Tanzania
Motamburu Kitendeni

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11 travelers at this place:

  • Day7

    Version de Sonia:
    Notre quatrième étape: Karanga camp (4000 M) - Barafu hut (4673 M) / 2h10 de marche.

    Gero a le courage de se laver un peu ce matin! No comment me concernant ;)
    On discute ce matin avec David, un californien qui monte avec son fils et une équipe de 11 porteurs/guides/cuisinier. Chouette rencontre. Le fils parle français car la mère est française! Ils sont en forme tous les deux; en effet, ils prennent du Diamox contre le mal d'altitude ;)

    J'aime beaucoup la première partie: c'est une montée régulière et agréable. Je me sens très en forme. C'est une drôle d'atmosphère car on se retrouve à monter parmi de nombreux porteurs!! Ils sont vraiment impressionnants...

    On s'arrête très peu pour boire car on est en short et c'est un peu juste ce matin, il fait vite frais. En haut, on croise à nouveaux nos cops les Californiens. Suite à un peu de plat à nouveau et de la descente, ça remonte grave sec!! Mon rythme ralentit, Gero me sème avec William. Je reste concentrée sur mon rythme que je gère bien et Guiprong est à mes côtés.

    Puis, ça redevient moins pentu jusqu'au camp. Par contre, on est dans le purée de pois, ça caille et il commence même à neiger. A la cabane d'arrivée, on revoit Jean-Marc et Jean-Blaise. Je me sens un peu étourdie.
    Vite vite, on s'installe, on se couvre et on dort un peu. Vers 16h, on se fait un petit repas chaud, le soleil réapparait, ça change tout et la vue sur les alentours se dégage.

    Ce soir, c'est la vraie première fois où je me sens mal: j'ai mal à la tête, ça me rend KO et méga lente :( .... A suivre!

    Pour plus de détails et d'infos, RDV sur notre deuxième blog: www.myatlas.com/confettiEnVoyage

    Geros Version:
    Aufstieg zum Basecamp auf 4600m. Eine kurze Etappe von ca. 5km zu "Barafu huts". Nur die Höhe verändert alles. Wir fühlten uns fit und kamen nach unserer Morgenwäsche zügig voran. Beeindruckt waren wir immer wieder von den Trägern, die unheimliche Lasten in einem wahnsinnigen Tempo nach oben oder unten brachten. Stühle, Tische, mobile Toiletten, riesige alte Zelte mit schweren Zeltstangen, schwere Gaskartuschen ... alles wurde auf dem Rücken und Kopf kontrolliert transportiert. Wenn man sich das bewusst macht, ist doch die eigene Leistung den Berg mit eigenem Rucksack bestiegen zu haben sehr schnell relativiert. Die Träger lassen bei jedem camp ihr Gepäck wiegen und werden dann nach Kilo bezahlt. Es darf allerdings nicht 22kg übersteigen erzählten uns unsere guides. Eine Träger-Vereinigung (KPAP) hat vor Jahren dafür gesorgt, dass diese Grenze eingehalten wird und verhindert, dass Lasten bis zu 35kg getragen wurden.
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  • Day5

    Day 4 Barranco Camp (3950m) – Karanga Camp (3950m)

    Hiking time: 4-5 hours

    Distance: Approximately 5 kilometers

    Habitat: Alpine desert

    After an early morning breakfast, it was time to conquer the Great Barranco Wall! Intimating at first glance and a Class 2 hike but an extremely rewarding and beautiful walk / climb . At the top of the Wall, we had a view of Heim Glacier and are above the clouds. The trail then winds up and down into the Karanga Valley. An ideal hiking day for acclimatization.

    Foto included Dejo and the chief Edwards
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  • Day7

    Day 6 Summit Attempt

    Barafu camp (4600m) – Stella Point

    Hiking time: 8 hours to reach Uhuru Peak

    Distance: Approximately 7 kilometer ascent

    Habitat: Stone scree and ice-capped summit

    Up at 23:30 for tea and biscuits. After 4:30 hours, we reached Stella Point (5685m), located on the crater rim.

