Spain
Logroño

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    • Day 10

      Day 8 Logrono Rest Day

      April 24 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

      Today is the only full rest day I have planned. Slept in a bit and went to a laundromat. Changed into my sarong in the bathroom there and washed every single thing I had with me. Very cold for 1.5 hours, but nobody blinked an eye and it’s glorious to have truly clean clothes again. Picked up an adapter and some saline and chores were done.

      Made the rounds of the major sites in the Casco Antigua. No celebrity status today, just another poorly dressed Americano in a fleece with socks and sandals.

      Had a late lunch / early dinner on Calle Laurel, a really cool street known for tapas and just good food overall. I was there early so it wasn’t crowded at all, but I guess it is packed in the evenings. Had a great meal of artichokes and octopus. American metal and hair bands are a big thing here - everyone was playing it and singing along. Generally hear older American music wherever I go now that I think of it.

      It’s 4 pm now and I’m hunkered down in my room with no plans other than to shower, pack, read a little for the first time this trip, and go to bed early. High mileage day tomorrow, and the point of today was to rest the body. Still did 5 miles for chores and a little sight-seeing.
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    • Day 17

      Logrono, La Rioja

      September 28, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      Whose stupid idea was it to walk 700+ km across Northern Spain by myself? The "I'm getting off the island" excitement has definitely worn off and the "It's a bloody long way to Santiago" reality has set in along with the "it would be much better if I'd brought someone with me to share the fun!"

      Of course, this was all to be expected and in reality the first few weeks have flown by. Most of my Pilgrim friends are days of weeks ahead of me by now but there will be new people to meet again this week.

      I've had my rest day in Logrono, capital of the La Rioja wine region. I did all the practical things like getting some new hiking sandals to try out on the trail, and some anti-inflammatory drugs in the hope that I can walk more than two days without needing a day off. And the laundry, I did that too.

      I also slept a lot. The body is adjusting both to walking and the opportunity for a siesta. The shops in Spain never seem to be open. Most are open from 10-2 and some from 5-7 with the odd big store open 8 hours a day.

      Cafes, normally called bars, are open longer but often the kitchen is shut until 8pm but there is a selection of tortillas (omelettes) and bocadillas (snacks) displayed on the counter. Alcohol and coffee seem to be served all day long.

      I really do prefer the villages and countryside than the cities, and will think twice about whether to have a rest day in a city again. The Camino seems always to go through the historical heart and pass by all the must see sights so nothing is missed if you follow the Way.

      Of course, the main attraction of La Rioja is the wine and I'll be passing by many vineyards over the coming days.
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    • Day 9

      Los Arcos to Logroño

      April 10 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

      117 miles done. 383 to go.

      Lunch was “the pilgrim’s meal” as typically served in establishments along the Camino. Huge salad with a local cheese selection, perfectly breaded chicken breast with potatoes, a flambéed apple dessert, espresso, AND an entire bottle of local sauvignon blanc. 15 euros! That’s crazy, right? I only had two glasses of wine from the bottle because I still had 6 miles of walking post-lunch.

      Listened to 7 chapters of Nadia Bolz Weber’s audiobook, Shameless, while walking this morning and afternoon. There’s so much that resonates with memories of my upbringing in nondenominational churches in the 80s and 90s and thus my theological understanding shaped by purity culture, “kissing dating goodby,” WWJD, and then 8 years of reparative therapy that I was a part of, between Illinois and Colorado, by my own volition. There’s a lot to unpack with this book/audiobook, and if you’ve had a similar journey and would find it helpful to ever talk about God, faith, sexuality, fear, shame, etc., I’m glad to listen and share our life experiences together. I’m very grateful to those along the way that have been a lifeline to me… some of you who might read this know that you have been that for me, then, and still now. Thank you.

      Today was a super long walking day. Not challenging in the ascents and descents, but challenging in length… stamina of keeping moving over the long distance. I’ve started to notice others who are walking the Camino route limping, slowing down, taking more breaks, and changing out bloody bandages on their feet. I’m grateful my feet are holding up so far, though I’m prepared in case I start to get blisters or hurt myself. I’ve got my routine of stretching, massaging my feet and calves, and applying body glide where I’m feeling the rub. It’s worked…so far.

      But, in all the care for my feet, I neglected to care for the rest of me. And I got sunburned on the backs of my calves after hiking my pants up in the afternoon heat AND I had some sort of allergic reaction to the hotel soap this afternoon. So, there’s that. Not a fun combo. 😞 I gotta be more careful!

