Spain
Tardajos

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    • Day 6

      Camino Day 2 - Hontanas

      August 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

      We were invited into the local convent for Vespers. There was only 6 mins still living there and all above 80 year old t seems. They were so nice and gave us each a Pilgrim blessing and a medallion to keep us safe on our journey. All in Spanish, but still quite moving. A great end to our first day on the Camino.
      An early start this morning, up at 6am thanks to the church bells next door. Breakfast was served at 6:30 and we were on the road by 7:15am.
      A much cooler day today with cloud cover most of the day.
      The Meseta lived up to its reputation of vast open fields and not much shade. Stunning vistas in every direction you look.
      Couldn't find anywhere open to buy food so we pushed on till the end. Covered 20km today and everyone feels fine.
      Lunch in Hontanas, then checked into our albergue which also offers a shared meal. Very modern, very nice.
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    • Day 23

      Hornillos del Camino

      October 10, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      We walked to our destination town, up on the Meseta plateau. There was an intermediate town with great murals. Followed by a steady, but not steep hill climb of about 7 kms.

      I forgot to mention, at the end of the day we hiked down a steep hill, named "Mata Mulus" which roughly translates to Mule Killer! Thanks goodness we were going downhill.Read more

    • Day 13

      The meseta

      August 4, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      Today is the start of a long section of cereal fields, mostly flat, dry, monotonous and devoid of any shade.
      I started walking with Lucía and Nico, a young American couple of Argentinian descent. They both left their jobs in Philadelphia and took time out to do the Camino from Le Puy (coincidentally, same as Fréderique) before they start a new life as members of a communal living cooperative in Rhode Island.
      Later, I walked part of the way with Fréderique. She's doing the walk to give thanks to God for curing her cancer. She told me the full story, and how puzzled the doctors were, as they couldn't explain her full recovery. We had a good chat about her reasons for believing, and mine for not believing, both respectful of the other and all in French.
      The chats make time go faster, 5 or 6k go by without noticing. I also enjoyed the parts I walked alone, I like my own time in silence 🙂
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    • Day 14

      Alone

      August 13, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

      After I passed the nice west part of Burgos with its nice parks and old buildings, the most depressing part so far started! Yesterday the Camino looked like a school excursion of 10 years old! Maybe because I started late today, maybe too many people ended their Camino in Burgos - however I almost saw nobody- no Pilgrim and almost nobody else! Wheatfields over and over and a few tiny old towns - this really feels lonely! However just when I thought about „ok, the Camino will somehow take care of me, an old nun guided me into a small chapel and gave me this necklace! She told me in Spanish that it will protect me ! Can’t hurt in this wilderness where I just saw a big snake!Read more

    • Day 15

      I arrived at the 499 km point

      October 31, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

      So I made good time, two days ahead of schedule.
      The town is called Tajardos and it's about another 12km past Burgos.

      Great sunrise, followed by grey skies and rain.
      Burgos the highlight of course, but I've seen the sights, why I kept walking. Enjoy the picturesRead more

    • Day 9

      Day Nine

      July 25, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      I am in Tardajos, the gateway to the Meseta. Today was a strange day. It was an easy walk, mostly downhill except for a brief climb across Atapuerca (see last Footprint). It is July 25, the day of St. James and with that a holiday for pilgrims.

      Reading about the draughts and famines that used to ravish the area, the deaths, and the pain those caused, followed by a stroll through a church packed to the brim with golden excess luxury, makes me contemplative. Am I in fact walking with the insignia of a movement that emphasized creating golden temples to St. James at times that cost many of the people whose tithes and taxes built them their lives. Even today, am I comfortable paying this church to enter their houses for contemplation and reflection, when the same 5€ charged for entry could feed a person a good dinner?

      I had to say good bye to Maria and Esther who are ending their Camino in Burgos, meeting Esther‘s husband and kids in Leon tomorrow. The Dutch have fallen back, I might see some of them in the coming days, but Sander is too injured to keep up.

      Injuries are abound. I am proud of not letting anyone and anything rush me, arriving exactly where I want to be, at more or less the perfect time, without killing myself uphill or downhill. I am, in fact, a few miles ahead, both due to the fact that I left Burgos today after lunch and due to being pretty unharmed, physically and emotionally.

      My ON shoes, however, had to go. My one stop in Burgos was a sports store to pick up some Merrell trail walkers, which hopefully won’t completely wear through in a matter of days. Right now they feel … weird, but I’ll wear them in, I am sure.

