Spain
Foncebadón

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    • Day 21

      Cruz de Ferro

      August 6, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

      The Cruz was moved in the 80s to get it closer to the tour bus stop, but the original has been here since before the Camino (and, as a heap of rocks since before Christianity).

      The following 9 kilometer are steeply downhill until El Acebo, where I am posting this from, drinking Cola Zero and eating way too much.Read more

    • Day 23

      Foncebadón, and decisions to make

      August 14, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

      I checked in at the Albergue del Convento. For dinner I ate an avocado and crackers I had with me.
      Yesterday I made a comment, that I was on track to complete the walk early, but didn't want it to end. There are a couple of things I can do about that:
      1. Switch to the Camino de Invierno, which is very scenic and a few days longer, and/or
      2. After Santiago, keep walking to Finisterre and/or Muxia.
      I am tempted to do the Invierno because I know the standard Camino Francés gets very busy in the last 100k. The problem with that is that I wouldn't want to be in the middle of a crowd, and it may get difficult to find accommodation without prior booking.
      The challenge of the Invierno is that, since it's not too frequented, there is less infrastructure and accommodation can also be difficult but for different reasons. I still have at least another day to make up my mind. I put some questions on the Forum to help me decide.
      Ideally, I would like to go to Finisterre too, and if I can maintain the current rhythm, both extensions are doable.
      Read more

    • Day 24

      Cold morning

      August 15, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

      I heard before that Foncebadón is a cold place, so it didn't surprise me. I started the walk with a jacket on, for the first time. It was 10°C and my hands were freezing.
      I was walking alone and all of a sudden I saw Jinjoo! She walked 30k yesterday and started very early today, both big efforts.
      She was with a Korean friend and we walked together to Cruz de Ferro.
      Read more

    • Day 24

      Cruz de Ferro

      August 15, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

      This is a milestone in the Camino, and one of the highlights of the day.
      There's a tradition, where people bring a stone from their hometown and visualise all their troubles as being transferred to the stone, and they leave it at the foot of the cross - leaving their troubles behind. I didn't do it, because I don't believe in those things and it wouldn't have been authentic. Plus, I don't have any troubles! 🤣
      Seriously, it's very common for people to ask why you're doing the Camino. Many are searching for answers, or a purpose in life, or to resolve or forget certain problems. I am very grateful that I don't have any problems and am very happy with my life.
      Read more

    • Day 26

      Day 26

      September 18, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      This morning’s walk started off freezing cold, for the first hour I seriously thought I should have put tights on.. I’d even have worn hat and gloves if I’d had them to hand!!
      Soon afterwards it started to warm up, and actually became really quite hot.
      It’s fair to say I absolutely loved it today, the route headed up into the mountains and it was constant climbing the whole time.. actually finished at 1440 meters ( 4725 foot ) the scenery was amazing, the sky was blue ( my stomach had stopped hurting ) and I was going uphill.. yes!!!!
      I passed so many people today, Henry, who I said goodbye to, as he’s heading back home on the train tomorrow.. Bianca, who gave me a pilgrims card .. apparently the card you choose is the one that speaks to you and that’s why you pick that particular one.. mine was “ choose wisely “ I’ll put a picture on..
      Chloe and Ben, who were sat halfway up a climb and offered me a biscuit as I passed … the two Italian guy’s who say “ beep beep “ every time they see me ( even in a restaurant!! ) after christening me the roadrunner in the first week. I even had another Spanish guy on a mountain bike shout “ Isle of Man, Isle of Man “ give me a thumbs up and a high five!!
      A couple of my regulars got a taxi today as they’d been struggling and decided today’s wasn’t a good idea for them.
      I do admit to being a bit distracted at times, msging Steve to see how Hannah was doing in the E2E… Wowsa.. what an absolute star ⭐️ I’m so proud of you 🥰
      I’d been led to believe that this wasn’t a great place to stay and looked more like a village that had been bombed and abandoned… to be fair it kind of does, but it’s now been rebuilt amongst the original buildings and I’ve really enjoyed my stay here… helped by the lady offering to do my laundry!! I could have hugged her!!
      I will never again take for granted, or think using a washing machine is a chore…..
      Read more

    • Day 27

      Day 27

      September 19, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

      Today is the first day I’ve started with my warm coat on!!
      It was an absolutely gorgeous morning with an equally gorgeous sunrise.. I apologise for a possible overload of sunrise sky pictures..
      It was a surprisingly fabulous ( those of you who know, know how much I hate and am rubbish going downhill ) walk today, even if over 3 1/2 hours of it was over pretty tricky steep downhill!!
      It was just fabulous first thing on the final 3km climb to the top, and if there was a moment of feeling at one with everything, it was then.. an unexpected, but amazing moment.. enough said!!!
      Yes!!! The downhill was steep in places, very stony and tricky in places, but . I loved it,. and my knees were fine..also probably the first time ever I’ve been going downhill for hour’s overtaking people rather than being overtaken 😂
      I did meet one poor guy on a mountain bike.. well, on the ground, twice!! I think he had more trouble with the descent than me😳
      I’m still trying to get used to everything and everywhere being closed from 14.30 - 17.30 on the days I don’t need a Nana nap!!
      My accommodation was easily found and is fab.. possibly time to go for a beer now before dinner..
      Read more

