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    • openendMy home is my car
      1
      Day 826

      Geopark Subbética

      November 30, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

      So schön Stadtbesichtigungen sind, uns zieht es zurück zur Natur. Dummerweise hatten wir nicht auf dem Schirm, dass es Sonntag war, als wir den Wanderparkplatz in Zahero anfuhren. Ein sonniger Sonntag. Und zwei Mini Parkplätze vor einem seeehr engen Dorf am Hang. Da standen wir nun auf der Strasse...vor und hinter uns halb Andalusien mit ihren Autos, die genau auch diese Wanderung machen wollten und Parkplätze suchten😬 Zum Glück kam gerade die Policia vorbei und half uns aus unserer Misere. Die Autos vorn und hinten weg gewunken, uns in die Parkplatzauffahrt zum Kehren gewunken und dann zum Wohnmobilstellplatz im nächsten Ort gewunken...äh...geschickt. Der ist eigentlich recht nett, direkt an der schönen Via Verde, aber leider auch direkt an einer viel befahrenen Strasse🤷‍♀️ Egal, Tisch und Stühle raus gemütlich Kaffee getrunken und einen Spaziergang gemacht. Am Montag dann die Velos gesattelt. "Speedy Gonzales" kriegte ihr neues Radrennfahrer-Outfit an...damit die anderen Radfahrer sie auch gut sehen, wenn sie neben dem Velo herrennt...und los ging's. Gähnende Leere bei den Wanderparkplätzen, war ja klar😅 Und auf dem Wanderweg. Keine Menschenseele unterwegs. Nur ein paar Gemsen und ein Adlerpaar auf ihrem Felsenhorst. Und Schafe... Sicher 100 Schafe zogen an uns vorbei, ohne Hirte und zum Glück auch ohne Hütehund. Da bleibt vermutlich ab und zu mal eines auf der Strecke oder wird gerissen...vom Wolf...? Vorstellen könnte man es sich zumindest in dieser Gegend. Die Reste liegen jedenfalls gut abgenagt am Wegesrand (Anke)Read more

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    • TravelerCamino Mozárabe 2023
      33
      Day 38

      Day 27: Cabra to Doña Mencía

      May 31, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      Day 27, from Cabra to Doña Mencía, 16.7km.
      Cabra is famous for its huertas, and as we leave the town, we pass through them.
      We get back onto the Camino Mozárabe at Cabra's old railway station. It is now an interpretation centre for the Tren del Aceite, and features a steam locomotive, the Mikado.
      The Camino follows the Vía Verde as far as Doña Mencía. Along the way, we were treated to beautiful scenery, bridges, viaducts and even a tunnel.
      On arrival at Doña Mencía, we drop our bags at the hotel and continue on to the centre.
      Before reaching the Ayuntamiento, there is a small square honouring the Camino Mozárabe.
      Luckily, the tourist office is open, and Marga takes us on a tour of the castle. Built in the 15th century by Diego Fernández de Córdoba, it is the reason for the town's existence. Diego Fernández de Córdoba brought twenty families from Baena to work the land around the castle. Marga also suggested that we visit the calle Juanita la Larga, a street full of flowers.
      The highlight of the day was when our friend Antonio came to pick us up, to show us his olive grove and his village, Zuheros. A short visit, but so interesting!      Read more

    • Ça roule en Europe 🚲
      3
      Day 4

      Montilla

      January 6 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

      Aujourd'hui c'était petite étape... Mais qui dit petite étape dit grosse galère !
      Google a cru que nous avions des VTT et les cuisses de Virenque !
      Nous sommes passés par des chemins de traverse, magnifiques et sous un soleil radieux, mais quelle galère ! Cette glaise s'est collée partout ! Aux roues, aux chaussures, aux freins... Je suis sûr que c'est ce qui a inspiré les inventeurs de la SuperGlue.
      On a quand même fini par arriver pour nous installer dans un champ d'oliviers avec un super couché de soleil !      Read more

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    • Camino Mozarabe
      Day 18

      Alcalá la Real to Alcaudete

      February 20 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

      D: This 24 km day was likely our easiest so far, simply because we walked through rolling but not at all challenging landscape. We were accustomed to some much longer stages on the CF and VDLP, so it has been a surprise on this route (until today) to find 20 km enough for a day! The trade off is that the views are nice but far less remarkable. Still, we enjoy!

      As always in Spain, I am impressed by the evidence of a robust feminist movement, impacting daily life in even small communities.

