Camino 2023

September 2023 - May 2024
After 30+ years Lumen sent the old girls out to pasture. So what’s a girl to do…Walk the Camino de Santiago,-The Way of St James. We’re taking 3-4 weeks to walk as much of the pilgrimage we can do. Wish us luck! Read more
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  • 226days
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  • 7.2kkilometers
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  • Day 31

    Day 27 - To Santiago

    October 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 57 °F

    Taxi at 9 am arrived on time. Our host told us if we waited to call for taxi in am it would have been 3-4 hours to get one. We beamed with pride because we had planned ahead.

    Elise and Elizabeth from the Netherlands and Joan and I had the taxi driver drop us off at a cafe near Camino halfway. We enjoyed coffee with the ladies and then geared up for our walk into Santiago.

    We had been receiving what’s app updates from our faster pilgrim friends and we were getting very excited seeing the pictures of the Cathedral and their arrival into Santiago.

    Our word for today is Satisfaction. It fits us. We feel no angst for it being over and proud of what we have done. We are truly satisfied with our journey.

    Rain has lessened a bit as we walked into Santiago completely soaked to the bone. We immediately took our picture in front of the Cathedral and bumped into several pilgrim friends. Some we had been with these past few days and some we had not seen in a few weeks. It was special.

    But, a Pilgrim has work to do. We had to go get our official compostela certificate at the pilgrims office. It was a pretty smooth process to register, and then we had a short interview process where we had to show our credential and our stamps along our journey confirming our start and stop points for our certificate.

    We had to have the lady roll up our certificates as our hands were still wet and we were dripping from head to toe.

    We hit Kenzie’s favorite Italian place for our celebratory beer and some very good Italian. We found our hotel, showered and short siesta.

    We attended the Cathedral mass at 7:30 pm. The church was packed and it was a beautiful mass and they celebrated the Botafumeiro, which was a treat, and you can see in video.

    We found a sushi place for dinner. Our first sushi of the trip. We decided to stay another day in Santiago as there is so much to explore and some close pilgrim friends will arrive tomorrow.

    We personally walked 516 km / 321 miles in 29 days. We have been doing the Camino, “our Way”. Meaning we walk into every small church, we take detours, pics of everything, talking with fellow pilgrims, staying in private rooms and hotels with bathrooms- our Camino! We have loved every step.

    As of this minute we are thinking of continuing on to the coast - Muxia and Finisterre and walking another 30km. We will keep you posted.

    We won’t return home until Nov 6th, but we have traversed over 790 km / 500 miles on foot, taxi, bus, train - on the Camino Frances route. We personally walked 516 km / 321 miles… on our “Camino our way” in 29 days. That is almost 12 miles a day / 19km.

    The walk into Santiago today was a meaningful and special ending to our journey. Thank you for your support and love and appreciated all of your comments.

    We still owe you pictures from days 1-2 (too tired to post, and never had time to finish the updates) over the Pyrenees mountains and a few edits to make. Thanks for following us.

    Buen Camino!
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  • Day 30

    Day 26 - Castaneda to Salceda

    October 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 57 °F

    Our Hansel and Gretl house on the highway had breakfast, so we went down around 9am. Today was a planned 18km hike so we took our time.

    At breakfast, our host brought out juice, toast and coffee. Then a plate of cold ham. Joan and I waited in anticipation for eggs that never came. We realized that was all we were getting to eat. We tried to butter the rock hard toast which was now cold. We made the most of it.

    Our host asked us to wait for her to show us the way back to the Camino trail. I bet she walked us a 1/4 mile and then told us which way to turn to get back on the trail. We both nodded and started walking and then asked each other… what did she say? Because we both are terrible listeners.

    Good thing was we just walked thru farmers fields until we saw brightly covered ponchos and we knew we were close to the Camino.

    It rained all morning. Not just a little mist but a hard constant cold downpour. Have we mentioned there were hills? It was not fun.

