Spain
Valverde de la Virgen

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    • Day 26

      Day 20 - León to San Martin

      July 29 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      Actually it is Day 21 on the Camino but Day 20 of walking. A quiet 24 KMs of walking today. An early start because of predicted temperatures, but really pleasant leaving the city in the dark with temperatures around 22-24.

      Fields of corn everywhere today, water canals with fast flowing water 🌊, and busy roads.

      We chose to walk the shorter route through Villadangos, which had less pavement but ran alongside the highway. Our reward was meeting a lovely french lady called Charlotte who we had breakfast with (bacon and eggs - it was worth the wait).

      We stopped in San Martin and farewelled Charlotte, as with fresh legs she was continuing on. Our Albergue is definitely the best we have stayed at yet. An air conditioned room, modern facilities, a pool, and an excellent bar and restaurant. Really lovely staff as well - makes all the difference.

      Stay warm over the next few days everyone.
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    • Day 4

      Walking Day 1, León to Villar de Mazarif

      May 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

      Walking through Leon was difficult for me because the yellow arrows were difficult to see while watching for traffic and the uneven pavement ect. Sad to say that because of my vision i would not be able to do urban sections solo. Once outside the city, i did well. I'm glad i made the commitment to learn some español, it was very useful today. I spoke with an older local man who visited his professor son in Mexico recently, and also my albergues roommate from Chile, A kind S Korean woman gave us fresh cherries. The only annoyance is the rude cyclist that fly by with no warning and don't give me. any berth. I'm learning to look behind me and hold my poles horizontal to force them over. We stopped for coffee and baño at an improv stand asking only for donations. He had a world map and asked us to put a marker dot on our home location. It's so amazing that I am actually here and doing this! (i just teared up writing that) My feet, however are not that thrilledRead more

    • Day 20

      Leaving Leon !

      April 29, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

      Today started kind of hectic - left my bag w all my stuff (wallet, passport, pilgrim’s credential) at my hotel and had to taxi back for it and then taxi back to where I was. However, I fell back into the rhythm of things ! The trail was right next to the highway the entire day today, which meant I spent more time listening to audiobooks trying to drown out the cars than I usually do. I arrived in the town I originally planned to stay - San Martín Del Camino - too early (noon) and I was having fun trying to converse w a French lady who spoke zero English but spoke Spanish to the same level I do. Although we were able to communicate pretty well via Spanish, a lot of the ‘conversation’ was just us laughing because we were mutually struggling to communicate. Anyway, I decided to walk 5 mi further than previously anticipated to Hospital de Órbigo. I love this town and the albergue I’m staying in tonight so much that I’ll dedicate a later second post to it !Read more

    • Day 27–29

      Day 23 and 24 Leon Day 25 San Martin

      May 4 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

      We arrived in Leon after a 25km day. We are ready for a rest day tomorrow. Because almost everyone takes a rest day in Leon, Day 24 had us catching up to people we haven't seen in awhile. Really nice to hear how everyone's journey is going. Day 25 - it's s raining...hard. We head out for our 25 km day walking through suburbs, industrial areas all by the highway in the rain, what a slog🤪. We say goodbye to the Mesaeta and start our 3rd and last part of our journey.🤗. Onwards!Read more

