• The World on Two Wheels
aug. – okt. 2023

2023 Itzonagen European Ride

Early in 2018 I started making plans for a new European Cycling Adventure, to be conducted in September 2020. However, Covid 19 put a stop to those plans for three years. Now finally "Itzonagen". Läs mer
  • Resans start
    18 augusti 2023

    The Itzonagen Ride

    6 februari 2023, Australien ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Way back on March 2nd, 2019 I conducted an Information Meeting for those interested in joining me on a new European ride, timed for August and September 2020. Planning for that trip had actually started way back in early 2018, but it was now finally in a form ready to present to potential participants.

    The original plan was for a two-part ride. The first part would be a weeklong bike/barge along the Moselle River from Saarburg to Koblenz. This was to be followed by a two-week ride around the Ardenne Region of Central Europe.

    The plan was obviously well received, as within a couple of days we had enough confirmed starters to guarantee that the rides would go ahead. Of course, what we didn't know then was that the world was about to tumble into a global pandemic called Covid 19. By early the next year, the pandemic was sweeping across the globe with such speed that all international travel stopped almost overnight.

    This immediately impacted our planned trip for 2020. It was first postponed by 12 months, then 2 years as the pandemic continued to cause havoc. It was only in 2022 that international travel finally started to open up again and I was able to have another look at our long-delayed adventure.

    The problem I was faced with was that the delays had also impacted the plans for subsequent European rides. There had been something of a "concertina effect". When dealing with riders who are of advancing years, I did not want to tell them that they would have to wait even longer before we could get underway again.

    Thus began a complete rethink of the plans for 2023. I started to explore all sorts of permutations to see if it would be possible to combine two years of cycling adventures into a single "MEGA TRIP". It certainly was something akin to a giant puzzle, trying to fit dates, destinations, ride directions and distances into something that would be feasible.

    Eventually I ended up with no less than 6 rides that would be linked together to become a 2023 Cycling Spectacular. It was easily going to be the most complex series of rides I had undertaken since the epic 2016 European Odyssey Ride.

    The final plan was to arrive in Amsterdam, then travel to Maastricht to begin the two-week ride around the Ardenne Region. We would then proceed to Koblenz to start the weeklong bike/barge along the Moselle to Saarburg. The group would then split into two smaller groups with one group going on to complete a weeklong ride along the Danube from Passau to Vienna. At the same time the second group were to go to the start of the Danube at Donaueschingen and ride through to Ulm. They would then divert to complete a loop of Lake Constance, before going to France to ride the Canal du Nivernais. If it sounds complicated, it is because it really was.

    The new plans were announced midway through 2022 to see how they would be received. The response was overwhelming. Not only would all the rides go ahead as planned, but the size of the group actually grew to 29 riders !

    Now that we could all start having a new adventure to look forward to, I also needed a name for the overall trip. It has been customary to give each adventure a title. Since this one had been delayed for 3 years, I thought that an apt name would be the Itzonagen Ride. No, it is not a town in Switzerland, it is because "it's on again". Simple.

    Since confirming the details, our riders have been busy booking flights and additional accommodation. Now that we are almost within 6 months of departure, I believe that most of these details are now sorted.

    And how many sleeps to go ? I think that is is around 190 and counting. You are now invited to follow this adventure via this blog site. It really has been a long time since the first plans were made in 2018, but finally Itzonagen.
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  • Six Months and Counting

    20 februari 2023, Australien

    There is something especially significant about the six month countdown to departure. For this trip it is even more exciting, since it had been postponed multiple times due to Covid 19.

    But here we are. In just six months time our team will be forming in Amsterdam and the adventure will finally be beginning. By now all the major components of the trip are finalised, and it is only the minor parts remaining to be sorted out.

    Our biggest concern is now the health of our team members. At this point in time we have one rider recovering after recent surgery, another facing treatment and yet another suffering from a serious shingles infection. My main wish is that every one of the riders is in good health when we finally get underway. I certainly don't want any more medical situations in the next six months.

    The next main event for our team is a special lunch on Friday March 17th. This will be the first time all our Melbourne based participants will be able to be in the same place at the same time. It will be a good chance to share advice and travel stories from previous trips.

    In late April we have a week long cycling trip to the Surf Coast Region of Victoria. That will be a good dress rehearsal for Europe and a chance for our riders to assess their ability to ride on a string of consecutive days.

    And the number of sleeps ? I think it must now be about 179.
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  • Five Months and Counting

    18 mars 2023, Australien ⋅ 🌬 27 °C

    It seems like it was only a month ago that I was saying that we only have six months to go before departure, but now the calendar is telling me that we have reached the even more exciting milestone of five months.

    When we consider that the planning for this adventure actually began five years ago, I guess we have reason to be impatient. The normal lead time from original concept to departure is typically two years. Five years is really a tad long, especially when our team members are growing older by the minute, let alone by the year.

    Of course the repeated delays we caused by the intervention of a Covid pandemic - not something that I considered even in my wildest dreams. The original trip was postponed multiple times, until I began to think that it was never going to happen.

    The initial plan was to have a two part trip. The first part would be a week long bike and barge along the Moselle from Saarburg to Koblenz, and this would be followed by a two week ride around the Ardennes Region of Central Europe.

    The multiple delays impacted, not only the trip that was originally planned for 2020, but also a subsequent European ride that had been planned for 2021. It was only after the pandemic began to finally subside that I started to consider the possibility of combining two years of rides into a single, multistage, extended trip.

    Over a period of months the options were examined from every angle. Maggie and I spent hours with calendars, maps and the all powerful Google search engine, to try to find a workable solution to the puzzle. Gradually a possible itinerary evolved, but it was quite different to the original plan.

    The new plans meant that we would do the Ardennes Ride first, then ride the Moselle in the upstream direction from Koblenz to Saarburg. The group would then split into two parts, with one group proceeding to ride the Danube from Passau to Vienna, while the other group went on to complete three more rides in Germany, Switzerland and France. Yes, it was complicated, and easily the biggest cycling adventure that UTRACKS would be overseeing in 2023.

    With a total of 29 participants, the sheer size of our group made for some serious logistical challenges. Many hotels were unwilling to take bookings for a large number of rooms, and at times, it really looked like we had hit yet another roadblock. Fortunately the problems were gradually resolved and our final plans were confirmed.

    Yesterday we had our first (and last) team meeting with the Melbourne based members of our group. It was exciting to finally see so many of our travelers all together in the same place, all happily chatting and sharing their experiences together.

    After a wonderful lunch, I was able to share some more detailed information about the upcoming trip. The next time we have the group together again will be when we are in Europe in August.

    Now it's only about 150 sleeps to go.
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  • Getting Close Now

    19 april 2023, Australien ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    I have to admit that there have been times on our previous overseas rides when I wondered how many of our participants would actually make it all the way to the finish line. We have experienced everything from cuts and abrasions to broken legs and heart attacks during some of our rides, however this is the first time that I have had reason to doubt whether all our riders would even make it to the start of the ride.

    Perhaps it is due to the increasing age of the riders, or perhaps it is just pure bad luck. Whatever the reason, we do seem to have been beset by a serious of health issues in these final few months before departure. No sooner does one person recover from their malady, than another one steps in to take their place on the sick roll.

    After postponing this trip so many times because of Covid 19, it would be devastating if anyone had to withdraw at this late stage. Nothing would give me greater pleasure than to have the full complement of participants all happily and safely gathered at the start of our adventure in Maastricht.

    Now that we are under four months to go till we get underway, it really is finally starting to seem imminent. Next week we have our final extended cycling trip in Victoria, before all our attention turns to Europe.

    On Sunday we will be leaving to ride all the major bike trails in Western Victoria. This includes the Bellarine Trail, the Warrnambool to Port Fairy, the Port Campbell to Timboon, the Timboon to Cobden and the Old Beechy Trail from Colac to Gellibrand. The advance weather forecast is looking pretty good, so I am hoping for a rain free cycling week.

    For many of our riders, it will a good indicator of their ability to ride multiple days in succession. If they can cope with that, they should have no fears about the cycling in Europe. The daily distances that we will be riding in Western Victoria are very similar to the distances we will be doing each day in Europe. Let's hope that no one suffers a mishap!

    According to my calculations, we now have only 125 sleeps to go before we head to the airport.
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  • Three weeks to go and Disaster Strikes

    26 juli 2023, Australien ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Normally when you get to this late stage of proceedings, there are only a few last minute loose ends to attend to. This trip has however, been anything but ordinary. Not only has it been postponed for three years because of Covid, but our team members seem to be intent on doing everything in their power to injure themselves before we even start.

    About a month ago Gael had such an incident while standing under the shower at home. When she noticed the bathroom starting to look like a Turkish sauna, she realised that she had forgotten to turn the exhaust fan on. At that point things took a nasty turn.

    She could have just ignored the steam and enjoyed the rest of her shower, however something persuaded her to reach out and try to reach the switch. It was the wrong thing to do. In a split second, she slipped on the wet floor and fell heavily on her hip. Unfortunately humans do not bounce like rubber balls, and she quickly knew that something bad had happened.

    Although initial Xrays did not show major damage, when she did not recover over the next few weeks, a further scan showed a hairline crack in the femur. The end result was that she found herself in the operating room, allowing the orthopedic surgeon to rebuild the top half of her leg. A couple of hours (and a bucket load of screws, rods, brackets and hinges) later, the job was done. And unfortunately, so was her participation in the upcoming ride.

    Gael and Gerry had been part of our plans since the beginning and it was heartbreaking for them and the entire team to see them have to withdraw at this late stage. This now reduces our total team to 28 riders. I have now given strict orders to the rest of the team not to do anything stupid, between now and the departure date. I don't think any of them took any notice whatsoever.

