Learning To Swim

August - September 2019
One year ago...
A-'So, what would you like to do to celebrate your 50th?'
S-'I would love to sit at a cafe in Paris and watch the world go by',
'and you?'
A-'I'd love to go to the Greek islands and party'
S-'We should just do it'
A-'Yessssssss'
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  • Day 10

    Villa Melzi

    August 26, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Walking the beautiful gardens of Villa Melzi

  • Day 12

    Varenna

    August 28, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Up for breaky. We head to the dock and collect an all day ticket for the lake.

    With an hour to spare I took Athena to the beauty parlor, where my pedicure was done. Athena needs her brows waxed. I had left my mobile behind at the dock, and thought shit!
    The lady had it though. Thank god.

    We hit the shuttle boat with umbrella's in hand. It is overcast and raining with thunder overhead.
    We sit at the side windows and the view is sublime.

    Slow cruising with the towns passing by.
    I wish to see Villa Balbianello in the town of Lenno, where Anakin wed Padme in secret, but find out it is closed Wednesdays 😔
    So we continue to Varenna. The boat is truly hypnotic and we just stare out at the water, hills and cascading earthenware villas whilst being gently rocked.

    We stop at Varenna at 2.10pm. It is a pretty town with views across to Bellagio and Menaggio.

    A bit of jewellery shopping. I buy a bracelet with pink, purple and aqua stones. We have a late lunch on the river at Nilus Bar.

    Athena is having the drowned octopus 🐙 soup and I the tagliatelle with bacon.🥓 and parmesan. Athena tells me her drowned octopus is absolutely delicious and she also ordered her favourite food chippies nom nom.

    One thing I have noticed is that we are yet to eat indoors. The weather in Europe is devine.

    We walk upwards through rounded stone pathways toward the Villa Monestery. We go into an ancient church with rock pillars. It is a fairytale town with ivy hanging over everything.

    We head back to the dock about 6.30pm. I grab a gelati and we catch the slow boat again, this time we sit outside and just meditate on the blissful scenery.

    Athena and I play 80's pop quiz's. And a young couple quip in and play.

    Get back at 8.30pm and head off to bed. Doing nothing is tiring.
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  • Day 13

    Travelling to Verona

    August 29, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Another slow start, having breaky at 8am. Eggs and Bacon.

    Our train departs for Verona from Como at 12:10

    It is very easy to waste time here. Sometimes all we do is stare at the mountains and lake in a trance.

    Lake Como has relaxed us, with nothing on our agenda.

    We wonder if the magnificent gelati shop in the main square of Como is open yet. It is not.

    Here is Athena to have a chat...
    Como is a picturesque town with lush mountains and a crystal clear lake. The view from our room is stunning. For me como made me stop & relax as I was able to be free & shop. We were constantly on the go in Paris & Monterosso. I can honestly say como makes me feel like I am here for a holiday and not the amazing race.

    Me back again.... Ha, ha, ha, 'the amazing race'
    that is exactly what it is like travelling in Europe with me 😋 Poor Athena xx

    We catch our train, first class rail is nice and relaxing.
    I read my novel while Athena chills out with her tunes for the next 2hrs and 20mins.

    We got off the train and I spied a sign to our hotel. It was great that the hotel is so close to the station 🚉
    Approx 300 metre walk.

    As we dragged our bags along in 32 degree heat it looked like this area was for commission housing.

    Athena and I decided, we will take a cab or ride a bike to the city centre, we are definately not walking it.

    At 3:30pm we leave the hotel and catch a cab to the centre for a walk around and dinner.

    Note to self - Taxi is 10 euro 4mins hotel to Colosseum.

    The Verona colloseum is central and used for operas.

    We walk through the skinny cobbled lanes full of stunning, expensive shops. At the end we turn right and we are at Guilietta's house. We walk straight into the courtyard and get photos with Juliet.

    This was way too easy. I expected a massive line and to have to pay, but nope. It was lovely.

