Espanja
Grañón

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    • Päivä 8

      8. DAY | 23 km

      6. toukokuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      Wie im Traum...

      Heute bin ich meinen Weg gestartet, indem auf der einen Seite der Mond untergegangen ist und auf der anderen Seite die Sonne aufgegangen ist. Während dem Tag versuche ich alle Ereignisse aufzufangen und bei zu behalten bis ich meine Tagebucheinträge mache. Ich muss nun feststellen, dass es unmöglich ist. Vor dem Camino bat ich um simple Erkenntnisse, Begegnungen und Wunder und gefühlt passieren hier zuviel Dinge die ich nicht festhalten kann. Somit würde ich einfach sagen, dass ich heute das letzte Ereignis mit euch teile: Als ich heute in Grañón angekommen bin in einer wunderschönen Unterkunft, entschied ich mich nach der Dusche zurück zur ersten Bar zu laufen die mich Wort wörtlich zu sich zog. Dort lernte ich Javier kennen den Inhaber. Die Stunden sind wie im Zug vergangen wir redeten soviel, er gab mir dann noch ein Fruchtsaft und Vino aus und machte mir Toast. Ein Satz von vielen ist tatsächlich hängen geblieben: "Elli du machst nicht den Camino, der Camino macht dich". Ich schenkte ihm ein Schmetterling und er brachte es sofort an eine Erinnerungswand an. Keine meiner Reisen hatte bisher soviel Intensität wie der Jakobsweg.

      Ich denke immer an euch!

      Elli

      Come un sogno...

      Oggi ho iniziato il mio viaggio con la luna che tramonta da un lato e il sole che sorge dall'altro. Durante la giornata cerco di cogliere e conservare tutti gli eventi fino a quando non scrivo il mio diario. Ora devo rendermi conto che è impossibile. Prima del Cammino ho chiesto semplici intuizioni, incontri e miracoli e mi sembra che qui accadano troppe cose che non riesco a cogliere. Perciò mi limito a dire che oggi condivido con voi l'ultimo evento: Quando oggi sono arrivata a Grañón in un bellissimo alloggio, ho deciso di tornare a piedi dopo la doccia al primo bar che mi ha letteralmente attirato. Lì ho incontrato Javier, il proprietario. Le ore sono passate come un treno, abbiamo parlato tanto, poi mi ha offerto un succo di frutta e del vino e mi ha fatto un Toast. Una frase tra le tante mi è rimasta impressa: "Elli non sei tu che fai il Camino, è il Camino che fa te". Gli ho regalato una farfalla e lui l'ha subito appesa al muro dei ricordi. Nessuno dei miei viaggi è stato così intenso finora come il Cammino.

      Vi penso sempre!

      Elli
      Lue lisää

    • Päivä 9

      Day 6: Najera to Granon. 28.5 km

      6. syyskuuta 2024, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      Another long day to follow up the two previous 28 km days. Our bodies are just holding up. We’re stiff and sore at days end; I’ve got a throbbing right knee from past patella tendon issues that I’m nursing and the blister by my left big toe is finally healing. No discomfort there, which is great.

      The scenery remains pretty static - vineyards, fields of sunflowers, plowed fields and small villages, with the church at centre on hills. These villages can be a grunt to get to - especially after walking in heat for 6+ hours.

      What’s not changing are the pilgrims on the trail. There are alot of them. We wake up and think who’s bumping into us, what discussions will be had, on today’s 25+ km walk…

      Up there today was the American, apple pie mom living in a 7 member blended family in Cincinnati. Let’s call her Kate. Kate’s first husband became paranoid, controlling and threatening towards during their separation. It gets ugly for Kate. He began telling his workmate that he wanted to be rid of his ex-wife. The workmate detects something strange is going on, becomes concerned and secretly informed the authorities.

      What next happens is that he the FBI do surveillance on her ex. They become really concerned. They ask the workmate to tell her ex that he knows someone to do the job and can arrange a meeting. The meeting goes ahead with an FBI undercover agent, her ex explains on camera that he wants his wife disposed of and hands over $8000. The FBI swoop and long and short is that he gets 10 years for aiding and abetting an attempted homicide. Kate reckons the whole process took three years off her life. She recalls the FBI swooping on her after school pick up and informing her of what’s happened with her ex.

      Kate then takes over the care of her three daughters, meets a new man who has four boys and she gives up her marketing work to be a full time regular American mom, coaching volleyball and doing pick up etc. This is how she presents today

      She now looks back and says that she thought she was more to him than the $8000 offered!