      G: vandaag een wandeling voornamelijk tussen de olijf-boomgaarden. Op het laatste stuk kwamen we op de weg heel veel rupsen tegen, ze kwamen bij de olijfbomen vandaan en liepen naar de andere kant.. Het zullen er meer dan duizend zijn geweest...

      Gisteren hadden we voor het eerst sinds drie dagen weer een stevige maaltijd. Op de een of andere manier komen we altijd te laat in een dorp voor de maaltijd van de dag ( menu del dia). Een gebruik in Spanje waarbij voor een redelijke prijs iedereen een dagmenu kan krijgen. En in de plaatsen waar we slapen gaan de restaurants daarna niet meer open. We hebben een paar dagen geleefd op toast van het ontbijt, pindaas en fruit.
      De goede maaltijd van gisteren met het redelijk vlakke terrein van vandaag maakte de 24 km makkelijk. We haalden daardoor ook een hogere gemiddelde snelheid. Maar om vier uur aankomen op de plaats van bestemming betekent wel dat de keuken net weer dicht is... Ons haasten om op tijd te komen lijkt ons geen optie.
      a.Weet je niet of er überhaupt wel een restaurant open is en b.als je forceert betaal je dat ergens anders terug en we willen wel de route kunnen uitlopen.
      Kijken of we vanavond wat kunnen scoren.      Read more

    • TravelerCamino Mozárabe
      Day 25

      Alcaudete

      October 13, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

      We're going to Jaén, so that we can walk the two stages from Jaén to Alcaudete. We were not leaving until 2pm, so we decided to visit the Castillo Calatrava or Castillo de Alcaudete.

      It has been restored and the information is quite interesting. It is smaller than the Fortaleza de la Mota. The various rooms have mannequins, and their faces are all those of Hollywood actors.

      As with all these castles, you get some amazing views from the top of the tower.      Read more

    • TravelerCamino Mozárabe
      2
      Day 24

      Alcalá la Real to Alcaudete (23.2km)

      October 12, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      We don't always walk backwards, but leaving Alcalá la Real, we turned around many times to see the sunrise over the city.

      We had had a storm overnight, and a mist hung around for a while. Little pearls of water formed at the tips of leaves.

      The walk was nice, and we don't get tired of walking amongst the olive trees. The noise of the nearby Carretera de Córdoba N-432 didn't bother us.

      At Ventas del Carrizal, we stopped for a drink. Shortly after we had sat down, 11 pilgrims appeared with their Spanish guide. They were walking from Granada to Córdoba. Some of them had never walked a Camino.

      We continued our walk and the sun came out. There was not much shade directly on the path, but we found a big oak tree, under which we stopped for lunch.

      A mojón at the entrance of Alcaudete indicated we had another 1114km to go to reach Santiago. Not this year.

      The bells were ringing when we arrived at the Santuario de Nuestra Señora de la Fuensante. The statue of Madonna in the chapel had been crowned, and the whole town was decorated to celebrate.

      We checked in at the Hotel Spa Rueda, and went for a walk. It looks like tomorrow morning we're going to visit the Castillo.

      After that, we're taking a Blablacar, our first time, and we're excited, to Jaén. We're taking two more rest days to discover the city.      Read more

    • TravelerCamino Mozárabe
      Day 29

      Martos to Alcaudete (23.6km)

      October 17, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

      Leaving Martos was interesting this morning. We wanted a stamp for today, knowing that there were no villages or towns on our path today. Just a few 100 metres up the road was a Guardia Civil post, so we asked them if they could add a memento to our credenciales, which they did. The hotel is not on the Camino, so we had to make our way to where we thought we would find arrows. We did so against the tide of workers going to a large factory.

      As soon as we were out of the urban area, we were surrounded by olive groves. All the way to the horizon. And popping out from under the olive trees were rabbits, scurrying across the path.

      And it wasn't long before we came to the Via Verde del Aceite, which made our walk so easy today. It follows the now dismantled railway track, built in 1859, which used to go from Jaén to Puente Genil.

      We crossed a number of viaducts, and from one of them we could see a medieval bridge over the río Víboras.

      The train line didn't use to go to Alcaudete, so we had to leave the Via Verde, and take a steep incline in the direction of that town.

      The temperature went up, so we used the umbrella with UV protection to shade Rachel on her walk.

      The Castillo Calatrava greeted us as we entered Alcaudete.

