United States
Madison County

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    • Day 17

      Jingle Bells

      February 17 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

      Ja Wie bereits am Vorabend über die Wettervorhersage unseres Garmin inReachs angekündigt wurde, sind wir bei ca. 15 cm Neuschnee aufgewacht. Bis um 2 Uhr hat es sehr stark geregnet, weshalb ich direkt unter dem Dach des Doppeldecker-Shelters nicht schlafen konnte. Daher hätte ich nicht gedacht, dass es wirklich noch zu Neuschnee kommen würde.

      Im Schnee sind wir zusammen mit „Jolly Green Giant“ zum „Standing Bear Hostel“ gewandert. Es lief unglaublich gut für uns, da es hauptsächlich abwärts ging und der Schnee sich als gute Dämpfung erwies. Mit 3 Mph sind wir gut vorangekommen. Obwohl es morgens -6 Grad Celsius hatte, hatten wir jede Menge Spaß bei den winterlichen Trail-Bedingungen. Zu Jingle Bells rannten wir den Berg hinunter voller Vorfreude auf ein tolles Frühstück beim Standing Bear. Als wir dort ankamen, war mein erster Eindruck allerdings „Redneck-Hölle“. Komische Leute vor einem Feuer, die aus der Ferne „Hiker-Alarm“ ruften, tendenziell eher wie Obdachlose aussahen und offensichtlich keine Wandernde waren.;-)

      Wie sich herausstellte, waren das Angestellte, die ihren Samstagmorgen kiffend am Lagerfeuer verbrachten und eigentlich sehr nett waren. Der Betreiber des Hostels „Snake Bite“ hat uns den Resupplyraum gezeigt und uns eine Fertigpizza gegeben, die wir in einer Küche bzw. einem Aufenthaltsraum aufbacken konnten. Die Pizza war ungelogen, die geilste Tiefkühlpizza, die ich je gegessen hatte! Sie schmeckte sogar besser als die Pizza aus dem Restaurant im NOC! Zudem haben wir kostenlos Kaffee und Kuchen bekommen. Eine Sitzung auf Porzellan rundete die ganze Sache noch ab und machte den morgendlichen Abstecher zu einem vollen Erfolg. :-D

      Nach der 2,5-stündigen Pause standen für uns noch ca. 16 Meilen und mit „Max Patch“ ein weiteres Highlight unserer Wanderung auf dem Programm.

      Leider kamen wir auf dem kahlen Berg „Max Patch“ erst nach Sonnenuntergang an. Eine schöne Aussicht hatten wir trotzdem, aber es war ars** kalt dort oben. Unser Thermometer zeigte - 9 Grad Celsius an. Mit dem Wind war es aber gefühlt deutlich kälter.

      Da kam es uns gerade recht, dass wir nur noch 2 Meilen zum Roaring Fork Shelter vor uns hatten. Dort haben Jochen und ich uns ein Festmahl zubereitet. Ramen mit Gemüse, Thunfisch und unserer selbst gemachten Soße bestehend aus italienischen Kräutern, Tomatenpulver, Käsepulver, Eierpulver und Butterpulver. Superlecker! Wirklich!

      „Leider“ kam kurz vor dem Essen „Jolly Green Giant“ ins Shelter und hat sich zwischen uns gelegt. Innerhalb von wenigen Minuten hat er sein Schlafzeug gerichtet und schlief ein, weshalb Jochen und ich uns nicht bei unserem Festmahl unterhalten konnten. Das hatten wir uns anders vorgestellt.
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    • Day 14

      Eistonne in den Smokies

      February 14 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

      Heute sind wir vom Fontana Damm aus in die Smokies gestartet. Da es morgens wieder sehr kalt war, haben wir im Fontana Hilton Shelter noch einen Kaffee getrunken, um nach weiteren 30 min festzustellen, dass es dort beheizte sanitäre Anlagen gibt. Diese haben wir genutzt, um uns aufzuwärmen. Sehr ärgerlich, dass wir nicht schon am Vorabend diesen warmen Traum mit leichter „Klo-Note“ aufgesucht haben. Es gab sogar Duschen dort! Egal, dann wird sich die Dusche in 5 Tagen so richtig rentieren. 😉