    And as for myself, I am not going to relax until I am sitting in the plane at Tullamarine, waiting to finally take off.
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  • The Final Countdown

    11 augusti 2023, Australien ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    There is something really significant about reaching the point when your departure is less than a week away. This is especially true when the trip has been five years in the making.

    According to the calendar, by this time next week, we will an hour into our flight and we will be somewhere over NSW. Hopefully all our luggage will also be on the plane with us.

    By this stage everyone should be in the very final stages of their packing and preparation. So where do I stand in this regard ?
    Final packing - almost done
    All accommodation bookings made - I hope so
    Transfers and train tickets done - that was David's job
    Passport ready ? - yes
    Other documents sorted and packed - mostly
    Financial matters under control - you have to be kidding
    Cycling training completed - in a fashion
    All notes and documents carefully studied - there are not enough hours in the day
    Electrical devices, cables, chargers, adapters, etc - checked and ready

    At this stage of proceedings it is normal to feel a mixture of excitement and panic. Excitement that our long awaited adventure is finally about to start, and panic because there is always that nagging feeling at the back of your mind that some important item has been overlooked.

    You would think that, after doing so many previous cycling trips, that I would have everything down to a smooth routine. You might think that, but you could also be mistaken. Sometimes I feel like that proverbial duck, calmy floating on the lake. On the surface all looks peaceful and serene, but under the water the little webbed feet are paddling like crazy.

    Actually I am looking forward to finally being able to settle my ample backside into the designated plane seat, and waiting for take off. By that stage anything that was forgotten or undone, will remain undone.

    If there is one thing I have learnt from all my previous trips, it is that, no matter what happens, everything will work out in the end. On such a complex and lengthy trip, it is almost certain that not everything will go exactly according to plan. At such times you can either panic, or examine the situation and work out the best solution. Although we don't want such situations to arise, sometimes they are the times that participants look back on in years ahead with the most affection.

    Travel is meant to be an adventure, and we always need to leave room for the true magic to take place.

    The next time most of our team will be together will be when we meet together at the Hotel Wiechmann in Amsterdam. I hope that those who are reading this account back in Australia will be sharing the journey with us.
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  • Day One and Disaster (almost) Strikes

    19 augusti 2023, Nederländerna ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Day One and Disaster (almost) Strikes

    Anyone who has experienced travel to the other side of the planet, would have to admit that there is no way that the flight over could be called pleasant. No one enjoys being squashed inside a metal sarcophagus with 300 or 400 others for around 24 hours. No one could enjoy the sensation of sitting in a seat for so long, while you can gradually feel your extremities losing all circulation. But that’s exactly what 10 of us have just done.

    The trip actually started early on Friday morning. For Maggie and me, the day began with a 5.30 am alarm. Not that we had really slept much that night. It is hard to venture to the Land of Nod when there are just so many active thoughts rushing through your consciousness.

    After hours of fruitless tossing and turning, I was actually glad when the alarm went, and we were able to start the long journey to Europe. We had organised for an airport shuttle to collect us and four others at 9 am. You can imagine my surprise when I happened to glance out the front window at 8 am, to see that the shuttle was already waiting. As I remember it, I didn’t even have my pants on!

    I messaged the driver, in case there had been a mixup with the pickup time. He informed me that he had just finished another job, and that he was happy to wait. First crisis averted.

    An hour later we had locked the front door and loaded our bags into the van. We were on our way at last. About fifteen minutes later we were joined by Gordon and Sue, and Greg and Andrea. We shared some light hearted chatter as we made our way to the airport. Somewhat surprisingly, the traffic flowed so smoothly that we reached Tullamarine about 10.10 am. At that rate we would be in Amsterdam before we knew it.

    The old days of interacting with a real human being at check in time are long since gone. Now everything is processed by a robot, including checkin, bag drop and immigration clearance. I used to enjoy a bit of small talk with the airline staff, but it is hard to chat to a faceless robot.

    The scheduled take off time for the first leg of our flight was 2.25 pm. We were all hoping for a punctual start, since we knew that our transit time in Hong Kong was going to be very tight. When boarding time started behind schedule, I was ultra keen not to keep the plane waiting for us. This almost turned out to be a truly disastrous move.

    The line of passengers moved relatively quickly, and Maggie and I dropped into our allocated seats. “Well that’s the first step done”, I explained to Maggie. In fact it was nowhere near done. Just as we were trying to squeeze ourselves into our seats, Gordon walked down the aisle and dropped a familiar looking item on my lap. Now where had I seen that thing before ? Hang on, it looked a lot like my wallet. It WAS my wallet, filled with cash, credit cards, driving license and other personal birthrights.

    Apparently in my haste I had dropped it under the seat in the departure lounge. If an honest child had not noticed it and reported it to Gordon, my trip would really have gotten off to a terrible start. For a while we were both quite shaken as we contemplated the possible consequences. Maybe the lesson is to always act in a careful and controlled manner, and always check that your personal items are with you. Acting in haste is never a great idea. But then again, when do I ever take my own advice ?

    With the wallet safely back in my possession, I thought that nothing else could go wrong. I was a little concerned when the flight finally took off about 30 minutes late. I was even more concerned when the pilot decided to take the long way to Hong Kong (making a couple of laps around Sydney), and thereby adding another 30 minutes or so to the flight time.

    The, already tight, transit time of 60 minutes, had now shrunk almost to zero. We finally touched down at Hong Kong at about the same time our connecting flight to Amsterdam was due to take off. In the immortal words of Corporal Jones, I felt myself saying “Don’t panic, don’t panic”, but at the same time picturing that this would not have a good outcome.

    We were rushed off the plane and ushered to a waiting Cathay Pacific rep. She then instructed us to follow her to the next flight. Well we tried to do that, but she immediately broke into a fast sprint that would have done Cathy Freeman proud. We lumbered along behind, vainly trying to keep her retreating hind quarters in sight. Didn’t she realise that we are not teenagers? We are no longer even middle aged. We are fully fledged “old farts” now, and this seemed to be an ill conceived procedure. Even if we managed to reach the flight, I was very doubtful that our luggage would be able to run as fast as us.

    Somehow we defied the laws of Physics and common sense, and avoided dual heart attacks, as we finally flopped into the second plane, just as the doors were closing. It really had been a close call. Soon we were back in the air, wondering just where our bags would be heading. Would they be heading off somewhere else on their own independent adventure ?

    The second leg of the journey was a thirteen-hour marathon, weaving up and down around numerous countries we had never heard of. I was more than a little concerned when the on-screen tracker showed us heading straight for Crimea, however we veered south at the last minute, to skirt over Turkey instead.

    Our landing at Amsterdam took place at around 6 am, just as the sun was appearing over the eastern horizon. We quickly cleared immigration and staggered forlornly to the Baggage Collection Area. We felt that it would take a miracle for our luggage to appear, however we were shown that miracles still do occur. All our bags somehow miraculously made the transit safely. We finally thought that our long day had reached a most satisfactory conclusion. The only thing left was the short shuttle transfer to our hotel. Easy Peasey, or so we thought.

    David had been entrusted with this easy job, and he assured us that "everything was arranged". But where was the driver? We walked up and down the airport, looking for a man with a sign. There wasn’t one. After about 45 minutes of fruitless searching, we were finally able to contact the company. They had obviously forgotten us. They arranged for another van and driver to collect us. It was a bit of extra stress that we could have done without.

    We arrived at the wonderful Wiechmann Hotel far too early to get access to our rooms, so we dropped our luggage and went for a walk (ie stagger) to the beautiful Vondelpark. It was the perfect location to relax, have a coffee and indulge in some people watching. This is the preferred place for Amsterdam folks to walk, jog, walk their dog or enjoy a coffee.

    It did not take long for the heat and humidity to take its toll. We were all completely exhausted, so much so that it took all our strength to make it back to our hotel to finally get to our rooms. According to my calculations, it had been around 50 hours since any of us had been in a bed, and we were not in a pleasant state.

    Along the way I happened to see a terrifying sight. We were approached by a group of mentally deranged people, all with bloodshot eyes, idiotic blank stares and staggering gaits. Surely the world had not been over-run by a zombie apocalypse since we left Australia? Unfortunately, it turned out to be our own reflections I was seeing in a shop window.

    In spite of the mishaps, we were all now safely in Amsterdam, our luggage was still with us, and another wonderful adventure is about to begin.

    You can join us if you wish.
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  • Good Morning Amsterdam

    20 augusti 2023, Nederländerna ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    "Fine and sunny, with a top temperature of 25C", promised the weather forecast for our first full day in Amsterdam. I don't suppose that gave anyone due cause for complaint.

    It is also amazing what a huge difference eight hours sleep makes. Yesterday our group looked terrible enough to instill fear in children and large dogs, but as we gathered for breakfast this morning, everyone had regained their smiles, energy and a small amount of their mental faculties as well. We were all looking forward to our first full day enjoying and exploring Amsterdam.

    Maggie and I had already done our own share of early morning exploring. We had awoken at 5.30 am and, since neither of us felt like going back to sleep, we dressed and headed off into the predawn streets of the city. This is always a lovely time to walk, when the streets are quiet and the air is fresh and cool.

    My own mental state would have been even better if I had been able to resolve the issue with my non functioning VISA debit card. Since it had now been declined at establishments all over the city, I had to deduce that something sinister was going on.

    After spending a fruitless 30 minutes trying to contact the 24/7 "customer support team" (aka the completely useless and non responsive robot assistant), I decided if the problem was going to be solved, I would have to do it myself. And that is what I did. Even though I had previously explained to the NAB bankers that I was travelling to Europe and wanted all the arrangements to be in place, they had thoughtfully put a block on all overseas transactions. Absolutely brilliant of them.

    After some time poking around on the NAB online banking website, I finally found the way to unlock the VISA constipation which had plagued our first day. I almost ran down the stairs (actually almost a ladder) to the reception desk. They tested the unlocked card, and it worked. My stress level dropped by about 90%.

