Spain
Valverde de la Virgen

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    • Day 25

      Leon to Villar de Mazarife

      April 16 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

      I'm in love with it all again. I had three breakfasts, that probably helped - a free coffee and cereal at the hostel, a pastry and an empanada from the supermarket, then a bit of french toast as a tapas with a coffee.

      It's an interesting trend emerging that if I plot all the valleys of my mood, they're always in cities - Pamplona, Logrono, Burgos, Leon. I have theories but I need to chew on them longer.

      A grubby and uninspiring 10km to leave Leon but then the path split and you could take the southern, slightly longer but more rural route or the northern one which follows the highway. They coalesce in about 45km so unless you're up for an extremely long day, whatever you choose informs where you stay tonight, or vice versa.

      I obviously went southern, and the landscape change was instantaneous compared to the Meseta (which some would argue I'm still in for another day but eh). It was beautiful in a new and different way.

      I stepped off the dirt road for a tractor to pass and he stopped, opened the door and asked me something. I apologised I didn't speak Spanish very well, at which he, continuing in Spanish, said nonsense yes you do, and then I miraculously did sort of understand what he repeated. He was telling me, I think, that if I wanted he could give me a lift to the town 10km away.

      I explained that no as a pilgrim sort of the whole point was to walk. As he was driving off I ruefully wondered if he'd have let me sit in the scoopy attachment bit on the back and thought about waving him down. Then I remembered one probably shouldn't get into vehicles with strange men in the middle of nowhere, even if you could outrun both of them if you need.

      About an hour later he passed me coming back the other way, tooted the horn and gave me a big wave. I bet he WOULD have let me sit in the scoopy bit and not murdered me even a little bit. What a waste.

      Continuing the theme, I've certainly felt safer in an albergue, but I'm sure it'll be fine, I'm on a top bunk and I do think I'll have notice if anything goes sideways. If needs be, tell Interpol it's the Jesus one, first on the left as you come into town.
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    • Day 22

      Day 20 walking!

      May 29 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      So having bought walking sandals in León, today I started walking again - hooray!!
      As the first 8.5Km was walking out of urban Leon, we opted to get the bus out to La Virgen del Camino, and started walking from there, it was nice to see urban Leon disappearing behind as we went forward into the countryside side again.
      There have been various stages of the Camino where it rather boringly follows the road and there are alternative green routes which are more interesting and we took one of those. It was so nice to be walking again and seeing the wild flowers including wild lavender, and the birds, and hearing a cuckoo again today! There were mountains to the right/north of us with what looked like snow on top ?!
      We passed through couple of villages and after 14km arrived at our Albergue San Antonio Padua in Villar de Mazarife and have lovely cool private room and bathroom - bliss!
      It’s a village with a shop and a few Albergues and we sat and eat an ice cream watching the world go by! Because this village is slightly off the normal Camino route, it is quieter and we had lovely communal meal prepared by the friendly hosting family. I think the Camino must bring welcome revenue to some very quiet villages.
      It was good to do a shorter walk today and I took it fairly slowly in my new walking sandals - must confess, never imagined wearing socks and sandals before - not the greatest look!!!
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    • Day 32

      Day 31. Leon to San Martin del Camino

      June 15 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

      Today leaving Leon, we ran into our friend’s Edelweiss and Mia. I thought they were way ahead of us. It was fun seeing them again. Today we had a choice of 2 routes. The original or the optional. We were doing the original. For some reason the marking of the trail was not very clear and we ended up on the other path. When we discovered it, we were about a mile in and had to turn around and retrace our steps. The walk today was nothing special. It was mainly next to a highway. No beautiful scenery but we did go through Valverde and they had some storks. The babies were huge! We walked 15.3 miles (35005 steps). Grateful we weren’t in further on the wrong trail, grateful for the beautiful weather and grateful for the ability to call my son and motherRead more