    • Astorga to Foncebadon

      September 24, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

      We loved the walk today because it was not flat and we could use different muscles. Foncebadon is a no-stop-sign town, last stop on the way to the famous Cruz de Hiero. BUT it has an amazing Pizza Parlor! We are staying at La Posada del Druida, which means something like a the resting place of the wizard. We have a big downhill tomorrow that everyone is warning us about. Ok… sleepy time!Read more

    • Day 36

      Astorga and Rabanal Del Camino

      October 5, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

      Day 31 in Astorga and Day 32 in Rabanal - it was a short walk to Astorga, 17 kms and then Rabanal, 20 kms. Astorga is a gem of a town. It’s a small town where locals of all ages gather in the town square to eat, drink and just generally hang out. I mostly sat in the square - plaza España and drank wine with Camino friends. I also visited the local cathedral which is quite imposing but doesn’t really compete with the cathedrals in Burgos and Leon.
      Today I arrived in Rabanal early afternoon. It is a beautiful town - everything is made of stone - house walls, the roads, fences etc. After lunch I went for a wonderful ‘deep tissue’ massage that totally relaxed me and relived the knee aches. In the evening I went to hear Gregorian chants in the local church and then a really good pilgrim dinner with friends. The next few days are supposed to be more challenging. Tomorrow there is a very steep descent in the last 10 kms - about 3,500’. My knees are going to take a beating.
      I could get used to this life - wake up early, pack my 5 things into my back pack, walk many kms, arrive and check into Albergue, shower, wash clothes, eat, drink wine, meet up with friends, sight see, and go to sleep. Repeat the next day.
      Read more

    • Day 37

      Molinaseca

      October 6, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

      Day 33 - I made it to Molinaseca! It was only 25 kms but there was a major descent in the last 10 kms that rattled my knees. This was after a climb of about 2,000’ through some beautiful mountain terrain and beautiful villages. While I had liked walking through the plains (the meseta) I was surprised at how happy I was to be back on the mountains. I walked with Dr. Steve - the ER doctor who grows his own turmeric and ginger and makes his own potents using natural ingredients, including some special mushrooms. We stopped for a wonderful breakfast of fried eggs, toast, fresh orange juice and coffee - normally if you stop at a cafe in the morning you just get coffee with tortillas which are made with more potatoes than eggs along with bread. Cruz de Ferro is the highest point in this mountain pass and many people bring a rock from home that they leave here. It signifies the release of some load or emotion. Since I don’t have either 😜, I just shot a photo of Steve depositing the rock his father gave him many years ago.
      Dr Steve admitted to me today that he has on 3 occasions used ibuprofen to reduce inflammation. So guess what? I’m going to have 2 Advils today so that my knees are ready for the 32 km hike to Villafranca tomorrow!
      This evening I sat and calculated how many days I need to complete the journey to Santiago and realized that if I follow the traditional stages, I only have another 9 days to Santiago. After that I have 2 weeks to hang out in Santiago and make the trek to Finisterre and Muxia. The last couple of hundred kms have gone by fast!
      Read more

    • Murias de Rechivaldo to Foncebadón

      October 12, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

      A 22km day with a sting at the end, in the form of a steep climb. We ended the day 570 meters higher than where we started.

      We left Ingo’s Hostería Casa Flor as the dawn broke after a good breakfast. There were clear skies with cloud over the hills we were walking towards.

      It was about 5km on a wide dirt path through slightly undulating scrubby country to a coffee stop at Santa Catalina de Somoza. There we met the couple from Cape Cod, Massachusetts. They last saw us in Calcadilla de la Cueza, when John had difficulties and took a taxi to Ledigos. They were glad to see us still in walking condition. By now it was very cloudy but the weather forecast promised no rain.

      From there it was a gradually steepening climb to Rabanal where we each refueled with a bowl of spaghetti bolognese. As we arrived there the skies cleared again and conditions from them on were clear and cool.

      Many pilgrims were staying in Rabanal. It’s a very pretty town stretched out along a fairly steeply inclined Camino.

      Our destination was 6km further on. It was a tough climb, getting steeper as we went and the path was rock strewn and hard to walk on in places. The landscape was sort of alpine scrub, none of it farmed.

      We raised quite a sweat and had to stop and catch our breath a few times..

      We were glad to check into Albergue El Trasgu de Foncebadón, get showered and have a cleansing radler out the back with a great view down towards Astorga.

      It seems a trasgu is Celtic Spain’s version of Ireland’s leprechaun.

      While sunning ourselves out the back we also tried a bottle of sidra natural. They provided 2 glasses and a device for adding bubbles to the cider as it exits the bottle. Interesting it was.

      Our room has a window in the ceiling. Convenient for drying our delicate-yet-tough Darn Tough merino hiking socks.

      The restaurant here looks good so we will dine in-house.

      Glad we stayed here instead of back at Rabanal. We may get good sunrise views tomorrow from the top of this range not far above us now.
      Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Foncebadón, Foncebadon, 24722

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