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    • Dag 26

      Day 27. Rest day in Leon

      25 mei 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      We are staying in central Leon, close to the Gothic cathedral on the Camino trail. Construction of Leon Cathedral, begun in the 13th century reflecting one of the greatest works of the Gothic style. From an engineering standpoint, this cathedral was the first to use thinner walls , allowing for a wider span, replacing those walls with more impressive stained glass. This church has nearly 1800 square meters of stained-glass windows dating back to the 13th century. Leon Cathedral, along with the Burgos Cathedral and the one in Santiago de Compostela are the three most significant cathedrals on the Camino.
      The Basilica de San Isidoro is a church located on the site of an ancient temple. Its Christian roots can be traced back to the early 10th century when a monastery of St John the Baptist was erected on the grounds. In 1603 the basilica was rededicated to St Isadore of Seville. As Doug has mentioned this is representative of the best in Roman structures. Unfortunately, indoor photos were disallowed but we did see royal crypts and striking medieval wall paintings (frescoes).
      We spent much of the afternoon at a cafe people watching, nothing the many pilgrims who set off today. Last night, we ate some traditional Spanish food: tortilla espanola (onions, potatoes, egg cooked in olive oil), tapas, morcilla (blood sausage in spices), paella, and calamari. We ate too much last night, so we stuck to plainer rice and vegetables today; however, we did allow for an ice cream and pastry treat.
      Cathy has adapted amazingly well to the 8-hr time difference - or perhaps she’s just happy to see me - between here and Yellowknife. We’re hitting the sack early, hoping to start shortly after 8:00 am breakfast. Cathy’s first day on the Camino- stay tuned tomorrow to find out how she does!
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    • Day 28 - León - Rest Day

      26 september 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

      Well, the planning has started. I started to put together a tentative plan of where I will stay and reserve a few beds and it is really hard to believe that I have just over 300kms and only 2 weeks left. If I go according to my schedule (and it could easily change), then I would arrive in Santiago on October 12th. That would be perfect timing for me. I would spend a few days there, go to Finistere for a day and then make my way to Germany in time for Bärbel’s birthday.

      So it was wonderful last night. I arrived in Leon and the albergue around 5:15pm. I showered, changed and was ready to go out the door. I met Christina and Kangmi at the Cathedral. We toured inside the cathedral and then went for sangrias. Dinner in Spain doesn’t start until 8-8:30pm, so it was a long wait for food. It was worth it. We ordered a few dishes to share including a salad, cured meat platter and croquettes (my new favourite food!). These croquettes were filled with blue cheese.

      We finished dinner around 10:30 and we all headed in different directions for our beds. It was definitely worth missing the 18km and spending the 2 Euros for the bus to see them. Christina is off again this morning. Will still be a day ahead, but if I don’t catch up, I am sure I will see her in Santiago. I am making plans to try and see her in Denmark before I head home.

      Today I didn’t get out of bed until 10:00am, and even then, I sat around in my sleep clothes until 11 and finally said it was time to go outside. I did a little shopping but didn’t really find what I was looking for but it wasn’t anything urgent.

      I spoke with Maximilian today to have him help me with my cell phone. I have voicemail but wasn’t sure how to get into it as the instructions were in German. He helped me sort it out.

      Now I am just heading out again (stores open again at 5:30) to try and find some yoga pants or leggings so I have in case of cold evenings.

      TTYL

      Throwback to 2009 Julie’s Journal

      Ok, the last words I heard before sleep was Joerg looking into my eyes, smiling and saying “beautiful” Can there be anything better??
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    • Dag 25

      Stop in Leon to visit with friends

      4 oktober 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

      In between our volunteer time in Santiago, and starting our own Camino, we had the tremendous joy of spending a day in Leon with our Camino Friends, Larry and Carolyn Hatch, and also got to meet their sister-in-law, Juliana, who lives in Newport, Oregon! We had a delightful visit with them. Unfortunately, I have come down once again with a case of bronchitis, and I had to spend the first evening in Leon waiting to see a doctor in urgent care. I was so happy to get seen there and to get medicine so that I can stop coughing! They examined me and took x-rays (lungs are good!) and gave me a breathing treatment and prescribed the exact medicines I needed and all for $240! Sometimes I’m tempted to just stay in Spain!Meer informatie

