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    • Dag 48

      Muxia

      7 juni 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

      A lazy morning - what a treat it is not to have to pack up each morning and jam that big sleeping bag into that tiny stuff sack.

      We found the correct path this morning up to the cross on Monte Corpino that we tried to find on our scramble up the hill yesterday. The view from there was amazing - it is such a beautiful place.

      We went back for another seafood lunch at A Marina and was joined by Eleanor from Dublin.

      We stopped at the supermarket and the bakery for some wine, bread and cheese which we had for our dinner on the terrace this evening while we watched the seagull parents and chicks on the roofs around us. They are very entertaining.

      It has been such a relaxing and enjoyable few days.

      Bela Muxia
      8 kms
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    • Dag 65

      Muxia rest day

      16 juni 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      Another tough day in the most beautiful, peaceful place. We woke late, had brekkie in our patio, cycled to remote beaches where we were the only people, had a picnic lunch and cycled home to catch up on ADMIN and washing! Then out for a lovely seafood dinner from a fishing village! The fish was so fresh and they have a local speciality - barnicles (Percebes) which we had to try. A bit difficult to get them so watch the video.
      Tomorrow and Sunday we head back to Santiago and hand back our bikes.
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    • Dag 7

      Muxia

      18 september 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      What makes the area special and holy, you ask? Well, when St James was working to promote Christianity in the Iberian peninsula, he wasn’t doing very well, and was getting discouraged. The Virgin Mary appeared to him in Muxia, arriving on a stone boat, the stones you can see formed that boat. Which encouraged him to continue. The church is in the same place, a tribute to Mary. Any experts reading this may correct me, but that is how I understand the legend.Läs mer

    • Dag 49

      When the World was Flat

      30 oktober 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      May I just say that the very blue skies of my title photo for today is a rarity rather than the norm and at the same time the Atlantic Ocean (odd writing that when the Pacific so dominates your life) was putting on a nice display of windy at the same time. But I digress, again.

      When the world was flat, the Romans believed that the western most coast of Galicia, the furthest most western tip of Europe, was the end of the world beyond which there was only mythical other worlds hidden by the setting sun.

      So pilgrims came to walk, not only to Santiago, but to the Atlantic to see the edge of the world.

      Today, as in times past, many pilgrims extend their walks to Finisterre, derived from Latin, meaning the finish or end of the earth. Cape Finisterre is the final goal to watch the sunset into the Atlantic as a symbol of the end of your journey.

      There is some historical evidence that the walk to the coast long predates the pilgrimage to Santiago and may have been part of the prior Celtic culture. This part of the Way was documented in the earliest known pilgrim guide, the Codex Calixtinus which was written in the 12th century.

      Walking to the Cape was never part of my plan but visiting was. I took the morning bus from Santiago and enjoyed a long and winding road past Finisterre to Muxia (pronounced Moo-shia) where I am spending the next week wandering, reading, contemplating the meaning of life (as all good pilgrims are required to do post pilgrimage) and possibly writing in this blog thing on occasion.

      All you need to know about Muxia so far is my little apartment has the most comfortable bed I've had el Camino and that it's great to have hair conditioner and razor blades again. And salt and butter, I've missed them too.

      One of my photos is a hint that the Camino has been calling you forever, you just couldn't interpret the message. Another photo is an indication of the sometimes very unclear Camino markers which are supposed to show you the Way.
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    • Dag 50

      There's Something about Muxia

      31 oktober 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      I'm in love with Muxia. Only time will tell if it's a fleeting and fickle love or one that will last a lifetime. I've only been here 24 hours but it's got its little 'pulpo' octopussy tentacles wrapped firmly around my wrists. Not firmly enough to try eating that stuff mind you.

      There's something about Muxia that brings out the child in me. I think it is the many paths to explore, both within the little village and across the surrounding countryside, and the moodiness of the shipwreck coast, the ancient mysteries and the windy wild hilltops. Maybe it's the freedom of being far from home with no responsibility that really brings out the child in me or the freedom to live in my imagination for longer than usual!!

      Of course, I've got to spend a week here by myself without any company (except the bus load of pilgrims that turns up every day that I can find I want to) so my love may change more to just moody by the end of the week.

      Today I wandered east out of town along the Camino path back towards Finisterre. The wind blew, the sun shone and I could see many paths ahead to explore over the coming days both along the beach and over the hills.

      I wandered through town where I got lost in the many alley ways and narrow streets lined with beautiful stone buildings and ugly contemporary ones. I gave thanks that the one local bakery appears to be a panaderie with bread and not much else rather than a patisserie or some other dangerous example like a chocolaterie.

      And I wandered west to the end of the world as they knew it, and discovered a magical little peninsula with a lighthouse, two churches, some monuments and an abundance of character and views in all directions.