      Den ganzen Tag ging es bei Sonnenschein mit kurzen Unterbrechungen insgesamt 2700 m bergauf. Am Südhang hatten wir ohne Wind annähernd sommerliche Temperaturen, wohingegen es auf der Nordseite der Berge total verreist und kalt war. Da wird einem wieder bewusst, wie eng Freud und Leid on Trail beieinanderliegen. Manchmal liegt nur ein Bergkamm oder im Extremfall einen Meter dazwischen. Abends mussten wir die letzten Reserven aktivieren, um die steilen und vereisten Abschnitte zu meistern. Dies forderte den ersten Tribut. Seit heute spüre ich besonders meine Oberschenkelmuskulatur am linken Bein. Ich hoffe, das vergeht über Nacht.

      Den schönsten Ausblick hatten wir heute vom Derrick Knob aus. Einfach herrlich!
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    • Day 16

      Dem Wald gehen die Bäume aus

      February 16 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

      Heute begann der Tag mal wieder um 2 Uhr nachts mit einem Sprint zum Privy. Dieses Mal war ich vorbereitet und alles ging gut. Die Nacht war für mich allerdings weitestgehend gelaufen. Ich hatte wieder mit leichten Magenkrämpfen zu kämpfen und „Blue Man“ hat den halben Wald in den Smokies abgesägt. Dank Jochen bin ich es gewohnt, neben jemanden zu schlafen, der schnarcht. Jochen schnarcht aber nicht die ganze Nacht durch und nicht in dieser Lautstärke … naja, zumindest mussten wir keine Angst haben, dass ein Bär uns in dieser Nacht besucht. :D

      Da wir am Vortag aufgrund des stark vereisten Trails nur 13 Meilen weit kamen, haben wir für heute das Cosby Knob Shelter in 28,3 Meilen als Tagesziel ausgerufen. Und peng.. die wandernden Kakerlaken haben es mal wieder geschafft - sogar in den Smokies! Insgesamt waren es heute etwa 2500 m im Auf- und 3000 m im Abstieg. Für 28 Meilen eigentlich relativ moderat.

      Belohnt wurden wir mit einer schönen Aussicht auf die Smokies und auf Gatlinburg. Generell ging der Tag heute extrem schnell rum. Morgens mussten Jochen und ich noch sehr konzentriert auf eisigen Wegen laufen. Mittags haben wir beide Musik gehört und abends sind wir zusammen mit „Jolly Green Giant“ zum Shelter gewandert. Ihn haben wir wieder nach Tagen getroffen, als wir gerade Mittagspause gemacht hatten. Mit ihm hatten wir super Gespräche über Wildtiere, Politik und Waffen. Er besitzt eine Pistole von der Firma Heckler und Koch, welche in meiner Heimatstadt Oberndorf am Neckar angesiedelt ist.

      Neben einer kleinen Blase gab es allerdings noch einen kleinen „Dämpfer“ für uns. Ich erhielt eine Sprachnachricht von Andi, dass unser Paket nicht bei ihm nicht angekommen ist. Ich hoffe sehr, dass das Paket mit unserer Sommerausrüstung und meinem Laptop nicht verloren ging. Leider können wir aber vorerst nichts machen und müssen bis Montag warten. Es bleibt also spannend!
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    • Day 21

      Der Berg mit der Glatze

      February 21 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 6 °C

      Endlich haben wir es geschafft, um 5:00 Uhr aufzustehen und um 5:30 Uhr auf dem Trail zu sein. Nach einer kurzen Verabschiedung von Beth und Somewhere gings bei sehr hellem Mondschein in Richtung „Big Bold“ los. Nach etwa 15 Meilen haben wir an einem Shelter eine zweistündige Mittagspause eingelegt. Wir waren beide etwas fertig von den letzten Tagen und brauchten diese Zeit zu Regeneration. Wir konnten sogar einen kurzen Mittagsschlaf machen. Endlich!

