Spain
Hospital de Órbigo

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    • Day 36

      On the trail of Don Quixote

      October 17, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      Don Quixote is a 16th century Spanish Literary classic about a would be knight and his side kick Sancha. Hospital de Orbigo (which is a town, not a hospital) is the sort of town the mythical Quixote may have travelled to attend a jousting tournament. The jousting fields have been in use next to the long cobblestone bridge for centuries and tournaments are still held here in 2022.

      Legend has it Don Suero de Quiñones and nine other knights, his friends, defended the Hospital de Órbigo bridge for a month against any knight who wanted to cross it. The bridge witnessed up to 700 combats in which knights from all corners of the Peninsula, Germany, France or Portugal participated. The chronicles speak of a single deceased, a Catalan knight who received a spear to the eye. This was all a display put on for a king to win the hand of a woman and so the tradition of a jousting tournament here was born.

      The whole fairy tale was exactly that, with no written evidence of the event until at least 150 years later. Cervantes then immortalised the tales by referring to it in Don Quixote.

      Tonight I find myself in the cutest of accommodation with a comfy rocking chair and a nice hot shower, after a stroll through the rain this morning.

      "he who's down one day can be up the next, unless he really wants to stay in bed, that is..." Don Quixote
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    • Day 20

      Hospital de Orbigo

      July 20, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 90 °F

      We trekked 20 miles today- cooler weather, feet are little achy, good time to put them up and blog. A little background about Orbigo: in 1432 a woman snubbed a knight. In order for him to be released from his prison of love and restore his honor, he had to joust and break 300 lances, near the Orbigo bridge. He succeed in his task, his honor restored, (get over it, already), and the old Roman bridge still stands, today. Signs seen along the way, since the beginning of the Camino: Castilla is crossed off many signs, signifying Leon's desire for autonomy; cute gender neutral shower/ bathroom signs; art in the park; two who met their demise in the Pamplona, Running of the Bulls; an invitation to my quilting sisters; good rules for any household; mural outside of a school; outside pooping area instructions for humans, you dog owners know the drill 😂; Socrates was right- the second bar WAS better😁; Just check out the name of the second bar!; Isn't it a shame that the free parking is perpetually Full? Oh wait, Full is the name of the hardware store!; An example of how the Basque language is so different from Spanish. I'll SIGN off for now. Love to you all!Read more

    • Day 22

      The albergue of all albergues

      October 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      DOGGIES. HAMMOCKS. ACTUAL FABRIC SHEETS. 10 SORTS OF TEA. THE MOST ZEN-INDUCING YOGA. 6 HEAD SHOWERS. FIREPLACE. MOST DELISH FULLY VG BANQUET. Have actually peaked. Only down from here. Can bet the others who elected for the non veggie one down the road will never hear the end of what they missed out onRead more

    • Day 27

      Villadangos to Astorga

      September 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

      Left Villadagos for Astorga. 28 km's. Having hiked 33 km's the day before was very surprised that I was able to get 28 in today. After arriving we sat down for a quick lunch. After went straight to the Alberge and checked in. Washed some clothes and laid down. It was rained most of the evening, so there was no dinner. However a English chap, Jeffrey brought me back a cheeseburger. Gone in 30 seconds. Bedtime for me. Buen Camino. Haven't decided about tomorrow yet, but let me tell you I starting to think about Santiago for the first time. Beautiful countryside side today, nice place to lay my head tonight. Great day. Buen Camino.Read more

    • Day 35

      34. Etappe: Hospital Orbigo (36,5 km)

      November 30, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

      Ave Maria! Ab 6:30 in Endlosschleife! Das treibt selbst den gläubigsten Pilger vor 8 aus der Herberge! 😅
      So wars auch noch ordentlich dunkel als ich flüchtete und ich verfehlte doch das ein oder andere Mal den Weg in der Großststadt. Trotz ohnehin schon langer Etappe entschied ich mich dann doch für den 4 km längeren und ruhigerem Weg fernab der vielbefahrenen Landstraße und kehre in der einzig offenen Herberge La Encina in Hospital Orbigo ein. Einige andere Pilger sind hier auch untergekommen und wir freuen uns auf das Pilgermenü am Abend und das gemeinsame Fußbalgucken direkt in der Bar, die zur Herberge gehört. Ich hab heut Glück und muss mir mein Vierbettzimmer mit niemandem teilen und hab sogar ein eigens Bad 😊Read more

    • Day 34

      Hospital de Orbigo

      October 3, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

      Day 30 - Walked 35 kms today from Leon to the town of Hospital de Orbigo. It was a brutal walk - almost all the way on the sidewalk along a highway. My knees were shot by the time I reached this place. It was a warm afternoon and I was out of water. At the outskirts of town I fell upon the water fountain. Aaaahhh!
      Being me, I signed up for a ‘free’ historical guided tour of Hospital de Orbigo . This very cute 20 something explained the story of the knight who had to charge with his lance and break 300 lances of challengers in order to win his lady love. This event was staged on the bridge leading into town.
      The town is very pretty and I stayed in a cute Albergue. I met a humanitarian nurse, Brenda, who walked to Astorga with me.
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    • Day 27