      The albergue I am at is the best I have been in in all of my Caminos. Great beds, great people, and a backyard with cafeteria. I am sitting outside, listening to locals chat, enjoying a Clara (half beer and half lemonade) and Patatas Bravas, typing into my iPad Mini. Tomorrow my Meseta Adventure begins, the best part of the Camino.
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    • Day 11–12

      Day 10 Cardenuela Riopico - Tardajos

      Yesterday in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

      24.2km (294.9 km from start). 29.000 steps. 1512 calories. 4h 40min on the road. 5.9 km/h average speed.

      Last night at hostel was quite. Lady at the bar/restaurant/hostel had pretty busy evening - she reminded me of Marge Simpson sister 😂 She was all smiles this morning when I thanked for her effort.

      Pilgrim passport is getting more and more stamps. Pilgrim pass gives access to pilgrim hostels and restaurants for pilgrim menus. Food is usually good and portions huge. We need that energy.

      Walked only 24.2 km today. 14 of those were industrial area and suburbs of Burgos - then the town itself. Just a short stop for coffee and cake and I was out of city.

      Met first Danish pilgrim today, Pernille from Gentofte. We shared the road for 3-4 km before she headed off and I stopped for the day at Tardajos. So nice with Danish language and easy going Dane.

      Hostel in Tardajos is already a disappointment. Had only 2 min warm water in shower, hospitalero (person who runes the hostel) was everything else then welcoming and warm. He spoke only Spanish and was clearly irritated that I was even there. Let’s hope diner will be nice with other fellow pilgrims.
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    • Day 18

      Burgos to Hontanas - part one

      April 9 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ -1 °C

      A big day of firsts for this tiny trekker!

      1. First day of the Meseta, the plateau between Burgos and Leon.

      2. First blister, a cute little thing on the tip of my second left toe.

      3. First time needing to walk with the USB lid powering my med canister as I haven't had access to a freezer in Burgos for the cold brick.

      4. First 30km+ day on the trail - there have been other days over that but only including post-walk (what I'm calling 'after work') wandering around the town, where as purely albergue to albergue today is 32km.

      The bunks at the municipal in Burgos have completely nuked my back, and I'm honestly shocked I walked nearly 35km all told today. It was not great in the morning, loosened up about the 20km mark, but luckily it was pretty much the best case scenario terrain for the pain - extremely flat and reliable footing.

      I woke up every hour between midnight and three and got up at 3.45am, reading by the light of a vending machine and having my first two of what ended up being a four coffee day. When the doors opened at 6.30am I was off like a hobbled shot, weaving through dark streets to reach frosted fields on the edge of the city. Between the rain yesterday and a cold front overnight, I watched my breath billow and heard my footsteps crunch in the 1 degree stillness.

      I was inspired to listen to the whole Purple Rain album after that bar last night and, I dunno how recently you have, but I must say that When Doves Cry and PR are head and shoulders above the rest of the dross on that record my goodness.
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    • Day 19

      Rabé de las Calzadas

      September 23, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

      Short 8 miles today.
      Today began the 2nd third of the Camino. It's hard to believe. I feel like I've been walking forever.
      Sometimes the path is beautiful. Sometimes it's barely a shoulder along the road. Luckily, the latter is a rarity.
      The last pic is the albergue we're staying in tonight. It's a very quiet town. Quite the change from the bustling city of Burgos.
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    • Day 28

      La Meseta Centrale, nous y sommes !

      May 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

      Chemin de Compostelle 20/40
      Étape #13. Camino francés" Burgos à Hontanas. Kilomètres parcourus: 31,4 km. Cumulatif : 548,7 km, de moyenne 25,6 par jour. Étapes restantes avant Saint-Jacques de Compostelle : 19.

      Départ à 7h avec une température approchant le point de congélation (2c) puis 2h20 plus tard et plus de 11 km de foulés, nous sommes arrivés à Tardados pour prendre notre petit déjeuner et nous reposer un peu. Heureusement la température augmente un peu : 9c à 9h45.

      Hier nous nous sommes procuré des chandails mieux adaptés à la marche et ces vêtements on fait toute une différence. On doit s'adapter à ce froid rapidement.

      Notre cadence était assez rapide ce matin 4,6 km/h. et nous avec avons complété notre rando avec un excellent temps : 6h42.

      La Meseta Centrale nous y sommes. Pour le moment ce sont des plaines à perte de vue et nous sommes à une altitude de plus de 900 mètres. À cette altitude, les éoliennes sont nos voisines. On a donc réussi cette première étape.

      Nous sommes arrivés à l’albergue vers 15h. Très bel endroit coté 9,2 sur “Booking”.
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