    Upon entering the biggest town we came across, Azura, we hit two supermarkets for prunes, and a Pharmacia for more Vicks for our tired feet.

    Back to the trail we went - still raining, and a cold breeze. We bumped into Chris from Michigan who we stopped to chat with. We were more excited to see her than she was to see us. So we said goodbye and went on our way.

    We were slow. Couldn’t get going. We stopped under many trees and the hills were hard. And this was supposed to be our short day. Every time we looked at the map it said 8km to go / 2+ hours of walking.

    We came upon a cute looking modern cafe. We popped in soaking wet, and got something to eat and drink and some new favorite pilgrims that we knew stopped in and we sat and chatted.

    The wind continued to howl, rain was sideways. We had just shared our story of where we stayed last night and how it was off th Camino trail. Renee asked where were we staying tonight? We told her and she looked it up and said, “you’re off the trail again!” We looked at each other and said let’s get a cab.

    We were so happy. We ordered Renee a wine and we celebrated. In 15 min we walked into our Albergue Salceda and the lady handed us a key and said check in later and go get a shower. We asked for two rooms and she tossed another key.

    We showered, got our laundry together - they do it for us and since it was only 4pm we went to our own rooms to relax. 30 min later joan texted she was lonely and came over to watch a hallmark movie and have snacks.

    At 6pm we went down to play uno and have our celebratory beer. We had an ok dinner with Galician garlic mashed potatoes- a first in Spain.

    We met two women from the Netherlands who had heard we had scheduled a cab to pick us up at 9 am the next morning and shorten our route to Santiago.

    They came over and asked if they could ride with us. They shared that the weather would be terrible and they were so appreciative of our hard pilgrims work to pre-plan our next day (patting ourselves on the back!)

    Today we walked 13.2 / 8.2 miles in rain. We are 30km from Santiago. The plan is to get dropped halfway and walk in the cold pouring rain into Santiago and end our pilgrimage tomorrow.

    The roads are nearly empty with this stormy weather. Yesterday only 855 pilgrims arrived in Santiago. They were averaging 2,000+ per day.

    Buen Camino!
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  • Day 29

    Day 25 - Palas de Rei to Castaneda

    October 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 50 °F

    The last three days we have had a “word of the day”. First was “savor”, yesterday was “grind”, and today we started our word of the day with “gratitude”.

    We have been reflecting on how thankful we are to have the time and means to complete this journey. And we are most thankful for Dave and Michelle, as well as all of our friends and family, for supporting us for this last month.

    We woke up refreshed and hit the trail at 8:45am. Surprisingly there were just a few pilgrims on our walk out of town. We were geared up for rain all day but the rain stayed away for the first few kilometers and we did our usual peeling off clothes as the hills emerged.

    We rolled into the first town (see video) and we were blessed with a full breakfast and a few of our favorite pilgrims wandered in.

    We started walking after breakfast and hit our Madrid high school boys, 98 of them, and we walked most of the day with them.

    We were making great time and then it started to sprinkle and then a down-poured ensued. We were soaked and quickly pulled into a cafe in Melide. We had lovely late lunch of octopus and our favorite mixed salad and mixed veggies.

    After lunch and drying out, we realized we had a lot of kilometers to get to our Casa in Castaneda. We hit the trail and once again ran into the boys, mud, hills, and consistent on and off rain.

    At 5pm we still had 4 miles to go. The only pilgrims we saw were the boys and us. The last 2 miles were some of the steepest incline we saw all day and top 5 of the whole trip. Even the boys were huffing. Note- we did this incline with muddy, slogging socks and shoes.

    Julie had it and pulled over to put on fresh shoes she bought in León and was carrying for just this occasion.

    The Casa we booked was “off” the Camino trail 1-2 km…which we thought would not be a big deal. We booked it as they did our laundry and it was out in the country away from the crowds.

