Hiszpania
Ponferrada

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    • Dzień 24

      Day 21 - Solo days and knights

      6 października 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      ”Sometimes you need to take a break from everyone and spend time alone, to experience, appreciate and love yourself.” – Robert Tew

      Day 21 - Ponferrada rest day - approx 13km walked, around the city!!

      So, this is me today - alone again on my Camino. And that’s ok! I miss my Camino family, but I don’t mind my own company.

      This morning I slept in a bit and took time to rearrange my pack and downsize a bit. I will leave some small bits in my hotel and have now sent others along to my final destination near Muxia. Just stuff I don’t want to wear anymore (talking to you, Lulu shorts!!), haven’t used or won’t use all of (like my extra contacts). Figure I cut close to a kilo - which will help since I have likely added a kilo since I have been here.

      After I got myself all sorted, I headed up to the Castillo de Los Templarios (Templar Castle). Had a lovely breakfast at the cafe outside the walls, while I waited for the castle to open at 10am. Bumped into Jane, an Aussie from Perth, that I met in Boadilla del Camino about a week ago. She had been laid up in Léon with COVID for 6 days and then went back to where she had left off. She too has had to skip ahead a bit, to make up for lost time.

      According to their website, the castle’a prehistoric origins relate it to a settlement during the first Iron Age. Its privileged situation turned it into a walled enclosure with different dependencies inside. A total of 8,000 square meters make up the historical remains of this impressive castle. It was absolutely fascinating and I took almost 1.5hrs there, and this was without viewing some of the exhibits. While I was there, I met an Aussie/Brit named Eddie. She was sitting in one of the chambers all by herself, when I entered. She was singing and it was hauntingly beautiful.

      After the castle, I needed to visit Decathlon across town and made a good choice to avoid the local McDonalds. I then headed to the post office (back the way I had come from at the other side of town) to mail my parcel. By siesta time, this may not have been a “walking day”, but I had managed to rack up over 15,500 steps already.

      I decided to go out again in the evening for a glass of wine (because why not sit at a bar and drink by myself 😂?). As I stepped out of the doorway of my hotel, I heard a “hey, hello!” I turned around to find two ladies from Gatineau that I shared a dorm with (and went to Decathon with) over a week and a half ago, in Burgos. They had wanted my assistance with their flights, but left Burgos before I could help them. So, was able to assist them tonight and they were so grateful. It’s so weird how the Camino works! I had jumped ahead over 150km and still bump into 3 people I know from previous towns. Just to be clear, this is not a 2 bar town. This is a city. A big city. Yet here I am, running into people I have met before. I love the Camino magic. Put a smile on my face for ages!!

      After they went their separate way, I just started wandering around the city. I love the pulse and vibe here. Found a cheapie store that I had fun mooching around in, reloaded my phone so I am good until mid Nov when I fly home from France, and sat people watching as I drank my wine. Headed back to my hotel for an early-ish night, happy I had decided to venture out.

      Tomorrow is only a 15 km day, but the next is almost 20km. So, best rest up while I have the opportunity to have a snore-free zone since I am in a private room!
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    • Dzień 26

      Etappe 21 - Ponferrada 3

      7 października 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

      Habe mir heute einen Ruhetag vom pilgern verordnet. Möchte gern Ponferrada etwas näher kennenlernen.
      Erst habe ich mich dem neuen Teil der Stadt gewidmet. War teilweise sehr ernüchternd, da viele Geschäfte und Restaurants leer stehen.
      Danach Stadtrundgang in der Altstadt.
      Mit der Templerburg habe ich begonnen. Zuvor hat mich jedoch ein kleines Café "reingezogen" - unscheinbar, obwohl gleich gegenüber dem Castillo de los Templarios.
      In 1923 hat das Castillo leider große Schäden erlitten, da im Innenbereich Sprengungen für einen Fußballplatz erfolgten. Der gesamte Rest wurde aufwendig saniert.
      Vom Castillo habe ich den Weg zur Basilica de la Encina gewählt. Leichte Musik im Kirchenschiff hat sehr entspannend gewirkt.
      Im Pfarramt konnte ich den dritten Pilgerpass erwerben, da die beiden Vorhergehenden bereits mit Stempeln vollständig gefüllt sind.
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    • Dzień 27