      Day 26, Mazarife to Hospital de Orbigo

      June 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

      Today life really felt like a bowl of cherries! Or a hatful - picked by our fellow pilgrims in the garden of our lovely albergue. On the Camino people are always saying it’s about the journey, not the destination. However, today it really was the destination which made this day so very special.
      We arrived at our albergue and were greeted with a cup of delicious herbal tea (the herbs grown in the garden). Lunch involved a lot of ladder-climbing in pursuit of the ripest cherries and was a social, happy affair. Fiona and I had bought gazpacho and were eating it when our fellow pilgrims joined us, shared our crisps and provided hatfuls of cherries.
      Later in the afternoon a fellow guest led an hour- long yoga session (with a little help from Fiona). And before dinner we were treated to a ‘sound bath’ held in honour of the founder of the albergue who died a year ago tomorrow. It’s hard to describe what this was - we lay on the floor while someone played Tibetan sound bowls. It may sound strange but it was deeply serene and meditative and felt like another significant spiritual moment on this pilgrimage. Afterwards, he offered to play the bowls on Fiona. I know this sounds stranger still, but a few of us volunteered to experience it too and it was really affecting to feel the music resonate through you.
      Next up was the most wonderful vegetarian meal in the garden polished off with cherry cake. One of the special things about this place is that it is a donativo - you only pay what you can afford for the food. The accommodation cost 13 euros. At the end of the meal the cook talked about the founder and how the three of them who worked with him had set up an association to continue his vision of looking after pilgrims after his death. She cried and was comforted by a lovely German woman called Ramona who had visited in 2016 and remembered him.

      Earlier in the day we had met Ramona, who we’d bumped into a couple of weeks ago and she said she’d had a couple of difficult days, had wanted to return to Albergue Verde today but they were full. When we arrived I asked if there might be a spare bed and they said they had one bed left so I sent her a WhatsApp and reserved it for her. She was delighted and very sweetly, said that we had been her Camino gift today. It was nothing at our end but very satisfying to have helped make someone happy.
      Another bonus today was being introduced to Nick, a vegan chef from Hove, who is helping out here. He shared a vegetarian map of the Camino which has set us trying to book up vegetarian places for the days we still need bookings for.
      Oh, and I have successfully walked without taping up my toes. I took the risk this morning of wearing a new pair of socks or, should I say, gloves for the feet.
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    • Day 4

      Hospita Orbigo nach Astorga

      September 27, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

      Nach einer guten Nacht geht es heute weiter bis nach Astorga. Im Vergleich zu gestern stehen allerdings nicht 31 KM, sondern lediglich 18 KM mit rund 250 Höhenmetern auf dem Programm. Wir wählen wieder den Weg fernab der Autostraße. Wir treffen zahlreiche Pilger aus vielen Ländern und Kontinenten. Es ist ein fröhliches Hallo verbunden mit dem Wunsch "Buen Camino". Auch auf dieser Etappe können wir uns wieder mit Früchten vom Wegesrand stärken. Überrascht werden wir von einem von Pilgern für Pilger organisierten Picknick. Es gibt Früchte, Wurst, Käse, Getränke, Kuchen, Eier und noch vieles mehr. Gegen eine kleine Spende kann sich hier jeder bedienen. Die Atmosphäre ist herzlich und es bahnen sich interessante Gespräche zwischen den Pilgern an. Das letzte Stück nach Astorga gesellt sich ein Holländer zu uns. Wir gehen dieses Teilstück gemeinsam, tauschen unserer bisherigen Erfahrungen sowie Erwartungen an den Weg aus. Ich schätze diese - wenn auch nur kurzen - Begegnungen mit anderen Pilgern sehr.

      Astorga ist eine kleine sehenswerte Stadt am Rande der Berge von León. Sie ist eine der ältesten Städte der Region, die während der Herrschaft der Römer auf der iberischen Halbinsel als Asturica Augusta bekannt war. Zu dieser Zeit war Astorga der nördlichste Endpunkt der römischen Straße Via de la Plata, die von Mérida im Süden nach Astorga führte und deren gesamte Wegstrecke von 470 KM gepflastert war. Auch wir nutzen auf unserem heutigen Weg ein Teilstück dieser alten Römerstraße und spüren so ein bisschen den Hauch der Geschichte. Unsere Straßenbauer sollten sich einmal ein Beispiel nehmen an der Nachhaltigkeit des damaligen Straßenbaus.

      Unser Hotel liegt in Sichtweite zum Palacio Episcopal (Bischofspalast). Er wurde nach den Plänen des Katalanen Antoni Gaudi errichtet und beherbergt heute das Museo de los Caminos mit Ausstellungsstücken zur Geschichte des Jakobswegs. Morgen geht es weiter nach Foncebadón. Mal sehen, was uns auf diesem Weg erwartet.
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    • Day 19

      Tag 18: León - Hospital de Óbrigo

      March 9 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

      Nach dem gestrigen Pausentag war ich heute wieder deutlich fitter. Sowohl mein Knie als auch meine Achillessehne fühlten sich normal an und so startete ich, gemeinsam mit Mike (UK) und Andreas (GER), um 6:30 Uhr in León. Andreas ist Tischler aus Berlin und läuft seit 2 Tagen mit uns.