    • Day 27

      Day 28. Vilar de Mazerife

      May 26, 2023 in Spain

      Awoke at 6:00 am after a restless night to loud singing and carousing that sounded close to our window. Cathy, who had not slept well, said it had gone on all night. I guess I must have gotten more sleep than she did because I hadn’t heard a thing to that point.
      We went to 8:00 am breakfast where we met the same people who were there yesterday: three Canadians and a British couple. The camaraderie we had created yesterday just continued from where it had left off. In fact, one of the ladies, Laurel, who has worked at Plumber’s Lodge , out on the east arm of Great Slave Lake, told us the receptionist complained about noise made by loud “Americans “ at yesterday’s breakfast.
      It took us over an hour to get out of Leon encountering many parents walking their children to school. We had to pay close attention to follow the Camino signs - yellow arrows and shells - competing with the many other signs in a busy city. There was a fork in the path allowing us to continue following a direct route along the highway, but we opted for the more scenic, and longer, rural route next to the open scrubland paramo. Once we got past Virgen de Camino, a Leon suburb I assume, there were no facilities open right up to Mazarife. Despite being her first day, Cathy held up well on this 21 km walk.
      On today’s walk, we reconnected with Jim, from California/Mexico who was recovering from having had imbibed too much the night before. His pace was down to a crawl, but Raymond, from Germany, tagged along to keep him company. We also met Jack, from Boston, on the Camino without his wife, because “ she’s not cut out for this.” He had hoped to be further than this, but was laid up with the flu for over a week, staying in hotels rather than auberges. He relented into taking a bus from Burgos to Leon. Jack shared with us that he “ suffers from knowing what others should be doing.” I guess we all suffer from that to varying degrees.
      Overall, though a great start for Cathy, but it doesn’t get any easier; tomorrow’s 31 km challenge will be another test.
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    • Day 22

      Day 20 walking!

      May 29 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      So having bought walking sandals in León, today I started walking again - hooray!!
      As the first 8.5Km was walking out of urban Leon, we opted to get the bus out to La Virgen del Camino, and started walking from there, it was nice to see urban Leon disappearing behind as we went forward into the countryside side again.
      There have been various stages of the Camino where it rather boringly follows the road and there are alternative green routes which are more interesting and we took one of those. It was so nice to be walking again and seeing the wild flowers including wild lavender, and the birds, and hearing a cuckoo again today! There were mountains to the right/north of us with what looked like snow on top ?!
      We passed through couple of villages and after 14km arrived at our Albergue San Antonio Padua in Villar de Mazarife and have lovely cool private room and bathroom - bliss!
      It’s a village with a shop and a few Albergues and we sat and eat an ice cream watching the world go by! Because this village is slightly off the normal Camino route, it is quieter and we had lovely communal meal prepared by the friendly hosting family. I think the Camino must bring welcome revenue to some very quiet villages.
      It was good to do a shorter walk today and I took it fairly slowly in my new walking sandals - must confess, never imagined wearing socks and sandals before - not the greatest look!!!
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    • Day 25

      Leon (la Virgen del camino) to Hospital

      June 15 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

      An early start for what promises to be a long day however for various reasons we decided to get a head start by taking a taxi to the outskirts of Leon - a place called La Virgen del Camino. To be honest I was feeling very guilty about this loss of 7k but given that I walked over 32k today I think it was probably for the best. Regardless I have a bit of a swollen ankle. This doesn’t hurt at all and has benefited from the hammocks and the yoga room at Casa Verde where we are staying tonight but unfortunately something I need to keep an eye on. While we’re on the boring subject of injuries the left knee problem has disappeared completely which I’m very happy about.
      Cress and I took different routes today. I decided to take the longer one which avoids the roads and takes you right out into the countryside. I started walking around 6.45 having failed to find anywhere open for coffee in La Virgen del Camino. The temperature was an icy 7c with a strong wind right from the start. But a bright blue sky all day. The walk was immediately beautiful but my hands were so cold they were painful.
      Passed a couple of villages where nowhere was open and then finally came to Oncina de la Valdoncina where I recognised a place where Caroline and I had breakfast last year (outside, when it was 20c warmer!). Although it didn’t look open I took a chance and pushed the door and found that they were just about open. They were kind enough to give me a coffee (2 in the end) and some tortilla and I gradually warmed up.
      Continued on, seemed to be the only person in the world, until finally came across Ginnie and Scott from Oregon. They were walking roughly the same speed as me so we talked for a while.
      After leaving them Peter Jacob, a cyclist from Holland (who has cycled from Holland) stopped cycling and walked with me for a while. Interesting chat about his trip, people he has met and about The Peter way - a walking route from north to south Holland. Will be looking into this!
      I was ready for another break in Vilar de Mazarife but arrived a bit early and found the shop still shut. There talked for a while to an elderly lady, Conchita, who was very concerned that I had t got a coat. Explained that what I was wearing was all I had but I was warming up and would be fine.
      Wildlife today started with rabbits, continued with storks following the tractors and the whole time accompanied by the croaking of frogs from the ditch that ran along the right side of the path.
      I was walking for a long time but it was fairly level terrain and I was feeling very happy. Lots of time to myself interspersed with interesting conversations with people I will probably never see again. Camino life!
      Arrived at Casa Verde around 2.30. My favourite hostal (tho again had trouble finding it). Since arriving I’ve showered, done my washing, relaxed in a hammock, done some yoga and stretches in the yoga room and eaten a delicious vegetarian dinner prepared with ingredients from the garden here. Perfect.
      Only three of us here tonight - we have had a very Spanish speaking evening (good for my Spanish) with a woman from southern Spain with a very strong andaluz accent. So I could understand some but by no means all. It was an intersection evening. Don’t think we’ll see her again as she’s walking 40 k a day despite injuries.
      So tired now so hoping for an early night.
      Forgot to add that it was a day of doors- too many to add them all.
      And listen to the sound on the video - frogs croaking!
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    • Day 32