      Our day was saddened by the news that the husband of Rachel's sister had passed away after a long illness. Rachel might fly out to Switzerland to be with her sister.      Read more

    • TravelerCamino Mozárabe
      1
      2
      Day 30

      Alcaudete to Luque (Baena) (20.4km)

      October 18, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

      The Ayuntamiento was all lit up when we walked past this morning. And it was open, so we got a sello!

      The walk was nice, and leaving Alcaudete, we walked through more olive groves. At one stage, we arrived at the Carretera de Córdoba, the N-432, but we didn't have to walk long next to it, as the Camino then diverges off, once again amongst olive trees.

      It is on the carretera that we crossed into the province of Córdoba.

      By then the temperature was rising, and there was practically no shade. So the UV umbrella came out for Rachel.

      This stage is roughly 26km, and I had a plan B, should the heat be too much. I had planned to take a road from a point just after the Laguna del Salobral, and leave the Camino, heading towards the Antigua Estación de Luque, which is an easy place for a taxi to pick us up.

      It turns out that just before the decision point, we crossed the Via Verde. So we opted to follow that, knowing that there would be no traffic, and that any slopes would be gentle.

      We ended up at the Antigua Estación de Luque, which is now a restaurant, Nicols. The food was really good, which explained why the place was packed and we had to queue to get a table.

      After lunch, I called José María, a Baena taxi driver who knows Nely, and whose number is in the Asociación Jacobea guide.

      We're staying in a quaint casa, with half levels, in a quiet part of Baena behind the Castle. We even have a view of the castle!      Read more

    • TravelerCamino Mozárabe
      Day 31

      Baena

      October 19, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      Baena's Castle looks very simple from the outside, and the restoration work really makes it look fresh and modern.

      We were the only visitors this morning, and the lady at the entrance gave is a quick history of the castle. Built in the 9th century by the Arabs, it was captured at the time of the Reconquista and handed over to Diego Fernández de Córdoba in the 14th century.

      He demilitarised the castle and turned it into a palace and his main residence. It stayed in the family until the 18th century, when it was then abandoned.

      The Ayuntamiento took over the structure and built big water reservoirs. And in 2005, a prize winning restoration work started.

      Like for all castles, the views from the top are great!

      Our pilgrim friend Juan José had suggested we see the Casa del Monte. It houses offices and a restaurant. We went there for lunch, and the place mats were a map of the Caminos. The food was very good and I tried a local speciality, the mojete de papas.

      We also spent some time planning our next steps. We'll stop our Camino in Castro del Río, take a bus to Córdoba, and a train from there to Málaga. We'll then fly to Switzerland.      Read more

    • TravelerCamino Mozárabe 2023
      1
      Day 22

      Day 18: Alcaudete to Baena

      May 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

      Stage 18: Alcaudete to Baena, 25.7 km.
      A long stage for us.
      We left Alcaudete under the castle of the soldier monks of the Calatrava order, and first followed a small sealed road. Among the olive trees, of course! Beautiful landscapes behind us and in front of us.
      Sheep and one or two goats keep the grass short under the solar panels that supply Alcaudete with electricity.
      The sealed road gives way to a country road, over hill and dale. Did I tell you it was among the olive trees? Well, there you have it. ☺️
      At the top of a small climb, here comes the N-432 again, the Carretera de Córdoba. On this Monday morning, the big trucks still give us a few worries. Fortunately, not for long, as the Camino goes off to the right, just after passing into the province of Córdoba, and winds its way through trees. What kind of trees? Olive trees, of course! ☺️
      The Camino continues and brings us to the Laguna del Salobral, which is dry, very dry. We walk around it to get to an old railway stop. It is on the Via Verde leading to the old station of Luque, which is now a restaurant. Last year, to shorten the stage, we followed the Via Verde, and asked José Maria to pick us up with his taxi.
      This year my darling decided to go all the way. It wasn't easy, because there is no shade between here and Baena. Unless you make your own with an umbrella.
      Olive oil has made the fortune of Baena, and it doesn't stop. The old olive trees, probably centuries old, are uprooted to plant new ones, lined up to facilitate mechanisation.
      The arrival in Baena is not bucolic, far from it, but on the outskirts we see its citadel.
      And to end a beautiful day, even if it was tiring, we had a good meal at the restaurant El Primero de la Mañana.      Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Province of Córdoba, Province of Cordoba, Córdoba, Cordoba, Província de Còrdova, Kordoba, Cordoue, Cordova, コルドバ

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