    The balcony is here and another pinch myself moment happens.
    'Letters to Juliet' the movie will explain why I chose to come here. Oh and an old baird and his tragic lovers.

    I walk up to Juliet's statue and to ensure good luck in love, you hold her breast.
    I did it, felt really weird. Like I was invading someone's privacy.

    To get to the balcony you pay 7 euro. Off I went, climbing all through the house, about 5 floors. Costumes, her bed, staircases and massive chimneys.

    You are able to write letters to Juliet to help with your love life and she writes back.
    Well they have computers up there now. You type a letter, and provide your email address for a response. This freaked me out. Bit too modern amongst the medieval.

    We then strolled up to the river, found a bar and began drinking, and drinking, and drinking.

    We were shameless. People were smiling at us. We were trying to take sexy photos of ourselves. It was bad, funny bad, but we couldn't care less. Laughing too much. I got up to go to the Loo and wobbled around. Jeez, feels like when I was 20.

    I said to Athena, I need food, proper food, not crisps.

    We eventually left the bar and walked to the colloseum. A massive dressed up crowd lined up for the Opera. And restaurants surrounding the colloseum.
    We grabbed a table and both ordered seafood spaghetti. Yum.

    A taxi back and dropped into bed. (Athena put her shoes out on the windows ledge so we could breathe)
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  • Day 14

    Hot in the city of Love

    August 30, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Breakfast is fruit, salami and croissants.

    It's 33 degrees today.

    We catch a taxi into the city centre. These taxi drivers in Italy are born rally drivers. I feel like I am back in the Indiana Jones and the peril of doom!!

    We walk the tourist tracks, thru the squares, past stunning medieval architecture. It's everywhere that you look.

    Massive tombs, beautiful brickwork. We walk past the Verona Duomo, I cannot enter as I have my shoulders uncovered. Athena has a yawn but says she is not tired.

    We walk across the pretty red bridge with water running heavily below.

    I want to walk up to the castle. Athena is not interested in walking up the hill so hangs below.

    Up steep steps I go, between buildings out of a medieval fairytale.

    The view from up the top is tremendous. Red terracotta roof tiles. Warm Amber and browns. Red and Pink bricks. The green river running around the historical ancient town.

    Verona is so interesting. Courtyards with olive trees, iron criss cross bars on the windows.

    Cobblestones roads aligned with marble footpaths. Very easy to walk around with many signs.

    We end up back at Juliet's balcony and I nick in to take another look, as this is the reason we are here.

    I try to find the bar we got drunk at last night. I see the river at the end of the road and know it is up the end here.

    We sit under the shade of a massive umbrella. No breeze and it is muggy hot. 2bourban and cokes please. Ahh life is good with a drink in your hand.

    Sometimes, when each of us go get a round, the other will say surprise me.
    Athena orders Singapore Slings in memory of our last Europe trip together. They are sensational. Athena is hungry and grabs a wrap with olive tapenade, salami, melted bococini and grilled capsicum and eggplant. Soooo good.


    It is 5.30pm and Athena believes she has heatstroke. So we head back to the hotel for an early night.

    She asleep in 20mins, me up until midnight, reading, blogging, watching a cooking show. I had a coca cola before bed, so serves me right.
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  • Day 15

    'we have some sad news for you'

    August 31, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Woke up and Jules video called me. Saw mum and Dad's lovely faces.
    Then Jules said we have some sad news.

    It's about your cat.

    Julie had her saddest face on.

    Off course I hung up the phone after yelling nooooooo!!!

    After walking around in circles and bumping into walls, I called back.

    The cattery thinks it was a stroke or an anurism.
    I think he died of a broken heart and abandonment.

    He was the one that I poured my love into. The one that greeted me. The one that I squished and smooged.

    I am a mess.
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  • Day 15

    Hidden Venice Walking Tour

    August 31, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    6.30pm we are at our meeting point, 'The Accademia of art' for our tour tonight called 'Hidden Venice' by Dark Rome Tours.