      Als wir bereit waren, das Shelter wieder zu verlassen, kam Beth ins Shelter. Wir waren überrascht, wie schnell sie war, da sie noch am Kaffe kochen war, als wir losgegangen sind. Da sieht man mal wieder, dass längere Pausen Meilen kosten. Sie hat uns erzählt, dass sie nun zum dritten Mal auf ihre Schulter gefallen ist. Das tat mir sehr leid! Ich habe ihr daraufhin Voltaren gegeben, in der Hoffnung, dass sie wenigstens die nächsten ein bis zwei Tage von Schmerzen verschont bleibt.

      Kurz nach dem Shelter kam uns ein Mann entgegen, der uns angesprochen hat. Er fragte, ob wir Thru-Hiker seien und ob wir Lust auf Früchte, Süßigkeiten oder etwas zum Trinken hätten. Als wir unglaubwürdig schauten, fragte er, ob uns der Begriff „Trail Magic“ bekannt ist. Natürlich sagten wir! Dann bekamen wir Mandarinen, Bananen und Schokolade! Außerdem nahm er unseren Abfall ab.
      Er war supernett und hat uns von mehreren Wanderungen mit seinem Sohn auf dem AT erzählt. Nach einem kurzen Gebet, welches er für uns sprach, gingen wir weiter in Richtung „Big Bold“, welchen wir noch vor Sonnenuntergang erreichen wollten.

      Dort angekommen erwartete uns ein wunderschöner Ausblick und noch gerade ausreichend Sonne, um schöne Bilder zu schießen.

      Ein sehr freundlicher Mann schoss von uns noch ein Bild und erklärte uns den Weg zum „Bold Mountain Shelter“. Dort angekommen, ging die Suche nach Wasser los, bis ich nach circa 20 Minuten endlich die Wasserquelle gefunden hatte und wir unsere warme Mahlzeiten an diesem sehr kalten und windigen Abend zubereiten konnten, bevor wir schlafen gingen.
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    • Day 13

      Return To Hot Springs

      April 29, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

      Rebecca's flight was at 7 am, so we traveled the 4 hour drive from Louisville to the Knoxville airport through the night to have her there by 5:30 am. We traveled a couple hours until around 1 am when I started to feel myself nodding off. So an hour and a half away from the airport, we stopped for 90 min to sleep before continuing the trek. After I dropped her off, I slept 2 more hours. Sleep the last two nights has been in small increments and definitely insufficient. My body is feeling it.

      I had scheduled another appointment at Hot Springs Resort and Spa, and I'm really glad that I did. It was a completely different experience. I arrived a few min early for my 9:15 appointment. The day is about 25 degrees warmer than last week and the trees are much fuller and greener. I thought I was getting tub 5 again but I got tub 15. This tub is much less expensive, doesn't have the fire, and is located at the center of the back of the property on the creek. It's just as beautiful, peaceful and private though. More light filters in. It's situated next to a gentle waterfall on the creek, so I listened to the gentle sound of the water bubbling down the creek for the next hour. To my right, suspended above the creek are two large ducts to pipe the hot mineral water over to the tubs. The water in tub 15 is considerably warmer than hot tub 5. I'm very happy about that. I contemplate that this must be because it's closer to the source and has less time to travel through the potentially cold metal conduit before reaching the tub. I'm glad I got to visualize the pipes though and see and feel the hot water coming into the tub, because after my last experience I was thinking the whole mineral water thing might just be a scam. I'd booked my second spa experience before doing the first, otherwise I might not have come back. I'm really glad I did though.

      I had a whole hour in the tub. I'm guessing the water was 102 degrees. It was relaxing. I listened to the creek and the birds singing. The train went through town, and I could see it as it crossed the creek. Returning to the van, my legs felt like noodles.

      After 4 days of two people living in the van, going like mad people from place to place, the van needed some serious clean up and organization, so I sat there in the resort parking lot, cleaned up the van and had my coffee.

