Spagna
Ledigos

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    • Giorno 22

      Day 19 - Feelin’ hot, hot, hot

      4 ottobre 2022, Spagna ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

      “An early-morning walk is a blessing for the whole day.” – Henry David Thoreau

      Day 19 - Carrión de Los Condes to Ledigos - 23.4 km - approx 6.5 hrs

      So excited to be walking with Nancy and family again today. We all have pretty much the same pace - except Louie who often runs ahead. Yes, runs. Guess that’s a bit easier when you are 16, rather than 57!

      From Carrión de Los Condes, it was a 17.3 km trek to Calzadilla de la Cueza and then a further 6.1 km to our destination in Ledigos. As the day was going to get hot we left in the dark at 7am to get a jump on the day.

      After we were out of the town, I was able to put my new headlamp to good use, for another hour or so. The trail was easy walking and the company made the kms go quickly. We stopped for 10 mins at a little lay-by that was created for pilgrims, and sat first with Carolyn who was in front of us, and then Jenny, who had been behind us. As we were ready to leave, along comes Linda! It was good to see her as I have not seen her for over a week. As we started off again, we came to a food truck about 5 minutes further on, at the 7km mark. It was now light but still chilly and we stopped for breakfast and a hot drink. Linda joined us for a while, but started off before us, on the way to Calzadilla de la Cueza. We passed her shortly after leaving and I haven’t seen her since. I’ve actually been a bit worried about her and hope she’s doing ok.

      Still another 10km to go, on the never-ending road. Seriously, the view did not change one iota until just before Calzadilla de Los Cueza, when there was a slight rise, then the town was laid out before us. Carolyn, Jenny and Linda were all staying in town but we were still continuing to Ledigos. We stopped for at least an hour at the local bar in Calzadilla, for cold drinks. Much needed as the heat was getting really intense in the last 3km and we were all parched. While there, I ran Into Bill and Rip from day 2. I had also seen them in town last night as they were scoping out food options.

      It was a true struggle to get moving again as it was now around 1:30 pm and the heat was still intense. The thought of another 6+ km was not appealing in the least. But, we got our packs on and hit the road. Zig zagging through town as we followed the arrows. Pretty sure they just wanted to take up past every bar in town… as they do.

      The trail to Ledigos was not as nice as the previous 17+km. Lots of stones and potential ankle twist opportunities, but we managed it. Nancy started having some issues and had a couple of stops to add some wool cushioning. I was getting a bit of heel burn but it was easy enough to walk through. Ankle was doing ok, so we pushed ahead. My walking companions were great company today. If not for them, I likely would have taxied those last 7 km lol! As it was, we made it to town just after 3pm and I am a little in love with the Albergue!! Great location, covered patio and awesome private beds in the dorm. Real sheets, chocolate on the bed and a bottle of water! Beds are lovely individual bunks with privacy screens. Hope it’s going to be a good night.

      Rest of the afternoon was spent chilling on the patio with a bottle of Rosada and the lovely company of Nancy,Dave and Louie, again! I remembered that heel burn I had experienced, and checked my foot. I have my first Camino blister!! I feel like a real pilgrim now LOL!

      The pilgrims dinner choices were not anything I was prepared to eat hahaha. Stewed vegetables or lentils with mushrooms as the starter. No thank you. And Beef stew or fried sardines for the main. Uuummmm, big no to both. Melon or rice pudding for dessert - sure as heck wasn’t having rice pudding either! Thankfully, I was able to get a carbonara pizza. Whew. Food bullet dodged!!! Until it arrived and it was covered in chopped mushrooms!! Oh Lord. I looked like a 3 year old, picking them all off!! I shared the pizza with Dave who got the short straw on his dinner serving. And just for the record, the lentil soup with mushrooms was fabulous (Nancy let me try hers).

      All in all, a great day. Lots of walking, but we covered it in really good time, so I am happy with that. Apparently, my pace was faster than what Nancy was used to - and here I was, thinking I was holding them back. I told Nancy she should lead tomorrow, and I will follow.
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    • Giorno 14

      Compostela

      30 luglio 2022, Spagna ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

      Santiago de Compostela derives its name from the myth that, all the way along the Way of St James, the Milky Way will lead you towards it.