      I tried to find the way to the top of the rocky hill at the end of the Peninsula to give you a bird's eye view of this quaint little place jutting out into the ocean on its own little peninsula. I didn't succeed but I did find a secret pathway, climb a big steep rock and find my inner child. I did feel that a Spanish abuela might yell at me from her casa on the hill and tell me I was not allowed to go that way. Maybe I'll find the right path tomorrow.

      I borrowed the first photo from the internet until I figure out how to get to the top of that hill near the cross.
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    • Dag 38

      Muxia

      29 augusti 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

      Jan wanted to go for a swim at the beach that was about 2k before the town.
      I wasn't up for a swim. It was more complicated for me, because I'd had to get fully changed, so I kept walking, checked in at Bela Muxia, showered, bought food, and got my Muxiana.Läs mer

    • Dag 47

      Santiago to Muxia

      6 juni 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      I had another relaxing morning laying in bed and looking out of my window to the skyline near the Cathedral. Sandra and I later walked to the bus station and caught the service to Muxia, about 90 minutes away. The weather was grey and misty and the weather app predicted 100% chance of rain all day. But when we reached the coast the sun magically appeared and the sky was blue. We are staying in lovely private rooms at Bela Muxia (another of Narelle’s exceptional recommendations).

      Muxia is beautiful. There are ocean and bay views from all directions. We scrambled up a huge hill behind our accommodation and the view was amazing (my foot is finally getting better - not quite, but enough to get around more easily). We then walked along the seaside which is lined with restaurants and chose one that specialised in Galician local seafood. It was delicious and we will try another one tomorrow. Then a quick trip to the supermarket for something easy for dinner. We finished the day by watching a pair of seagulls and their three chicks on the roof across from us. Another great day!

      Bela Muxia
      9 kms
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    • Dag 53

      Costa da Morte

      3 november 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      The Costa da Morte is a section of Spanish coastline in Galacia along the Atlantic Ocean and is otherwise known as the shipwreck coast.

      Thirty years ago Darryn and I chose to stay on the Costa del Sol, the sunshine coast of Spain, much further to the south in Andalucia. It was a little later in the year, maybe early December and we'd been camping our way around Europe in our old Volkswagen Golf. Sick of a tent we decided a couple of weeks in an apartment and in one place was a good idea and we rented a place called Costa Banana. It was long before the days of booking.com or Airbnb so I can't remember how we found it, only that it was a bargain and that we loved those weeks in Spain.

      So this week I once again find myself on the coast of Spain, renting a cute little apartment, this time with the much fancier name of Pousadas Marinieras. Again I am here after travelling for a few months, in need of staying in the same place for a little while.

      The Coast of Death has been welcoming ghosts for a very long time and seems to have continued its practice up until very recently with more than 150 shipwrecks, many in the last century. Approximately 25 ships of the Spanish Armada where wrecked here in the 1500's and English navy ships also found their home at the bottom of the ocean nearby. More recently in 2002 the Prestige sank off the coast spilling thousands of tonnes of oil and creating the worst ever environmental disaster for Spain and Portugal damaging bird and sea life along the coast for more than 1000 km.

      The peoples of this area have long been seafaring and local food is strongly influenced by the sea. The gooseneck barnacle is the prize morsel of Muxia and barnacle collection is a local tradition and art form.

      Apparently the Virgin Mary came here to Muxia in a stone boat that did not sink. She came to help St James convert the locals to Christianity. The stones of her boat are still here on the coast along with the churches built in her honour.

      Of course this wild wet coastline reminds me in many ways of home.
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    • Dag 8

      Camino Fisterre Day 5

      19 september 2022, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

      I’ve included a few shots of the sunset last night. Today is 28 km, my longest walk so far. To give myself a break, I sent a pack ahead. Actually my smaller pack, with some heavier/bulkier items. That way I still had a good fitting pack and my water system, which I put extra water into. Good thing I had leftovers yesterday, I used them for a good breakfast today.Läs mer

    • Dag 26

      Camino ich werds dir nie vergessen Nr 3

      6 juni 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      Tja geliebter Camino

      Nun findet die Reise bald ihr Ende.

      Wenn ich für gut inzwischen 3 1/2 Wochen mit verfrühter Start zurück blicke...... es kommen mir die Tränen.

      Völlig wirr und weit entfernt vom Klaus. Und doch entschlossen dir bald wieder zu folgen, dir mein Vertrauen, meine Hoffnung, meinen Mut, meine Träume, meine Zukunft anzuvertrauen.

      Im Prinzip war mir vor einem Jahr schon klar wo die Reise hingehen soll. Doch mir zwei nahe und wichtige Menschen, bremsten mich aus, zerstörten die kleine Pflanze mit nur wenigen Worten.