    Back at the hotel for breakfast, we saw a familiar face come walking in the door. Actually, it was more than just a face, it was the latest member of the team. Pascale had just arrived from Melbourne and had somehow managed to still look human and awake.

    With our numbers now increasing steadily, we discussed how to spend the day. Nine of us decided to make a trip to the famous STRAART Musuem. This is a huge, old industrial area which has now been converted into a place for artists and sculptors to display their work.

    To get there we had to first walk to Centraal Station, and then catch a free ferry to the other side of the harbour. It proved to be a nice escape from the crowds in central Amsterdam, and the massive buildings were actually more interesting than the artwork. We could only imagine what these places would have looked like when they were filled with 100s of workers.

    By around 1 pm, we were starting to feel the delayed effects of exhaustion and found that our feet had somehow started to feel like we were wearing concrete shoes. It was time to head back to the sanctuary of the hotel.

    We managed to get on the correct ferry back the Centraal Station. We even managed to successfully navigate back to the correct street. We even managed to (initially) start walking in the correct direction. What could possibly go wrong ? Actually Gordon went wrong.

    "I think we should be going in the other direction", he suggested. I looked around and started to doubt myself. Maybe he was right. I told the walking peloton that we would have to turn around and retrace the last 20 mins of walking. And that is what we did.

    After about another 30 mins of walking in the opposite direction, we all started to doubt ourselves. This definitely did not look right. I checked the street name, to discover that the street name had changed. This was the last thing we needed.

    "OK folks, it's time to turn around again", The group executed a second U turn and started to head back in the same direction I had originally chosen. The last 45 minutes had been wasted. I could now relate to the famous grand old Duke of York, fruitlessly marching his men up and down the hill.

    Somehow, we finally reached the familiar hotel and collapsed into the large chairs in the lounge. It had been a long day, but we were so pleased to be joined by Ken and Pauline, who had spent the last couple of days in The Hague. The contingent of Ghostriders at the hotel had now swollen to 13.

    It had been another long day, terminating in another early night. According to my watch we had walked over 15,000 steps (mostly in the wrong direction).

    Good Night Amsterdam.
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  • Getting to Know You

    21 augusti 2023, Nederländerna ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Whenever you first arrive at a new city, everything seems strange and confusing. It is easy to lose your bearings and feel disoriented whenever you step far away from the hotel. It takes time to recognise familiar landmarks and common routes.

    A couple of days later, it is usually completely different. You start to build up a mental framework of the layout of the city and gain confidence in exploring, without the overwhelming fear that you will get lost. And this is the case with our time in Amsterdam.

    We awoke to another completely clear blue sky and the prospect of a hot day ahead. After the marathon we walked yesterday, I had no desire to try to set some sort of new personal record today. That is why I suggested that the Vondel Park would be a lovely place to spend another couple of hours.

    This morning we were also joined by the final four members of the Amsterdam group. Paul and Catriona Wansbrough and Allan and Sarah Barlin walked in to the hotel just after breakfast, bearing the unmistakable signs of long haul flight delirium. Although Allan has been a regular participant in Ghostrider adventures since I first met him in Kathmandu in 2002, I had not seen Paul and Catriona since our Scandinavian rides in 2014. And, for Allan's daughter Sarah, this will be her first experience of travelling with an eccentric group of people, mostly old enough to be her grandparents.

    After welcoming the new arrivals, I suggested that it would be good for the men and women to head in different directions. While the women all happily looked for shopping opportunities, I took seven of the men and headed for the familiar sanctuary of the Vondel Park.

    We settled into a nice table and were recognised by the same waiter who had served us two days earlier. What followed next was two hours of wide ranging conversation (aka "secret men's business"). Of course, I cannot divulge such private details here, so I won't even try.

    After we ran out of things to talk about, we started the walk back to the hotel. Michael had only walked about 50 metres, before stating that he could walk no further, and insisted on catching the tram instead. Ken reluctantly agreed to accompany him as his carer. The rest of us walked.

    A short time later five of us were back at the hotel, resting in the lounge room, but Michael and Ken were nowhere to be seen. Funny that. They eventually staggered in the door about twenty minutes later, with some doubtful tale about the tram door not opening and keeping them trapped far past their intended stop. I did not believe it for a minute.

    Meanwhile the women had apparently enjoyed a lovely time spending their husbands' retirement funds, and laughing hysterically at the same time. Although the chocolate shop that they had originally headed for turned out to be shut, there were plenty of other shops that were very happy to welcome them and their credit cards.

    Later today we plan to head back to the Vondel Park with ingredients for a late afternoon picnic on the grass. It should be fun.
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  • A Picnic in the Park

    22 augusti 2023, Nederländerna ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Following our huge day of walking around Amsterdam, I suggested that some might like to enjoy an evening picnic in the Vondel Park. This would be cheaper than supporting another Amsterdam restaurant, and we could all enjoy the green surroundings.

    Twelve of the group took me up on this suggestion. We first visited the local supermarket to collect supplies (mostly fruit, salads and drinks), and then walked to the park. Fortunately, the heat of the afternoon had dissipated, and the cooler evening air had taken its place.

    We quickly discovered that thousands of others had also decided to enjoy the park as well. It really is a popular place for Amsterdammers to relax after a long day at work.

    We did however manage to find a lovely patch of grass and settled down to a chat and our long awaited picnic. It soon became evident that our eyes were much bigger than our tummies. We simply had purchased far too much food. We probably had enough to feed another ten people. Oh well, that happens.

    After the picnic we wandered slowly back to our hotel. After three days in Amsterdam, we are all starting to feel much more confident in finding our way through the maze of streets and canals.

    Back at the hotel, we gathered in the lounge room. This has sort of become our unofficial headquarters (mainly because of the free coffee machine). It did not take long for Paul and Catriona to bid us goodnight and head off to their room. They disappeared up the stairs and we soon forgot about them.

    About ten minutes later we were somewhat surprised when both of them reappeared in the lounge room. "Why are you back ?", I asked. "We went all the way up the wrong stairs", was the grumpy reply. When climbing four flights of stairs requires about as much energy and dexterity as summiting K2, I could understand why they were unhappy. They will never make that mistake again (although they almost replicated the event the very next morning).

    After a great night's sleep, we awoke to our last full day in Amsterdam. We did not want to set a new record for the number of steps completed in a single day, so we settled for something much less energetic - a boat cruise.

    Fifteen of us parted with 20 Euro for a ticket and were soon climbing aboard a lovely open boat. The captain was a lanky, 23 year old blond guy. The cruise was meant to take an hour, but it ended up taking considerably longer than planned. I would have to say that the young captain did a great job and most of us were almost asleep at the end.

    Tomorrow morning we catch the train from Amsterdam to Maastricht, where our ride will begin.
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  • A (Very) Chance Encounter

    23 augusti 2023, Nederländerna ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Sometimes it is surprising that you can bump into someone you know, even when you are travelling thousands of miles from home. Yesterday Greg took this one step further.

    While walking around Amsterdam, he happened to meet a fellow Australian. Since Greg is a garrulous guy, they started chatting. WHen Greg asked him where he was from, the answer was Melbourne (not that surprising). "Oh, which part of Melbourne ?". The answer was Emerald (a bit more surprising). Greg explained that he used to live in Emerald, and further questioning revealed that Greg's new friend was actually living in the same street ! This was getting interesting. The real icing on the probability pie was that when Greg asked what house number he was living in, it turned out to be the very same house that Greg had sold 13 years ago. You would have to admit that it was probably a bigger long shot than winning Tattslotto.

    Today was the day for our group to travel from Amsterdam to Maastricht. This city is now most famous for being the place where Andre Rieu regularly adds to his overflowing bank account by staging those cheesy outdoor summer concerts. It is also the town where our ride will start.

    Before we could get to Maastricht I first had to work out a way to get 17 Australians and their huge suitcases from the Wiechmann Hotel to Amsterdam Central Station. Maggie and I had spent quite a deal of time trying to work out a practical solution to this problem - one that involved multiple taxis, some people who could not walk, other that did not want to walk, and a multitude of other considerations,

    This morning, when I went down to breakfast, I was still trying to work out a solution to this problem, when something quite miraculous happened. A large black shiny minibus parked on the footpath right outside the breakfast room window. The wheels in my mind started slowly turning. If only we could get a big bus like that, our problem would be solved.

    I watched as the driver got out of his bus and came into the hotel. He even helped himself to some food from our breakfast buffet. This was my chance to strike. When I asked if he might be available, he seemed not only available, but keen to assist us.

    Within a couple of minutes, we had devised a plan for him to make three trips back and forth, each time carrying six passengers and their luggage. The cost worked out at a modest $10 AUD each, so it was a win-win for everyone concerned. It was another amazing example of how the solution to a problem often just walks up to you and pokes you in the eye.

    A little later in the morning, all of us were safely at the Central Station, ready to board our special, low coast, off peak train service to Maastricht. The cost for each of us was a modest 7 Euro to get us all the way to our destination, several hundred km away.

    We climbed aboard the train and settled down into the baggage storage area with Greg, Andrea, Michael and Christine. Our bags were securely tucked away in the opposite corner of the compartment. The only problem was that, as soon as the train braked a little, our bags all went happily rolling away on their own private excursion. I had visions of them rolling all the way into the next carriage.

    It was at this point that Michael adopted his famous "Inspector Gadget" persona, producing a pocket full of caribiners, ropes, pulleys, clothes pegs and other assorted items. He then proceeded to spend the next 15 minutes securing all the bags in one huge bundle. It was quite a sight, I had to admit that I had never seen anything like it. I wondered how we would ever get them unsecured, when the time came to get off the train.

    Somehow it all worked out OK, and at around 1 pm we were all climbing off the train into the very warm sunshine in Maastricht. Our first impressions of this city were certainly very positive. With its elegant buildings and clean wide streets, it certainly was very different to Amsterdam.