      This is obviously incorrect, but for about two weeks in summer and in the Meseta it is as close to true as it can be.

      Last night I went outside to see the stars and let them guide me. Cell phone pictures do, of course, not do this justice, but with a magnificent sky above me, the galaxies of the Milky Way pointing West toward my goal, even I could and wanted to believe it.
      Leggi altro

    • Giorno 22

      The Walk of life...

      20 settembre 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

      Carrion - Terradillos de los Templarios
      Day 19 - 26km

      So far, we have wandered through amazing rolling hills and conjured up pictures of Julie Andrew's running down the valley singing 🎵
      The hills are alive 🎵
      We have wandered into Burgos, through the fashionable district, looking very much like the sweaty pilgrims which we were, and felt we fitted in like Crocodile Dundee as he walked the streets of New York...
      We have wondered into deserted towns, pictured the tumbleweed rolling before us and felt like we were in a westen movie and about to have a showdown with the sheriff...
      Today however, we felt like Forest Gump, who woke up one day and just went... and went and went on.... 🚶‍♂️🚶‍♂️🚶‍♂️🚶‍♂️🚶‍♂️🚶‍♂️🚶‍♂️
      We are in the Mesta, the land is barren...the road was looong ...🙄 The one saving grace was a coffee/food van in the middle of our day .
      Staying in a cool spot though and just had a lovely meal... and after a 31km day, a 29km day and a 26 km day in a row, we have just a measley, teeny weeny 23kms tomorrow 😌 🤣😳.
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    • Giorno 24

      Terradillos de los Templarios

      28 settembre 2022, Spagna ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

      Today we walked 16.7 miles on a cold, windy, straight road in the middle of nowhere Spain and loved every minute of it. We are in a great albergue tonight sharing a room with a father/son duo from Denmark. Their English is amazing and we just finished having dinner with them and had a wonderful conversation. They have warned us of their snoring and I have warned them of my coughing so maybe they are the perfect roommates?? Or, there may not be much sleeping tonight.

      All in all it was a great day walking on the Meseta.

      Buen Camino!!
      Leggi altro

    • Giorno 19

      Erappe 16 - Sahagún und El Burgo Ranero

      30 settembre 2022, Spagna ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

      Nach einer angenehmen Nacht in unserem Schlafsaal, gab es gegen 8 Uhr noch Frühstück.
      Der Weg begann, wie gestern beendet, sehr eintönig.
      Kaum Abwechslung in der Landschaft, staubige und sehr lange Wege an Feldrainen, als auch entlang von Straßen.
      Etappenziele haben heute bei mir keine Rolle gespielt. Mir ging es nur darum: raus aus dieser unspektakulären und eintönigen Landschaft.
      Gefreut habe ich mich auf Sahagún. Ich kann nicht sagen warum, aber es ist die Hälfte des Weges bis Santiago de Compostela.
      Um so mehr war ich von dieser Stadt enttäuscht. Viele kleinere Städte vorher haben mich mehr in ihren Bann gezogen als Sahagún. Ich wollte nur wieder weg. Manchmal ist es einfach so.
      In Sahagún habe ich mir in der Stadtinformation meine Halb-Compostela-Urkunde abgeholt. Die Gefühle, diese Urkunde in den Händen zu halten kann ich nicht beschreiben. Gefragt habe ich mich - wie soll das dann in Santiago de Compostela werden???
      Nach kurzem Aufenthalt ging es in der Eintönigkeit weiter Richtung Leon.
      Heute hat mir eine innere Stimme immer wieder gesagt - geh weiter, geh weiter.
      Bin so bis El Burgo Ranero gekommen.
      Hier ging die "Jagd" auf eine Unterkunft los.
      Hatte Glück und habe in einer privaten Alberque das letzte Bett bekommen.
      In der Herberge wohnen neben mir zwei Nürnberger. Durch sie bin ich noch in den Genuss eines Zimmers in Leon gekommen, leider erst ab Sonntag bis Dienstag. Deshalb kann ich die Etappe bis Leon gemächlich angehen.
      Diese 37 km teile ich mir auf zwei Tage auf. Heute waren es erneut ca. 45 km.
      Fazit des Tages: auch wenn es einmal trübe aussieht, kommt von irgendwo ein Lichtlein her.
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    • Giorno 20

      Carrión de los Condes to Terradillos de

      21 aprile, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

      262 miles done. 238 to go. 52%…I’m over half way!!