    • Dag 22

      Respite in Leon

      10 oktober 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

      So, we made it to Leon today! It feels like just in time, limping to our air BnB, where we will spend today AND tomorrow before heading back into the fray on Thursday. I think I took exactly one photo as I walked today, of a distance marker showing our great progress. Only 329.5 kilometers left, it proclaims, and that was before we walked another maybe 25 Km today. We started with 800 ahead of us, so!
      The walk into Leon, like maybe any city, was not especially scenic, so not much to share, visually.
      We were happy to meet up with a fellow from Germany we hadn’t seen for days; this is such a fun part of this experience, connections that braid in and out as we all make different choices about how far to walk on any given day, while all still adhering to the same route. We greet one another as old friends!
      The air BnB I found has exceeded our expectations, as in addition to the giant tub with jets it ALSO has a small sauna. This apartment may save my life…
      Anyway, I know it’s absurd to be saying this but wow, this is an undertaking, and that’s not just the chest cold talking. I wish I had a clearer sense of what it all means at this point, but having jumped into this deep, fast-moving river, all I can really do is keep letting it carry me along. Starting again on Thursday.
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    • Dag 35

      Santa Maria,Gaudi et les autres à Leon

      23 mei 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

      Cathédrale Santa Maria de type gothique élaboré à la fin du moyen âge, bâti sur les ruines de l'église romane, orienté à l'est pour que la lumière du soleil puisse pénétrer par les vitraux et éclairer la lumière
      que Jesus par sa venue, par la suite l'orientation du soleil provoque une luminosité moindre et se projette sur les apôtres, le côté sombre est dirigé vers les prophètes de l'ancien testament , avant la venue du Christ, tout a été
      planifier dans la construction pour souligner la lumière que fut le fils de Dieu lors de sa venue selon la bible. Une architecture qui aura pris 50 ans à construire.

      Casa Botines ( musée sur Gaudi )
      Fermé le mardi nous étions donc pas dû pour voir ses réalisations à l'extérieur de Barcelone

      Ce soir imagination pour trouver des tapas à proximité.
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    • Dag 23

      Day 20 - Leon

      4 juni 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      At a glance:
      Cultural highlight: Casa Botines, A Goudy designed building now a Goudy Museum. And a tour of The Church of San Franscisco of Assidi by a Franciscan monk.
      Food highlights: Nougat Ice cream and Apple and Cheese ice cream.
      Kilometres walked: 14.37
      # of steps: 17,911
      We packed up, checked out of the EC hostel and walked into Lyon proper. As checkin to the Hostel Quartier León Jabalquinto was at 2pm we decided to have coffee and visit the Goudy museum.
      Casa de Botines was set on a large plaza on the outside it was characterized by round towers and 4 floors and a slate roof. It could easily be a castle. Goudy spent considerable time in the 1860's in Leon designing the structure ( one of only three buildings built outside of Barcelona) to accommodate the alluvial floodplain, align with the celestial sky and fulfill both a practical and spiritual function. The first floor was originally a fabric centre and a bank. The second, third and fourth floor were residences joined by spiral stairs. The third floor showed some of the furniture of the period including chairs tables and desks. I was also impressed by a reconstruction of a dental office with frightening looking drills. The fourth floor was mostly paintings of various eras from the 10th century, thtough to Picasso and up until modern impressionist work.
      One interesting display centered on a spiral with weights hanging from lengths of string. This was meant to show what building angles could work from the inside out. Back outside the museum was a sculpture of
      a lion (Leon's namesake) coming out what looked like an underground septic access drain.
      At a bit after 2pm we navigated to Hostal Quatier Leon and checked into a very nice room on the first floor with 3 white sheeted beds. My foot was dressed and chilled by a gel ice pack found in the kitchen fridge. We met Paula who wanted to meet at 4:30 so after a shower and foot rest we wandered over to the St. Francisco monastery for a tour. We joined a small group and a very kindly monk showed us the alters that had come from the Santa Maria Cathedral, the doorway with brightly coloured wooden pieces representing the different nationalities and a cross. Part of the monastery was used as a trade school for auto mechanics and engineers while other rooms were used for needy families. There was also a display of art from from persons with leukemia. The inner garden or cloister was quite peaceful and had a labyrinth of hedges, roses and fruit trees.
      After the tour finished one tourist was moved to a have a confession with the monk. Outside the church was a statue showing St. Francis the patron saint of animals. Although we didn't attend the later mass, I was moved by the gentle and kind spirit of the monk.
      Paula had had a late lunch so didn't want dinner but Liz and I were ever hungry so found a bar with dinner choices. We have come to realize that although the streets are full of people at 7:00 pm, nobody really eats until well after 8:00 pm. So we did some street wandering ourselves and finally landed upon the Green Corner restuarant and bar. Liz had an Ensalada Roussa ( Russian potato salad) and grilled chicken and eggs
      and I had an Ensalada Mixta and Pollo Milanese (Grilled chicken). The dinner was OK but nothing to write home about.
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    • Dag 14