    Some of our group decided to head direct to the hotel, while we went in search of lunch instead. We found a lovely shady location and enjoyed a relaxing lunch, before making our way to the Valk Hotel.

    The hotel is a complete opposite to the Hotel Wiechmannl. It is a huge, ultra modern, place on the edge of the city. It was even equipped with elevators and air conditioning. Although this is not my preferred style of hotel, it was nice having room to spread out (and the bathroom was amazing).

    Tomorrow, we have our last free day, before we stop walking and start riding.
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  • Very Muggy in Maastricht

    24 augusti 2023, Nederländerna ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    We awoke to another hot and (very) humid day in Maastricht. I also awoke to find that the hotel had charged me about double what I had expected for our two night's accommodation. When I approached the reception with an irate look on my face, the girl behind the desk seemed to lose her ability to speak clear English. I think she explained to me in Dutch that the money would eventually be refunded (provided I lived to reach 90).

    Since the hotel is in a business precinct, there are really no other options than to have breakfast in their fancy restaurant. I have to admit there were a huge number of food selections, although I could not find most of them. It was a bit like going shopping in an unfamiliar supermarket, where nothing is where you would logically expect it to be.

    Maggie tried to use the coffee machine and only ended up in spilling hot milk, coffee and boiling slop all over the machine. She brought the final messy result back to me, and then tried to pretend that she had done it on purpose, just for me.

    I am not sure if I managed to eat my $40 worth of food, but I gave it my best effort. After breakfast our group all went off in different directions, each on their own search for scenic satisfaction. Michael only made it as far as the hotel door, before he somehow managed to lose his credit card. I really am beginning to think that it is not just Allan that needs a personal carer. The way we are going, I think we all need constant mental supervision.

    Maggie and I managed to reach the centre of Maastricht, without leaving a continuous trail of personal possessions behind us. I headed to the Travelex office, in an attempt to get robbed blind by swapping Canadian dollars for Euro. I know I must have made Mr Travelex very happy in the process, considering the tiny number of Euro I was given in exchange for my $250 CAD.

    The temperature had soared to around 30C, and the humidity made it feel like Singapore, as we staggered to the Old City. Our stamina quickly went to zero and we both looked for somewhere cool and quiet to sit. Somehow we found the Maastricht Archive building. It was quiet and they had a water cooler that dispensed free cups of cold water. I think it was the first free thing we had enjoyed since arriving in Europe.

    After a rest, we ventured back outside to discover that a thunderstorm was brewing. The sky had darkened, and drops of rain were falling. Is it pure irony that the only rain that has fallen since we arrived almost a week ago, has arrived just as our ride is starting ?

    The rain continued for most of the afternoon, but it did bring a welcome relief from the humidity. Maybe the rain will clear before we start riding tomorrow morning. Maybe we will see flying pigs also.
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  • A Thoroughly Wet Start

    25 augusti 2023, Belgien ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    After our time in Amsterdam and Mastricht, we were all looking forward to finally getting on our bikes and riding. We had been told that someone called Erik would meet us at the hotel at 9 am. That would also be the time that we would receive our bikes and get underway on our first ride.

    Although Erik turned up on time, the weather then went completely pear shaped. The sky blackened, and then opened up with a sustained downpour, that soon sent floodwaters into the foyer of the hotel. If that wasn't bad enough, the rain was also accompanied by regular peals of thunder. This was most definitely NOT the way that we had hoped the ride would start.
    At least we used the time to take the obligatory group photos, before venturing out into the elements. With everyone proudly decked out in their Ghostrider shirts, we certainly did make a colourful spectacle. Of course the shirts were immediately then hidden under layers of rain jackets. Michael even took the time to don his infamous oompa loompa rain pants.

    In one brief respite from the rain, we did manage to get our bikes, and have a short test ride, before the skies opened again with even more venom. We waited. And we waited. And we waited some more. No one actually wants to begin a ride in torrential rain, however it was beginning to look like that is what we would have to do.

    Finally, some time after noon, the rain finally stopped. That is when we started. For a few km, we rode in dry conditions, and then the rain started again. It poured, and we got wet. Very wet, The shortcomings of many a so called "rain jacket" quickly became evident.

    In spite of the horrible weather, the group actually maintained a good level of morale. This morale improved greatly when we found a likely looking cafe to stop for lunch. The rain gradually diminished and then stopped altogether. The sun even came out in short bursts, allowing our sodden clothes and shoes to dry out.

    The scenery also improved as we rode close to the bank of the Meuse River. Now this was what we had come so far to enjoy. And that is exactly what we did.

    Although the entry to Liege is rather industrial and somewhat ugly, and the peak hour traffic made our final couple of km to the hotel quite challenging, we had finished the day on quite a high. The forecast for the next couple of days is quite promising, so we might be able to stay dry.

    Tomorrow we ride on to Namur. It will be a much longer ride, so we really hope the weather is kinder to us.
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  • One Rider Crashes, Another Gets Lost

    26 augusti 2023, Belgien ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Completing an extended ride in a foreign country always throws up lots of challenges – some expected and some unexpected. Of course there is the challenge of not speaking the language, riding on the wrong side of the road, trying to control an unfamiliar bike, tormenting your nether regions with a different saddle, the constant packing and unpacking at a multitude of different hotels, and so on. It is certainly not for those who just want a relaxing doddle. They are the ones who take the “all of Europe” bus tours, where they can sleep in the bus for about 18 hours of every day.
    Fortunately, the Ghostriders are made of stronger stuff and always prefer the harder option.

    Our ride today was planned to be around 78 km, as we rode from Lieges to Namur, both in Belgium. At the hotel I divided the riders into two groups. One group was led by myself and the other by David. Everything went well, until we actually left the hotel carpark. That was when the first disaster struck. The road was quite narrow, and some riders decided it would be safer riding on the footpath instead. It turned out to be a bad decision.
    While Maggie was trying to ride onto the footpath, she misjudged the curb, lost control of her bike and fell heavily on her head and shoulder. We had only travelled about 20 metres of the ride, so this was not the ideal start. The fall was a heavy one, leaving her quite stunned. After a few minutes of recovery, we resumed the ride, in search of a better place to examine her wounds more thoroughly.

    Lieges is a heavily industrialised centre, with endless factories, recycling centres, garbage dumps and even a nuclear reactor or two. It is neither an attractive or pleasant place to ride a bike, however we did manage to find a quieter spot by the Meuse River, where Maggie could sit for a while. After some painkillers, she was on her way again, shaken and badly stirred.
    We then twisted and turned through a confusing labyrinth of intersections, underpasses, interminable roadworks, rough cobbles, etc. The city seemed to go on forever. Since the navigation was tricky, we appointed Ken as the tail end Charlie to make sure that no one got left behind. This seemed to be a wise idea, until Michael looked back and noticed that somehow Ken had gone missing. It appeared that we needed a second tail end rider to look after the main tail ender. Or perhaps we should all ride at the back?

    On this trip we have decided to use WhatsApp as the preferred way of communicating between riders. It actually has worked quite well. Not only can we share messages, but we can also call each other. I decided to call Ken and check where he was. I eventually managed to reach him and ask him where he was. “I am waiting at the big power plant”, he replied. Well we could see the big power plant, but it was in front of us. It appeared that Ken had somehow managed to find himself at the front of the entire group. That is a strange place for the tail end rider to find themselves.

    “Stay where you are, we will ride to you”, I instructed. We resumed the ride. We reached the power plant. We looked for Ken. He was nowhere to be seen. Just as we were thinking that he must have continued riding, Allan spotted him. He was on the opposite side of the huge river ! We waved back and forth, and pondered on how to solve this interesting dilemma. A study of the map showed that we would eventually reach a big bridge where Ken could cross back over to the correct side of the river. So that is what we did.

    For the next ten kilometres or so, the main peloton rode on one side of the river, while Ken rode solo on the other. To add to the hilarity, we occasionally waved at each other. Eventually we did reach the bridge and the peloton was reunited again.

    The industrial wasteland continued endlessly. We all hoped that it would eventually come to an end. We passed a huge nuclear power plant. Interesting, but not exactly scenic. Maggie was suffering with the after effects of the fall. If all of that was not enough, a persistent headwind fought us every kilometre of the way.

    At about 40 km from Lieges, we reached the sizeable city of Huy, and looked for a place for lunch. We rode through a big carnival, but every stall was closed. When we finally saw a café, no one needed any persuasion to get off and stop for lunch. We were somewhat surprised to see the first group had also chosen that spot for their lunch spot. But we were in for another shock.

    The café was obviously managed by one of the grumpiest women in Belgium. Everything we did or said resulted in a torrent of abuse from the sour faced vixen. She would have made a perfect prison warden. We could have packed up and ridden on, but we thought this might have been the only opportunity for a feed. So we took the abuse. The food was OK, so it wasn’t a total disaster.

    It was only after we had finished our lunch and paid our money to the battleaxe, that we discovered we had made a big mistake. Just around the corner was a spectacular city square, complete with numerous outdoor eateries. Any of them would have made a glorious place to stop. Life is like that sometimes.

    The final 30 km after lunch became a real test of rear end suffering. The second day of a ride is when you really feel every uncomfortable perturbation on your rear anatomy. In the fullness of time, everyone learns to come to terms with their new saddles, but day two is when the suffering reaches its zenith. I tried sitting forwards, I tried sitting back, I lifted my backside from the seat. It hurt all the time. It was a long 30 km, but we had finally left the ugly factories behind. We were now able to enjoy much more pleasant riding alongside the river, regularly punctuated by small locks and villages.

    We did not reach the hotel in Namur until around 5 pm. It had been a long and tiring day, and we were all relieved to stagger off the bikes and seek the solace of our hotel. Our home for the night was the fascinating Hotel Les Tanneurs, a delightful 4 star hotel with the most confusing tangle of rooms, levels and staircases I have ever seen. Navigating within its walls proved to be more challenging than trying to discover King Tutankhamen’s famous Tomb.

