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Our (not so) long walk, 2023Our (not so) long walk, 2023
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A walk of more than 1000 kms in France and Spain, via the Camino le Puy and Camino Frances, that was cut short … Read more
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  • TravelerOur (not so) long walk, 2023
    1
    Day 20

    Day 20 Until next time …

    October 20, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    The decision is made. We’re going to make our way back ‘home’ to France. We are disappointed but that’s how it goes.

    I have had some time on my hands over the last few days. So I did a calculation I’ve never done before. Since late September 2011, I’ve spent around 270 days walking on camino routes and another 50 on other long distance paths. This is the first time I’ve had an injury that cut short a walk. It was bound to happen. Perhaps a miracle it didn’t happen sooner. 🤷🏼‍♀️

    We are grateful for all our good fortune on this and earlier walks and draw some comfort that it’s happened on a path we’ve each walked before, albeit not together after Pamplona. That was sort of the point of revisiting. But it wasn’t meant to be.

    This walk has had another significance for us. We walked with two dear friends in our hearts. Both passed away earlier this year, within a month of each other, from the same disease. We carried our own credenciales (pilgrims’ passports) to mark each stage of the journey and two others for our friends. At each stop we had all four credenciales stamped. Although it’s unconventional, when we explained we were never refused a stamp for our friends. We had hoped to take them all the way to Santiago de Compostela, but it wasn’t meant to be. Maybe the fact that our journey was also cut short has its own meaning. 🙏

    Thank you for taking an interest and for your good wishes. Merci beaucoup. Muchas gracias.

    With love and gratitude to The French, as always.

    Until next time. ♥️♥️    Read more

  • TravelerOur (not so) long walk, 2023
    11
    Day 19

    Day 19 Estella, still

    October 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    This saying always makes me smile:

    ‘Take my advice, I’m not using it!’

    On the Camino when others are injured or struggling I’d always advise erring on the side of caution - ‘slow down, rest a few days’ - at least I’ve done that - ‘maybe it’s not meant to be this time, don’t risk doing serious damage, thé Camino isn’t going anywhere.’ Easy to give this sensible advice, but not always so easy to take.

    This morning, I bought some new ‘walking sticks’ to help take the weight off my dodgy knee. This afternoon an excellent session with physio Pablo clarified a few things. Followed by a visit to the medical centre for some prescription strength anti inflammatories.

    Decision time looming. Will see what tomorrow brings. 😎    Read more

  • TravelerOur (not so) long walk, 2023
    11
    Day 18

    Day 18 Pamplona to Estella, bus

    October 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    The French and I took the bus from Pamplona to Estella today. It’s about a 2 day walk on the Camino, but just 45 minutes by bus 😞

    We were able to find a lovely apartment for 3 nights with the hope that a little more time off my feet will help me get back on the camino. Kind hosts Jose, who welcomed us, and Ana who made a cake. Estella is a good choice because if we can’t walk from here, there is a direct bus to Irun which we will take to make our way back to France.

    My world feels a little small at the moment but I did take a few photos on the 350 metres between the bus station, the apartment and Mônjardin cafe where we had lunch. Thankfully I’ve been to Estella before and seen the loveliest parts of the old town. The French will take some photos tomorrow and I’ll be able to share them.

    Also, I have a physio appointment tomorrow so we will see what that brings. To be honest, I feel like it’s really just ‘a long goodbye’ to this long camino we’d planned but, we have time, so might as well explore the possibilities. I’ll be delighted if the Physio thinks just a few more days or even a week will be enough. But, as there’s been no improvement since Monday morning, I’m not confident.

    That’s about all the news. All my gratitude to Dominique who continues to be patient and kind, as always. It’s not much fun for him either. I can’t walk and he doesn’t want to walk without me. So we are both in this holding pattern. I wonder what tomorrow will bring … 🤔    Read more

  • TravelerOur (not so) long walk, 2023
    11
    Day 17

    Day 17 Pamplona Casco Antiguo - Old Town

    October 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 23 °C

    Still biding time in Pamplona, being well looked after by The French. Can’t say there has been much improvement in the walking situation. But I’ve managed to hobble out for meals. Happily thé fabulous Plaza del Castillo is nearby. And a restaurant a few doors from our hotel has become a favourite, only partly due to the fact that it’s close.

    We’ve decided to take a bus to Estella tomorrow. It’s a lovely town, a little further along the Camino. Lucky to have found an apartment in the centre of the old town for 3 nights. We figure by Sunday I’ll know whether I can start walking again or not.

    Hope so - if not, we will be disappointed, but it’s not important. With all that’s going on in the world, we know we are lucky to be here and we count our many blessings. 🙏

    In the meantime a few photos of Plaza del Castillo and ‘our’ restaurant a few doors down. ♥️🇪🇸♥️    Read more

  • TravelerOur (not so) long walk, 2023
    111311
    Day 16

    Day 16 Larassoana to Pamplona, taxi

    October 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    This update comes from our comfortable hotel room in the heart of Pamplona old town, home for today and tomorrow. I have a sore right knee - too sore to walk for now. I’m not entirely sure of the cause, but I think it was through over stretching. I’ve been vigilant with stretching ankles, calves and legs generally, particularly to prevent shin splints which I am prone to. All was going well, with no problems since we began walking on the 1st.

