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Camino 2023

September 2023 - May 2024
After 30+ years Lumen sent the old girls out to pasture. So what’s a girl to do…Walk the Camino de Santiago,-The Way of St James. We’re taking 3-4 weeks to walk as much of the pilgrimage we can do. Wish us luck! Read more
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  • Camino 2023
    11111
    Day 11

    Day 7- To Sansol…we crushed it!

    October 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 57 °F

    Here is what we have learned so far. Get up early, lighten your load, don’t wear wet socks, don’t lose your sunglasses. We got up early, packed up Agnus and Genevieve (our backpacks) to lighten our load, leaving yet more stuff we thought we needed. Goodbye blanket Joan bought in SJPP, who needs three chargers, a towel or more socks.

    We crushed today! So proud of ourselves. We completed 14 miles/23 km and arrived at our final destination the earliest we have ever arrived. It was hot, sweaty, dusty and we were plagued by black flies. Joan sang to me and told me stories anytime we passed an old rock wall. We arrived in Los Arcos had a beer in the main square and smiled. And Joan and I got to FaceTime Kenzie and Fabi and wish Kenzie a Happy Birthday. She has been instrumental in helping as find places to stay as we are too tired to look stuff up.

    At our Albergue in Sansol we washed our clothes, had time to update Penguins and just sit a minute. In the last week this afternoon has been the only downtime we have had. No time to journal, have reflective thoughts or contemplate our future. It’s amazing we are off to Lograno in the morning. And Camino friends invited to a Michelin star restaurant for dinner tomorrow night. Buen Camino!    Read more

  • Camino 2023
    13
    Day 12

    Day 8 - To Lograno

    October 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    Beautiful 16km hike to Logroño thru amazing verdant fields of olive trees and vineyards. We had a fantastic “pincho’s ” (tapas) in Viana. We absolutely loved Logroño and got in early enough to drop Agnus and Genevieve and explore the city. In our traditional form, we walked with no plan and explored the city, shopping , eating and drinking and ended up in the midst of a football celebration enjoying pinchos up and down the streets. We had time for a short nap, and had dinner reservations at a Michelin star restaurant called Sabores (at 9 pm) with our new Camino friends, Tanya and Bobby from CA. An amazing day all around.Read more

  • Camino 2023
    111121
    Day 13

    Day 9 - Burgos & Renaissance Fair

    October 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    Planned rest day. After completing a full week of walking over 150km, we finally had a rest day. We slept in and then decided to take a bus from Logrono to Burgos (2hrs). This saved us 4-5 days of walking mostly flat along highway. For two non public transportation people we executed flawlessly. We saw our Camino friends walking along the road while munched on pringles and sped on to Burgos with a little sadness in our heart. Burgos was alive on a beautiful Sunday afternoon.

    There was a huge renaissance fair outside of the most beautiful church we have seen so far on the Camino, the Cathedral of St Mary. The Cathedral of Saint Mary in Burgos is a masterpiece of Gothic architecture and one of the most magnificent monuments on the Camino de Santiago. Joan and I walked exploring the many exquisite chapels spanning centuries. Truly unbelievable our pics don’t do it justice.

    We ended the night with street Epanadas and a cold beer and as we went to bed around 9 pm the city was alive and just getting started for a traditional Sunday night in Spain.    Read more

  • Camino 2023
    11111
    Day 14

    Day 10- Hiking the Meseta to Hornillos

    October 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    We left Burgos while dark and walked along the river beside the cathedral and old town. The city was coming alive with bikers and pedestrians all headed to work. There was a nip in the air and it was the coldest morning so far on the trip. It made the first portion of our walk go by very quickly and before we knew it we were at a cafe having our first cup of coffee. It was a big morning to use Julie’s knife, that she bought in SJPP, and we cut up an apple and had it with some nuts we picked up on our hike around the city yesterday.

    Properly fueled we were on our way and headed for our final destination of Hornillos - 22km (13+ miles) away.