    Martina is our guide and she is gorgeous and bubbly.

    I am looking forward to this as it will occupy my mind which is sick with grief.

    We walk through a quiet part of the city and it is peaceful.

    Now I type as I walk and listen-

    Venice is in a lagoon, the grand canal is the main highway.

    There is only one piazza - St Marco, all other squares are called 'campiello' meaning field, because they were originally covered in grass

    They are forever fighting a battle for the survival of the city re sinking. The islands originated from needing protection via the water from barbarian invasions.
    They filled in the lagoon with wood and seeds and anything they could.

    Prosecco is the wine they drink at 6.00pm. They eat 'chickpetti' and fish - nibbles. Only children are allowed to ride bikes here up to the age of 11. Adults get a fine.

    We pass an old wooden building where the Gondola repairs and building occurs. Each person owns their gondola. They need to strong to steer and propel with one oar.

    11 metres long, 50 different types of wood in the making of a gondala to make it flexible.
    50,000euros to have one made. 300,000 for the licence. It is a privileged career. Over 400 hours of study. Only 350 gondoliers licenced in city. It is passed down through the generations to the males. They have only one female who stands in for others.

    The production of oil, ie factories, is off the island.
    Tourism is the only industry.

    Giudecca, is the island over from us. I thought it was Lido!! Where the film festival is currently being held.
    Lido is the strip of land 11 km long btn the Adriatic and the lagoon. A sandbar. It is far off. Damn.

    For their justice system, people could put scrolls with 2 witness names into a sculptured lions mouth on a doorway to denounce a criminal.

    A 'Fundamental' is a street with the water at the side.

    Many passages.
    Low buildings, the highest is 9 floors,

    The plague killed thousands.

    Very quiet and safe in the paths around Venice. Minimum crimes. As no where to escape.

    Walking is the fastest way around. No cars. 30 mins walk from one side to the other.

    The foundation is on mud, sand, wooden slats, it was built up. The wood petrified with the salt.

    The walls of all buildings are made with iron bars for stability.

    We walked to see St Marco from across the water. The lights are coming on all around us. With a pink sunset. The air is warm and the light everywhere is amazing, like a soft glow.

    We hop on for our gondola ride, which is quiet and slow amidst the lapping water.

    It drops us to the other side and the tour is over, we walked back to our hotel. Watched a movie called 'McFarland USA' with Kevin costner dubbed in Italian. I get the gist.

    I have no appetite and not much sleep for me.
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  • Day 16

    A city of silence

    September 1, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Athena called her dad this morning.

    Angela, theen's mum, always asks to speak to me. She smiles and says she loves me and tells us to be good girls. She asks if I have met anyone. I say no. Too busy.
    (I think her and I share an unsaid language of love and protection. Theen's always tells me I sound just like her actual mother, which I like. Athena says it is because our love is genuine)

    Breakfast was in a different building around the corner from our hotel 'The Paganelli'. We just followed a girl there that looked like she had just woken up.
    I had juice and scrambled eggs. Not up to eating much.

    Julie called me via messager with Dad. They were out picking up a roast to take home for Fathers day. They couldn't get the video working, but I could hear them. I said turn your video camera on. Next minute I had bunny ears and whiskers!!! 😂 Their happy faces came on the screen, also with bunny ears and whiskers. Julie, Dad and I couldn't stop laughing. We looked so silly.
    I wished my Dad a happy Fathers day and we blew kisses. Jules and I chatted about my baby kitten and both teared up. Dad told me I was very lucky to have Julie as my little sister. It was a lovely call.

    On the way back I spied a church. It is so quiet here away from the crowds. I walked in and lit a candle and thanked my little fluffy best friend for all the love he gave to me and said goodbye, I love you 🐾 ♥

    Once back in our room, the church bells rang out for ages, they said to me 'don' t be sad', 'don' t be sad'... 🐾

    Today I intend to sit quietly and sort my case of clothes out, do some washing, read, blog and just be still.