    Tomorrow, we continue our ride to the smaller town of Givet.
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  • Bonjour France, but What a Hotel

    27 augusti 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    The prospect of a shorter ride of around 60 km, meant that our backsides would not be punished quite so cruelly today. The weather also came to the party by giving us a cool, but fine day that would be ideal for riding.
    We divided the riders into two groups, one led by Pascale and the other by Gordon. We have discovered the huge advantage that having a GPS can be on these rides, as compared to trying to follow the route with paper maps. Fortunately quite a few of our riders have come electronically enabled, and we have generally been able to find our way with a minimum of fuss. (Off course having a huge river like the Meuse to follow, also has some advantages).

    After winding our way back through Namur, we joined the riverside bike path and happily made our way towards Givet. We hadn’t ridden far before we found a trailside booth selling fresh strawberries. That seemed like a heaven sent opportunity to stop. We all contributed to increasing the proprietor’s retirement fund, and then sat down to feast on the lovely red berries. It is this type of unplanned highlight that really make such rides so amazing.

    For Carol, the strawberry stop was memorable for another reason. In spite of all our loud warnings she somehow managed to stand in a large, fresh dog turd. The next few minutes were spent trying vainly to remove the foul acretion by wildy rubbing her shoe on every blade of grass in the area.

    After the strawberry stop, we continued on our way in search of the next highlight. The notes told wonderful stories about a fantastic garden that featured cascading water fountains. They were supposed to be around 17 km from Namur. When we reached that location we found Allan and Sarah standing by the trail. They explained that the &%$@% garden was at the top of a huge hill, and so they had deserted from group one and decided to join us instead.

    With the information provided by Allan and Sarah, we quickly made the decision that we were not that interested in gardens after all. It turned out to be a great idea, as we soon stumbled upon a lovely café that specialised in making decadent crepes. It was obviously meant to be.

    After further filling of our faces and stomachs, we climbed back on our bikes to continue to the next significant city of Dinant. The timing was perfect, as we arrived just as a passing rain shower hit. We settled down at a popular riverside café precinct for lunch. Since dinner tonight was not provided, we all knew that we needed to have a significant lunch instead.

    The final section of the ride took us to the smaller town of Givet.

    Accommodation in this town was very difficult to find, and that is why the trip operator was somewhat apologetic when they explained that the only place that would take such a large group was the aptly named “Budget Ibis”. Budget by name and even worse by nature, this place really was a shocker.

    We entered into a dark, depressing and very hot foyer, where we were greeted by a vending machine. Our bikes were bundled into about half a dozen different guest rooms (although the hotel was quite large, I think we were the only guests). When our room keys were handed out, several rooms turned out to have been completely unprepared – unmade beds, dirty towels, etc.

    Maggie and I opened our door and found our room to be about the same size as a phone box. It was hot, so I decided to open the window. It turned out to be a bad move, as when the window was opened, it allowed a cascade of bird droppings to fall down into the room. It did not look like the window had been open for some time.

    What about the rest of the room ? Well the AC did not work, the pillows were the same size as hot water bottles, the bathroom was minute, you had to step out into the corridor to turn around and the towels were the size of place mats. Apart from that, it was pretty satisfactory. I was certainly glad that we would only be enduring one night there.
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  • The Queen Arrives

    28 augusti 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    In every multi-day cycling event, there is one day that is known as the "Queen Stage". Contrary to popular belief, it is NOT the day for all riders to demonstrate their feminine sides. The Queen stage is the longest stage of the ride, and that is what today was.

    Anyone who chose to ride the full distance of nearly 90 km, would have no time to actually see anything other than their own handlebars and the backside of the rider in front. A much smarter option would be to ride the best part of the route, and then rely on the efficiency of the French Railway system to carry us the rest of the way to Charleville Mezieres.

    As our group gladly emerged from the gloom of the Budget Ibis Hotel, and into the bright sunlight, I asked whether there were any who would be happy to defy common sense and attempt to cycle all the way to Charleville. To my shock and horror, there were 6 (probably senile) riders who formed a group of obsessed thrill seekers, while the more intelligent 12 riders expressed their desire to enjoy the day instead.

    And which way did I go ? I am sure you already know the answer to that one. In my mind, 45 km on a red raw backside is enough agony to constitute penance for even the greatest of sins. And so we headed off.

    Soon we were out of Givet and riding the absolutely delightful Voie Verte Cycle Trail alongside the Meuse. This rewarded us with probably the best scenery we have experienced so far on this ride. As we are heading upstream, the river is getting noticeably narrower and more picturesque. In places the river was bordered by almost vertical rocky cliffs, adding even more spectacle to the ride.

    After about 20 km we found ourselves opposite the tiny village of Vireux- Molhian. We were ready for a coffee stop, so we rode across the bridge to a small cafe. The coffee was bad, but that is typical of the coffee in most parts of Europe.

    The remainder of the ride gave us some of the best cycling I have ever experienced anywhere in the world. Although the Voie Verte is not just for bikes, we hardly saw another vehicle as we pedaled away happily. Our aim was to stop at the town of Riven, about 45 km from Givet, and load the bikes onto a train for the rest of the way to Charleville Mezieres.

    The plan was quite sound, apart from the fact that the ticket machine vending machine was harder to decipher than the Rosetta Stone, and we also faced the challenge of getting 12 ultra heavy bikes to the opposite platform. That involved jamming each bike into a tiny lift to descend to the lower level, and then repeating the process at a second lift to get the bike on the right side of the tracks.

    That would not have been such a problem if we had more than 10 minutes to complete the process. As it was, it turned out to be a nerve wracking exercise, as some chose to throw their bikes down the staircase instead of using the lift.

    We just made it as the train rolled into the station. We then proceeded to cram all our bikes into the train, completely blocking the entrance in the process. The conductor proved to be a patient man. After uttering a few "Sacre Bleus", he seemed to take pity on a group of such elderly riders who had made such a long journey to ride in his country.

    About 30 minutes later we were unloading the bikes in Charleville Mezieres. This large and very famous city is our pit stop for this leg of the ride. This is where we can enjoy our first rest day. These special (non cycling) days are the undoubted highlight of these rides, and gives all our riders a chance to rest, catch up on laundry and do a little bit of sightseeing.
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  • Rest Day in Charleville Mezieres

    29 augusti 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Our home for the past two nights has been the Kyriad City Centre in Charleville Mezieres. This famous city was the first pit stop on this leg of the ride. I have learned just how popular these so called rest days are on every ride, although precious little resting actually takes place. In fact most of our participants would probably say that they expend more energy exploring foreign cities, than they do when riding from place to place on their bikes.

    Having two nights at the Kyriad also gave me a chance to assess the quality of the accommodation in more detail. I have a simple set of yardsticks with which to judge any hotel, and here are some of them:
    1. Is there an ample supply of hot water ?
    2. Is the room big enough to open my luggage and move about freely ?
    3. Does the toilet flush properly ?
    4. Can the toilet roll be reached easily when you are sitting on the toilet ?
    5. Are there any shelf spaces or hooks in the bathroom ?
    6. Is the lighting adequate or do you need to wear a head torch ?
    7. Does it have a reasonable outlook from the window ?
    8. Does the AC work properly ?
    9. Is it quiet at night ?
    10. Does the bed come with proper pillows and clean, taut sheets ?
    11. Are there a sufficient number of power points
    12. (Very important) Does it have fast and secure Internet services ?
    13. Is the breakfast up to a good standard ?
    14. Does it have a functioning lift ?

    If you can answer a YES to the above questions, I would say that the hotel scores a pass mark in my book. While the Budget Ibis at Givet scored a NO to almost all of the above points, I am pleased to say that the Kyriad was a much better hotel. Not perfect, but quite acceptable.

    After breakfast, our first task was to find a Laundromat to catch up on the ever increasing mountain of laundry. David informed us that he had found the ideal place, but his instructions were so abysmal, that it took us about an hour to walk the short distance from our hotel. He even got the name of the place incorrect.

    When we eventually found the place, it was already full of fellow Ghostriders, all watching the accumulated filth being swished out of their clothing. I had to admit that the Laundromat was really a high class setup. Not only were the washing machines impressive, but they even dispensed their own washing detergent.

    About 45 minutes later we were heading back to the hotel with a bag full of clean and (almost) dry clothing. We then decided to catch a taxi to what we thought was the old city, but was actually the impressive Hotel de Ville.

    This city was the site of intense fighting during WW2, and the scars of battle can still be seen everywhere on the buildings. Some bullet damage has been repaired, but others are remain almost 80 years after the war ended.

    The Ardennes Region was the region where the famous Battle of the Bulge took place. This was the last major German offensive, and it quickly faltered when fine weather allowed the allied air force to batter the German divisions. As we walked the streets of the city, we could not help but feel the pain and suffering that had taken place here. You could almost feel the awful memories permeating the buildings and streets.

    Tomorrow, we resume our ride as we continue our way to Bouillon.
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  • Hotel de la Poste, Bouillon

    30 augusti 2023, Belgien ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    The ride out of Charleville - Mezieres was somewhat tedious and circuitous, and when we finally exited the city and rejoined the familiar Meuse River, we could finally relax a little. We knew that we would soon be leaving the Meuse and gradually turning to the East. Ahead lay the challenge of crossing the Ardennes and reaching the easier sanctuary of the Venbahn Rail Trail.

    The ride was not a long one, but in cycling terms, was rather "lumpy". After climbing steadily for most of the day, the final couple of km into Bouillon was a steep, and potentially perilous, descent. Bouillon is situated in an idyllic location in a river valley, surrounded by steep mountains on both sides. It was probably the prettiest town we had seen thus far.