    Along our hike we encountered our THE best place for lunch we have found so far. Fried eggs, chorizo, leafy green salad and all around perfect brunch and our halfway point of 10km. Joan literally moaned as she finally had her beloved salad. Outside of the black flies, and the hot, hot unseasonably warm weather it was one of our best stops yet.

    The terrain has changed. We have entered the Meseta, the high plains desert of Northern Spain. The sun is beating upon us. It is dusty with little shade. While we don’t have extreme inclines and declines of the past week, the monotonous never ending gravel road is just as taxing on our bodies as the mountains were.

    For the first time on our journey we did not plan for the night’s accommodations. We thought, “let’s be pilgrims” and see how far we can go. We made the full stage, but the inns were full and left us with only Albergues had room. We found a private room, clean switch a bathroom - a far cry from our luxury hotels. But for tonight it was just perfect.

    After a quick shower, we went to the common area outside our Albergue where we could wash our clothes with a course bar of soap. It smelled fantastic- lemony and Joan bought two beers to help us with our chores. We literally scrubbed our clothes like peasant women by the river.

    Once our work was done we hit the town. We walked the village in search of a cocktail. We found the church, town square and saw that mass was starting in 10 min (6pm) and we attended. As our earlier church experience, it was an absolute blessing. The priest brought all pilgrims to the front of the church. We said prayers and sang songs in our languages and we were blessed with holy water. Another moving experience on our pilgrimage.

    We left church following other pilgrims and walked into a bar/restaurant which had live music and a pilgrim dinner. The bartender spoke English and called himself “Mr fix-it” and we sat down with a beer and started to unwind. We asked what was for dinner and he asked us to “trust him”. As we were waiting for dinner, the musicians began to play. And oh my goodness were we surprised. One a tenor and one a jazz musician- blew us away.

    Joanie got another salad, and Julie her chicken wings and rice. Three pilgrims joined us- two sisters from France and a young man from Germany. It was a magical evening. It truly represented the spirit of the Camino.

    Tomorrow we are off on another 20km. We have a spa booked and going bougie…Buen Camino!    Read more

  • Camino 2023
    1
    111
    Day 15

    Day 11- Jaunt to Castrojeriz 20km/12.4m

    October 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 46 °F

    After an incredible gift from the Camino last night, we were up at 6:45 am and out the door by 7:30 am to begin our trek over the ancient Meseta.

    As hot as it was yesterday afternoon, it was that cold this morning (43 degrees). We had our cold gear on for the first time. (Joan left her puffy coat in Pamplona, so out came the raincoat- with tag still on it). It was an invigorating way to begin the day.

    Only two cities / stops / rest on our 20km hike today, but both were traditional Camino medieval towns with rich histories.

    We stopped mid-day (10km in) for lunch in Hontanas, our only rest of the day. Joanie got her watermelon and it was a good stop all around. We are getting to know some of the new pilgrims on this leg.

    After Hontanas, we emerged from the dusty hot, gravel roads to the San Anton Monastery and their ancient ruins. We could have stopped and slept outdoors under the stars with no electricity, but Kenzie suggested a 5 star Spa and relaxation resort and we hoofed another 5km to Castrojeriz and our 5 -star resort.

    We could see the next city, Castrojeriz, their beautiful church and the castle ruins high up on the hill, and those last 5km were hard.

    We came in hot, dirty, dusty and with very sore feet. Luckily Mackenzie’s recommendation did not disappoint and we limped into a desert oasis. Our first stop was the cold water foot plunge and cerveza’s. We finally had a proper siesta and a wonderful dinner with local wine.

    We are now so tired, waiting on our clothes to dry 9:30 pm. Tomorrow we train to Leon (45 min) to explore the city. We are cutting two days of the desert Meseta. We end with 13+ days of consecutive walking to Santiago . We still have 309km / 192 miles from Leon to Santiago. We believe we are halfway. Buen Camino!    Read more

  • Camino 2023
    1113
    Day 15

    Day 12 - Leon

    October 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 63 °F

    The thing about Spain is there are no screens on the windows. Even the fanciest hotels sometimes don’t have air conditioning. Evidently we did not learn from our prior bug infestation, and when we returned to our room last night we were overwhelmed with flying insects. Joan jumped into action and got them all. A Pilgrim is always working.