    Well, little did we know there was no trail, sidewalk or road with easy access. We attempted to talk to several townspeople with no luck and said let’s hoof it. We walked in ditches, dodged cars on a busy freeway and crossed a cornfield to reach Casa Milia at 6:40pm breaking our record for latest arrival.

    We walked in drenched, sweaty, muddy, totally exhausted. We checked into our room, which had no heat and a full bed (not double twins). Showered, put our laundry in a basket for the ladies to wash and had dinner. We were quickly asleep by 10pm.

    Today we walked 26km / 16 miles

    2 days and 50km to Santiago. Rain expected all week.

    Buen Camino!
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  • Day 28

    Day 24 - Portomarin to Palas de Rei

    October 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 50 °F

    Great apartment, wonderful birthday dinner for Joan last night, good nights sleep, clean clothes, coffee in our apartment.

    We left Portomarin in high spirits. As we descended to the trail- it was multiple tour buses, and pilgrims everywhere and we immediately had a strenuous 300’ incline in rain and mud. Our day turned…

    Our legs were heavy and we were crabby. We walked for 7km to the first town and cafe and were hoping to sit and have breakfast, however that place was once again overrun with pilgrims.

    We ended up sitting on the side of the trail, in a bus like shelter, on two benches while the rain fell. We found two old power bars and a orange Joan had been carrying for weeks in her backpack.

    The rain continued, but we had to move on as we had 20+ km to go for the day. We did find a less crowded cafe further down the trail where we could get a quick bite to eat.

    That did nourish us and gave us enough energy to make it up and over the multiple hills for the next 10km. This was one of the hardest days for us on the trail. We had to grind it out, as every step in the mud was a challenge.

    The weather cleared in the afternoon, and the sun came out and with multiple rest stops, we pulled into Palas de REI after 5pm - one of our latest arrivals.

    We quickly found our apartment, set out for food and provisions. We are showered and in bed before 8pm. Our earliest on the trail.

    Tomorrow…we walk again.

    Buen Camino!
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  • Day 27

    Day 23 - Sarria to Portomarin

    October 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    On Joan’s birthday, we walked out of Sarria a few minutes before 9am. We were blown over by the number of new pilgrims greeting us before we hit the trail.

    We got a little discombobulated with the number of people and we ended up getting turned around and added 2km to our walk leaving the city.

    However a highlight is we ran into our friends from Asia, and I shared it was Joan’s birthday and everyone on the trail sang Happy Birthday to Joan. It was a special moment.

    As we got started, dodging new pilgrims taking pictures of everything, we immediately hit a large incline that completely took us by surprise. The trail was the best of the Camino. Rolling hills, beautiful countryside, paved trails, stone walls and a canopy of trees overhead.

    We did not get breakfast or coffee before we left, and we got to the first town 3km in and were brought into our new reality. Our old cafes, before Sarria, were 1-2 people. After Sarria they were overflowing, lines for food and the bathroom. Needless to say we were grumpy.

    We were starving so Joan waited in line and we shared a 2 egg omelette. And off we went and walked another 17km to get to Portomarín, our final stop of the night. That omelette was our only food of the day.

    Once we found our apartment. We had to complete our pilgrims work- shower, laundry, find food. We found a great spot for our celebratory beer, appetizers, and some fellow pilgrims joined us, and then we went next door for Joan’s Italian birthday dinner. We had an amazing meal and once again we were the last to leave the restaurant.

    Today we did 23km / 14.2 miles. Tomorrow we have another 23+ km day.

    Getting closer to Santiago.
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  • Day 26

    Day 22 - Triacastela to Sarria

    October 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 43 °F

    Got an early start and we were out the door before sunrise. We knew we had a big day and couldn’t wait to get going.

    We were ready for some rain, but fortunately we spared. We had a chance to see some of the amazing beauty in Galicia as we hiked up and out of Tricastela.