      16 miles walk today, so was a longer short walk today. Unfortunately in this season of the Camino, the Meseta, the scenery is quite bland. Just long grass, rapeseed (yellow flowing plant from my which canola oil is made from the seeds), and newly tilled dirt, everywhere. Nothing like the beginning of the Camino where at almost every peak, you gasp with taking in the beauty before you.

      Staying at the most rural of the alburgues I’ve stayed at thus far… it’s like a small farm just along the side of the road. But, I bought a bottle of their most expensive local rioja (12 €), and enjoyed it in the sun for 10 minutes (cause I just need a little color without getting burned) and then moved to the cooler shade.

      Had the pilgrims dinner full of carbs and then talk with Bryan before heading to bed. Night!
      Leggi altro

    • Giorno 16

      16. DAY | 25 km

      14 maggio 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      Wenn der Camino ruft, dann geh...

      Ich habe die letzten zwei Wochen immens viele Menschen kennengelernt und eines hatten wir alle gemeinsam: Der Camino hat uns gerufen. Wenn du dich für diesen Weg entschiedest, dann musst du es von ganzem Herzen wollen und bereit sein. Ich wusste schon immer, dass ich mental stärker bin als körperlich und dass macht es mir hier definitiv etwas einfacher, denn dass ist das was dich hier antreibt vorwärts bringt durchhalten lässt und unfassbar dankbar und glücklich macht. Mir hätte es nichts gebracht, hierfür zu trainieren viel mehr wandern zu gehen oder anderes, denn wenn dein Körper nicht mehr kann dann musst du von innen dagegen ankämpfen. Es ist fast Halbzeit es fehlen nur noch 25 km bis zur goldenen Mitte meines Wegs und ich kann aus voller Überzeugung sagen, dass ich hier sein muss. Es ist die schönste Reise meines Lebens, denn was hier passiert kann nur hier passieren.

      Elli

      Quando il Camino chiama, vai...

      Nelle ultime due settimane ho incontrato un numero immenso di persone e tutti avevamo una cosa in comune: il Camino ci ha chiamati. Se si sceglie di percorrere questo cammino, bisogna volerlo con tutto il cuore ed essere pronti. Ho sempre saputo di essere più forte mentalmente che fisicamente e questo mi rende sicuramente tutto cio più facile, perché è questo che ti spinge ad andare avanti. Sono incredibilmente grata e felice. Non mi sarebbe servito a nulla allenarmi per questo, tanto meno fare escursioni o altro, perché quando il tuo corpo non ce la fa più, devi combattere dall'interno. Sono quasi a metà strada, mancano solo 25 km a metta dell mio cammino e posso dire con piena convinzione che dovevo essere essatamente adesso qui. È il viaggio più bello della mia vita perché quello che succede qui può accadere solo qui.

      Elli
      Leggi altro

    • Giorno 21

      Day 20, Carrion to Terradilos

      12 giugno 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      Today’s walk wasn’t a favourite, to be honest. It was long (26.7 km) and less than wondrous. We walked for extended stretches without much visual stimulation - the sky was overcast and the flatlands on either side of the path somewhat monotonous. Though there are always the wildflowers and the birds.
      We left our lovely monastery hotel around 7am, keen to stock up on extra water because we knew the first opportunity to refill was 17kms away. Bizarrely, the cold tap in our room was spewing warm water this morning. We asked the guy at reception if he could provide us with cold water - but he filled our bladders with warm water too. We passed a drinking water tap on the road and it was hot too. I have no idea what was going on with the local water supply!
      7km in, we were delighted to see a van selling breakfast - in my case green tea, freshly squeezed orange juice and toast with olive oil and tomatoes. All delicious. Janice and Sheryl joined us. Day after day, we set off at different times from different accommodation yet always seem to reach the food stops within 10 minutes of each other. Fiona and I had two more stops before reaching Terradilos. 3km short of our destination, on our final stop, we met up again with Rachel who has been ahead of us but is sharing a 4 person dorm with us tonight. Each bed cost 13 euros so we’ve bought the fourth one to avoid having to share with a stranger. It still seems odd to me that you could end up sharing a room with a man you’ve never seen before. And there is always the fear of the loud and erratic snorer.
      The afternoon brought the usual thunder storm - just hope this pattern of morning sun interspersed with cloud followed by afternoon rainstorms continues for us. So far, it has allowed us to finish our walk just before the downpour.
      Tomorrow Fiona and Rachel are taking a different route from me - they’ve chosen to walk the old Roman road which is described as desolate but beautiful in my guidebook. Though that sounds wonderful, I’m going to take the more commonly walked Camino path because there are lots of warnings about how hard the Roman road is on the feet and I am, of course, rather feet-obsessed. Since we’ve got a long day whichever route we choose, I’d rather not risk the tougher one. It means that tomorrow night I will be staying on my own in a dormitory and going on to Leon ahead of Fiona on Wednesday. I feel quite nervous!
      And despite all my precautions a little blister has appeared between my toes. Not the worst place for a blister but I just don’t know how it got there. Ah well, must get the sewing kit out again, I suppose.
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    • Giorno 16