      I then drove into town, walked around a bit, bought a magnet for my van at the outfitters post, and a another bottle of that fantastic wine at the gourmet store next door. The brewery and restaurant wasn't open yet, so I walked to the Red Bridge and then returned to the van and took a short nap. As I pulled out of my new favorite little town, the mayor and two other women were standing outside city hall, one of them was smoking. The voting polls were open. The hikers were repacking their backpacks and the Harleys were lined up on the street as the bikers were arriving for lunch at the brewery. Part of me wanted to stay and enjoy the Friday afternoon. The brewery is attached to a bar and behind that is a restaurant that serves tacos and lots of other hipster delicious foods. There's a large outdoor area with picnic tables and a band stage. It looks like a really fun place to hang out. But I must travel on.

      I'm not missing home. I wouldn't even say I'm ready to come home. I miss my friends and family at home, but they are mostly managing fine without me. I heard gut wrenching news about a fatal drug overdose of a young girl that lives in my condo. So sad.

      I want to get back home by Saturday so I have more than 24 hours to get ready for next week. I want to see my new best friend Kris and finish watching season 6 of Outlander together. I want to see my favorite local band on Sunday night at the Hippy. I want to walk the beach and see the sunsets once again. Onward south.
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    • Day 3

      Appalachian Trail Lover's Leap

      April 19, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 52 °F

      I'm sitting in a big, beautiful barn right now. Why? There is no wifi except in the barn, and there is no phone signal here either. So when I walk back to the van for the night, I will be off the grid. Emergency calls only. I'm at this cute little place called Paint Rock Farm for the night. Planning to open the bottle of red wine I bought and maybe set up the grill. It is quite chilly though.

      After leaving the spa, I parked in town by the railroad tracks and walked to the outfitters store. Evidently, Bridge St in Hot Springs is part of the Appalachian Trail. As I was driving in, I saw many hikers with backpacks, walking sticks and long beards. Speaking of... I haven't shaved in 3 days. Like I didn't even go that long after my surgery.

      So, I go to the outfitter store. It's amazing the things they have in there for camping and hiking. So cool. For some reason I couldn't remember why I wanted to go there before my hike. So after looking around awhile, I left for the 2 plus mile hike from town up to Lover's Leap via the Appalachian Trail. Once I got on the trail I remembered why I wanted to go to the outfitters store.... to get a walking stick.

      The trail starts out asking the French basin river, and there is a small waterfall there. I was alone on the trail, just like my drive into Hot Springs this morning, no one to be seen. It is absolutely gorgeous. I did see a couple of campsites along the river, but no persons. Once I started the hike up, the trail got pretty steep. I was wishing for those walking sticks. The further up the trail i climbed, the quieter it became as the river became further away. After stopping about 5 times to slow my heart rate down from about 180 bpm I finally made it to the overlook. The view was amazing.

      I walked quite a bit more and was looking for the orange markers for the trail back to the road, but they weren't there. I kept climbing up, and I was saying outloud to myself, I got to be coming down this mountain soon. I looked on the map and it looked like I was half way to Tennessee or something. All I could think of was having a heart attack, falling down the mountain and the panthers licking my contusions. I was so afraid of getting lost and didn't have a good map. I took that picture of the trail after I came back down the mountain. So I turned around and walked back down the way I came. I passed about a dozen hikers coming back down, almost all of which had hiking sticks.

      I made it down and walked back into town to the outfitters store to look at hiking sticks. I pick a set up and they were $150 so I decided I would do some research first before making a purchase. The I went next door to see what they had there. It was an exquisite selection of gourmet foods. I chose a bottle of red wine from Barcelona. Danny recommended it; he said it had peppery notes. I also grabbed some crackers and went to check out. When I went to get my wallet out of my orange Italian leather backpack, it was not there!

