Spain
Tardajos

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    • Day 20

      Rabé de las Calzadas

      September 24, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

      It is said that you will travel through stages of experiences while walking the Camino; the first physical, then mental and finally spiritual. From Peg’s and my experience so far, we are hoping for a quick end to the physical stage and will welcome the mental.

      My tendon is doing amazingly well. I think the lighter days and new shoes have really helped (oh, and the miracle gel). But things were more challenging for Peg this morning. She has had a cough and stuffy head for the last couple of days. Today she woke feeling miserable. We canceled our very hard to get reservation for the night and tried to extend our stay in Burgos. Saturday night in Burgos with a fall festival was very busy with tourists and pilgrims and town was sold out. After lots of frustrations looking for a place for the night we found one.... an 8 mile walk away. It was such a relief to find a spot, but the walk was long. That said it was still a beautiful day to walk with a light sprinkle at the end.

      We had a great chat in a little bar with Beto from Mexico who is friends with the owners of Casa Ramos restaurant in Chico. What a small world. And little rewards for the day, we are in a very modern hotel that upgraded us to a two level, two bedroom suite with a living room, kitchen and most importantly, a washing machine!! The second reward was that Peg tested negative for COVID which we are hearing is making the rounds through the pilgrim family. Tomorrow’s a new day.

      Buen Camino.
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    • Day 23

      Hornillos del Camino

      October 10, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      We walked to our destination town, up on the Meseta plateau. There was an intermediate town with great murals. Followed by a steady, but not steep hill climb of about 7 kms.

      I forgot to mention, at the end of the day we hiked down a steep hill, named "Mata Mulus" which roughly translates to Mule Killer! Thanks goodness we were going downhill.Read more

    • Day 13

      The meseta

      August 4, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      Today is the start of a long section of cereal fields, mostly flat, dry, monotonous and devoid of any shade.
      I started walking with Lucía and Nico, a young American couple of Argentinian descent. They both left their jobs in Philadelphia and took time out to do the Camino from Le Puy (coincidentally, same as Fréderique) before they start a new life as members of a communal living cooperative in Rhode Island.
      Later, I walked part of the way with Fréderique. She's doing the walk to give thanks to God for curing her cancer. She told me the full story, and how puzzled the doctors were, as they couldn't explain her full recovery. We had a good chat about her reasons for believing, and mine for not believing, both respectful of the other and all in French.
      The chats make time go faster, 5 or 6k go by without noticing. I also enjoyed the parts I walked alone, I like my own time in silence 🙂
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    • Day 14

      Alone

      August 13, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

      After I passed the nice west part of Burgos with its nice parks and old buildings, the most depressing part so far started! Yesterday the Camino looked like a school excursion of 10 years old! Maybe because I started late today, maybe too many people ended their Camino in Burgos - however I almost saw nobody- no Pilgrim and almost nobody else! Wheatfields over and over and a few tiny old towns - this really feels lonely! However just when I thought about „ok, the Camino will somehow take care of me, an old nun guided me into a small chapel and gave me this necklace! She told me in Spanish that it will protect me ! Can’t hurt in this wilderness where I just saw a big snake!Read more

    • Day 15

      I arrived at the 499 km point

      October 31, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

      So I made good time, two days ahead of schedule.
      The town is called Tajardos and it's about another 12km past Burgos.

      Great sunrise, followed by grey skies and rain.
      Burgos the highlight of course, but I've seen the sights, why I kept walking. Enjoy the picturesRead more

    • Day 9

      Day Nine

      July 25, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      I am in Tardajos, the gateway to the Meseta. Today was a strange day. It was an easy walk, mostly downhill except for a brief climb across Atapuerca (see last Footprint). It is July 25, the day of St. James and with that a holiday for pilgrims.

      Reading about the draughts and famines that used to ravish the area, the deaths, and the pain those caused, followed by a stroll through a church packed to the brim with golden excess luxury, makes me contemplative. Am I in fact walking with the insignia of a movement that emphasized creating golden temples to St. James at times that cost many of the people whose tithes and taxes built them their lives. Even today, am I comfortable paying this church to enter their houses for contemplation and reflection, when the same 5€ charged for entry could feed a person a good dinner?

      I had to say good bye to Maria and Esther who are ending their Camino in Burgos, meeting Esther‘s husband and kids in Leon tomorrow. The Dutch have fallen back, I might see some of them in the coming days, but Sander is too injured to keep up.

      Injuries are abound. I am proud of not letting anyone and anything rush me, arriving exactly where I want to be, at more or less the perfect time, without killing myself uphill or downhill. I am, in fact, a few miles ahead, both due to the fact that I left Burgos today after lunch and due to being pretty unharmed, physically and emotionally.

      My ON shoes, however, had to go. My one stop in Burgos was a sports store to pick up some Merrell trail walkers, which hopefully won’t completely wear through in a matter of days. Right now they feel … weird, but I’ll wear them in, I am sure.