    So no air all night, this led to a poor nights sleep for Joan, (Julie slept like a baby). Joan awoke with a hip issue and immediately began stretching. Good thing we are at a spa, as Joan was able to go to the massage chair, Turkish bath, all to help her aching joints and muscles. Julie went to an amazing breakfast.

    Our cab arrived promptly at 10 am for a quick jaunt to Palencia. One look at the big hill outside of the spa, led to our decision to take a rest day and take a quick cab and then train to Leon.

    Oh and Julie was bit by a bee/wasp on her arm and had growing red reaction around the sting. Dr Joan was a big help and our first stop in Palencia was a Pharmacia for some bug lotion and a new knee brace for Joan. We had time to see some of the interesting sights in their old town and off to the train to Leon (45 min). We walked to our hotel in old town and then to out to explore. No time to see the sights, Julie needed new Hoka shoes and Joan some rain pants. However most/all stores closed 1- 5 pm for siesta. We found a great spot for some cocktails and a rousing game of uno. We were successful finding our new gear and off to search for dinner. We both had a hankering for pasta and found a great outdoor Italian cafe with beautiful views of the Cathedral.

    Tomorrow is a national holiday in Spain as they celebrate- National Day of Spain. They celebrate Christopher Columbus sailing to the new world- October 12, 1492. All shops closed, bars and restaurants are open. We will celebrate appropriately as we will be in Leon another day.

    Buen Camino!    Read more

  • Camino 2023
    Day 17

    Day 13 - Leon last rest day.

    October 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    At 7 am Joan woke up to make her Physio appointment. Where she had to walk across desolate city streets to a place unknown in search of relief to her aching buttocks and hip. Julie slept.

    Surprisingly, Joan was able to follow her GPS and locate her Physio for a much needed stretch. The stretcher, was a 50yr old Spaniard, who made Joan a bit nervous, but all ended well and she came out of it feeling better yet 50 euros lighter.

    Upon her return to hotel, Julie and Joan planned their next day (a Pilgrims work is never done), and they set out for breakfast and to explore the city. After a lovely outdoor breakfast cafe, gazing upon the Cathedral, we decided to take a tour of the Cathedral. We spent the next two hours enjoying the history, art, and beauty of our savior Jesus Christ. It was our favorite Church of the Camino.

    After our tour, and meeting several pilgrims- and a quick tutorial on how to wear their backpacks (another story), we found our way to another MacKenzie suggestion and stopped at Topo, which we thought would be a quick refreshment. Little did we know when you ordered a beer you received two free slices of pizza. We were in heaven playing Uno, drinking beer, and gazing at the beautiful Cathedral and people watching. 3+ hours flew by.

    We decided we needed to see more of the city of Leon, and we set out for an adventure. That adventure led us to more Uno and another church.

    We needed food, we circled old town in search of food, and finally found a place we liked that was open at 7:30 pm, and we ended up in a hole in the wall that was amazing. Grilled artichoke snd Jamon, and grilled Squid plus a local wine- a perfect end to our Leon “rest day”!

    Tomorrow we hike to Astorga. We miss walking. That is the truth. Back on the Camino tomorrow.

    Buen Camino!    Read more

  • Camino 2023
    1
    Day 18

    Day 14 - First rainy hike, Astorga

    October 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    We were excited to bring out our rain gear. First time in over two weeks in Spain. We covered up our bags, bodies and kept trucking on.

    We completed 24km/15 miles and got into Astorga with enough time to visit the Gaudi Palace, Astorga cathedral and the Camino museum. Julie was serenaded by a local artist after steep climb into the city.

    In Astorga we have an apartment in town right by the square. It’s a cute place and we were pleased to see they had laundry machine and a rack to dry our clothes.

    We just finished dinner 8:45 pm and we would rather be asleep, but once again nothing is open until 8pm. We continue to be underwhelmed by the every day fare in Spain. It’s not what we were expecting. Things would be so much better if Joan would have studied a little harder in school for her three years of Spanish.