      So I walked back to the van to look for my wallet... no where. I looked everywhere 5 times. Checked my discover card activity and it was silent. So I looked around outside the van, nada. I walked down the street to the brewery and inquired to see if anyone turned in a wallet. One guy asked another guy who asked another guy and then the guy sitting next to him yells out "Kimberly". I jumped, put my hand up in the air and said, "That's me!". They asked me where I was from and they said you check out. They have your wallet over at City Hall. But alas it was 5:45 pm and City Hall was closed. I went back to the van to get some cash. Thankfully, all of my cash was in my purse and not in my card holder pocket. By golly, I went back to the gourmet store to buy that wine and crackers. That's when Danny said he would text the mayor and see if she could help me.

      A couple minutes later the Mayor Norton of Hot Springs, NC called me. She was two doors down so she came over to City Hall and found my wallet for me. Miracle on Bridge Street.

      I don't know what I would have done if I'd lost that. So that's my day. Now going to go off grid and turn in for the night. 🌙 night night
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    • Day 23

      Day 23 of AT in NC NOBO

      May 24, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

      Deer Park Mountain Shelter (mile marker 271.7) to downtown Hot Springs, NC 275.1
      Daily Mileage: 3.4

      After two long’ish and mountainous days yesterday and the day before, I woke up a bit later this am as I knew I had left myself 3.4 relatively easy miles into Hot Springs for an afternoon off and then a full off day tomorrow.

      Another beautiful day in the neighborhood with temps @ 85 when I got down to the valley floor. Hot Springs came into view about 1.5 miles into the morning proceedings.. such a pretty countryside with large track farmlands and the fast flowing French Broad River dominating the scenery.

      Once down, the first thing I passed by was The Laughing Heart Hostel & Lodge, a fairly famous stopover for thru and section hikers. They turned a large, old time church into the hostel portion of the property that houses the bunkhouses, store, laundry, etc. . The larger lodge next door has private rooms with baths and their own hot tubs with local hot mineral water that makes the town famous.

      I passed Laughing Heart and at the corner of the driveway and Main St that takes you the 0.7 miles through town sat the Police Chief in his cruiser just chillin’. He rolled down the window and then got out and we chatted for 20 mins. Really nice guy. I was asking him about the town’s history, places he recommended to eat, and how things and have changed (if at all) over the past decade. He said they had their first drive by shooting of all time (a domestic dispute) 2 weeks ago, but that there’s essentially zero crime. But social media has boosted tourism in recent years past the point that locals like. But there’s no putting the genie back in the bottle. Overall, he loves serving the community and it’s a small but great place to live.

      I walked down to the Smokey Mountain Diner and ate my fill with other hikers that had just come out of the woods, and then proceeded on to check out the Hillbilly Market, the Dollar General, the Historical Center, the hikers outfitting shop, etc. to scope out eating and re-supply options.

      At the historical center, I learned something interesting. When the U.S. entered WWI in 1917, several German civilian ships were seized on the East coast. Overnight, 2,700 seaman and officers became “enemy aliens”. Within days, the US Gov’t leased the Hot Springs Resort & Spa (where I’m staying) to serve as an internment camp to house the Germans. The main lodge housed the officers of the ships, and within a month barracks were built across the street to house the other 2,500 seaman. A hospital was built, some wives and children were allowed to travel over to be with the men, and the officers were even allowed to cultivate vegetable gardens. Overnight, a town of 650 residents became home to 2,500 Germans. Pretty interesting!

      I checked into the Hot Springs Resort, did laundry in my room, got coffee and ice cream at the Artisan gourmet place across the street, and then spent 2.5 hrs having dinner and beer with Robert & Anne at Big Pillow Brewing (also next door). Big Pillow was quite lively and the Karaoke was riveting! (See video).
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    • Day 22

      Day 22 of AT in NC NOBO

      May 23, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

      Max Patch roadside tent area (mile marker # 254.3) to Deer Park Mountain Shelter (#271.7)
      Daily Mileage: 17.4

      A decent night of sleep last night and another glorious day to trek the 0.8 miles up to the top of Max Patch for breakfast at 9:00. True 360 degree views from the top (4,600 ft). Decent enough weather for a video (a bit windy!) and for calling home to speak with family. In years gone by, you could tent up on top of the Max Patch bald, but they forbidden it over the past 2 years to allow vegetation and the bio-diversity to regenerate.