      The albergue I am at is the best I have been in in all of my Caminos. Great beds, great people, and a backyard with cafeteria. I am sitting outside, listening to locals chat, enjoying a Clara (half beer and half lemonade) and Patatas Bravas, typing into my iPad Mini. Tomorrow my Meseta Adventure begins, the best part of the Camino.
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    • Day 16

      Chasing adventures

      April 30 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      Adventures abound! 🌍 From extraordinary food to breathtaking vistas, every moment is a treasure. The chilly air can't dim the vibrant blue skies above us. Challenges? Oh, they've been there, weaving into our journey, urging contemplation and growth. 🤔 #AdventureTime #WanderlustRead more

    • Day 11–12

      Day 10 Cardenuela Riopico - Tardajos

      May 6 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

      24.2km (294.9 km from start). 29.000 steps. 1512 calories. 4h 40min on the road. 5.9 km/h average speed.

      Last night at hostel was quite. Lady at the bar/restaurant/hostel had pretty busy evening - she reminded me of Marge Simpson sister 😂 She was all smiles this morning when I thanked for her effort.

      Pilgrim passport is getting more and more stamps. Pilgrim pass gives access to pilgrim hostels and restaurants for pilgrim menus. Food is usually good and portions huge. We need that energy.

      Walked only 24.2 km today. 14 of those were industrial area and suburbs of Burgos - then the town itself. Just a short stop for coffee and cake and I was out of city.

      Met first Danish pilgrim today, Pernille from Gentofte. We shared the road for 3-4 km before she headed off and I stopped for the day at Tardajos. So nice with Danish language and easy going Dane.

      Hostel in Tardajos is already a disappointment. Had only 2 min warm water in shower, hospitalero (person who runes the hostel) was everything else then welcoming and warm. He spoke only Spanish and was clearly irritated that I was even there. Let’s hope diner will be nice with other fellow pilgrims.
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    • Day 15

      Day 12 - One foot in front of the other

      September 27, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

      "Stay strong as you live your life story and remember your blessings, no matter what circumstances you face." - Dr. Damary M. Bonilla-Rodriguez

      Day 12 - Burgos to Rabé de las Calzadas - 12.8 km

      Finally! I was able to have physio this morning and play stump the Physiotherapist. First you need to understand that I have weird feet. I have huge big toes and osteoarthritis in the joints of them. My toes do not bend back like most people’s toes do, and I have had tow issues when I walk, for most of my life. When I arrived, “Carlos” watched me walk and right away could see that I was pronating and quite badly on my right side. We went over what I was experiencing and he watched me walk again, but barefoot. I explained about my shoes and why I chose them (zero heel drop = no toe issues for me!!) and he seemed impressed that I not only recognized that but that it is working well for me - for toe issues. What isn’t working is how badly I am pronating. After pushing and prodding, pulling and twisting, he thinks I have a compression issue resulting in soft tissue damage and some ligament irritation. He worked the foot for quite a while and then had me walk again. He is shocked that I have learned to walk without using my toes at all. Uummm ok. I didn’t know I did that but yay me?! He gave me a soft silicone thing that has a raised egg shaped portion to it. I wear this on my foot to help with the probation and hopefully help with the compression issue. I am to try this for 3 days and call back to let him know if it has had any positive effect. Day 1 - pain seems to have moved more to where he shows me the ligament is… not sure it is helping but will stay open minded until the end of day 3. I told him if my plan to do 3 short days and he said that was the best way - and to send my pack ahead so I did not put unnecessary stress on my feet /joints. All well and good, but I didn’t do it today (has to be booked the night before), but I have booked for tomorrow.

      Today is another gratitude day:
      • Had the long sought after physio appointment
      • Walked about 13 km to this lovely little village
      • Had a hot shower!! (bliss when there is hot water!)
      • Enjoyed a glass of wine and tapas (chorizo sausage and a hard boiled egg) at a bar and sat chatting with 3 Americans for over an hour
      • Clothes getting an actual laundry wash and dry - being done for me, not by me
      • Homemade food and the chance to connect with fellow pilgrims
      • Not only got a bottom bunk, but having a room of 8 to myself!!

      I love just wandering when I get to places like this. Just discovering the town I am in, relaxing and just “being”. This town is super pretty and very well cared for. Lots of flowers in window baskets, old stone buildings and a great little bar!

      Great pilgrims dinner of homemade saffron soup with noodles, mixed salad, tortilla (Spanish potato pie almost) and yogurt for dessert. At the table we had a couple from Munich, German who walked out their front door on 8 June - and are still walking, a man from Florida who is on his 7th Camino (various routes - this one twice), a man from Indiana who sounds just like my Uncle Len, a lady from Illinois that had biked a portion of the Camino but is now walking, a lady from Ste Clair, Quebec and another from Toronto, currently living in Montreal.

      Onward tomorrow, to a small eco Albergue in the middle of nowhere. Should be interesting.
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    • Day 19

      Rabé de las Calzadas

      September 23, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

      Short 8 miles today.
      Today began the 2nd third of the Camino. It's hard to believe. I feel like I've been walking forever.
      Sometimes the path is beautiful. Sometimes it's barely a shoulder along the road. Luckily, the latter is a rarity.
      The last pic is the albergue we're staying in tonight. It's a very quiet town. Quite the change from the bustling city of Burgos.
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