  • Day7

    Barafu camp (4600m) – Uhuru Peak (5895m)

    Hiking time: 8 hours to reach Uhuru Peak

    Distance: Approximately 7 kilometer ascent

    Habitat: Stone scree and ice-capped summit

    Quick break .1.5 hours to Uhuru Peak (5895m). Summit at 0603.

  • Day7

    Day 6 Ascent : Uhuru Peak - Barafu camp

    Uhuru Peak (5895m) – Batavia camp (4600m)

    We started the walk down the glazier, the snow very quickly became slippery as the sun came through the clouds. After Stella Point we were back to the rocky road in between the icy islands.With-in half an hour it all converted into a slope of dusty volcanic ash which was a slippery as the skiing slope

    Started the climb at 00:00, summited at 06:03, back at Barack 1146Read more

  • Day9

    Day 8: Summit Day

    March 13, 2011 in Tanzania

    Barafu Camp, 4690m ASL

    We did it!!!!

    As expected, the climb was a long hard slog, but we managed it in the end.

    The snowstorms mentioned in yesterday's entry intensified during the evening, so that by the time we got up at 10pm the snow was already several inches thick outside our tent. After some steaming tea and biscuits we set off into the night at 11pm, armed with headtorches, cameras, and a shitload of warm clothing.

    The first stage directly out of the camp was pretty brutal - lots of steep rocks to scramble over in the dark. Extra fun when you realise they're also treacherously slippery with the wet snow which was still falling.

    After about 30 minutes the rocks gave way to what we were all expecting - long, steep uphill stretches. Since it's dark you don't really have any conception of where you are, how high you are, or how close you are to a cliff. Most of the climb thus passed by simply staring at the boots of the person in front of you, with the occasional glance down at the lights of nearby Moshi.

    Our altitude sickness was mostly under control at this point, though from hour 2 onwards I felt drunk and light-headed. I listened to music for an hour or two, but I found it more of a hindrance than a help. I couldn't hear people talking to me or others, couldn't hear the sound of my breathing (very important when every breath is about half as effective oxygen-wise as it is at sea level), and it just took me completely out of the group.

    Despite being emptied of everything except snacks, water and the first aid kit, my pack was still too heavy for me and Samweli our assistant guide carried it for me the rest of the way.

    Looking back, it's honestly hard to remember how the 7 hour climb passed. It was just walk, keep walking, keep breathing, keep drinking. Eventually we arrived at Uhuru Peak, the highest point in Africa at 5895m above sea level. Only two other groups on the mountain had beaten us to the summit, one of those being John our Canadian friend (we discovered later he was a marathon runner). We all took some photos with the sign, I tried vainly to call home by was foiled by Vodafone, and attempted a few fruitless scenery shots. Sadly the clouds had closed in again, despite the growing light in the eastern sky.

    All up, the summit was a little underwhelming, but I guess it's about the journey, not the destination.

    And so began the long descent into the morning. The journey up had taken roughly 95% of my willpower and energy, so the trip down was mostly torture. Snow fell on and off, we slid down dirt slopes past vistas we'd completely missed in the dark, stacked it onto arses and started the cycle again.

    After 3 tortuous hours, I finally arrived back at Barafu Camp, 9:15am. The whole climb and descent had taken just over 10 hours. Shandos arrived back about 15 minutes before me, as we'd gotten separated during the final parts of the descent. She was much better able to keep up with Hasani who was doing his best Speedy Gonzalez impression.

    I had a few glasses of pineapple cordial, a stretch and a lie down for 2 hours. Then by 12pm we were having a brief hot lunch before the second descent of the day.

    What was described as a gentle 3-hour descent to a lower altitude camp was one of the most horrible experiences of my life. After very little sleep and already walking for 10 hours, we were now being asked to walk another 3+ hours. The first hour or so was OK, fairly smooth and a long gentle down slope into the valley.

    But as we left the alpine moonscape behind, the road, scenery and weather all changed. The snow gave way to drizzling rain, the desolation became pine and then rainforest, and the smooth trail became a muddy, rocky staircase. I hated every minute of it.

