Spain
Friol

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    • Day 17

      The long way to Friol

      September 22, 2021 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      Since the Camino Primitivo joins up with the Frances in a few days, many pilgrims look for alternative routes to keep them off the Frances and its crowds while still getting them closer to Santiago. The Camiño Verde is one of those, end it goes over to Sobrado de los Monxes,, where it joins the Camino Del Norte.

      I have the GPS tracks, so what could go wrong, right? The first thing that happened was that I didn’t turn the track on and missed the turn off. So I found myself still on the Primitivo. That was actually quite all right, because I wanted to go to see a third century Roman crypt or bathhouse or sanitarium (no one knows exactly what it is), and it is accessible from either the Primitivo or the Verde. It was nice, because I walked with a couple of people I had met before.

      Santa Eulalia is an amazing site, with unrestored paintings of all different sorts of birds and floral motifs on the walls. Really wonderful.

      Taking my GPS tracks for the Camiño Verde, I followed them quite well till they took me off the road and into a grassy field where no real track was visible. To make things more interesting, a big German Shepherd started running towards me and barking. So I quickly backtracked and went out onto the road. Taking the road rather than this track would add about 6 km to the day, but I did not fancy encounters with dogs and overgrown tracks. As I started forward on the road, which Google Maps showed would take me into Friol, two more huge dogs started bounding towards me. I turned around and saw a shepherd, obviously the owner of the first dog, with his goats. I went up and asked him about how to best get to Friol, and he told me the path was not in very good condition. Lots of overgrowth, some sharp descents. I quickly made up my mind to do the roundabout road route. And luckily those other dogs belonged to an elderly couple out on a walk.

      I hadn’t exactly counted on 30 km of road walking, but I’m here and in good shape and really loved that Roman/pagan building.
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    • Day 19

      Friol - about 29kms

      October 8, 2016 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

      We dithered a lot this morning about which route to take. We initially decided to stay on the Camino Primitivo and walk about 20kms to San Roman .... but then the green arrows of the Camino Verde were so very tempting.

      In the end, we did what every responsible pilgrim would do - we tossed a coin. The Camino Verde was the winner, so we went off-piste for a 2-day walk that will connect us with the Camino del Norte tomorrow.

      We expected a 24km walk, but it turned out to be a lot more. The route markings were unclear in places, meaning a few little detours. All part of the fun!
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    • Day 29

      Team Camino

      October 2, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      My backup team arrived on Sunday: Janet, Seikah, and Chris. We met in Lugo, had just a little trouble finding each other but a happy ending. We had a great apartment to stay in and had fun exploring Lugo. The next day they started right out with a 20 km walk to San Roman. It was fairly hot and sunny, so we were tired when we arrived, but had a good day. Seikah's ankle and knee are bothering her a little so the second day she used a pack-transport service which helped a lot. Today we walked 14 km, are staying at a nice hostel which is in the middle of nowhere, so we're running a little low on food supplies but certainly in no danger of starvation. We also have to walk 7 k tomorrow before coffee, which is equivalent to Shackleton's hardships in my view 🙂 . Tomorrow night we will be in Melide, where the Primitivo meets the Frances route,so we will be catapulted into great throngs of people, going from hostels that have 25 beds to ones that have 150 beds. Should be sunny and warm for us, maybe a little cooler, the rest of the week.Read more

    • Day 41

      In A Roxica

      June 26, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      I don't want to alarm my family and friends (I am FINE and unharmed) but it was not a pleasant morning.

      This morning I left the Albergue around 7, about ten minutes after a single Spanish peregrina left. The camino goes along the national highway N-6 for about two km and then turns left into a wooded area where there is an old church. I was about 5 minutes before that turn-off when I saw the Spanish woman running back towards me. She was crying hysterically. A masked man had pointed a gun at her and told her to get down on the ground. She offered him all her money but he repeated the threat. She took off her mochila and threw it on the ground and took off running. She runs marathons so she knew she could outrun him, and she thought to herself-- he's not going to shoot me in the back. Luckily she was right.

      I was with her and the police for a while. The Guardia Civil is involved and she will file a denuncia. When we got back to the point where it happened, her backpack was right where she dropped it and untouched. She is lucky but I'm sure it will take a while to get over.

      I walked for the next few hours with several pilgrims who came up while we were with the police. But they stopped for the day way too early for me, so I went on by myself. I think it's like what people say about falling off a horse, you just have to get up and do it again. I did feel a little nervous but realize that's not rational. By the end of the walk I was feeling more confident and able to focus again on my aching tired feet. Though it's easy to fall into panic or fear, I keep telling myself that the rational response is that this is one of a miniscule number of bad incidents on the Camino, and that I am surely safer walking alone in Spain than I am walking alone in many places I frequent. Hopefully, I will get back into the swing of walking alone and loving it.
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    • Day 22

      Tag 17 immer geradeaus

      June 3, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      Wir beschließen heute doch die längere Etappe zu nehmen. Morgen soll es regnen. In der Herberge angerufen, klein, 10 Schlafplätze, 2 Betten sind noch frei.... gebucht. Es geht immer geradeaus und nimmt kein Ende. Wo zur Hölle.... wir treffen Gwen und Diana, die irgendwie laufen und dann mit dem Taxi wieder ins Hotel fahren. Und Kai aus Berlin, der für den Camino aus dem Alltag ausgestiegen ist und am Samstag in Urlaub fährt. Oder so.... Heute sind wir platt.Read more

    • Day 25

      Tinto de verano.....

