohren bemerkbar. Abends ist es dann schön jemanden hier zu haben, der dir so nah ist obwohl man sich kaum kennt. Ich möchte hier kein Wettrennen starten, mir ist es nicht wichtig vorne dabei zu sein, mir ist es wichtig meinem Herzen zu folgen und das wichtigste vom Camino zu genießen, denn der Weg ist das Ziel und nichts anderes, auch ein Satz was ich zuvor nicht verstanden hatte. Vor einigen Tagen sagte ein Einheimischer zu mir "Elli weißt du was das wichtigste hier ist ? Der Austausch mit den Menschen" ich antwortet ihm " Mit Sicherheit aber auch der Austausch mit Gott" und er sagte WOW du bist also ein Teil der 20% die für den Glauben kommen (eigentlich traurig).

      So und während ich diese Zeilen schrieb näherte sich ein Mann Namens Juan Pierre und sagte " Was hast du denn für einen guten Gang drauf, ich war beeindruckt" ich tanze und singe meistens meinen Weg. Wenige Minuten später kam Tom dazu, erinnert ihr euch an den der alle überholt? Was dann geschah bewahre ich für den Rest meines Lebens in meinem Herzen! Es gibt hierfür keine Worte und dass ist auch okay.

      Elli

      Segui sempre il tuo cuore...

      Non siamo nati per essere soli e anche se finora ho avuto dei dubbi su questa affermazione, è solo perché non sono mai stata così (sola) come ora. Oggi che sono qui, so che la nostra unica casa è dove si trovano le nostre Persone dell cuore. Al mattino voglio starmene da sola, il che significa che Dio è sempre con me, ma è molto silenzioso e si fa sentire solo attraverso la natura e la Bibbia nelle mie orecchie. La sera è bello avere qui qualcuno che ti è così vicino anche se ci si conosciamo appena. Non voglio fare una gara, non è importante per me essere una delle prime, è importante per me seguire il mio cuore e godermi la parte più importante del Camino, perché il cammino è la meta e nient'altro, un'altra frase che non avevo capito finora. Qualche giorno fa un abitante del luogo mi ha detto: "Elli sai qual è la cosa più importante qui? Lo scambio con la gente" Gli ho risposto "Sicuramente, ma anche lo scambio con Dio" e lui mi ha detto WOW tu fai parte di quel 20% che viene per la fede (in realtà triste).

      Oggi, mentre scrivevo queste righe, un uomo di nome Juan Pierre si è avvicinato e mi ha detto "Che bella camminata decisa che hai, sono rimasto impressionato". Pochi minuti dopo è arrivato anche Tom, vi ricordate quello che supera tutti? Quello che è successo dopo lo conserverò nel mio cuore per il resto della mia vita! Non ci sono parole per tutto questo.

      Elli
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    • Dag 26

      Castrojeriz to Fromista

      29. september 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

      Unfortunately we were not successful in locating a bar last night that was going to play the rugby, in fact I don't think much happens in Castrojeriz. However we did have a great pilgrim dinner and they were serving garlic soup so the boys were very happy as photo will show. Note the glasses our darling waiter is wearing! We got back to our wonderful roomy bedrooms and listened to the rugby on the RWC app which was pretty good and much healthier than propping up a bar. Great win so went to sleep happy.
      We got up at 530 and were on the road by 6.15 knowing the day was going to be hot. The mornings as usual was just beautiful with a nearly full moon lighting up the way although we did need our torches. We had quite a climb of 150 metres ascent but luckily it was nice and cool. When we got to the top the views of the surrounding valleys were stunning with the moon still up and the sun rising in the east. One thing we miss is the dawn chorus and all we heard was one lonely crow.
      Down we trekked into a valley leading us to Fromista. We crossed over a beautiful old bridge with mist coming off the river and the sun rising behind us. By the time we had walked 11 km with not much food inside us we were desperately hoping a cafe would be open and luckily Brian found a bar/ cafe . It was full of the local hombres who were enjoying some sort of liqueur drink. This was at 10 am but it was a Saturday and who are we to judge!
      We rested awhile over coffees and big bread rolls of pastrami and cheese, called bocadillos. That totally revived us so on we went for 14 more km with the day getting hotter and hotter. We passed fields of fresh cut hay( love the smell of that) and dying sunflowers. It was the first irrigation we had seen so there was a bit of greenery and a few old castle ruins. Not unsimiliar to walking through Central Otago minus the sunflowers.
      5 km from Fromista we came across another village and nothing was happening here at all . It was like walking into one of those deserted towns in a western. What we wouldn't have done for a cold drink there!
      On we walked, although my walk becomes a plod after about 20 km. Luckily we walked along a canal and even had some trees to give a bit of shade. We do have lots of chats as we walk but usually that has tapered off in the last few km! I walked and talked for a few km with Gail from North Carolina who dined with us last night and was a great person to while away a few km with.
      Finally in the heat of the midday sun we arrived at Fromista with a declining population of 840 and for a Spanish village on a Saturday it seems quite lively.
      Our hotel is quaint and our bedroom overlooks the stunning Iglesias de Martin X1 C for which Fromista is famous for. But as beautiful as the sight of this amazing church was, a more appealing view was that of the bar serving cold beers. It too had lots of locals lazily sipping the afternoon away.
      Now it's siesta time before we venture out to explore ,but as it's 30 outside it won't be for awhile.
      Just a note on the team of eight ( our feet) . None of our feet have let the team down to date and no blisters so we are very pleased as we come across so many pilgrims in terrible distress that can hardly walk, often young ones but no,
      our team are soldiering on. Long may it last.
      Siesta time
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