      Etappe 22 - Villafranca del Bierzo 1

      8 października 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

      Heute morgen ging es nach einer guten Nacht und einem kleinen Frühstück erneut auf den Camino. Heute standen rund 23 km auf Etappe 22 nach Villafranca del Bierzo auf dem Plan.
      Die Gewitter von Gestern Abend haben dazu geführt, dass bis gegen Mittag ein schöner Bodennebel die Sonne nicht zu stark durchlies. Ab Mittag waren Temperaturen von um die 28 Grad vorherrschend.
      Die Tour bis Cacabelos war sehr abwechslungsreich und führte viel durch Weinberge. Leider sind die Rebstöcke bereits abgeerntet.
      In Cacabelos war für mich eine längere Rast gekommen, da ich sehr interessante Sachen entdeckte. Darunter eine super Herberge/ Hotel, interessante Details an Gebäuden und meine erste Pulperia. Da konnte ich nicht widerstehen und habe Pulpo gegessen. Top Essen mit Brot und Tinto de ferrano.
      Danach ging der Weg lange entlang einer Landstraße, welche samstags nicht groß befahren war.
      Die letzten 5 km waren dann nochmals von Weinbergen umsäumt.
      War dann gegen 15 Uhr in Villafranca und in meiner Auberge. 24 Betten in drei Räumen, super sanitäre Anlagen und das Beste - ich schlafe nur mit einem Australier allein im Raum.
      Wäsche hängt auf der Leine, frisch geduscht und durstig - auf in den Ort!!!
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    • Dzień 34

      Day 32 - To Ponferrada

      10 października 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

      Day 32 - To Ponferrada
      13 kms; Difficulty 3/3
      21°C

      As of today I am in the range of 570 km accomplished!

      Mountains look beautiful with the clouds/fog.

      My second picture shows an overview of where I am on the trail. I started at the far right in St Jean Pied de Port, France. Not too much left in to go!

      The trail was much the same as yesterday, as well as what shows in the next picture. It was more treacherous today though because it had rained last night so the trail was wet. Then I left in the dark, so really not safe. I came across people who had taken a taxi, instead of walking that stretch of the path. They didn’t feel that part of the trail was very safe at the best of times, let alone when it was wet.

      More beautiful pictures of a Cathedral. I’m running out of strong adjectives to describe their beauty.

      The last two pictures I sent to Mariah and told her it was Rapunzel’s castle. Now she wants to come here so badly to see it! ❤️❤️❤️
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    • Dzień 37

      36. Etappe: Ponferrada (33,7 km)

      2 grudnia 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

      Die Fotoauswahl fällt heut echt schwer! Denn: der heutige Weg hat mein Wanderherz höher schlagen lassenund ich hab verdammt viel Fotostopps gemacht 😁
      Heute stand mit gut 1.500 m der höchste Punkt des Pilgerwegs auf dem Programm, d.h. es galt gut 550 m hoch und anschließend 1.100 wieder runter zu steigen - also ein starker Kontrast nach den letzten recht flachen Wegen.
      Der Tag startete schon mit einem phänomenalen Sonnenaufgang kurz nach dem Start. Danach ging es aussichtsreich über schöne kleine Pfade, die viel Aufmerksamkeit forderten, oder Feldwege über unter und durch die Wolken und immer dabei der Bergblick! Kaum zu glauben, dass da tatsächlich der ein oder andere Pilger die Straße vorzog, um ein paar Kilometer zu sparen!
      Ich genoss den heutigen Tag in vollen Zügen und so checkte ich erst kurz nach 17 Uhr ein. In Ponferrada gönne ich mir zum ersten Mal ganz bewusst ein günstiges Hotelzimmer und genieße die große dicke Decke auf meinem bequemen Doppelbett und das flauschige Handtuch nach der erholsamen Dusche 🥰 Noch schnell ein paar Snacks eingekauft und dann wird heut nur noch entspannt. Werde mich wohl nie dran gewöhnen, dass die Kassierer hier das Einpacken für mich übernehmen - auch wenn ich nen eigenen Beutel dabei hab 😅
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    • Dzień 18

      “If it pleases me, I will.”

      17 sierpnia 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

      Yesterday I walked about 10 miles from Acebo to Ponferrada. The first half of the walk was finishing the descent down the mountain I climbed the day before. The second half of the walk was along the road. Walking on the road definitely isn’t as pleasant.

      I was talking to the albergue owner in Hospital de Orbigo about the route and where I planned to stop and he told me the section coming up is a lot of road walking, sometimes with very little space between yourself and the cars. I decided to take another taxi to skip this section and have a rest day before a big climb tomorrow up to the peak of another mountain. I’ve been feeling guilty about taking another taxi after starting to walk again. It’s hard to shake the idea that I’m “taking the easy way out” or that I’m not “suffering enough.”

      I’ve been reflecting on a quote I read in a book by Adrienne Marie Brown. She was quoting a friend of hers named Idelisse Malave who makes decisions with the mentality of, “If it pleases me, I will.” I’ve been using this phrase as I make decisions - asking myself “Will this please me?” If yes - I do it. If no - I don’t. Would it please me to walk miles on the road with cars whizzing by? No. Okay, so I’m going to take a taxi.

      I was also reflecting on Adrienne’s quote - “Your no makes the way for your yes. Boundaries create the container within which your yes is authentic. Being able to say no makes yes a choice.” Being able to say no to the parts of this experience that wouldn’t bring me joy is what has allowed me to say yes to the parts that have. If I had to walk every mile, I probably would have quit all together, or gotten injured and quit because my body needed to stop. On the days I have walked, I’ve been able to enthusiastically say “Yes, this is bringing me joy” even when I’m tired.