      September 30, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

      Last night was a very gezellige night. We are in a small albergue in A Roxica, which holds 12 people max. And ofcourse, in the middle of nowhere, so the hospitalera cooks for us. We were 10 at the table, 4 spanish, 3 dutch, 2 german and 1 french. It got pretty loud, extra bottles of wine were ordered ....... It was fun.....
      Needless to say....... It was also en extra snoring fest ..... I think half of the room was snoring! I will surely not miss that part of the camino!

      Yesterday was a very nice walk, but also quite long, 26 km. I want to do the same today, and will probably separate half way from Hugo and Yolanda, who I have been walking with the past few days. They want to be in Santiago on Tuesday, so a bit slower.

      We will see what the day brings. Happy weekend to all 😘
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    • Day 75

      Day 74: San Roman d Retorta - As Seixas

      October 26, 2016 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      Distance: 15.1 (1801.7/66.5)
      Weather: 24C, bright and sunny
      Mood: Fine, bit of a headache though
      Staying at: As Seixas Pilgrims Hostel

      Is it bad that I long so much for my arrival in Santiago? The days have started to be so much alike and I notice that many of my thoughts are connected to arriving in Santiago, being reunited with Marc, the walk we have planned for after (Muxia, then Fisterra) and maybe most of all picking up my real life when I get back to the Netherlands .
      I seem to be one of the few people who is looking forward to the end so much. And it's not that I dislike the walking or hate the hostels and lack of real towels. I have found my peace in the routine, but I crave for the next chapter, the start of my new life... The typical Aries who gets bored with one thing well before it's over....
      In the past few weeks of my zen state of mind I was able to just be in the moment and I even started to detach from the regular checking of my phone (not for contact from the outside world, but just maps, how far to go etc.), but now my mind is insistent to take me out of the moment and dream of everything in and after Santiago. It doesn't help that I've been having a pretty consistent headache for the past few days... The camino had taught me that mind and body are so connected and when the body is not in optimal form the walking becomes mentally more challenging.
      Is it bad that I long for the end...? I don't know. I think it's just how it is and it's not long now 😀
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    • Day 11

      Ponte Ferreira (ca 244,7km)

      April 10, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 4 °C

      Schweren Herzens verließen wir Lugo und machten uns auf den Weg nach Ponte Ferreira. Seit Lugo sind auch deutlich mehr Pilger auf der Strecke, was auch daran liegt, dass die letzten 100km mindestens erledigt werden müssen, um eine Credencial, ein Zeugnis über das erfolgreiche Absolvieren des Jakobsweges, erhalten zu können.

      Dadurch, dass wir uns vormittags noch lange in Lugo aufhielten, dauerte die Strecke, obwohl wenig anspruchsvoll, noch recht lange und am Ende merkten wir auch unsere Füsse wieder extrem. Gleichzeitig war das Wetter wieder sehr wechselhaft mit einem leider sehr hohen Anteil an Regen. Am Ende kamen wir in einer schönen Herberge in Ponte Ferreira unter. Am Paeillia Essen beteiligen wir uns dann nicht mehr, da die Füsse etwas Schonung brauchten. Morgen dann glücklicherweise nur 20km nach Melide!
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    • Day 26

      Camino Del Norte - Day 25

      July 4, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

      Camino Del Norte - Day 25

      Baamonde to A Roxica
      Distance 25km (6 hours)
      Ascent 150m

      Baamonde was a very small village that depends heavily on the Camino. The Albergue was modern and spacious as it is on the 100km mark to Santiago. This is the minimum distance, a pilgrim must walk to receive a compostela.
      Thankfully, the nearby restaurant served early dinner so I was in bed before 8.30pm.
      I set off alone this morning at 5.45am. Claudia was already ahead of me by 30 mins. It was still very dark but cool. It was easy to follow the Camino markers. After walking on the road for 45 mins, I found myself in very dark woods. I feel really strong and my feet are in good condition.
      After 14km, I caught up with Claudia and we stopped for breakfast. I had bought bread, cheese and a tomato the night before. Breakfast was quickly devoured and we were on our way. As we set off, I realised that I had dropped my guide book somewhere on the Camino this morning.
      Claudia and I stopped a short time for coffee in Miraz. We were joined by our French peregrinos who FOUND my guidebook. There was much celebrations.
      The scenery was stunning and the walking was a pleasure. We were joined by a Russian pilgrim and chatted as we walked along. The heat slowly built up to 30C.
      By noon, we arrived at our tiny Albergue in A Roxica. It is a small farmstead with a population of three. Thankfully, I rang ahead and booked us beds for the night as it was full. The Albergue is fantastic, very modern and perfectly suited to pilgrims.
      Admin done, it is a case of staying out of the fierce heat, avoiding the flies and relaxing before a communal dinner.

      Tomorrow is another easy 25km. I have booked a hotel in Santiago for three days with a private bathroom......bliss 😎

      I have included some pictures of the Baamonde Albergue, wildlife encountered and general pictures on the Camino....enjoy.
      Thank you all again for amazing support and donations to B.I.R.D
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    • Day 16

      Today's Gratitude Moment

      July 14, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      Starbucks coffee to rescue you from a night of no sleep in a 10 bunk bed hostel - more akin to a geriatric ward or infirmary than to a group of adventurous world travelers or mindful spiritual seekers. I know I can’t use one data point to apply to the whole of the Camino Pilgrim culture - but this last 12 hours was a surreal experience that I can honestly say once was enough. 😊Read more

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