      Camino Day 10 - Leon (rest day 1)

      2 september 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      A rest day on Leon today with us all doing our own thing. An amazing city.
      Hollie and I spent the morning at the physiotherapist getting sorted for the next 300kms, and Javier (physio guy) was amazing. I spent the rest of the day with my feet elevated laying on the lounge. My blisters are now almost fully healed and with Javier's help, my legs and back are in good shape.
      Caught up with the Camino family in the afternoon for drinks and later for dinner. It was a fun but sad evening as we were saying goodbye to a really dear friend Anna, who was heading home to Barcelona.
      The four of us went for a walk through the city and picked up crepes for dessert before heading back to our apartment.
      Another day in Leon tomorrow to fully prepare for the next stage of our adventure.
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    • Dag 6

      Mongogo

      28 april 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      Wir waren beim Mexikaner essen unt natürlich gab's Margaritas 😉. Alles hing mit alten Kino Plakaten zu, es lief Rock'n'Roll aus den 60ern und die Zepra/Leoparden Wände waren schon speziell 👌. Aber gut

    • Mansilla de las Mulas to León

      8 oktober 2022, Spanje ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

      Finally today we saw the last of the Meseta walking from Mansilla to León and already the landscape is becoming more featured and interesting and mostly corn fields replacing the wheat.

      We crossed the Esla River (there must be a connection) leaving Mansilla and walked under light cloud on a wide gravel path for about 12km. Our company for most of the time were Jens and Kristin a younger retired couple from Denmark. Our Danish is non-existent but their English was excellent and they were good company for a couple of hours. They have walked and cycled all over Europe.

      We had anticipated not walking all the way in to León as the last 6km is on hardtop concrete and bitumen through industrial areas. So we completed the day’s relocation with a very informative taxi driver who told us about a festival in León over the weekend.

      We checked in to our digs, cleaned up and walked through lively Saturday afternoon streets of the old city towards León Cathedral. No sign of the locals doing siesta with every bar, cafe and restaurant occupied. León’s cathedral Santa María de Regla, is an extraordinarily beautiful building outside and in.

      We came out from early evening Mass at the Basilica of San Isidoro to find the festival in full swing. The streets are thronging with families and all food and drink establishments are open with extra outside seating and hundreds of stalls are selling everything imaginable.