    Athena is off at 10:00 to check out the Venice shops. I told her she'd better come back safely. She said 'of course love'
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  • Day 16

    Remember that little pizza place?

    September 1, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Athena arrives back to our room at midday. We decide to head out to find our little pizza place that we sat at for 2 hours on our trip 4 years ago-

    (our tour guide, Steve, told us all to go and get lost in Venice. Didn't have to tell me twice, I was so happy to be set free. Athena and I wandered over the Rialto bridge, through skinny alleys and side way streets until we found a clearing with a little restaurant, we sat and had the best time)

    Well I have a great sense of direction so off we went through the maze.

    It was the same, the tight skinny streets all cool and shaded. We try to keep away from the crowds, so I do a left here and there.

    We come across dead ends with a canal at the end. I can hear tv on above my head, and people arguing.

    The sounds of living rooms pour out to us. Clothes hang on lines above our heads and the walls look so dilapidated.

    This is what I enjoy. The real life. The feeling like you are sneeking into people's backyards.
    Which way to turn? It doesn't matter. We don't know where we are.

    We come across a couple of restaurants but the square is too skinny. It is not familiar.

    'Keep going Sandra", I tell myself.
    I see at the end of one street the sun hitting a wall ahead and know there is a square there. We walk out and my seeking is over.
    I FOUND IT!!

    We are very pleased with ourselves.
    Athena orders a bruchetta and I a coke. (still not able to stomach anything)

    Isn't it funny, I have always thought that I would come back here and try to find this place, as what an adventure it would be!

    We head back, this time we follow the arrows to RIALTO and ST Marco amongst the shops and tourists.

    We get to the Rialto Bridge and it is packed with people. The annual regatta is on. People with oars stand together and row fast as they can in boats wider than a gondola.

    We look through some shops and they are full of the famous Murano coloured glass ornaments.

    I am in search of a pencil and paper.
    Jules wants Athena and I to do a drawing of our surroundings. Will give it a try.

    Something pulls me to look in the windows for a little glass black cat.
    After many yucky ones, I find one I like. I carry it close to my heart as we walk between the tourists and it makes me feel a little lighter.

    I spy a lolly shop that makes me stop in my tracks. In I go, paper bag at the ready. Everything looks devine and so different.

    Lollies make you feel good! But not too many.

    We get to our hotel about 6.30pm and go sit on our precious little quiet balcony. I ask Athena if she wants to go out to eat, she says she's full from the bruschetta. Me, I am starving.

    I pop out alone to buy some prosecco and a panini. But cannot find either.

    I walk into a little restaurant, down the lane way next to our hotel, and ask do you do takeaway. They say yes. May I please have a lasagne? Absolutely.

    I wait, families come in and are shown to their tables. I read the fish and crustacean posters on the wall.

    The maitre d sidles up to me and asks 'do you want food or me?' in a jovial manner.
    I laugh and point to the kitchen and say food.

    Boldly I nudge him with my shoulder and say you're funny. We smile broadly together. I like a bit of mischief in a person.

    My food is ready. The chef begins to put the parmesan on top and halts, looking at me. I instantly nod, smile and say a big yes please.
    He then asks me if I am single. I say yes and from Melbourne. He jots down his number on the top of my container and says in broken English, I am from Lido, there is a festival there. Come with me tonight once I finish!

    Oh dear, I thought. I smiled and said thank you, went back and inhaled my lasagne.

    Off to bed and the TV signal goes. I call reception and the guy comes up and plays around with the remote and stuffs it up even more.

    During this time we hear a blood curdling scream outside of a woman or child and someone yelling help. The guy says sorry bout the TV and Athena and he go to investigate whilst I lay in bed. They find nothing. Weird.

    Once the guy leaves, I pull the plug out and back in and wholla it's back.