    Although the location was delightful, we could not help but share a feeling of impending dread. Tomorrow was going to be by far the toughest day of the entire ride. The original route involved three steep and prolonged climbs, with a total elevation gain of over 1200 metres. Before leaving Australia, Maggie and I had spent hours with maps and cycling apps, looking for a more acceptable route.

    After a lot of work we managed to find what looked like a better option, but it was still going to include nearly 1000 metres of climb. We really had no idea how it would work in practice. I guess we would soon find out. In the meantime, we had a lovely little town to explore.

    At least the going was easy for the first 25 km, as we meandered along the banks of the river and past numerous small locks. Our first stop was at the small village of Donchery. This place was made famous as the location where Napoleon surrendered to the Prussian army in 1870.

    We made our own surrender, but it was to hunger, not the Prussians. Donchery has a lovely little Patisserie, across the road from a cafe - the ideal double hit. We loaded ourselves with little boxed cakes and walked across to the cafe for coffee. It is worth noting that we never seem to find the obvious solution of a shop selling both coffee and cakes. It just has not been thought of yet, but when someone finally catches on to this idea, I am sure they will make a fortune.

    A short distance further along we reached Sedan, our chosen lunch spot for the day. A convenient cafe offered a Salade du Chef as the Plat du Jour (plate of the day), and it proved to be generous and delicious.

    After lunch we rode on to the impressive fort of Sedan, where we met up with the second group of riders. They had just completed a tour of the fort, and were just emerging. After asking our group whether anyone was interested in stopping, the answer was a resounding no. This decision may have been influenced by the fact that the weather looked like it was about to worsen, and we still had a couple of serious climbs to complete.

    Because we had been mostly following the Meuse, our riding days have been generally pretty flat. That was about to change. Just past Sedan we left the Meuse and immediately began climbing. Riders discovered new gears that they had hitherto not needed until now. We knew this was just a foretaste of what would lie ahead tomorrow, when the real challenge would come.

    We chugged our way up the first climb, and then soon dropped back down again. This is always a bad sign, because you know that you will soon have to regain it again further down the route. And that is what we did. The second climb was longer and steeper, taking us to the outskirts of Bouillon.

    The road then crested a rise, before dropping dramatically to a precipitous descent into the town. This situation can be a likely place for accidents to happen, but fortunately all our riders safely made it to the Hotel De La Poste - our magnificent home for the evening.

    The hotel was spectacularly situated, alongside the Semois River. Across the river, the small town is overshadowed by the huge Bouillon Castle. It really is a fairytale setting.

    The hotel was filled to overflowing with a huge collection of historical artifacts and pieces of furniture. As for character, it had it in spades.
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  • A Very Tough Day in the Saddles

    31 augusti 2023, Belgien ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    We awoke to a lovely clear morning, and the spectacular sight of a thin ribbon of cloud snaking its way along the river valley. Everyone has adored their time in Bouillon, and the Hotel de la Poste was absolutely delightful. Its combination of rich history and eclectic decorations quickly made it a group favourite.

    I had already warned everyone that today's ride would be a challenge (aka a real shocker). It would have been even worse if we had chosen to follow the original suggested route over the Ardennes Plateau. Back in Australia, Maggie and I had deliberated over maps, elevation profiles and Google Street View Previews for hours, in an attempt to devise a more intelligent route. But you know what they say about the "best laid plans of mice and men".

    There was no getting around the geographical fact that Bouillon sits at the bottom of the river valley, and the only way out is UP. In fact it is brutally up. The road out of town was narrow, and at a gradient of over 10%. We also had to share it with cars and trucks. It was certainly NOT EASY.

    Our riders gradually left the city in a long line. I started near the rear, only to be cruelly blocked by a car and trailer, after only about 200 metres. I had no alternative other than to get off. The trouble with dismounting on such a climb is that, not only do you lose all your forward momentum, but it is almost impossible to ever remount again.

    And so I walked the next 250 metres to a small open space, where the rest of the riders were gathering (an alternative way of describing various medical emergencies caused by the extreme exertion). I also experienced my own alarming emergency when I tried to take a picture and discovered that my GoPro camera was not working. In spite of all my efforts, it just would not turn on. That meant there would be no photographic record of our day's efforts. As it later transpired, that would be the least of our problems.

    The brutal climb continued unabated for around 2 km, before it slowly started to moderate. Many were reduced to walking, coughing, gasping and complaining about what I had done to them. It was already evident that it was going to be a very long day.

    The Ardennnes Plateau is the highest part of Belgium, and we would be doing most of the ride between 400 and 500 m above sea level. Of course, it would have been easier if we had just been cycling on a flat plateau, but we were riding a veritable roller coaster of ups and downs. Each little village seemed to be at the bottom of a steep descent, resulting in a steep climb on the other side. This type of riding really takes its toll.

    After about an hour of riding, we had covered about 8 km of distance. I kept trying to reassure the peloton by telling them (aka lying) that the "worst was over". Actually it wasn't. The pain went on for most of the day.

    And so we rode up, and we rode down. We rode up some more. We rode through farmlands and through beautiful little townships (none of which had even a tiny cafe). We climbed over a succession of peaks, enjoying new vistas as we crested each one. The photographs would have been wonderful, if my camera had been working, but you will just have to take my word for it.

    Although the riding was tough, at least the weather was kind to us. For most of the day we had fine, cool and partly sunny conditions, that were just about perfect for riding.

    After riding for what seemed hours (probably because it was), we finally stumbled (staggered) into a little village that actually had a shop that was open. What a miracle. I went in and explained to the young assistant that we all needed coffee. She replied that she had a coffee machine. A miracle of the Ardennes !

    Nineteen riders tramped into the shop, waiting for their caffeine fixes. The girl turned on the machine, fiddled for a while, and then announced that it was not working. Could you believe that ? The only coffee machine we would see all day, and it was busted.

    We sat outside and pondered our misfortune, while the girl brought out some red hot, peppered sausage for us to singe our tongues on. Just the sort of thing that we really did not need when we were already parched and dry.

    After leaving the village, we soon found ourselves climbing through a lovely shady forest. I remembered this from my time spent on Google Street View, and it was an amazing feeling to now find that we were actually here in reality.

    That was when things took a turn for the far worse. I received a call from Mary, telling me that her bike was refusing to start. It was stubbornly displaying the dreaded E10 message of doom that is common to all Shimano based ebikes. No amount of turning off and on, removing batteries, etc made any difference. This was the last thing we needed when we were in about as remote a location as we could possibly be.

    About an hour was spent fiddling and discussing with Erik what to do, but it was obvious that we would have to improvise a solution. David rode back to donate his bike to Mary, and then battle away with the unpowered bike. At least it got us moving again, but it was less than ideal. Mary's battery somehow ended up in my pannier, adding further to my weight.

    We knew that, if we could only reach Libramont, we would be able to ride the remainder of the ride on the rail trail, and that would mean no more significant hills. I was also hoping that we would be able to get some lunch there.

    Well, we did finally reach Libramont, but because we were so late, the bakery had run out of bread and the cafes were all closed for the afternoon. As if things couldn't get any worse, I discovered that my key was so bent, that I could not remove it from my bike. This was obviously caused by an earlier mishap that I forgot to mention.

    Sometime earlier in the ride, I had tried to complete a tight turn and fell from my bike. To complicate matters more, it happened just as a large SUV was reversing from its driveway. As I was lying on the road, entangled in my bike, a set of large reversing lights came closer and closer. My ride (and most probably my life) almost finished right there. Fortunately some of the others warned the driver to stop, and catastrophe was narrowly averted.

    Since I could not remove the key, I could not lock the bike. I had no other choice than to keep riding. A glance told me that I had around 26 km to ride, and about 24% battery remaining. This was going to be interesting.

    The final section of the day's ride was along an old disused railway line (Ravel). The surface was rocky and uneven, meaning that it required significant effort just to keep moving. And it went on and on (and on). Our destination of Bastogne never seemed to get any closer.

    Somewhere, further along, we caught up with another group of Ghostriders, and our peloton grew to around 10 or so. It was getting dark. My battery was starting to flash red. My energy was failing, and so was my backside.

    The battery finally failed on the outskirts of Bastogne, but by that time, I was close enough to the end that it did not really matter. By the time I stopped at the Hotel Leo Station, the trip meter indicated that I had ridden over 70 km. It had been a hard day, but it was a wonderful feeling to have finally finished.

    It was at that point that we had a welcome surprise. The hotel had a welcoming glass of champagne waiting for us. I think we all thoroughly deserved every drop of it.
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  • On the Roof of Belgium

    1 september 2023, Belgien ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    At an elevation of over 500 metres above sea level, Bastogne is apparently the highest city in Belgium. Of course, we all know just how high Bastogne is, because yesterday we cycled every one of those 500 vertical metres, most of them several times over.

    Today is our second rest day for this ride, and it is just as well, for I don't think that many of our riders would have been able to face another hard day. The timing also turned out to be perfect for two other reasons. This morning we awoke to drizzling rain, that has persisted for most of the day. If that rain had arrived 24 hours sooner, I am sure that it would have been the straw that broke the proverbial peloton's back.

    The second reason the timing of the rest day was perfect was that it gave an opportunity for some of our ailing bikes to be replaced. Today a young man from the Cycle Centre drove all the way from Maastricht with five replacement bikes. Hopefully all our riders will now be mobile and happy when we start riding again tomorrow. I thought it was quite amazing service.

    Bastogne had a terrible time in WW2, being right in the action during the infamous Battle of the Bulge in 1944. During the German offensive the city was actually surrounded by the German forces and bombed mercilessly. It was not until fine weather allowed the allied air forces to regain control of the air that the German blockade was defeated. After this defeat, the Germans never managed to put together a significant offensive action. It was the beginning of the end for Hitler and his Nazis.

    The modern city of Bastogne still honours their liberation by the US forces, and there are several war museums packed with artifacts and documents from that period. Even after 80 years, you get the feel that some of the dark memories still remain.