    Four long hours later, we arrived at Mweka Hut in pouring rain. Thankfully our tent was mostly dry inside. We had a brief chat with Tom and Sarka who confirmed that they hadn't summited and turned back at Stella Point due to gastro, mountain sickness and fatigue. A wholly unremarkable dinner, a group cup of tea before collapsing into bed at about 8pm. Summit Day was finally over.
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  • Day4

    First day

    October 9, 2007 in Tanzania

    We were having breakfast at the hotel, when we noticed the peak of Kilimanjaro right out our window. It looks really big. Just a note to self. After breakfast, we loaded into a 6-wheel vehicle, with open bed, benches along each side, and canvas roof. We travelled west toward the Londorossi Gate, where we checked in with the ranger. We also had the pleasure of using a western toilet for the last time. Small things make a difference. Anyway, we drove a 4-wheel drive trail to get to the trailhead, where we unloaded and ate our lunch, as it took about 4-5 hours to get to this point. We hiked three hours in the rainforest to our first camp, Mte Mkubwa. Our tents were pitched and even the little portable toilet has its own little tent. I've got pictures. We had dinner, then we began a routine that would get more intense through the climb, we had about 10 questions to answer about our health: on a scale of 1-10 how do you feel? Vomiting? Diarrhea? Nausea? When was your last pee? When was your last bowel movement? (Did I mention everyone else in your party is sitting there at the same time you answer?) Coughing? Difficulty breathing? etc. Answering yes then began a whole new line of questioning. Before bed we were warned that we would hear the tree hyrax and columbus monkey before dawn....Read more

  • Day7

    Close Encounters

    October 12, 2007 in Tanzania

    Today was supposed to be shorter (3 hours) and somehow I equated that to easier. We climbed up from Shira camp, then it flattened for a while. We again climbed into the alpine desert and walked up to a ridge. This was the junction with the Machame route and the first time we had to share the trail with other climbers. The fog rolled in, and occasionally the sun would peek out. The terrain began to look like the moon's surface, with no vegetation. We finally got to Lava Tower, which looked like Devil's Tower in Wyoming. I was exhausted. We were at about 15K feet and it took a lot of effort to do just about anything. Much panting was done to get to the dining tent and back to our tent for sleep. While we sat around after dinner, we could hear the porters harmonizing and singing gospel in Swahili. Their voices were amazing, and I could even pick out a few hymns I knew from church. By tune only, as my Swahili is limited.Read more

  • Day9

    So close

    October 14, 2007 in Tanzania

    The peak of Kilimanjaro seemed so close this morning. It was a beautiful sight to awaken the tired soul of this hiker. It is getting cold in the mornings and harder to get out of bed, especially knowing we are walking all day and I have to tell some guy when I had my last poop. I digress. We hiked up today. Pretty much no descent whatsoever. We got into Barafu camp by lunch time, which was a nice change. I stripped in the warm tent and used a bunch of wipes to get the grime off my body. I haven't had a shower now for....a while. My feet are starting to stink no matter how clean the socks I put on them. I felt like I was going to a party when I was done; new underwear and clothes, yea. By the afternoon, the wind really started to whip through camp and it got really cold as the sun went down. Kim is not feeling particularly well. I wish I would have seen it, but the toilet tent blew over, leaving only the little porta potty sitting on the edge of this rock face. Kim said she just didn't care and sat right down on it in front of God and everyone. It was nice to laugh, despite the conditions.Read more

  • Day11

    Summit day

    October 16, 2007 in Tanzania

    We woke early and had breakfast. No one felt particularly well, but it didn't stop any of us. The hike was almost straight up on loose gravel and dirt for about 600 feet. It took over an hour to get to the ridge. We walked the ridge, past immense glaciers, to Uhuru Peak. Barbara and Nick arrived first, followed shortly by Kim and I. every one hugged and cried. It was very emotional and wonderful at the same time. We spent quite a bit of time taking photos. The views were incredible and it was hard to comprehend what we had just accomplished. With little oxygen, it all went by quickly. Barbara, Matt and I followed the first guide down, basically running down the mountain. Suddenly I had a lot of energy, knowing I would have relief by the end of the day. We reached Millennium camp in the afternoon. There is actually a ranger there that sells soda, beer and small souvenirs. Kim and I bought $3 cokes to celebrate our accomplishment and honor my mom ( a 6-12 coke/day gal).The wind was still blowing a little and the dust was almost unbearable, but we were happy!Read more

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Motamburu Kitendeni

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