Pino, O

“Sometimes a simple moment of joy is all we need to remember how lucky we are” - Walter Y Flan

Day 33 - Arzúa to o Pedrouzo - 19km - approx 5.5 hrs walking time.

We left our hotel and Albergue in the dark. I mean dark enough that we needed Annette’s phone flashlight to see where we were going, as we both left our headlamps in our bags that were being transported. Not the smartest but there you have it! Shockingly, there were more hills! Imagine that. Up, down and all around we went. After walking through dark tunnels of trees, we were surprised to see it was all of a sudden daylight. It seemed to happen so fast, as it does some days. Again, we looked back - the sunrise was incredible, as it so often is here. I love the mornings. It’s the only time of day I can say I enjoy walking. Starting in the dark may seem stupid but, I love to be walking and see the light enter the world once again. Be there for the breaking of day. As it is so late in the season, I don’t even have to get up at stupid o’clock for this pleasure. Sunrise isn’t until after 8:30am, so we can even sleep in a bit and still enjoy the sunrises. And I have been!

We were walking through forests for the most part and the ground is more dirt than rock. Due to the rains from the night before - and I think last night too, the path was muddy and slippery. When walking in the woods - any woods, it always smells good. Here though, the occasional smell of eucalyptus made me smile. I really love that smell. I think in Galicia, it’s a race to see if the chestnut trees or the eucalyptus are more prevalent. Thinking of smells - there are a lot of cows in Galicia! And lots of manure spreading. Those aren’t smells I won’t soon forget 😂

I was looking for someone today - a man with a donkey this time. Roland, a modern Don Quixote and Pilgrim from Hungary and his donkey Rosinante were an inseparable couple (aka Rolandante), living and walking on the Camino. However, Rosinante died earlier this year and Roland now has a new donkey to accompany him. She was in a field as we went passed and looked very happy and healthy! We were lucky enough to encounter them this morning just as they were setting up their stand. They also have their own donkey stamp, which is so cute. Of course I wanted one for my credencial so I waited patiently until they were ready. Roland makes earthen (clay) pendants and bracelets, sells his book (in Hungarian only), postcards and beautiful colouring posters front the images in his book. I had to buy a bracelet of course. He is almost sold out for the year though, so I may have bought more than one…

We walked through many small communities today and some cool places. There was a birergartten that used all the old beer bottles for decor. I think even the local cat drank at that bar!

As the ground was wet and soggy and hard walking, we only stopped for a tea break and a less than satisfying lunch. We had been looking for a place I had heard about - a Texas rubbed meat place. In fact, Annette and I swear we smelled it on more than one occasion. Nope. They are apparently located at Marker 25km, but we didn’t see them. Found out later they are closed today and likely the rest of the season :-( We walked as far as Santa Irene where we finally gave up and had lunch. One thing is certain - dinner later was non negotiable. Needed something decent after the sorry excuse for lunch.

We only had a few Kms left for the day to O Pedruzo. We had been fighting a losing battle with strong winds for the last 2km and continued to do so all the way to our accommodations. Rain was still threatening and I did end up having to put my poncho on at one point as it went from a light spilling to an actual rain. As is often the case here, I got my poncho on in time for it to stop! We arrived to O Pedruzo around 2pm, both weary, with sore feet and bone tired.

I had done laundry 2 nights ago, but I have no idea what is clean or dirty anymore. So, another load today after getting to my Albergue. Of course my machine decided not to work and did not spin. So, double wash it is! Can’t be too clean, am I right? Especially after being in the Camino for weeks on end!!
When I was finally able to put stuff in the dryer, I went in search of dinner. As with a lot of places, bars and restaurants here don’t seem to be open until 7 or 7:30, for dinner. I was hungry at 6. I did find a churro place that was open and smelling yummy. So, next best thing….dessert before dinner it is! Annette joined me and then we made our way to the Pulperia for dinner at 7:30. So very glad we waited, as the grilled octopus and Padron peppers were to die for! We split the food as we were both still thinking about churros in chocolate. Thankfully we did split as we would never have eaten a whole order each. Amazing dinner for Annette’s last night. She walks into Santiago tomorrow!

It is so strange to think there are less than 20km left to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela - my destination. How is that possible? I am stringing it out to 2 days as I want to arrive early in the morning - so, the 20th of Oct it will be. In the meantime, I am going to walk the rest of The Way on my own and contemplate what this journey has meant to and for me.Read more