    I search for English speaking channels and find a movie with Matthew
    Mcconaughey. Slowly my eyes get heavy.
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  • Day 17

    Running away to Lido

    September 2, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    It is 2.00 and I have done nothing.

    Athena has been out and about.
    She brings me a Gelati and tells me to go to Lido to the film festival. She will not come along.

    I am tentative to go by myself as feeling sensitive and vulnerable. This is the total opposite of me when I travel.

    I put makeup on, Athena does my hair and I say goodbye. She said she is proud of me.
    I know I will regret not trying.

    I chat to the reception guy whom let's me know everything I need to get to the film festival. He hands me his programme and tells me to say hello to Penelope Cruz, I tell him I will get her Ph no for him.

    I catch the water bus which takes 15 minutes and is 14euro return. The bus bashes up the side of the vaporettas as people embark. The water outside is at my knee level. The bus is loud with gear shifts.

    I hop off at Santa Maria Elizabetta station which is a 20min walk to the festival cinemas. A massive poster greets me at the station with a list of all the movies playing.

    I take a photo of 'my movie' THE KING with Timothee Chalamet as the lead.
    I love Timmy. He is my current favourite actor after seeing him in a movie CALL ME BY YOUR NAME. I am reading the novel whilst on holiday. Absolutely love it to pieces.

    A man approx 70 asks me where do you catch the buses. I said I don't know, just got here myself. But I know it is only a 20min walk. We walk and talk. He said his wife is back at the hotel as she's not into all of this, I said my friend is back at our hotel. His name is Will and he is from Texas. His parents were into movie making. We got there and walked straight through with a bit of security checking for weapons.

    Both of us are like kids in Disneyland. We watch the boats arrive with the stars. So happy, taking each other's photos in front of the cinemas. It is quiet and lovely walking around, a fabulous set up. The crowds come at 6.00pm when the movie premiers begin.

    Will leaves after 1hr and me- not quite ready -stays. I walk into the info booth and ask what time is the red carpet for The King? The girl says 6:00pm. I think I can hang for a couple of hours. She tells me the cast are staying at The Excelsior Hotel right over there.

    I go and sit on the steps out front of their hotel.

    I overhear 2 young italian girls talking excitedly behind me, in Italian. I can make out that they are talking about hot male actors as they say the names in English.
    So I butt in. I laugh and ask them who they are here to see- Timothee Chalamet.
    I say me too. One of the girls, Francesca, speaks English well enough. We chat non-stop about Call Me By Your Name and how much we love it. Then she shows me a tattoo on her arm of the 2 boys in the movie. I say wow! She then shows me photos of her with Timmy, taken at the boat arrivals, and she is showing him her tattoo! Amazing.

    All the while stunning Italian women in amazing dresses pour out of the hotel doors. Models, actresses and TV show hosts. Men are in tuxes and suits, everyone looks devine and very wealthy.

    The other girl, Deborah, needs to catch the last train home at 5.00. Francesca walks her to the station and tells me she'll be back.

    So I sit and wait and watch.

    Francesca has a ticket for the world premier of The King which is on at 10.30pm tonight. She came here yesterday at 7am and lined up.

    I had previously looked online but all the tickets were sold out. I did go to the box office earlier today to see if any tickets were avail but sorry sold out. The lady told me to come back 2hrs prior to the movie in case someone cancels but I didn't like my chances.

    Francesca and I grab some chips and sit and eat and chat about our favourite stars. She loves Joaquin Phoenix, whom is in The Joker. She got his autograph when he got off the boat. This girl is so clever.

    It gets to 7.00 and I think I had better head back to my hotel as I don't think I will get a glimpse of Mr Chalamet.

    Francesca says why don't you try to get a ticket. I say ok, you come with me because you are lucky and she does.
    I say hi to the ticket lady with a big goofy smile, I'm back. Would you please check for any cancelled tickets for the king? She said she will check. I was waiting for a no, but she said 'you are very, very lucky because I have one cancellation just come through now'.