    • Day 25

      Leon (la Virgen del camino) to Hospital

      June 15 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

      An early start for what promises to be a long day however for various reasons we decided to get a head start by taking a taxi to the outskirts of Leon - a place called La Virgen del Camino. To be honest I was feeling very guilty about this loss of 7k but given that I walked over 32k today I think it was probably for the best. Regardless I have a bit of a swollen ankle. This doesn’t hurt at all and has benefited from the hammocks and the yoga room at Casa Verde where we are staying tonight but unfortunately something I need to keep an eye on. While we’re on the boring subject of injuries the left knee problem has disappeared completely which I’m very happy about.
      Cress and I took different routes today. I decided to take the longer one which avoids the roads and takes you right out into the countryside. I started walking around 6.45 having failed to find anywhere open for coffee in La Virgen del Camino. The temperature was an icy 7c with a strong wind right from the start. But a bright blue sky all day. The walk was immediately beautiful but my hands were so cold they were painful.
      Passed a couple of villages where nowhere was open and then finally came to Oncina de la Valdoncina where I recognised a place where Caroline and I had breakfast last year (outside, when it was 20c warmer!). Although it didn’t look open I took a chance and pushed the door and found that they were just about open. They were kind enough to give me a coffee (2 in the end) and some tortilla and I gradually warmed up.
      Continued on, seemed to be the only person in the world, until finally came across Ginnie and Scott from Oregon. They were walking roughly the same speed as me so we talked for a while.
      After leaving them Peter Jacob, a cyclist from Holland (who has cycled from Holland) stopped cycling and walked with me for a while. Interesting chat about his trip, people he has met and about The Peter way - a walking route from north to south Holland. Will be looking into this!
      I was ready for another break in Vilar de Mazarife but arrived a bit early and found the shop still shut. There talked for a while to an elderly lady, Conchita, who was very concerned that I had t got a coat. Explained that what I was wearing was all I had but I was warming up and would be fine.
      Wildlife today started with rabbits, continued with storks following the tractors and the whole time accompanied by the croaking of frogs from the ditch that ran along the right side of the path.
      I was walking for a long time but it was fairly level terrain and I was feeling very happy. Lots of time to myself interspersed with interesting conversations with people I will probably never see again. Camino life!
      Arrived at Casa Verde around 2.30. My favourite hostal (tho again had trouble finding it). Since arriving I’ve showered, done my washing, relaxed in a hammock, done some yoga and stretches in the yoga room and eaten a delicious vegetarian dinner prepared with ingredients from the garden here. Perfect.
      Only three of us here tonight - we have had a very Spanish speaking evening (good for my Spanish) with a woman from southern Spain with a very strong andaluz accent. So I could understand some but by no means all. It was an intersection evening. Don’t think we’ll see her again as she’s walking 40 k a day despite injuries.
      So tired now so hoping for an early night.
      Forgot to add that it was a day of doors- too many to add them all.
      And listen to the sound on the video - frogs croaking!
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    • Day 32

      Cute little Coffee Pause

      June 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

      Domus Oncinae is an unexpected gem. We had a delightful stop with friendly people (se habla Ingles). I almost want to stay.... But we have only done 12km- less than 1/2 of our goal for the day.

      We are taking the "alternate" route after León which adds about 4km to the day, but so far has been relaxing and pretty. We are seeing raptors and hearing songbirds instead of hiking alongside a major highway with the melody of trucks whizzing by.Read more

    • Day 7

      En na León.. de camino vervolgt zich

      May 11 in Spain ⋅ 🌩️ 14 °C

      Het is ongeveer 2 dagen om van León naar Astorga te gaan waarbij de eerste dag eigenlijk een best lelijk stukje camino is. Veel grote bedrijfspanden en veel lopen langs doorgaande wegen.

      Toch kent ook deze dag zijn hoogtepunten met de alleraardigste man die een stalletje runde waar van alles te verkrijgen was. Niets met een prijs, maar alles op basis van "donativo" wat je maar zou willen schenken.
      Hij perste voor mij een verse jus uit en vertelde me over de kleding van de Gouchos in Argentinië dat dit vrijwel identiek is aan de kleding uit deze regio van Spanje. En mijn vrouw kreeg van hem de hartelijke groeten en we moesten van hem volgend jaar maar samen langs komen.
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    • Day 27

      Oncina de la Valdoncina

      April 10 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      Most of today was walking through industrial areas and places of lower cost housing.