    So how did I spend my free day in Bastogne ? The first significant event was the obligatory visit to the nearby laundromat to try to catch up on the backlog of laundry. This was followed by a baguette and cake for lunch. The shop even sold something that (almost) looked and tasted like real coffee. Of course I could have been delusional.

    In the afternoon I met the man from the Cycle Centre and helped with the changeover of the bikes. He also attempted to straighten my bent key, which was starting to look like a prop left over from of Yuri Geller's paranormal shows.

    Then it was a visit to the nearby 101st Airborne Museum, where they had an extensive display of battle artifacts. They also had a simulated bomb shelter that helped to realistically reproduce what it would have been like to endure a bombing campaign. It was actually a very sobering experience.

    Tomorrow we resume our riding as we make our way to Sank Vith.
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  • Bastogne to Sankt Vith

    2 september 2023, Belgien ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    Any day that starts with a blue sky and fine, cool weather is a promising sign for a group of cyclists. Knowing that our ride today would be easier than the previous day, I decided to firmly put my foot in my mouth and announce that "today will be a good day". And that was true for about the next 5 minutes until the first disaster struck.

    As we were assembling near the garage, getting ready to unload our bikes, someone that I will call Pascale (mainly because that is her name after all), broke the garage door. For some obscure reason she decided to press the emergency stop button, right when the door was neither up or down. The result was pretty predictable - the door got firmly stuck half way.

    What followed over the next 20 minutes was quite amusing, as a range of Ghostriders (all men) thought they could solve the problem by just randomly pressing any buttons they could find. Of course none of them had any effect. The door was still stuck. Members of staff came with tools and screwdrivers. The lock was dismantled. The door was still stuck. Maybe the only ones who can actually unstick the door is the local fire brigade ?

    Faced with this Turvey caused catastrophe, we had no alternative other than to get the bikes out through the 40 cm gap. I had never seen the spectacle of cyclists doing the limbo with their ebikes, but that is what we all saw today.

    Eventually all the bikes were out in the sunshine, and only a moderate amount of additional damage caused to the door in the process. It was time to get going.

    Today we split into two groups. The first was led by Carol (assisted by Pascale) and the second was led by Allan (assisted by myself). Just as we were about to start, David made the unfortunate discovery that his bike would not turn on. Thirty minutes of battery swapping, bike kicking, button pushing and oath uttering got us exactly nowhere. The bike was well and truly dead.

    A call to Erik resulted in a promise that a replacement bike would be sent - all the way from Maastricht. Since it was going to take a long time, all the remaining riders climbed on their bikes and left David forlornly standing in the alleyway, next to the broken door and several garbage bins.

    Of course, the ladies had long since exhausted their patience and left at least an hour earlier. Even pelotonic unity has its limits.

    Apart from the troublesome start, we were soon riding along some of the very best paths we had experienced so far. With its smooth surface and shady canopy of trees overhead, this really was close to cycling heaven.

    We had previously stocked up with lovely baguette sandwiches before leaving Bastogne, and we stopped to enjoy these at about the halfway point through the ride. At around 550 m above sea level, it was also the highest point of the day's ride.

    What followed was an elevation drop of around 200 m, over a distance of about 10 km. Needless to say the riding was easy and gentle.

    The 68 km ride finished with a final gentle climb to Sankt Vith and our lovely hotel for the night. The Hotel Steineweiher was set at the end of a long winding driveway, and was surrounded by acres of manicured lawns and lakes. It was the perfect location to enjoy an afternoon drink in the gardens.

    The ladies group eventually arrived about 90 minutes later, still laughing about all the adventures they had shared during the day. They had also somehow managed to ride an additional 7 km, which probably explained why they were so tired at the end.

    And as for David ? We had almost forgotten about him. Apparently his replacement bike did arrive around noon. He jumped on it and started pedaling like a lunatic (in other words, the way he always rides). Sometime during the afternoon, he flew past the ladies peloton at warp speed, and disappeared out of sight. I don't think he even saw them. When he arrived at Sankt Vith, he announced that he was "very happy" with the new bike.

    Another eventful day.
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  • A Murderous Climb to Rohren

    3 september 2023, Tyskland ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Today was the time for us to experience the Vennbahn, the long distance bike path that follows the route of the trainline of the same name. This world famous bike path will be the theme of our ride for the next three days. I had also announced to the group that, after our wicked climb out of Bouillon, all the hard work is now behind us. "It will be all downhill from now", I added. How wrong I was.

    It was only when I was looking at the ride details that I discovered that the elevation profile had a little anomaly that I hadn't noticed before. While it was true that most of the second part of the elevation graph was a steady downhill, there was a wicked kick at the end. It looked like the graph turned vertical. Surely it was probably just a glitch in the software. No road could be that steep. To our horror, we later discovered that it not a mistake. It really was a shocker.

    At least the first part of the ride was delightful. We discovered that the Vennbahn blessed us with tremendous riding. The combination of gentle gradients and smooth sealed surface was delightful. No wonder this part of the ride is so popular.

    It was about this time that I was reminded of a discovery that we had made on our last ride in Belgium, back in 2016. It seems that every Belgian rider thinks they are a reincarnation of Eddy Merckx. Eddy was the legendary Belgian rider that won the Tour de France five times, along with just about every other classic bike race. One year on the Tour he even won the yellow, green and polka dot jerseys. How greedy is that ?

    The smooth surface of the Vennbahn now encourages every Belgian rider to climb on their plastic fantastic racing bikes, and then try to break the sound barrier on two wheels. It matters not a jot to them that the path is shared by a wide range of other riders, roller bladers, walkers and joggers. It is a single minded obsession that dictates that everyone else has to just clear out of their way. Obviously nothing has changed in the last 7 years. These racing maniacs are still a hazard that has to be endured.

    While enjoying the long downhill to Monschau, we were so mesmerized by the glorious riding, that we missed the recommended turnoff. When we realised our mistake, we had to ride back a short distance to find the track.

    A glance down the track was enough to deter some of our riders. It looked like a rough, rock strewn cow track (probably because that is what it was). Fortunately it only went for a few metres before leading us to a much quieter trail, meandering alongside the Rur River. It certainly was great to have some peace and quiet, and be away from the racing cyclists.

    This alternate path took us all the way to the town of Monschau, but none of us were prepared for the spectacle that greeted us on our arrival. The entire town was overun by literally thousands of tourists. They crammed every street, every little eatery, every corner of the place. It looked like the scene outside the MCG on Grand Final Day.

    The streets were so packed that we had to dismount and try to walk our way through the hordes of people. We had all looked forward to seeing this pretty town, but the dense throng had really taken away all the pleasure. No one wanted to stay there any longer than was necessary.

    Somehow we did manage to find a few empty seats at a cafe opposite the church, where we feasted on coffee and waffles. We waited for the second group to arrive, but discovered that they had been hugely delayed by a puncture. (It is worth noting that this was the only puncture that was suffered by anyone in the entire ride).

    We still had 8 km to complete before we could really relax at our hotel. The first few km were ominously downhill, before we finally crossed the river and began the brutal climb. The road immediately tilted up (and up and up). Riders clicked down to their lowest gears, and then went searching for even lower ones. The power switches were clicking to find the highest power settings. Even with TURBO, SPEED BOOST, WARP FACTOR 10 or whatever, the motor was painfully inadequate to compensate for the awful gradient. My lungs started burning, my chest started heaving, I even felt like my entrails were about to tie themselves in knots. There is no way of gilding the lilly, it was just hard work. And it went on and on.

    The climb turned out to be just as hard as the wall we had faced on the exit from Bouillon. Just when I thought that my eyes were about to go dim, the road finally relented and started to level out. The final few hundred metres to the hotel enabled me to regain a little composure. I was just glad that it was over.

    Later that afternoon I discovered that, for two of our riders, the climb had really proven too much. No, they hadn't actually died in the attempt, but they had found a place to secure their bikes and then catch a taxi to the top. Necessity is the mother of invention.
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  • Absolute Chaos Reigns

    4 september 2023, Tyskland ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    After the lung busting, leg snapping, gut wrenching climb from Monschau to Rohren the previous afternoon, I thought that all the physical challenges of the trip were well and truly behind us. It turned out that I was well and truly wrong.

    "The remaining two days will be a real doddle", I reassured the stricken faces of the broken riders. It had taken all our determination and fortitude to climb the ridiculous 16% gradient to the top of the mountain where our hotel was located. Of course, since I am of more generous proportions than the rest of the group, I could take some solace from the fact that I had probably worked 20% harder than anyone else. Sometimes gravity really can be a %$#@.

    After dinner my heart rate slowly dropped back to around 200 bpm as I staggered up the stairs and collapsed into a dreamless sleep (aka near death experience).

    This morning dawned bright and clear, just like the previous few days. Although we have experienced a few diverse challenges, the weather certainly had not been one of them.

    We loaded the bikes out of the storage shed and prepared for the dangerous ride back down the mountain (actually vertical cliff face) to Monschau. For the first few seconds everything was OK, then Greg uttered a few German oaths and announced that his bike was dead. I pretended I could not hear him. It was even harder to ignore when Paul also joined the chorus "My bike is busted too", he moaned. This was starting to sound like the three bears, all complaining about their porridge.

    Trying to sound both wise and interested, I asked "Have you tried turning it off and on again ?". Apparently they had. At this point there was both good and bad news. After a few aborted restarts, Paul's bike finally woke up and was ready to ride. Greg's bike on the other hand, was dead in the water.

    Since it was too difficult to arrange for another replacement bike, it was evident if there was going to be a solution, we would have to find it ourselves. The first step was to strip off the battery and pannier and stuff them onto another bike. Greg was then exhorted to dig deep and ride without a battery.