      Camino Moment: During today’s walk I got an email from our albergue to say they’ve overbooked. They’ve given us a welcome upgrade to an apartment: outdoor pool, clean sheets, real towels, washing machine etc. No two person cupboards with shower tonight! After a week on Camino, we need this lift.
      Lue lisää

    • Päivä 13–14

      Azofra to Grañón

      26. huhtikuuta 2024, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      Today was a bit mentally challenging for me (this is Kim). It started with the realization that I’d left my new rain poncho in the last place we stayed, followed by also discovering that I’d lost my favorite baseball hat somewhere along the way! Misplacing things isn’t a new thing for me, as all who know me can attest to, but every single item in my pack has been carefully chosen and has a specific & useful purpose. It just took the wind out my sails and I was feeling pretty down for the first portion of our hike. About 7 miles into our day, we came through a small town with a fully functional country club and golf pro shop. I can’t begin to describe how random it was in the middle of a semi-abandoned town. Sister to the rescue….Aimee insisted I go buy a new hat, and when I came out, she had a glass of wine and a chocolate napoleon waiting ❤️ It’s the little things that make a big difference out here.

      Our 22.5k (14 mile) day brought us to the most unique habitation yet at Albergue de peregrinos de San Juan Bautista in Grañón. The albergue is a donativo, which houses 40 pilgrims a night. Sleeping arrangements were a bit challenging—mats on the floor in the top floor of the monastery, but the communal dinner with a gathering of peregrinos from around the world 🌎 🕯️made it worth it.
      Lue lisää

    • Päivä 11

      feelin the heat en route to Belorado!

      20. huhtikuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 52 °F

      starting to feel the desert heat that I’ll be feeling more of in the coming second third of the Camino. today was still fun because I had very interesting talks w new friends, (despite getting lost and accidentally taking a +2.5mi detour) and because the albergue I’m staying in tonight has a pool !!!! 😁😁😁Lue lisää

    • Päivä 12

      Day 12: To Grañón

      23. toukokuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

      The vineyards have turned to grain. It was a beautiful hike today through multiple shades of green. Long trails into the horizon were dotted with pilgrims making their way to their next stop. I (only) did about 16 miles or 25 kilometers today but by 2:30 this afternoon my feet were done so I enjoyed a nice sandwich and vino tinto and called it a day. Later in the day I went to a Pilgrims blessing at the church. (I didn’t understand a word, but it was still impressive.) Speaking of language barriers, afterwards I enjoyed a nice pilgrims meal at the albergue. There were four French, two Polish, two Austrian’s, one Spaniard and me. Only one Austrian and one of the French women spoke some English and were able to translate enough for me to understand the various conversations. One of the most wonderful aspects of the Camino are all the wonderful people you meet from all around the world and at you truly do all have the same goal. And, although many speak English, I do wish I spoke another language or two.Lue lisää

    • Päivä 12

      One of the most special evenings.

      22. lokakuuta 2024, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

      There have been so many memories made already on this Camino. Tonight will forever be etched in my memory for so many reasons. I caught up Fiona from Ireland. After mass, I chatted with Bill and Luann from America , having not seen them in 5 or so days.
      It was a farewell to Eric and Karlin as I am walking twice as far as they are tomorrow. I will keep in touch, and maybe we will meet up again along the way.

      More than that though,it was a pretty amazing evening that really drove home the true magic of a Camino. 40+ individuals coming together sleeping in a church

      The churches on the camino vary so much. Many share a unique history and sense of place in their community. To spend the night at Albergue San Juan Bautista in Grañon is to experience one of the more original highlights of the camino. Housed in the 16th century church of San Juan Bautista, this is a “donativo” where no set tariff is in place, but the pilgrim offers up whatever they can afford.

      The first thing that struck me was the extreme contradiction after Santo domingo where there was a €9 charge to go into the church! Yet here is a church that opens its door to anyone. It is open 24hrs a day, and never turns anyone away. It asks only that you donate what you wish for staying there and the meal etc.

      Boots and poles are left strictly at the front door. The sleeping facilities are on different levels, but no beds… just floor mats.

      The evening meal was prepared by us pilgrims. We all chopped, cut, peeled and cooked. Our meal tonight was paid for our of the donations from last evening and so on. We ate a hearty meal of salad, tuna pasta, fresh bread, red wine, and fruit salad.

