Nogais, As

I was lucky enough to sleep very well after our long day so was ready to get up before the alarm went off at 6.30.
The weather couldn’t be more different to today. Yesterday clear blue skies, cool air but very warm sun. Today, mist and cloud to the extent that I had to wear my poncho until we got to Triacastela, when the sun began to emerge and I began to warm up.
Despite the cloud it was a beautiful walk down to Triacastela- felt rather dream like in the mist. I stopped for coffee in a lovely albergue in Filoval where the speciality was homemade cheesecake. I am now really regretting that I didn’t have this - I don’t usually eat cake type things so early - and instead had a tortilla, very large and just too much so l I’m finally tortillad out! (Happened much sooner last year!).
On down into Triacastela, past the extraordinary 800 year old chestnut tree (still alive and doing well with an 8m circumference trunk). I am imagining all the things that tree has seen and am in awe.
Triacastela is a funny town in my experience. Last year struggled to find somewhere open for coffee. This year had a very grumpy supermarket experience - first time I’ve really experienced that sort of hostility to pilgrims on the camino.
So I was pleased to leave fairly quickly and move on towards our destination of Pintin. A new place for me as last year we did the Samos route to Sarria. The ‘main route’ which we are doing this year is shorter but much steeper than the Samos route so it was quite a hard hike out of Triacastela and then another long down after reaching the top at San Xil de Carballo.
The path was mainly through woods with beautiful views across the countryside from time to time. There was a fab donativo food place about half way between Triacastela and Pintin - part of a yoga/meditation place - which made up for the rubbish supermarket experience (see picture).
Then on to Pintin (strange name) where the albergue seems fine and thank goodness does food (was worried there wouldn’t be anything to eat til supper time). So had a cheese sandwich and chips - my staple on the camino. Ryan and Kyle are here too so sat with them while eating.
Have now showered and done loads of washing, hoping that it will dry in the laundry room or on the rather alarming out the window washing line (not sure what will happen if my stuff drops off as it’s a precipitous drop and not sure how I’d access it). It was all so dirty the water in the basin was brown as soon as I put each thing in.
Not sure I’ll need supper after my big lunch but will probably need something.
Did eat supper - and not a small one - first pizza of the camino with roasted vegetables. Also a glass of Bierzo white wine.Läs mer