Khlong Silom

I slept like a log last night. That massage really quieted my brain and released all the tension from the last few weeks before my trip. I cried a little when she was working on my shoulders. That’s always a good sign. Get all that stuff out.
I awoke around 6 am feeling rested and the neighborhood was already awake and starting its day. Motorcycles buzzed by, people pushing large carts (filled with vegetables, fruit, and even those big triangle Thai cushions to put on the floor ( that I swear I’m not going to buy b/c they are huge and I have nowhere to put them in my house) ) produce trucks rumbling through every few minutes, (saying something on repeat, that I swear sounds like they are asking for your vote-but that’s the world I live in-not them) and the chatter of people heading to work.
I made a cup of coffee and ate the leftover noodles and seafood omelette. The house I’m in has a Netflix account so I flip it on. I’m in Thailand, so I should watch some thing Thai, right? A movie with lots of fighting and seedy Bangkok references. (Om Bak-2003) Not bad, but no. Ok, let’s try one in your queue at home. A newer one. A true story of a boxer from the UK who goes to prison in Thailand for drugs and has to fight in prison matches to regain his freedom.(A Prayer before Dawn). Sure!
OMG. 1/2 hour into it it gave me such anxiety. I will watch it at some point, just not my 2nd day in the City. The 1st couple of seasons of Friends? Really? You haven’t watched that show since the 1990s. You said you were sick of it. Yeah, but the early ones are funny and it’s a 1/2 hr and it’s friendly, gentle and familiar. Ok, Friends it is. So if I’ve got the tv on, it’s Friends. And I have learned how to manage my anxiety when it starts, and the medication really helps.
I’m kinda anxious this morning anyway. I navigated the city pretty well the day before; but I know I’m going to meet up with a food tour in Chinatown at 4:30. And getting a ticket in the vending machine for every trip I take is getting old. I need a Rabbit card. It’s the Metro card for Bangkok. Put $ on the card tap the card on your way in, and tap on the way out. Easy. And I need a few things. A roll of paper towels ( I have seen 2x where they use TP to dry your hands after washing your hands or have it on the table (in my Air BB) as napkins. I appreciate cultural differences, but no. And I want a small washcloth ( to literally wipe the sweat off of my dripping brow,) It’s really f-ing hot and humid here. Like Florida hot/humid in the summer if you just walked around downtown all day. Like NYC hot/humid. 🥵
I’m also realizing that I was lugging my stuff around and rushing on the 1st day from 11-3. In the South we say you can’t move that fast in the summer or you will stroke out. I’m putting that common sense to this trip as well.
It’s also a good mini-trip to see how I like my Keene “Whispers”. Walking on hot city streets takes a good shoe and I want to see how they will do. Turns out they are fantastic. They are nice and wide, so I can wiggle my toes, they are very comfy, and they cover my toes. There is a LOT of concrete in this concrete jungle. Lots of curbs, uneven payment, escalators, stairs and things to trip over if you aren’t careful. My main shoe concern for this trip was proper arch support and protect the toes at all costs. I wouldn’t wear them on all day excursions, But for a few hours around the neighborhood they are great. I made sure to put on sunscreen, the Feather weight sun hoody that’s quick dry and covers my arms down to the fingertips (with the thumb holes- I love those) and my sun hat. This hat is awesome- and looks like a “Dad” hat. It’s got a chin strap, packable, a good brim on it to protect your ears and is fully functional and is a Godsend. 2 minutes after I’ve left the house, crossed the street, and am walking down the sidewalk in the full blazing sun, I’m so grateful for this hat. It’s why I bring it, every single time.
I get the Rabbit card from the BTS ticket office. I’ve translated in Google translate, what I need to ask for but as it always happens once you are prepared, the lady speaks English and it’s not nearly as stressful as the day before.
After I get the Rabbit card, I go to a grocery store in the basement of a dept store close to the house.I get paper towels, more TP , a small shampoo, sugar, and find a cooling spray for prickly heat that is the BOMB.
Once I take off the meet the food tour, the sun isn’t so blazing over head. The buildings create more shade and I walk more slowly and that seems to help not getting so overheated.
I take the BTS ( elevated sky train) and then I have to take something new.to get me to where I’m going. The MRT is their underground subway system. Not connected to the BTS, so you can’t use the Rabbit card, but I was pleased at how easy it is to navigate. It’s very clean, no homeless population ( they are all topside) , you can’t eat or drink on it, And there is a good security presence.