      Was able to make some decent mileage this afternoon even though I stopped to make some phone calls (as I actually got some AT&T service!), took some pics & vids, and spoke to quite a few people (a few of which I would see tonight at the shelter).

      Hopped over the 4,700 ft Bluff Mountain by mid afternoon and then had a flat to downhill 8.0 mile ridge run all the way to Deer Park Mtn Shelter.

      I was joined for the evening by a cast of fun characters. A fun loving 28 year old Aussie who was running out of food and had just done a 24 mile day (I gave him some dinner).
      A Chinese gal who had come over from Beijing during COVID and resides in San Jose CA. We talked about what it was like to be locked down during COVID in China and she said it was quite the scene. Couldn’t go out of the apartment but the government did send people food care packages. Once they sent a live chicken! 😳
      Two 60 year gals (one who had successfully thru hiked back in 2011) who were doing a section hike from their homes in Erwin TN (75 miles up the trail). One was from Sweden originally, and the other was an Army brat who had lived in Japan, Hawaii, Virginia, etc. growing up. They used to take in thru hikers for a number of years but had officially stopped, though they extended an invitation to me when I get up to Erwin either next week or when I return down next Spring to continue hiking North.

      The last couple was a husband & wife team who I would hike quite a bit with and would spend a lot of time in the coming days. Both in their early 60’s, Robert (“Short Story”) and Anne (“Downhill”) live in Chapel Hill NC and it’s the second marriage for each. They have a blended family of 7 kids and 3 grandkids. It was quite the scandal 25 years ago when they left their respective spouses to get married when their oldest kids were in the 3rd grade. Anne grew up in Fairfield CT down the street from Karina (don’t know any of the same people due to age difference) and he lived in Ridgefield CT. Such a wonderful couple and it was fun hearing about their careers and the lives of their kids. They do well for themselves and are hoping to finish section hiking the trail in 4-5 years. They are at mile 800 (total) out of 2,200 right now. Both of them have run 2 NYC Marathons together and numerous other Marathons and Ultras, so we didn’t have a lack of things to talk about!
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    • Day 21

      Day 21 of AT in NC NOBO

      May 22, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

      Green Corner Road drop off spot (mile marker 241.8) to Max Patch Roadside tent area (#254.3).
      Daily mileage: 12.5

      Nate dropped me back off at Green Corner Rd at 10:45 am and I immediately headed 4 miles straight uphill to the top of Snowbird Peak (4,300 ft Elev). The run of great weather continues with sunny skies and a high @ 65 at the higher elevations. A pretty view from Snowbird, but seeing as I got a late start, I wanted to quickly get going on some miles for the day.

      Passed Groundhog Creek Shelter and numerous ups and downs on the 8 mile afternoon journey to my evening tent spot just below Max Patch. A small tenting area right next to the gravel road that cars take up to the Max Patch parking lot. Was all by myself tonight and got set up for camp and ate dinner @ 7pm. No bear sightings and only a couple of cars zooming up the road at @ 2am (to get up to the top in time for the sunrise?).

      Did have a fun surprise at 7:45 pm. Who showed up coincidentally on the gravel road to drop of 2 hikers but Nate! He’s amazing, he goes all day from 4:30 am to 9pm six days a week shuttling hikers to and fro. He’ll be shuttling me to the Asheville NC airport to fly home in 10 days.
      The husband and wife tandem he dropped off I would get to know extremely well over the next 4 days. More to come on that!
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Madison County, مقاطعة ماديسون, Медисън, মেডিশন কাউন্টি, Condado de Madison, Madison konderria, شهرستان مدیسون، کارولینای شمالی, Comté de Madison, Madison megye, Contea di Madison, マディソン郡, Madison Kūn, Hrabstwo Madison, میڈیسن کاؤنٹی، اتلا کیرولینا, Comitatul Madison, Мэдисон, Округ Медисон, Медісон, میڈیسن کاؤنٹی، شمالی کیرولائنا, Quận Madison, Condado han Madison, 麥迪遜縣

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