      Day 31. Leon to San Martin del Camino

      June 15 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

      Today leaving Leon, we ran into our friend’s Edelweiss and Mia. I thought they were way ahead of us. It was fun seeing them again. Today we had a choice of 2 routes. The original or the optional. We were doing the original. For some reason the marking of the trail was not very clear and we ended up on the other path. When we discovered it, we were about a mile in and had to turn around and retrace our steps. The walk today was nothing special. It was mainly next to a highway. No beautiful scenery but we did go through Valverde and they had some storks. The babies were huge! We walked 15.3 miles (35005 steps). Grateful we weren’t in further on the wrong trail, grateful for the beautiful weather and grateful for the ability to call my son and motherRead more

    • Day 25

      Leon to Villar de Mazarife

      April 16 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

      I'm in love with it all again. I had three breakfasts, that probably helped - a free coffee and cereal at the hostel, a pastry and an empanada from the supermarket, then a bit of french toast as a tapas with a coffee.

      It's an interesting trend emerging that if I plot all the valleys of my mood, they're always in cities - Pamplona, Logrono, Burgos, Leon. I have theories but I need to chew on them longer.

      A grubby and uninspiring 10km to leave Leon but then the path split and you could take the southern, slightly longer but more rural route or the northern one which follows the highway. They coalesce in about 45km so unless you're up for an extremely long day, whatever you choose informs where you stay tonight, or vice versa.

      I obviously went southern, and the landscape change was instantaneous compared to the Meseta (which some would argue I'm still in for another day but eh). It was beautiful in a new and different way.

      I stepped off the dirt road for a tractor to pass and he stopped, opened the door and asked me something. I apologised I didn't speak Spanish very well, at which he, continuing in Spanish, said nonsense yes you do, and then I miraculously did sort of understand what he repeated. He was telling me, I think, that if I wanted he could give me a lift to the town 10km away.

      I explained that no as a pilgrim sort of the whole point was to walk. As he was driving off I ruefully wondered if he'd have let me sit in the scoopy attachment bit on the back and thought about waving him down. Then I remembered one probably shouldn't get into vehicles with strange men in the middle of nowhere, even if you could outrun both of them if you need.

      About an hour later he passed me coming back the other way, tooted the horn and gave me a big wave. I bet he WOULD have let me sit in the scoopy bit and not murdered me even a little bit. What a waste.

      Continuing the theme, I've certainly felt safer in an albergue, but I'm sure it'll be fine, I'm on a top bunk and I do think I'll have notice if anything goes sideways. If needs be, tell Interpol it's the Jesus one, first on the left as you come into town.
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    • Day 24

      Oncina de la Valdoncina

      June 26 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

      Relaxing whilst dinner is made for one weary peregrino and one peregrina. Most blessed. A kind lady on the local bus spotted me 0.30 cents and insisted I take her seat as I am a peregrino. People with passion, love and faith. Siempre.

      A TORMENTA (thunderstorm) blessed us during dinner but failed to break the heat. Olga our hospalitero is a hippy who travels to the Canaries during the winter months.
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