I get off at the stop for Chinatown and pop up into a bustling, swirling, beautiful, chaotic community. So many of the great cities have a Chinatown. I fell in love with it in San Fransisco, developed a passion for Chinese bakeries in NYC and knew I needed to dive into it in Bangkok. The Chinese have such a place in the big cities of the world. Coming to make their way far from home, creating a community that lasts for hundred of years, and thrives.
I meet up with my food group at a nice hotel right in the thick of things. It’s a small group, there are 8 of us and 3 guides. A couple from Australia, a couple from Brazil, a couple and their college age daughter and me. There is 2 main guides and a 3rd who goes ahead and gets tables, places for orders, etc.
I didn’t take pictures of the food. I find it never translates well, and I wanted to just be in the moment. The cool thing is they took us through back alleys, small side streets and sat us down in places I would never have dreamed of going to even if I had been with someone else.
I can tell you we had Chive dumplings, green curry with amazing Chinese sausage, grilled prawns, Tom Yum soup, a pork and noodle soup, pork sate, stir fried clams in a chili sauce, a green juice Elixir ( that cooled our mouths and promised us good health) shrimp dumplings (made in a tiny hole in the wall back in the deepest part of the Chinatown labyrinth that has a Michelin star and was loved by a member of the Thai royal family) soy sauce ice cream ( which was really good btw) mango sticky rice, fresh pressed mango juice ( to die for). And the one thing I wanted to try. These amazing freshly made doughnuts with a sauce of pandan and condensed milk. Pandan is delicious. It is green in color and had been called “the vanilla of SE Asian cooking”. I found the best description on Google, as it is very difficult to describe. “ Grassy with nuttiness and vanilla verging almost on coconut.” It’s truly the bomb.
As the sun went down, the main road became saturated with all kind of food vendors. They take over the sidewalks, and the police block off a lane on the main road so pedestrians can walk down the road. And last night, there were a LOT of people. Even our guide said it was super busy for a Tuesday night.
The group I was with were very nice. Easy going friendly, well travelled, knowledgeable and I felt very comfortable.
One interesting note about a member of the group. He was young, maybe in his 30’s. He was from Brazil, but seemed very Northern European. He was very fair, blonde and blue eyed. I was surprised when he said he was from Brazil. I was thinking he looked very German, not Portuguese. Hmmm. Very interesting. Then I remembered there was a significant German population that immigrated to South America after WW2. And I’ll just leave that there.
After 20 items to eat drink, slurp and dip we were finished with our tour. We said our goodbyes and. My guide pointed me in the direction of the Metro.
I could have taken a taxi or tuk-tuk home , but I wanted to see how I felt getting home via the BTS and the MRT.
I have a great PACSAFE bag with me on this trip. I debated and debated if I should bring it, and I’m THRILLED that I did. It’s slash resistant had cables in the strap, RFID pockets, and a lock system attaching the 3 zippers to one lock that says “Don’t F-K with me.” Its been perfect for the busy trains and was ideal for the huge crowds in Chinatown. I also have my phone attached to a springy cord that clips inside the bag. So I can have my phone out and not worry as much that someone is going to yank it out of my hand.
If you couple that bag with a confident capable stride ( that says I know where I’m going ), resting Bitch face, and a good pair of walking shoes ( in case you have to run or stomp on someone’s toes) people will generally leave you alone. The slightly sketchy guys laying down in small groups along the sidewalks on the way to the MRT don’t want to go though the hassle of dealing with a sweaty post- menopausal westerner who looks like she’s in no mood. It’s too much effort. At least that’s the vibe I was going for last night. I got the right MRT and BTS trains home last night and after stopping at the noodle guy for stuff for breakfast and 7-11 for snacks, I got home safe and sound.
So for today. I’m back down to Chinatown, at the same hotel I met the food tour last night ( funny enough) for a couple of hours of spa treatments. My appt is at 3pm. This is supposed to be one of the best spas in Bangkok, so we will see. I’d like to get some street food afterward. Ideally if the crowds aren’t too bad after my massage is done. I may take a tuk-tuk home afterward if I do. They are more expensive, but I figure if you are going to take one; after a couple of hours of massages and a full belly of delicious street food is a perfect time to do so. And I’ve been solely taking pubic transport since I got here. Lol, my feet hurt.
Thank you guys for following me. I wanted to keep a journal for this trip, document the journey, share with my friends and family, but not have it all over social media. Funny, I’ve looked at Instagram a few times, but for the most part, stayed off of social media. It feels good. We’ll see how long it lasts.Read more