      I spent a few hours in León for lunch and the mid-day mass at the Cathedral. I also got a new sleeping bag (ultralight, down) and another pair of socks. It was good to catch up with Christian from Australia who went shopping with me.

      The Albergue El Pajar de Oncina was excellent. We had a wonderful community dinner and warm rooms for the night.

      [Day 23, 25 km walked, 481 km from St Jean Pied-de-Port, 303 km to Santiago.]
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    • Day 22–23

      Leon half day

      May 10 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

      Well, I am up and ready to go sightseeing for a few hours. Get my morning coffee and pastry"s. Walked to St. Francis church. There was a park next to church. Why can't we on the Tohono O'odham Nation have parks for us to enjoy shade and a place to hang out? St. Francis church was beautiful. Bought an extra pair of reading glasses. Again, it was sad leaving the room. My clothes were dry. I am all packed up. It was a nice stay in this room. I am so far away from home, and I question myself, why am I doing this? Walked by Cathedral Leon people are out in large numbers. Thank god for the Google map to lead me out.I walked over almost two hours to get out of Leon. It got warm today. Did the conversion it was 82 degrees. Yes, I had my coffee. It just makes me sad. I saw several peregrinos leaving late like I am. As I pass people in the opposite direction, the majority of them will say Buenos días or Hola. Then say, "Buen Camino." I think they are wishing me well and maybe prayer or positive thoughts back to them? I walked ten miles. I found the hostel. Had to wait 1 hour to finally get in. Got some snacks and drink next door a little grocery store. I think there may be 2 large cities still to come. I don't feel like stopping in the cities anymore. I might just go thru them. Find the major church and find an albergue outside the city. The time is 6:15. I might go to the store before they close 9pm. Plan to leave early tomorrow morning. I am in La Virgen del Camino.Read more

    • Day 22

      Etappe 20

      February 22, 2023 in Spain

      Léon nach San Martin del Camino.
      Augen zu und durch...
      Ausser meiner neuen Jacke gibt es nichts Positives über diesen Abschnitt zu berichten.
      Zum Glück wurde ich Abends in der Herberge positiv überrascht, aus reiner Intuition habe ich mich für die 1 Euro teurere Albergue entschieden, was ein Glücksgriff war😊das erste Mal seit dem Start des Caminos habe ich gut gegessen! Ein riesiger gemischter Salat und eine vegetarische Paella😍
      In dieser Herberge habe ich auch ein koreanisches Paar kennengelernt. (Zukunfts Tanja: Welche ich bis nach Santiago fast täglich sehen werde)
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    • Day 4

      Villar de Mazarife from León

      October 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

      First day walking. Decided to skip the long walk (4 miles) out of León on city streets. Shared a cab to the edge of the city with another pilgrim and have no regrets. Cloudy and windy, but no rain all day! Weather has definitely turned to fall. But that’s pretty much what I expected. I’m geared up for it, except for sleeping. I brought my sleeping bag liner instead of my sleeping bag, in order to keep weight down. I may live to regret that. Also didn’t bring my walking sticks. Mountain pass in a couple more days so we’ll get to see if that was the right choice also.

      Pretty uneventful walk, but hey, I’m back on the Camino!. Body is protesting and I stopped to stretch out on picnic tables and park benches whenever they were encountered. It went this way on the first Camino. Sadly, I neglected to buy anti-inflammatories yesterday. Now I’m in small villages and on the weekend, so nothing open until Monday.

      Staying at a nice alburge and had dinner there with a bunch of nice folks. Tomorrow will be 18 k if my bod holds up. They passed the anti-inflammatory hat for me at dinner, so I may survive the weekend.
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    Valverde de la Virgen

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