    I walk off with my ticket in my hand and think better tell Athena not to expect me home before midnight and that I was absolutely fine.

    Francesca and I grabbed a bite whilst we waited for her friends to arrive.
    I find out she is 16, she seems 21.

    Her friends turn out to be about 6 girls all about 23, whom she met online at a Call Me By Your Name forum.

    I tell you, even though these girls speak Italian, they certainly speak my language. They all met up in Crema where the film was shot-40mins drive from Como. The majority of them speak English, they show me their photos of Timothee.

    Although, I am a ring in, the same age as their mothers and wearing a summer dress, they all talk to me as if I am one of them. It is so lovely.

    Next they tell me we need to line up for the red carpet. I think we are going to watch the stars walk it, but no they tell me, if you have a ticket you walk the red carpet.

    I almost stopped breathing.

    WHAT!!!

    Here I am in my little summer Hawaiian dress, sandals and backpack.

    We all did it,

    I WALKED THE RED CARPET AT THE VENICE FILM FESTIVAL

    What a crazy thing to do. I pass the crowds on my right and photographers on my left.
    There is a massive screen right up in front of us. And there I am on it smiling!!! Couldn't believe it. Hilarious.

    The girls tell me to get up to the railing/barriers so we can watch the actors go past as they enter the cinema. I ran my whole lower arm along that railing and stood ready to protect my spot.

    It got hot standing there. I took out my programme and fanned myself.

    Girls screaming just outside signalled the arrival of the cast of The King.

    2 aussies are in it, Joel Edgerton and Ben Mendelson (whom I adore).

    I see Timmy in his silver suit taking selfies with his fans just outside. He is great. Really is as excited as the fans are.

    Then they walk in towards us, one after the other.

    Joel walks past me.
    I yell Hi Joel. He can clearly hear an Aussie amongst the sea of Italian murmurs. He quickly turns to me and waves and says 'Yo'.
    I thought 'you're a good boy'

    Next is Lily Rose Depp, Yep that Depp. The girls tell her she is beautiful and she faces us and says Thank you.

    Then it's good ol Tim.
    He zig zags across the lane way to each side.
    Now at this time my phone battery is dead, my programme is in my hand and somehow I found a pen in my bag.

    Everyone else has, a phone in their hand. I hold out the programme and pen.
    He beelines for me.
    He signs the back page of my programme in a couple of scrawls. He shakes my hand, looking me in the eye, great strong handshake. I say 'You are amazing and everyone here loves you' he replied 'thankyou very much, I really appreciate that' in his strong New York accent.

    Huh!!!

    I have no photos. I have a scrawl!
    But I damn well know how he shakes hands.
    The girls took video and photos so I gave them my email and asked if they could kindly send me some.

    With that we followed them into the cinema. Our seats were all over the shop.

    Then the director and cast walk in to take their seats. Standing clapping from all of us.

    The movie begins.
    It is based on a Shakespere play, and Tom Hiddleston did a version. So I know what happens.

    Robert Pattinson played the French prince and was bloody brilliant. Where the hell is he today??

    Joel did a great job and Timothee always lights up the screen.

    I kept looking behind me to check if they were still there, sitting behind me. Yep.

    The credits come up. The cinema stands and claps for about 6 minutes straight The actors bow and hug each other.

    Everyone departs the cinema.

    I exit a door where the cars are waiting for them. Well I might as well stand there.
    I see Ben, come out and once again the only Aussie voice in the crowd yells 'Great job Ben' he looks at me and smiles.
    I tell Joel the same and his head turns my way and he waves.
    I don't think the Italians know these boys, but I do. I am fully sic over yoos mate.

    I find a couple of the girls and follow them to the water bus which takes me from the festival direct to my hotel.

    We hug each other goodbye and I thank them for being so awesome.

    Athena is waiting up for me and I am home at 2.45am!!!

    Need to blog this stuff now before I forget everything.
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