    Riding a 26kg ebike without power is no mean feat, but fortunately the first 3 km were all downhill. That was the easy bit. Then came the climb back alongside the Rur River to Monschau (not so easy). By the time Greg reached the town he was understandably exhausted.

    When we arrived at the town the previous day, we were staggered to find thousands of tourists of every shape, age and size, all jostling each other in the narrow streets. It was our first encounter with such an awful throng, and it took away all the attraction of the town. I had hoped that, on a Monday morning, it would be much quieter. That was true for a time, but we could soon see the crowds starting to build up.

    After a rest stop and a coffee or two, it was time to resume the ride. I had been in touch with Erik and he was trying hard to conjure a solution to our problem. We still had a significant hill to climb, before we reached the easier gradient of the Vennbahn. I looked around for a volunteer to ride Greg's bike, pointed to David and thanked him for offering to help. He did not look happy, but reluctantly climbed onboard, at the same time as looking daggers at me.

    And so we headed off, and up. Somehow, my masterpiece of planning and clever delegation worked miraculously, and we reached the familar bike path. "It will be easy now", I stated, "It is all downhill from here". Actually that was not quite true. The path continued to climb upwards for several more km, before finally peaking and starting to trend downhill. I dared to believe that we had passed the worst, however it was at about this point that a pelotonic disintegration of epic proportions took place.

    Although Michael had been appointed leader for the day, for some reason every rider seemed intent on doing what was right in their own eyes, and ignore the advice of their maps and GPS units. Within a short time, we had riders stretched far and wide all along the trail. Somewhat ironically, Greg (the only rider without a motor) raced off the front and was not seen again for the next 20 km. Others missed turns, some missed entire towns, Paul lost his wife, David seemed to disappear into a new Bermuda Triangle and rode the same section of the trail multiple times, the rest of the peloton just seemed old and confused (probably because that is what they are).

    Michael sure chose a rotten day to take on the mantle of leadership. Even with his regal imprimatur, he had no chance of controlling such a chaotic rabble.

    While all this was going on, Erik had been busy working the phones and had somehow arranged for the bike company to send a driver with a replacement bike for Greg. We know this because the bike man nearly managed to drive right through our peloton as we emerged into a small village. We recognised the name on the side of the van, and tried to get the riders in front to stop.

    What happened next was a comical chase with cyclists being followed by a bike van that was vainly trying to supply the replacement bike. After a few minutes of yelling and shouting the front riders did finally stop. But where on earth was Greg ? Nobody knew.

    I tried to explain to the driver that the broken bike was actually moving along faster than all the working bikes and was further down the trail. No wonder he looked confused. The confusion was compounded when I tried to ring Greg, only to hear his phone ringing in someone else's pannier. Oh that's right, we did lighten the bike by removing Greg's pannier !

    After another hour of even worse confusion, we somehow arrived at the town of Kornelimunster. By some miracle of mathematics, most of the peloton also arrived there at about the same time. We learned that the driver had found Greg and already swapped the bike. The age of miracles was obviously not over.

    All we were missing was David and Catriona. They were many kilometres ahead of us (or so we thought). The rest of us were hungry and found a delightful cafe for a very late lunch. The proprietor was very kind to us, but asked that "next time we came, could we please book ahead ?". I will certainly keep that in mind.

    It was then that the final surprise of the day took place. Midway through our lunches, David and Catriona staggered in through the door of the cafe. They were not miles ahead after all. They were actually behind us. I still have no idea how that happened, but it was that sort of day.

    The remaining 11 km to Aachen went by without further drama, apart from Michael nearly being run over by a speeding van when he rode over a small road crossing. In hindsight, the van probably missed him by a good 10 cm, so it wasn't that close.

    Our home for tonight is the opulent Mercure Hotel in Aachen. Sometimes we all need a little luxury. Tomorrow we finish this part of the ride, as we complete our circuit back into Maastricht.
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  • Back to Maastricht

    5 september 2023, Nederländerna ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    The final riding day of any extended overseas ride is always a mixture of exhilaration and a little sadness. While everyone is understandably glad that they are close to achieving the goal that they have come so far to do, it is a bit disappointing that the first part of our long awaited adventure is about to end.

    Although there were no mountain stages to conquer, and the final stage was only a relatively short one, today a completely new challenge would confront the peloton. With an expected top temperature of around 30C, this would easily be the hottest day we had experienced since the start of the ride.

    After checking out of the Mercure Hotel, we divided into three groups. Since the pink ladies were already having so much fun, and were proving to be masters of both navigation and laughing every km of the way, I thought it would be wise to leave that group unchanged. The two co- captains were Pascale and Maggie.

    The second group was to be led by Michael and Ken. Although it was probably the largest of the three groups, I had to admit that I was a little worried about whether they would survive the navigational challenge of finding the way out of Aachen. On several times already on this ride, Ken had somehow misread his GPS to be leading his followers in entirely the wrong direction. Early in the ride, he had even navigated himself to the wrong side of the mighty Meuse River. This time he would be assisted by Michael, complete with his Inspector Gadget headset, mobile phone, auxiliary power supply and satellite dish. Surely nothing could go wrong (and somewhat to my relief) nothing did go wrong.

    The final group of David, Greg, Mary, Yvonne and myself made up the rear. After meandering our way through the busy, peak hour streets of Aachen, we were finally out in the country again. Aachen is an ancient city that dates back to Roman times. It also played a significant role in the time of Charlemagne in the 10th century. Modern Aachen is a city of some 250,000 people and appeared to be quite prosperous. It is also a spa city, and therefore could be named as Bad Aachen. The authorities decided to overlook this naming honour, as it would mean that their city would no longer be the top of the alphabetical list of cities.

    About an hour after the start, we found a delightful little cafe to stop for morning tea. It was already getting hot, and the cold drink was most welcome. The warm cherry pie was also welcome.
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    We had decided that Gulpen would be a convenient place to stop for lunch, before the final push to Maastricht. We stopped at the first shop we saw, and purchased sandwiches to eat by the side of the busy road. While we ate, a succession of noisy trucks, buses, motorbikes and cars kept us entertained. It was only when we resumed the ride, that we discovered that there would have been much nicer locations for our lunch a little further into the town. Oh well.

    Although everyone thinks that Holland is completely flat, we discovered that is not quite true. It does have a succession of small hills, and we successfully managed to ride up and down every one of them. If we stopped in the sun, we soon discovered just how hot it had become. Fortunately, there were also some delightfully shady locations which also provided some respite. They also provided quite welcome opportunities to relieve the pressure in our ageing bladders.

    The final checkpoint was on the outskirts of Maastricht. I thought it would be apt if we could all ride the final couple of km to the hotel as a single group. And that is exactly what we did. It certainly made a colourful and impressive sight, as our line of 19 Ghostriders rolled through the outskirts of Maastricht. It really would have been worthy of a crowd of thousands to welcome our entry back into the town we had ridden out of two weeks earlier, but the crowds apparently had found something better to do.

    After arriving back at the hotel, we all shared handshakes and hugs to celebrate the achievement. It had been a challenge, but on every occasion that we had been put to the test, we had prevailed. We had summited the hills, ridden the long km, navigated through busy city streets, bounced over cobblestones, endured those early head winds, brushed against the stinging nettles, battled recalcitrant ebikes with bent keys, ridden through cobwebs, and swallowed numerous flies. We had even survived the daily challenge of conquering the breakfast buffet. We had also laughed so hard we cried, we had supported each other when it was most needed, and in the end , we had all finished together.

    Now we have a few bike free days, before we start it all again in Koblenz.
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  • Hot Times in Maastricht

    6 september 2023, Nederländerna ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Once again it is amazing how a few hours of wandering the streets can make a place quickly feel familiar. When we had first arrived in Maastricht about 2 weeks ago, we had no idea of what to expect. Now it is really starting to feel like a city I could happily spend more time in.

    The streets are clean, the shops are welcoming, there is a comfortable mixture of ancient and modern buildings and the public transport system works very well. Actually, it works extremely well, because today the ticketing system was broken. That made every trip free ! What more could anyone ask for ?

    After a somewhat late breakfast, we caught the (free) bus into the city. Maggie seemed keen to visit the cathedral that has now been made into a huge bookstore and the modern art gallery. I was quite happy to visit a cake shop and enjoy a cake, coffee and sausage roll. Well it certainly looked like a sausage roll. It even tasted something like a sausage roll. The only problem was that it was served half cold, and there was no tomato sauce. I think it also cost me the equivalent of about 12 Australian dollars. Just as well the bus trip was free.

    By midday the heat really was starting to build up. The city was baking under a cloudless sky, while Maggie and I were both quickly wilting. I lost all interest in further exploration and developed an overwhelming urge to return to the cool sanctuary of our hotel room.

    Since we now knew the layout of the city very well indeed, we walked (staggered) back to the bus depot. In the process we passed several other members of our team, also out baking in the midday heat.

    By some act of misfortune, we managed to miss the first bus to the hotel. This was probably because none of the normal bus numbers were working. Every bus seemed to have been renumbered as number 999. It was more than a little confusing.

    We did manage to solve the riddle, using our combined three words of Dutch, and by performing a charade of the old and lost travellers. It must have worked, because we did eventually find ourselves flying towards the hotel at warp speed. We really didn't care - we just wanted to get out of the heat.

    We still have one extremely important task to complete before we leave Maastricht. We have a mountain of dirty laundry, scattered throughout our room. Suspecting that, if it is going to be cleaned, it will be up to me, we will have to venture back out into the evil sunshine to seek the services of a local laundromat.

    Tomorrow morning we will be loading the group and all our luggage into a bus for the transfer to Koblenz (Germany). That is where our bike ride along the Moselle will begin. It is also where we will meet the other 8 members of the team. With our group then swollen to 27 riders, we will certainly make a splash when we begin riding. (Actually, considering we will be riding alongside a big river, perhaps "splash" is not the most appropriate description. Maybe "impact" would have been better).
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