Spanien
Tardajos

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    • Dag 6

      Camino Day 2 - Hontanas

      25. august 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

      We were invited into the local convent for Vespers. There was only 6 mins still living there and all above 80 year old t seems. They were so nice and gave us each a Pilgrim blessing and a medallion to keep us safe on our journey. All in Spanish, but still quite moving. A great end to our first day on the Camino.
      An early start this morning, up at 6am thanks to the church bells next door. Breakfast was served at 6:30 and we were on the road by 7:15am.
      A much cooler day today with cloud cover most of the day.
      The Meseta lived up to its reputation of vast open fields and not much shade. Stunning vistas in every direction you look.
      Couldn't find anywhere open to buy food so we pushed on till the end. Covered 20km today and everyone feels fine.
      Lunch in Hontanas, then checked into our albergue which also offers a shared meal. Very modern, very nice.
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    • Dag 23

      Hornillos del Camino

      10. oktober 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      We walked to our destination town, up on the Meseta plateau. There was an intermediate town with great murals. Followed by a steady, but not steep hill climb of about 7 kms.

      I forgot to mention, at the end of the day we hiked down a steep hill, named "Mata Mulus" which roughly translates to Mule Killer! Thanks goodness we were going downhill.Læs mere

    • Dag 13

      The meseta

      4. august 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      Today is the start of a long section of cereal fields, mostly flat, dry, monotonous and devoid of any shade.
      I started walking with Lucía and Nico, a young American couple of Argentinian descent. They both left their jobs in Philadelphia and took time out to do the Camino from Le Puy (coincidentally, same as Fréderique) before they start a new life as members of a communal living cooperative in Rhode Island.
      Later, I walked part of the way with Fréderique. She's doing the walk to give thanks to God for curing her cancer. She told me the full story, and how puzzled the doctors were, as they couldn't explain her full recovery. We had a good chat about her reasons for believing, and mine for not believing, both respectful of the other and all in French.
      The chats make time go faster, 5 or 6k go by without noticing. I also enjoyed the parts I walked alone, I like my own time in silence 🙂
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    • Dag 14

      Alone

      13. august 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

      After I passed the nice west part of Burgos with its nice parks and old buildings, the most depressing part so far started! Yesterday the Camino looked like a school excursion of 10 years old! Maybe because I started late today, maybe too many people ended their Camino in Burgos - however I almost saw nobody- no Pilgrim and almost nobody else! Wheatfields over and over and a few tiny old towns - this really feels lonely! However just when I thought about „ok, the Camino will somehow take care of me, an old nun guided me into a small chapel and gave me this necklace! She told me in Spanish that it will protect me ! Can’t hurt in this wilderness where I just saw a big snake!Læs mere

    • Dag 15

      I arrived at the 499 km point

      31. oktober 2022, Spanien ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

      So I made good time, two days ahead of schedule.
      The town is called Tajardos and it's about another 12km past Burgos.

      Great sunrise, followed by grey skies and rain.
      Burgos the highlight of course, but I've seen the sights, why I kept walking. Enjoy the picturesLæs mere

    • Dag 9

      Day Nine

      25. juli 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      I am in Tardajos, the gateway to the Meseta. Today was a strange day. It was an easy walk, mostly downhill except for a brief climb across Atapuerca (see last Footprint). It is July 25, the day of St. James and with that a holiday for pilgrims.

      Reading about the draughts and famines that used to ravish the area, the deaths, and the pain those caused, followed by a stroll through a church packed to the brim with golden excess luxury, makes me contemplative. Am I in fact walking with the insignia of a movement that emphasized creating golden temples to St. James at times that cost many of the people whose tithes and taxes built them their lives. Even today, am I comfortable paying this church to enter their houses for contemplation and reflection, when the same 5€ charged for entry could feed a person a good dinner?

      I had to say good bye to Maria and Esther who are ending their Camino in Burgos, meeting Esther‘s husband and kids in Leon tomorrow. The Dutch have fallen back, I might see some of them in the coming days, but Sander is too injured to keep up.

      Injuries are abound. I am proud of not letting anyone and anything rush me, arriving exactly where I want to be, at more or less the perfect time, without killing myself uphill or downhill. I am, in fact, a few miles ahead, both due to the fact that I left Burgos today after lunch and due to being pretty unharmed, physically and emotionally.

      My ON shoes, however, had to go. My one stop in Burgos was a sports store to pick up some Merrell trail walkers, which hopefully won’t completely wear through in a matter of days. Right now they feel … weird, but I’ll wear them in, I am sure.

      The albergue I am at is the best I have been in in all of my Caminos. Great beds, great people, and a backyard with cafeteria. I am sitting outside, listening to locals chat, enjoying a Clara (half beer and half lemonade) and Patatas Bravas, typing into my iPad Mini. Tomorrow my Meseta Adventure begins, the best part of the Camino.
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    • Dag 11–12

      Day 10 Cardenuela Riopico - Tardajos

      6. maj, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

      24.2km (294.9 km from start). 29.000 steps. 1512 calories. 4h 40min on the road. 5.9 km/h average speed.

      Last night at hostel was quite. Lady at the bar/restaurant/hostel had pretty busy evening - she reminded me of Marge Simpson sister 😂 She was all smiles this morning when I thanked for her effort.

      Pilgrim passport is getting more and more stamps. Pilgrim pass gives access to pilgrim hostels and restaurants for pilgrim menus. Food is usually good and portions huge. We need that energy.