    On Friday night in SJPP, I was lying in bed extending my legs when I felt a twinge behind my right knee. Ouch, I thought, that was probably a bit too much of a stretch, but I didn’t give it much more thought. The next morning when we set out at 7am for the Napoleon Route across The Pyrenees, my knee felt a bit dodgy but I soon warmed up and I hoped all would be well. Two days and more than 50 kms later …

    We decided to take a taxi the 16 kms to Pamplona this morning - not as easy as it sounds to get a taxi from Larrasoana, but we worked it out and arrived by 9.30. Some great good fortune with our hotel. We’ve stayed here before - in May this year. We arrived and told our sorry tale to the very kind senora. Did they have a room for two nights and is there any possibility that it would be available now (check in is usually at 3-00)? She told us it may be possible as yesterday they were not full. She did some nifty work on her booking system and, voila, we were in our room by 10.

    Then a short walk (hobble for me) for desayuno at a nearby cafe, a visit to the farmicia, and back to the hotel - time for me to rest. We are both hoping that taking two days here will do the trick.

    The French has been wonderfully supportive and patient, as always. And while I rest up, he’s going to take the opportunity to do all our laundry. That’s a silver lining for sure. The other is that I’ve surprised myself at how unfazed I am by this setback. Not at all like me. Especially suggesting a two day break rather than one. As Domi reminded me - we have plenty of time and no schedule for this camino, and we hope to be able to walk the next 700 kms. Fingers crossed. 🙏    Read more

  • TravelerOur (not so) long walk, 2023
    1
    11
    Day 15

    Day 15 Roncesvalles to Larrasoana, 27 km

    October 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Mostly photos again tonight.

    A good day’s walking, mostly ‘tranquille’ but with a tricky steep 4km descent into Zubiri on loose rocks, which my right knee is not happy about. 🥺

    Excellent Albergue Saint Nicolas- United Nations of pilgrims at dinner tonight - Italian, Austrian, American, South Korean, Spanish and, of course, me and The French.

    Tomorrow, a short walk to Pamplona. 😎    Read more

  • TravelerOur (not so) long walk, 2023
    114
    Day 14

    Day 14 SJPP to Roncesvalles, more photos

    October 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    A few more photos from today.

  • TravelerOur (not so) long walk, 2023
    1
    2111312
    Day 14

    Day 14 SJPP to Roncesvalles, 25 kms

    October 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Today’s path on the Route Napoleon over The Pyrenees, from France to Spain, can only be described as glorious.

    It’s a long climb up to 1450m and then a steep descent. And after the first 8 kms there are no facilities. The weather can play a factor and can change quickly, for the worse. That’s what we had in 2014 - rain, icy winds and, finally, hail. It was challenging and we saw nothing.

    Today, thankfully, a very different story. We left SJPP at 7am, and arrived at Roncesvalles at 2pm. We started early because rain was forecast for the afternoon. But our weather angel took care of us and the rain did not arrive (until this evening) and we walked in to Roncesvalles in sunshine.

    I don’t think the photos (and video) can do justice to the feeling of walking on this stunning path. But … can give an idea at least.    Read more

  • TravelerOur (not so) long walk, 2023
    1111
    Day 13

    Day 13 SJPP & Walking the Camino Frances

    October 13, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    It’s the next afternoon. We have finished the first day of the Camino Frances and we are in Roncesvalles, Spain. It’s almost dinner time.

    I was going to write a little about deciding to walk the Camino Frances again (after 10 years) but … time has gotten away from me. So, I’m just adding more photos from SJPP. Maybe I’ll come back to this post later … to fill in some blanks.Read more

  • TravelerOur (not so) long walk, 2023
    1
    111
    Day 13

    Day 13 Larceveau to SJPP, 19 kms

    October 13, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    SJPP = Saint Jean Pied de Port

    We had a most enjoyable and leisurely walk into SJPP arriving around 12-30. It’s a town we know well and it never loses its charm for us. I had planned to write more but our afternoon and evening were busier than anticipated. And we’ve just returned from dinner with our friends, Pierre and Nadia. So will leave it at that for now and hope to write more tomorrow.

    Speaking of … we have a big day ahead. About 25 kms crossing the Pyrenees from SJPP to Roncesvalles in Spain. We’ve done it before and it’s tough, even in ideal conditions. The weather can play a huge part. Clouds have been circling all afternoon. Grateful for cooler temperatures but would be even more so if the rain and wind stayed away. It can get wild up there.

    We’ll see what tomorrow brings. 🤞🤞🤞    Read more

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