      Also, they mix red wine and Coca-Cola here as a cocktail. Kalimotxo is what it is called.
      I had to try it. The verdict is in… it’s good and odd. Sweet and tart. Different. Like me 😜
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    • Day 7

      Tapas paradise

      July 29, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      Logroño is known as the gastronomical capital of Spain, so I went to check it out with my new friends Jane (from Ireland) and Lubo (Bulgarian living in Spain).
      The photos were taken around 9pm, when the Calle Laurel starts buzzing. Note how clear the sky still is at that time!Read more

    • Day 16

      From Sansol to Logrona

      September 15, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      Day 12 and 13 in Logrono - The Albergue Palacio de Sansol turned out to be an amazing place. It was a 320 year old palace lovingly restored by the current owner, José Maria. His family had owned it in the early 1900s and then sold it. Jose bought it back for €30,000 in the 1990s and more recently spent a millón euros to restore it into a really charming albergue.
      The pilgrim dinner was cooked by Jose and consisted of a watery soup of what looked like celery to me - but turned out to be artichoke stems. I was among the 5% that didn’t particularly like it (it needed some masala). Luckily there was a twenty-something sitting next to me who was starving and had my share - so was not wasted. This guy is an aspiring actor from LA - so we took a selfie I can show off one day.
      The next morning, yesterday, I reluctantly left Sansol - I had such a nice room, I wanted to hang out - and made my way to Viana, the halfway point. That path, all 11 kms - was a complete knee buster - there were seriously steep climbs and descents all the way to Viana. At Viana I found I had caught up with all my dinner friends who had left at 6 am because there was a bull festival happening in town and they were hanging out waiting for it. I watched the fireworks and the procession with them but didn’t wait for the bull run because of the timing. I had another 10km to get to Logrono.
      Logrono is a vibrant town. One neighborhood is devoted to tapas/pinchos bars and people hang around there snacking and drinking. Nobody eats dinner till 9 or 10pm. The town has a beautiful cathedral, Santa María de Palacio, and I got a much coveted stamp in my pilgrim passport - the lady at the tourist office said that it was hard to get.
      Last night, as I sat outside with a glass of red Rioja, some of my Sansol friends showed up and we ended up having more wine along with some a amazing but weird tapas. Surprisingly the 2 glasses of wine didn’t give me a headache!
      I spent 2 nights in Logorno. And btw, I’ve completed a hundred miles walking the Camino….
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    • Day 21

      Aujourdhui congé - Lessive - relaxation

      May 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

      Aujourd’hui on a déniché une “Lavenderia” afin de faire notre lessive. L’équipement était d’excellente qualité, récent, rapide et simple d’utilisation.

      Réservations: on a aussi réservé nos 2 prochaines nuits. Difficile de trouver mais nous avons réussi en choisissant des hôtels un peu plus dispendieux, mais le confort sera assuré.

      Nous sommes chanceux puisqu'il pleuvait aujourd'hui et nous étions en congé. Avant la « Siesta espagnole » nous en avons profité pour faire un arrêt dans un bar à tapas. Après une bonne bière, nous avons choisi de manger quelques tapas et un bon vin rouge dans la capitale de Rioja. Merci à mon complice de m’avoir fait découvrir les tapas. Quelle belle découverte... 🤗 Merci !!!

      Demain ce sera l’étape no 8. de Logroño à Nájera, une rando de 30 km. Ce parcours est considéré comme modéré. Nous attaquerons 5 étapes consécutive totalisant
      131 km avant les sections de la Meseta. « Pas par Pas, toujours devant ».
      Buen Camino
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    • Day 15

      Yall these walks are stacking up and we feeling it!

      We left Villatuerta and headed to Estella for cafe con leche. Oops!!! It’s Sunday!! Most places closed. It’s interesting when business close on Sunday and mid day throughout the week. We see no one . Not a soul walking around . Ghost town.

      We did end up finding a coffee and then realized we might have a problem, no food to fuel us on our walk.

      As we left Estella we found a tiny food stall and I bought a tomato, tangerine, chocolate croissant and an Aquiriaus (Spanish Powerade).

      We walked with Kathy (Atlanta) and Fred (Netherlands). We helped each other navigate the arrows and stay on track.

      As we were walking I could myself getting weak. I could feel the tomato burn off and banana. I got concerned about my strength and then I saw in a town of closed businesses ONE that was open and they had a tortilla espanol. That did it! That food got me set for the day.

      We walked and walked and saw beautiful scenery. I haven’t tired of it.

      Pain and pleasure.

      My knees and hamstrings were screaming. I was barely taking a Six inch steps. I seriously considered taking a nap on a rock during the misty cool moring under the trees. I walked for about 5 hours and eventually caught up with Amy, Fred and Kathy at a cafe.

      We found a Roman aqueduct or pool or something that was gravity fed by the mountains. The water was cold. So I got in in it to chill my legs down and feet.

      After that Fred said let’s go and do this.

      We walked and walked through vineyards and mountains. I was delirious. Literally!🤣. I think I fell asleep twice walking. 😳

      I even at one point started running! My body just took off running for a few seconds a few times.

      It was a weird fun tiresome day.

      We arrived in Los Arcos totally spent and we realized we could not walk through town because they were doing running of the bulls (toros).

      Check Any Gaster Facebook page and find penguins posts for fun videos .

      We also released we booked our hotel at an out of town truck stop! Oops and yikes! It was another 45 minute walk!!