      But time for bed. We walk tomorrow.
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    • Dag 25

      22 Mansilla de las Mulas – León

      21 augustus 2022, Spanje ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

      Mansilla de las Mulas verabschiedete mich mit Maulbeerbäumen (… wenn das welche waren? Schaut mal auf das Foto, vielleicht kennt sich da jemand besser aus.) und Feigen, die den Weg raus aus der Stadt säumten. Es geht flach weiter, doch schon bald gibt es keine Bäume und damit auch kein Schatten mehr. Die Sonne meint es heute auch sehr gut.
      •••••
      Gestern Abend habe ich noch ein Video von Bruder Fritz gesehen. Er erzählt etwas über die Wirbelsäule und ihrer obersten Wirbel: den Atlas, der den Kopf trägt. In der griechischen Mythologie ist es auch der Atlas, der die ganze Welt auf seinen Schultern trägt. Es geht um die Frage, wie ich diese Last frei bekomme und in die Leichte bringen kann.
      Da ist also auch ein Federkern. Den hatten wir vor ein paar Tagen schon einmal - da nur im
      Bauch beim Solarplexus - erinnert ihr euch? Es kostet Anstrengung den gespannt zu halten. Würde ich ihn entlasten und mich in meine wahre Größe hinein entspannen können, würde es leichter.
      So ist es auch mit meinem Nacken. Der Rucksack mit seinen bestimmt 10 kg Gewicht zieht ganz schön. Ich trage ihn wie Atlas die Welt. Ich beuge mich ein bisschen vor und ziehe die Schultern hoch. Ich probiere mal, mich gerade aufzurichten und meine innere Haltung zu verändern. Eigentlich nicht zu verändern, weil es ändert sich äußerlich nichts. Es ist nur wie Bewusstsein dort hinschicken und dann löst sich etwas. Kennt ihr das?
      Ich kann es nur in Zusammenhang mit dem Lächeln beschreiben - dem Engelslächeln, das die kleinen Kinder noch haben - um genau zu sein. Da gibt es im Gesicht den Trigeminus-Nerv, den Bruder des Vagus. Der ist dreigeteilt - wie der Name schon sagt. Die drei Äste gehen von der Schläfe in die Augenpartie, die Oberlippe und zum Kinn. Wenn ich da Bewusstsein reinschicke, löst sich etwas - ohne dass äußerlich etwas geschieht - aber der vorher vielleicht stumpfe Blick beginnt zu strahlen und dieses offene verbindende Lächeln blüht auf.
      Das ist doch ein schönes Bild. Heute will ich etwas mit den Schultern lächeln - und es wird leichter. Aber dieses Lächeln schläft immer gerne wieder ein. Da habe ich noch zu üben.
      •••••
      Dann komme ich nach León. Als ich über einen Hügel komme - ja, die gibt es hier wieder - sehe ich die Stadt vor mir. Es dauert noch über eine Stunde bis ich die Kathedrale erreiche. Die Straßen ziehen sich endlos. León ist die letzte größere Stadt am Weg.
      León - die Löwenstadt - wie es einige in Europa gibt: Leuven in Holland, Leonberg bei Stuttgart, Lyon natürlich und auch Belfort in der Burgundischen Pforte, wegen des steinernen Löwen von Bartholdi, der auch die Freiheitsstatue in New York enrworfen hat.
      Wenn nun all diese Löwenstädte unter dem Siegel ihres Sternbildes zusammenhängen - so wie die Notre-Dame-Kathedrale in Frankreich das Sternbild der Jungfrau auf die Landkarte projizieren?
      Oder sind die Städte am Jakobsweg, dem Sternenweg - er folgt ja der Milchstraße - auch aufgereiht wie der Tierkreis? León wäre der Löwe - Santiago vielleicht der Weihnachts-Steinbock. Zum Meer hin bei Finisterre folgt der Wassermann. Und auf der andern Seite: Pamplona mit dem Stier.
      Vielleicht oder vielleicht auch nicht. Wer weiß.
      •••••
      León ist eine laute Stadt. Die Preise sind doppelt so hoch, wie in den anderen Städten. Einzig die Kathedrale zieht mich an. Sie hat hohe lichtdurchflutete Gewölbe und lässt Raum. Die Seele breitet Schwingen aus.
      •••••
      Und hier gibt es veganes Essen!
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