      Eigentlich hatte ich mit den beiden abgesprochen, ab León mein eigenes „Tempo“ zu gehen, also mehr Km/Tag, als in den letzten Wochen. Die Entscheidung war Konsequenz eines seit Tagen in mir wachsenden Gefühls, mal wieder länger für mich allein sein zu wollen.
      Doch am Morgen waren Mike und Andreas „zufällig“ um die gleiche Uhrzeit wie ich startklar, obwohl ich früher als sonst aufbrechen wollte.
      So liefen wir die ersten Kilometer zusammen, auch wenn ich am liebsten alleine gelaufen wäre. Trotzdem war die Gemeinschaft der beiden nett und wir kehrten nach den ersten 20 km in einer Herberge für jeweils zwei wärmende Kaffees ein… Man, waren wir durchgefroren!

      Der Weg führte heute hauptsächlich an und auf einer wenig befahrenen Landstraße entlang. Da hatte der Wind leichtes Spiel mit uns, der Kopf dadurch eher weniger.
      Als Motivationsanker wurde für mich heute das Bergpanorama am Horizont, was uns mit seinen schneebedeckten Gipfeln schon mal einen Gruß sendete. Denn in 1-2 Tagen geht es hoch in die Berge, da freue ich mich schon wahnsinnig drauf!

      Nach insgesamt 36 km erreichten wir dann die ‚Puente de Óbrigo‘, die für mich schönste Brücke auf dem Jakobsweg! Wahnsinn, was die Römer überall in Europa gebaut haben…
      Was mich an diesem Bauwerk so fasziniert hat; die Brücke bestimmt 200m lang. Sie mündet in eine alte Handelsstraße, auf der ich geradezu die Kutschen und Rittertuniere aus vergangenen Tagen hören konnte…

      In der danebenliegenden Herberge trafen wir Simone (ITA) wieder - was eine Freude! Gemeinsam freuen wir uns jetzt auf das Pilgermahl!
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    • Day 45

      Hospital de Órbigo - quiet and eventful!

      May 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

      Today was travel day to Hospital de Órbigo, and bus booked for 3.45, so we spent the morning having last walks round León, and left the bags for transfer. That was a bit of a kerfuffle as they knew we were making our own way here, and we weren’t on the transfer list…but our vouchers said transfer and they sorted it out and delivered them…good for us, as otherwise we would have had to lug them to the bus station in León, and as it turned out, to our hotel at this end! Anyway, that’s a boring aside, but we had a quiet morning in León, still lovely weather but cold - maxed at about 16°, and quite a breeze, making it even colder…I wore all my layers, and Amr has taken over my down jacket - he hadn’t anticipated these temperatures!

      A funny thing happened when we were sitting in the plaza outside the Gaudi house in León…we were sitting in the seat, which has a statue of Gaudi sitting there, and we were beside him. Well, an Italian group with a guide suddenly surrounded us, and we realised they wanted photos (but not with us in them!) so of course we moved with our backpacks etc - by now we were checked out of the hotel - and the guide was very grateful and we were presented as peregrinos, and asked how far we walked each day, and from Australia was a great hit…we were celebrities for a minute…fun…and I found I could understand the Italian guide talking about León and the camino so much better than the Spanish guide of yesterday…my Spanish has gone so fluffy..

      We had lunch at a bar we had sighted, and it was excellent..Amr had morcilla - blood sausage mixture, a specialty of León, and I had equivalent of sashimi cod on orange and some magic sauce, both on toast and both magnificent…Amr helped me with mine, still having small amounts.

      Anyway, we set off to the bus station - it is in a state of renovation which we knew from arrival, bit chaotic, but we got our bus on time, about half an hour to here. This was walking that Amr was missing, but actually quite boring, especially leaving León through endless industrial areas and suburbs, then even the countryside was not cultivated much or interesting, so I didn’t feel too bad. Tomorrow he will stride out and can have his full dose of exercise!!

      The bus driver knew we were going to Hospital de Órbigo (not its final destination) and when he said this was our stop we got out in bewilderment! Walking in we have always come from the countryside and walked over the very long bridge to our hotel - on the camino. We found ourselves in a village, rather desolate, no sign of river or bridge…Amr turned on Google and we found it was a fairly short walk to the hotel, so we followed directions, through little streets, all shuttered, very little sign of life, till it said your hotel is very close, and there it was - we approached from the opposite direction - the bridge isn’t a vehicle bridge - and at first we’re totally disoriented…but there was the bridge, and we settled in, our bags were here! Phew.

      We had a walk over the bridge, just for the sake of it , and a bit of a wander, but this town has nothing really to offer sightseeing wise, so we are now showered, done our washing and relaxing in the bar - Amr with a vino Tinto, and I have a “limonada” which looks and tastes like sangria! Dinner in about half an hour.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Hospital de Órbigo, Hospital de Orbigo

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