      Terradillos de los Templares

      16 luglio 2022, Spagna ⋅ ⛅ 93 °F

      Terradillos is a tiny farming community that is a great example of combining the old with the new: structure that is 100s of years old with a modern tractor parked next to it; ancient building made of beams, straw cob, and brick, with a modern structure built onto it, made of plaster with a corrugated metal roof. This ancient gate is the entrance to an ancient church, ( okay, those two match😄); the albergue we are staying at is a mix of the old and the renovated, although we have yet to stay in a place with air conditioning. Our walk today, 26k, was comfortable, although the last 2k always seems to stretch on forever! We arrived at 11:30am, after just under 6 hours of walking, and beat the heat. The thermometer on the side of a building registered 48C- really hot! Shared dinner with Jason from Scotland, who spent time on the Highlander series set. He talked about the props, people walking down streets in full costume, and the authenticity of the set. You would have loved it, Cyndee! Such interesting people on the Camino! Love to you all and Buenos noches.🥱Leggi altro

    • Giorno 19

      Day 19: Carrion a Terradillos

      18 maggio 2022, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

      This morning I managed to figure out how to set an alarm on my watch. Not that it mattered much, as pretty much my entire albergue had evacuated by 5.00 in the morning. I have to say, I awoke with a slightly grumpy disposition and I was feeling less than warm about my fellow humans. I walked out into the cold of the morning at 5.45, looking back for a small candlelight the nuns had promised to light as they prayed for the pilgrims. There it was, and onwards I went.

      The day ahead would be a challenge, with 17km of gravel sendas without any towns, stops or shade.

      As I left the town, I saw a small cafe open and ran inside. Delighted that something was open this early, I had a coffee and was out of the town by 6.00. I walked the first 10km alone, and then stopped when I spotted a caravan selling coffee (!) and I was delighted to have a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice. It was here that I met my German walking companion for the day, whose name I can’t remember (it was very different phonetically to anything I know). We would walk the rest of the day together. I learned he works for Facebook in Frankfurt, used to rap when he was younger and writes fantasy novels. He also just bought his first apartment and was walking the Camino to clear his mind and start a new chapter.

      He was walking with a slight limp, and he was using a long stick as a pole. I slowed my pace significantly to walk with him, but I was glad for the company. The rest of the day was completely flat and across the barren meseta. My friend struggled, but I felt relatively ok. The later the day went on the hotter it got, and I was glad to reach my bed for the day. Sadly, he did not reserve ahead and was turned away. I feel bad about this as I write this, as I so admire his spontaneity - but I find myself booking ahead anyway. Am I missing the point slightly? I hope to meet him again on the route, as we had much in common! But, and I am once again alone and glad for the break.

      There is absolutely nothing to this two horse town, so I shower and do some laundry. I then run into Jim, who has made it all this way today - despite the blisters. The albergue is small and there is no shop in this town, so we sit down to lunch together. He is such easy company, and he offers to buy my lunch. I absolutely refuse, and I get his instead.

      I end up going for dinner with Jim too! There is nothing to do in this town. We talk about his career in the police force and his work as an independent investigator. I am already stuffed, but what is there to do!

      Today I covered 27km, tomorrow another 25km!

      See you in the morning!
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