      Walked only 24.2 km today. 14 of those were industrial area and suburbs of Burgos - then the town itself. Just a short stop for coffee and cake and I was out of city.

      Met first Danish pilgrim today, Pernille from Gentofte. We shared the road for 3-4 km before she headed off and I stopped for the day at Tardajos. So nice with Danish language and easy going Dane.

      Hostel in Tardajos is already a disappointment. Had only 2 min warm water in shower, hospitalero (person who runes the hostel) was everything else then welcoming and warm. He spoke only Spanish and was clearly irritated that I was even there. Let’s hope diner will be nice with other fellow pilgrims.
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    • Dag 15

      Day 12 - One foot in front of the other

      27. september 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

      "Stay strong as you live your life story and remember your blessings, no matter what circumstances you face." - Dr. Damary M. Bonilla-Rodriguez

      Day 12 - Burgos to Rabé de las Calzadas - 12.8 km

      Finally! I was able to have physio this morning and play stump the Physiotherapist. First you need to understand that I have weird feet. I have huge big toes and osteoarthritis in the joints of them. My toes do not bend back like most people’s toes do, and I have had tow issues when I walk, for most of my life. When I arrived, “Carlos” watched me walk and right away could see that I was pronating and quite badly on my right side. We went over what I was experiencing and he watched me walk again, but barefoot. I explained about my shoes and why I chose them (zero heel drop = no toe issues for me!!) and he seemed impressed that I not only recognized that but that it is working well for me - for toe issues. What isn’t working is how badly I am pronating. After pushing and prodding, pulling and twisting, he thinks I have a compression issue resulting in soft tissue damage and some ligament irritation. He worked the foot for quite a while and then had me walk again. He is shocked that I have learned to walk without using my toes at all. Uummm ok. I didn’t know I did that but yay me?! He gave me a soft silicone thing that has a raised egg shaped portion to it. I wear this on my foot to help with the probation and hopefully help with the compression issue. I am to try this for 3 days and call back to let him know if it has had any positive effect. Day 1 - pain seems to have moved more to where he shows me the ligament is… not sure it is helping but will stay open minded until the end of day 3. I told him if my plan to do 3 short days and he said that was the best way - and to send my pack ahead so I did not put unnecessary stress on my feet /joints. All well and good, but I didn’t do it today (has to be booked the night before), but I have booked for tomorrow.

      Today is another gratitude day:
      • Had the long sought after physio appointment
      • Walked about 13 km to this lovely little village
      • Had a hot shower!! (bliss when there is hot water!)
      • Enjoyed a glass of wine and tapas (chorizo sausage and a hard boiled egg) at a bar and sat chatting with 3 Americans for over an hour
      • Clothes getting an actual laundry wash and dry - being done for me, not by me
      • Homemade food and the chance to connect with fellow pilgrims
      • Not only got a bottom bunk, but having a room of 8 to myself!!

      I love just wandering when I get to places like this. Just discovering the town I am in, relaxing and just “being”. This town is super pretty and very well cared for. Lots of flowers in window baskets, old stone buildings and a great little bar!

      Great pilgrims dinner of homemade saffron soup with noodles, mixed salad, tortilla (Spanish potato pie almost) and yogurt for dessert. At the table we had a couple from Munich, German who walked out their front door on 8 June - and are still walking, a man from Florida who is on his 7th Camino (various routes - this one twice), a man from Indiana who sounds just like my Uncle Len, a lady from Illinois that had biked a portion of the Camino but is now walking, a lady from Ste Clair, Quebec and another from Toronto, currently living in Montreal.

      Onward tomorrow, to a small eco Albergue in the middle of nowhere. Should be interesting.
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    • Dag 19

      Rabé de las Calzadas

      23. september 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

      Short 8 miles today.
      Today began the 2nd third of the Camino. It's hard to believe. I feel like I've been walking forever.
      Sometimes the path is beautiful. Sometimes it's barely a shoulder along the road. Luckily, the latter is a rarity.
      The last pic is the albergue we're staying in tonight. It's a very quiet town. Quite the change from the bustling city of Burgos.
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    • Dag 28

      La Meseta Centrale, nous y sommes !

      16. maj 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

      Chemin de Compostelle 20/40
      Étape #13. Camino francés" Burgos à Hontanas. Kilomètres parcourus: 31,4 km. Cumulatif : 548,7 km, de moyenne 25,6 par jour. Étapes restantes avant Saint-Jacques de Compostelle : 19.

      Départ à 7h avec une température approchant le point de congélation (2c) puis 2h20 plus tard et plus de 11 km de foulés, nous sommes arrivés à Tardados pour prendre notre petit déjeuner et nous reposer un peu. Heureusement la température augmente un peu : 9c à 9h45.

      Hier nous nous sommes procuré des chandails mieux adaptés à la marche et ces vêtements on fait toute une différence. On doit s'adapter à ce froid rapidement.

      Notre cadence était assez rapide ce matin 4,6 km/h. et nous avec avons complété notre rando avec un excellent temps : 6h42.

      La Meseta Centrale nous y sommes. Pour le moment ce sont des plaines à perte de vue et nous sommes à une altitude de plus de 900 mètres. À cette altitude, les éoliennes sont nos voisines. On a donc réussi cette première étape.

      Nous sommes arrivés à l’albergue vers 15h. Très bel endroit coté 9,2 sur “Booking”.
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