      It was funny for a lot of reasons and I was happy to have a warm bed and not share the room with 10 other people.

      For dinner I accidentally ordered the wrong meal. I meant to order the goat cheese salad and instead ordered cod and eels salad. Amy, Kathy and I had a good laugh at my blunder. I ate it! Sand gum hit sea worms on a salad!! 🤣. I also had pork ribs french fries and bell pepper. It was sketch for sure and I ate it anyways. I was fine! Yay!🙌. Yum!!!!!

      Oh and we found the wine fountain that pours out of the wall at the Monastery leaving Estella. Rose’
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    • Day 15–17

      Rest Stop in Logroño

      May 20 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

      After recovering from our 12-hour day on the Camino that ended with an exciting rainstorm and Bull run on Sunday, Trina and I decided it was time for a break, and one of our guidebooks recommended Logroño as a perfect rest stop. We got a ride on the highway A12 from our truck stop hotel to our two night rest stop in Logrono and checked into two nice private rooms located right in the center of town.

      My feet are in need of a break due to my pinky toes being very swollen and blisters are trying to form on my heel. Trina is fighting off a cold, probably from the sick New Zealand woman sharing our room of five beds in the Magical Albergi. She was coughing and admitted to being very ill and a nurse, one would think she should have known better than to be in a communal place. But, maybe there was nowhere else for her to go. Maybe she couldn't afford to take a taxi to the next town? Who knows. Anyway both of us now have sinus symptoms and I'm hoping it's just allergies. We've been walking through wildflowers for over a week and our bodies are adapting to this new environment and activity level. It'll be alright.

      In addition to resting up for our walk through the Rioja region, we have decided to use our two days of Camino "time off " to do some needed trip planning and other chores. First we had lunch at the classic Cafe Moderno, a vintage diner experience with lots of locals enjoying the 3 course lunch menu with vino.

      After a long lunch of salad, soup, chicken and fish, we strolled to check out the neighborhood and found we're staying right up from the famous Calle del Laurel a lively pedestrian Street in Logroño's old town featuring over 50 restaurants & tapas bars serving traditional pinchos. We tried a BBQ sandwich pincho on the way home with a cafe con leche, then went back to our hotel for a nap.

      We rallied around 5:00 and set out for the pharmacy, pop into the cathedral for a look at their famous art collection, and then to do our laundry while we plan the next stages of our trip through Sunday. We sat down in a bar on the corner and drank the Rioja de la Casa which came with a small bowl of pork rinds. Yum! We made reservations at the next 4 Camino stages in two hotels, one albergi, and splurging with a shared room at a Parador. We are breaking up our stages into smaller sections so that we do not overdo it. We have realized that 28 km in one day, with the assents and descents is too much for us at this time. And we are trying to get synced back up with two of the ladies that we walked with from St Jean who are one day behind is.

      Even though we didn't walk Monday, we made a lot of progress, including getting an excellent night's sleep in what would be considered a luxurious room comparatively speaking. There is a small Nespresso machine quietly luring me to get out of this very comfortable bed, that, truth be told, I could lie in all day. But, this town looks really interesting and it seems a shame to not spend some time exploring it. And there is an art deco cafe right next door with a lovely desayuno calling my name.

      Now that we have walked from the Navarra region into Rioja, I looked at booking a half day wine tour today, but we decided that may be too much to do if we want to successfully get back to our pilgrim life tomorrow.

      Today we will decide whether we will ship some items onward to Santiago at the post office to lighten our load. We will get our bags ready to take to the Albergi for transport tomorrow, and we will enjoy tapas and hopefully meeting up with our fellow Pilgrim Friends who are arriving in town today. And we will also rest so our bodies can carry us for the next 600 plus km.

      We are enjoying the journey.
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    • Day 10

      Day 10: Logroño

      September 19, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

      We had a bit of a hiker jam at our lodging in Los Arcos this morning, when those of us trying to get an early start on the long day to Logroño were stymied by the albergue’s locked door.

      The instructions for pressing a button to open were not working. Eventually, someone woke up the hospitalera and she unlocked the door with a key.

      We were soon on our way in the dark, looking forward to breakfast in Sansol, the next town about 7 kilometers away. Alas, no food was available there but we scored delicious tortilla sandwiches in Torres del Rio, which was just 1 kilometer further.

      Much of the rest of the day’s hike was in full sun or on pavement, which makes for a harder walk. Which meant that we were pretty wiped by the time we arrived at our hotel in Logroño.

      Nonetheless, hot showers are always wonderfully restorative, so as soon as I post this we’re off to see about a barber for Allan, and then to sample some pintxos.

      Tomorrow, we’ll have an “easy” 12 1/2 kilometers hike to Navarrete.
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    • Day 4

      La Laurel

      July 20, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

      This is a street in Logroño with dozens of food stands and street side food vending. And the best part is: everyone has at last one or two amazing vegan and vegetarian dishes and everything can be made gluten free, even the croquetas.Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Logroño, Logrono

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