      It’s hard to shake old notions of asceticism and the moral value of suffering in religious contexts. One last quote I’ll share from Adrienne that I like is - “There is another path that isn’t full of stress, self-doubt, pain, victimization, and suffering. There is a path in which everything is learning, playing, practicing, doing things anew.”

      I’m working hard to carve out a new way to do a pilgrimage - one focused on pleasure and not suffering.
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    • Dzień 32

      Day 29

      19 września 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

      Left Ponferrana at 6.45 am and arrived 1.40 pm in Villafranca del Bierzo
      25ks
      There were not many markings to get out of Ponferderra, but we made it and, of course, harder in the dark. We walked quite a bit on a busy road today, and it was not easy with the traffic. Once off the road, it was not busy, but then walking on stoney paths wasn't the easiest either. One is never satisfied.🤣
      We went out of our way to chat to the folk who were picking 🍇 and they were thrilled to have their photo taken.
      To enter Villafranca del Bierzo, it was a very steep descent into this village with a population of 3.500. It is very pretty in parts and like others villages quite a few sad ruins.
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    • Dzień 23

      Ponferrada

      23 lipca 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 95 °F

      Early this morning, before the sun came up, we reached Puerto Irago Cruz de Ferro. The tradition is to leave a stone of love and blessings to the great collection. Zayne, Arlo, Avery, and Ezra- My stone was left for you. You are so special and a blessing to me- can you feel how loved you are, even all the way from Spain?❣️A beautiful sunrise lit our way as we descended over 1000 meters through the mountains, and small towns, down steep rocky trails, coffee at a trailer along the path, past a pilgrim retreat, and finally down into Ponferrada. We passed by the newly restored medieval Castle of the Templars, where knights were ordered by King Fernando II, in 1178, to protect Ponferrada. Our trek, today, was technically difficult, nearly 20 miles long, and took seven hours. After taking care of chores at our albergue, we were rewarded with falafels and an IPA at a craft beer street faire! Only 8 more days of walking, the countdown continues! Love to you all.❤️ Czytaj więcej

    • Dzień 24

      Etappe 20: Foncebadon nach Ponferada

      11 października 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      Um ca. 7.30 Uhr startete ich meine heutige Etappe.
      25 Kilometer standen heute an.
      Zuerst führte uns der Trail, auf einem schmalen Pfad ca. zwei Kilometer auf den Berg hinauf.
      30 Minuten später konnten wir aus naher Entfernung, den Cruz de Ferror erkennen, der hinter Nebelschwaden auftauchte.
      Nachdem Fotos und Stein abgelegt wurden, ging es weiter auf einem schmalen Pfad.
      Immer wieder konnte wir die umliegenden Berge bestaunen.
      Nach ca. 7 Kilometer schlängelte, sich der Camino auf einem steinigen Weg steil bergab. Hier mussten wir aufpassen, dass wir nicht ins rutschen kamen.
      Als wir endlich unten ankamen erreichten wir ca. 30 Minuten später Ponferada, unserem heutigen Etappenziel.
      Nach einchecken in der Albergue Alea und Erledigung aller Aufgaben, schauten wir zum heutigen Abschluss noch die Stadt an.
      Morgen geht's weiter nach Villafranca del Bierzo.
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    • Dzień 41

      Castillo de los Templarios

      22 października 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

      The Templar Castle in Ponferrada was occupied by the Knights of the Order of the Temple from 1178 until 1312 when the Order was disbanded. They protected pilgrims crossing the Iron Bridge over the Rio Sil.

      This would have to be my favourite piece of significant historical architecture on the Camino so far.

      Prehistoric remains have been found here that date from the first Iron Age. The Templars reinforced the walls and built additions to the castle. They left some legends behind including the existence of a passageway to a nearby castle.

      In the 15th century the castle was extended and the New Palace built by the Count of Lemos including the construction of many of the walls, towers, parapets and the entrance that remain today. The older castle sits at one end of the site.

      In the last century, since the site was declared a national monument in 1924, the Ponferrada Council has sort funds for restoration which have resulted in progressive spaces for exhibitions and conferences within the castle walls along with safe exploration of the castle. These modernisations and updates have been tastefully done and make the castle something that can be enjoyed by the community and visitors today.

      The New Palace, which has been extensively restored, contains the Templum Libri which contains ancient texts, maps and manuscripts from as far back as the 11th century. This is the first examples of ancient non-religious manuscripts I've seen on this European visit and I do love a good library.

      The castle also managed to highlight the magnificent setting of the valley and mountains which could be seen in the distance in every direction.
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    Możesz znać też następujące nazwy tego miejsca:

    Ponferrada, بونفيرادا, Ponferado, PFE, ポンフェラーダ, 폰페라다, 24400, Понферрада, Понферада, 蓬费拉达

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