      Ich sehe es so, auch das Jahr zwischen war irgendwie notwendig und erfahrungsreich.

      Über Familie und beste Freundin hat Camino 1 geendet, hat aber auch Camino 2 gestartet (die bessere Variante).

      Das Los- und Zurücklassen von vielem mit Start und Abheben des Flugzeuges auch dich Camino 1.

      Der Ort des Gartens mit seinen Facetten der Türen, des Sambas. Tanz ich bin dir so dankbar, dass du zeitnah meine wichtigste Reisebgleitung, inklusive Kastanietten gewesen bist. Die Entdeckung meines ganz eigenen und individuellen Flamencos am Strand, Richtung Sonnenuntergang und das hinterlassen meiner Tanzspuren im Sand.

      Danke für die Klärung mit Russland, Ukraine und negativen Gefühlen in mir im Bezug darauf.

      Danke für die Musik am Youtube-Zufalls-Song-Tag.

      Danke für all die Bilder, Begegnungen, Interpretationen und Gespräche mit Menschen. Ob num Cow-boy, Prinz, Frosch, Pustewolf und sonstiges. Es war so notwendig Antworten zu bekommen, Prozesse zu durchlaufen, wenn man schon alles alleine zu bewältigen hat. Schmerzhafte aber dann doch stärkende Erfahrung.

      Danke für all die ganz besonderen Herbergen, mit Herz, Gastfreundschaft, Menschlichkeit, Wärme und Geborgenheit. Der Bauernhof mit Sattel im Baum und Schimmel in der Nacht, die Geburtstags-Song-Herberge, Ort des Gartens, die Nacht mit Engel-Priester-Nonne Konstellation, der geheime Ort am See mit Wasserfall, wo mir ein Mensch von seiner Selbstmordabsicht erzählte und ich hoffe ihm durch eigene Erfahrungen eine andere Sicht ermöglichen konnte. Danke für all die einsamen Zeltnächte, mit Baumhaus und Naturgeräuschkulissen.

      Danke an Adelheid 🇩🇪, Stefan 🇩🇪, Elsa 🇳🇱, Rado 🇸🇰, Katja 🇷🇺, Alina 🇺🇦, Brasilianern 🇧🇷 und vielen lieben Menschen von überall her. Sogar konnte ich meine Zukunft erzählen und bekam Rücken. 😌

      Danke Camino für deine Herausforderungen in jeden Winkel meiner Seele, erhaltenen Antworten und Erkenntnissen. Danke für den Zauber, deine Ehrlichkeit, deine Liebe und vielen Momenten für Glauben und Gott.

      Ich kann und mag gerade nicht mich an all die einzelnen Momente erinnern, aber ich nehme dich dieses Jahr viel bewusster mit zurück ins "normale" Leben und freue mich schon sehr auf das Nachwirken.

      Danke an dich,dass auch meine Reisekaravane teilhaben konnte. Danke für die Natur, die speziellen Orte , für so zahlreiche Sonnenauf- und -untergänge
      Unvergessen bleibt mir der Fingernagellack-Tag, die begeisterten Blicke der portugiesischen Omis im Café, yeah Farbe ins Innere. Danke für das Tattoo und den Tätowierer .

      Danke danke danke für so vieles unzählige mehr.

      Nach Camino 1, gab es umgehend die Planung für Camino 2. Habe gehört 🤠 soll auch kurz vor mir hier gewesen sein. Ob es stimmt? Jedenfalls bin ich meinetwegen hier gewesen, weil eins bin ich im Leben nie gewesen, ein Nachläufer. Was aus dieser Geschichte werden mag? Geschichte? Wieviel Zukunft? Ich finde es heraus und bestenfalls entscheid ichs selber. Er hat mir durch sich dennoch mehr geholfen, als außer Gott und ich selbst jemand je wissen wird. Aber ab nem bestimmten Punkt hat sichs eben ausgeschlumpft. Ich bin mir meinen Teil bewusst und wen wunderts, dass dies wohl kaum 100% sein können. Wenigstens ists mir bewusst. Ich weiß nur eins, im Leben kommt eh alles von selbst zurück und mal schauen. Ich denke eher seinerseits ist es beim alten. Muss und darf jeder für sich selbst entscheiden.

      Camino du hast mich reich beschenkt. Viel mehr als ich zu hoffen wagte.

      Ich bin nicht sicher ob, aber vielleicht irgendwann irgendwo auf deinen so zahlreichen Wegen, ja doch

      Ein Wiedersehen.

      Danke und mein Herz ❤️ für dich

      Für immer mit dir in Dankbarkeit verbunden und sei es schon alleine das Tattoo was mich nun für immer begleiten wird.
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