      It was so nice to share the experience with so many I already knew. Marco, Eleanora, Yana and Tana, Vinchenzo, Dana, Ollie, Lydia, Fiona, Karlin, Eric and so many more.

      Before we could eat, each country represented had to sing in their own language.... thankfully they ran out of time before everyone was tortured with either the dulcet tones of Australia or England

      After we ate, the dishes were all collected at one end of the table. Then large bowls of soapy water, and rinsing water, and with military precision we all washed dishes....oh did I say there was a soap sud fight? ( no prizes for guessing who started that one.)

      Dinner was followed by an evening reflection held in the candlelit upper church choir room. Here was a chance to get to know our walking comrades on a deeper level.  All were requested to participate and put voice to their camino experience. A pilgrims candle is passed around, and one by one we can either say what we are grateful for, what we wish to get from our Caminos, or we can peacefully sit with the candle for a moment. It is lovely that people all spoke in their native languages.

      Throughout the Camino we are given stamps in our credentials from each albergue...all except this one. Their philosophy is that the evening is stamped in our hearts instead. To seal the stamp we move around the room sharing hugs.

      Now it's a sleepless night in a room of 101 snorers!.
      Lue lisää

    • Päivä 13–17

      Santa Domingo to Bolarado

      12. lokakuuta 2024, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

      Well, it was 22 kilometers in the fog, rain, and poncho. There are not many pictures. At the end of the trip today, I sat down with Ken and Ed. Ken is from Australia and has been married 3 times, once to an Australian, then Japanese, and then Thailand. Food wise, he likes Thailand the most. Ed is from Toronto and has done 4 caminos. Look at the picture and guess who I who.Lue lisää

    • Päivä 4

      Redecilla del Camino - Belerado

      9. syyskuuta 2024, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

      The trail continues pretty much the same into Belorado long hot stretches along the busy N120 a new road is under construction that will take the traffic away from these small villages, after leaving Redecilla del Camino we passed through Viloria de la Rioja - Villamayor de Rio and then the final pathways into BeloradoLue lisää

    • Päivä 19

      Grañon from Cirueña

      15. kesäkuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

      I intended to take a detour but bumped into Kristen (we met in Pamplona) and I decided to walk with her instead. After a few days solo I'm craving company and hers is delightful.

      On that line of thinking, I stopped in Grañon because it has a famously social albergue that is all about a warm familial environment.

      ...and I immediately opted to sit in the shade of an umbrella on the plaza to read! Sometimes my own mind surprises me, but I guess I need a little me-time before the socializing. Okay, then.

      The tortilla here was delicious and watching the hubbub is always a pleasure.

      Before Grañón, strolled through Santo Domingo de la Cruzada and enjoyed a fantastic tour of the Cathedral. Their collection of treasures is remarkable. Some was truly beautiful.

      My favorite part of the Cathedral is the enclosure *in* the main part of the church that houses, I kid you not: a live hen and cock. They are white and they look pretty darn bored in their little chicken prison. I am told that they swap the poultry out weekly. I don't know what happens upon retirement.

      Ok, my *other* favorite part of the self-guided tour was finding a door that took us up into the battlements (defenses) it was like being a kid scrambling through secret passageways. Very fun.

      The walk was not particularly remarkable beyond Santo Domingo. It felt easy, not very much up/down and nearly all of it was decent quality gravel.
      Lue lisää

    • Päivä 19

      Hospital de Grañón

      15. kesäkuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

      Spending a night in a donation based, volunteer staffed hostel was a delightful contrast to the 4star experience of a few nights ago.

      I enjoy both, for very different reasons.

      Highlights include a family style dinner for about 40 people with pasta made by Italian cooks, salad made by Americans, a lentil/nettle stew made by Spaniards and French people, along with wine and bread. Conversation flowed in a mashup of European and hand-gestures and smiles.

      The Camino has a tradition of getting stamps in a "Credential": A paper passport. This Hospital (from the word hospitality) offers hugs instead... It had a distinctly sedate Burning Man feel to it in a nurturing inclusive way. The evening culminated in a candlelight ceremony in the choir section of the church (Cathedral? Big place for a town of 250 people) where we were seated in the hundreds-years-old choir stalls, sharing a bit of insight into our journeys. It was moving.

      I am glad that I stopped and feel richer for it.
      Lue lisää

    Saatat myös tuntea tämän kohteen näillä nimillä:

    Grañón, Granon, Գրանիոն, Граньон, 26259, Граньйон, 格拉尼翁

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