    We have past countless chocolate shops and this town seems to be famous for their chocolate. So one quick stop for chocolate, and then we are off to bed.

    We have another 20+ km/per day for the next few days as we climb back into the mountains. Weather will be cloudy, rainy and cool. Joan sure is wishing she did not leave her “puffy coat” in Pamplona.

    Buen Camino!    Read more

  • Camino 2023
    1
    1
    Day 19

    Day 15 - Nice hike to Rabanal

    October 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 48 °F

    21.8 km / 13.5 mile hike today. We slept in a bit and left Astorga around 9 am as we knew it was a flat’ish, country hike today. Weather cooperated today and we soon peeled off our cool morning clothes for shorts and t’s, as the weather was high 60s and a beautiful day for a long walk.

    As always, the last 5-10km is always the hardest and we had to grind. Sun was hot and flies were thick. We kept trucking on, and passing thru a run down, one horse town, El Ganso, we noticed a street vendor (the only person we saw in the entire town). He had some interesting jewelry. Julie ended up finding two beautiful crosses.

    As per usual, we hobbled into town- Rabanel, later than all other pilgrims. But this time, we were cheered on by earlier pilgrims already showered, clean clothes on the line and out exploring the village (their journaling/reflecting was probably already done as well).

    We found the closest bar (in this town of 50 people), and they were closing for siesta (of course they were) and they were super friendly and kind and we enjoyed our much looked forward to cerveza after our long hike.

    We checked into our Albergue, which was referrred to us from another fullly booked Albergue. This lady, Susana, has not yet opened her two rooms above her small store for customers. We believe we are one of her first customers.

    We had reserved one room with a full bed and private bath. Upon arrival, the bed was very tiny with a single pillow. We decided to ask Susana, (and yes we sang Oh Susana for the last 5km), if her other room across the hall was available, and she said it was. For the very first time in over two weeks, Joan and I now have our very own rooms.

    At 7pm we attended a pilgrims mass/Liturgy of the hours, at the Benedictine Monastery in town. Hearing the mass and prayers in multiple languages is truly a transforming and spiritual experience. It was the cap to a day of the Lords presence in our lives. We saw multiple churches, and people of God that have touched us forever.

    Our dinner next to church was one of our best. Joan continues to out drink and eat me- it’s alarming. Tomorrow we climb the mountains (that we don’t know their name). And it is a long steep, 26+km / 15+ miles up and down. Wish us luck!

    Buen Camino!    Read more

  • Camino 2023
    1511111
    Day 20

    Day 16 - We climbed up to Acebo

    October 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    We walked out of Susana’s Albergue this morning, right on time at 7:30 am, ready to roll-and we stopped 10’ from the door to admire her grape trees and pear trees, which is so typical of how our Camino has been. We stop dilly dally and look at things and we go on our way.

    Well…It didn’t take long for our 2nd stop of the day, around the corner in Rabanal, we stopped for coffee and met Karen & Rich from Rhode Island.

    They have done the Camino 9x and advised that we don’t attempt to walk over the mountain in a single day. Mackenzie also texted Joan and suggested we stop in Acebo 18km in. So emboldened with this new plan, we secured lodging in Acebo and left the coffee shop full of energy for our now very doable day.

    It was very cloudy, misty, cold and then the rain came. We quickly slipped into our rain pants and raincoats and walked, and walked, and walked. Uphill, downhill, over and over again.

    A highlight of the day was the Iron Cross at the highest point of the Camino. It is called the Cruz de Ferro. And people from all over the world bring a rock from home and carry it with them from the beginning of their journey. When you reach the cross, you lay your rock and say your prayers to the Lord for blessings and gratitude. With the foggy mist and a Peruvian flute player it was one of our most spiritual moments. Joan found an amazing spot for her rock.

    We thought we would be hiking to Acebo about 14kms in, however 20km/ 12.5m later we walked into the small town. Enjoyed our celebratory beer, found our Albergue, and attempted to dry out.

    We enjoyed a lovely Pilgrims meal with our new friends from WI, Wales, New Mexico and west of England. It was great conversation and better than usual food.

    200+km to Santiago!
    Buen Camino    Read more

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