    We really enjoyed todays hike. It was remote, and something we had not seen before. Farms, very small villages and decay. The smell of manure was pungent, and at one point Joan was gagging and we couldn’t get away from the manure on the path and the smell in the air. Thankfully we had no black flies.

    We thought we would have cafes, restaurants or bars- there was only one co-op / hippie commune in one small crossroad offering coffee and fruit, and a small farm who had a bar, where we had cold sausages and cheese. (And Julie thought she ordered a chorizo empanada). We made due.

    We walked into Sarria after 21km / 13.4 miles. Sarria is significant as in order to receive a compostela (official certificate of completion), you must walk the final 100km /69 miles and collect two stamps per day in your credential. You present that in Santiago to receive your compostela.

    Everyone warned us that our last 5 days starting with Sarria would be very different than the previous 600km. Crowds, buses, tours. And we saw it the minute we walked into the town. Big groups of people. They haven’t walked a step yet. We told ourselves to be kind and loving to these newbies- but we were put off because we had enjoyed the solitude of the trail.

    We had a beautiful Casa/ apartment (Casa Marquesa), a wonderful Italian dinner, some uno and hit the sack.

    Home stretch baby!
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  • Day 25

    Day 21 - Fonfria to Triacastela

    October 20, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 46 °F

    We all agreed playing Uno we would have breakfast together at 8:30 am. The storm was expected to rage until the afternoon. After we enjoyed breakfast, Joan and I agreed we would not leave until noon. The wonderful proprietor of the Casa agreed to let us stay and wait out the storm.

    The Casa had floor to ceiling windows in the great room and you could hear the wind and rain pelt the windows. Joan and I decided to watch a Hallmark movie on TV and plan out our remaining days. Others decided to leave around 10-11.

    At 11, I decided to venture down and see who was all still around. I ran into Brazilians who were gearing up for their 3rd attempt to leave and head down the mountain. Please see video. They were so excited and texted us an hour later to tell us that the wind died down and we would be ok once we got down the mountain.

    Joan and I geared up. We realized that Haley, the 21yr old from the Netherlands was still “napping”. We were the only last night pilgrims left and new pilgrims were filtering in sopping wet. Joan yelled up the stairs for “Hayley to get her shit together as we were leaving.” She said she was coming…10 min later we yelled we were leaving and she should catch up to us.

    What were we thinking. It was the worst weather we have ever walked in on purpose. Hayley quickly caught us and once we got off the mountain, it turned into a very nice 12.6 km/7.8 mile walk.

    We had a nice apartment in Triacastela with a wood burning stove and we ran into many of our new Camino family, walking this last stretch, at the one restaurant in town. All of them were excited to play another round of uno. It was a another night filled with laughter and fun with people from all over the world.
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  • Day 24

    Day 20 - to Lineras…no Fonfria

    October 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 50 °F

    After a great nights sleep we were up and on the road 7:30 am, dark, and pouring rain. We probably made a poor choice to walk in dark and pouring rain, however we had a big day ahead of us and wanted to get a jump on it.

    It was 4K into the next town at the base of a mountain, and ducked into the first cafe and immediately tan into Camino friends from Washington state who were waiting to ride the horses up the hill.

    We warmed up and tried to dry up. The village horseman came in and informed our friends that it was too treacherous for the horses to go up the mountain. We inquired if we should walk, as many pilgrims were continuing, however using the road), he shook his head no and we jumped into a cab with the 4 Washington state people and drove up 5km.

    On the way up the single road, winding up the mountain, a pilgrim was frantically waiving poles for the taxi/van to atop. When the pilgrim took off rainhood we saw it was Pilgrim Chris from Michigan. We gave her a lift up.

    Taxi dropped us at the top of the Galician mountain in an old Celtic town called O’Cebrio. Wind was howling, we were soaked to the bone. We toured the church and and a few buildings. We even found Joan a warmer coat and I got a sweatshirt to warm up.

    We found another cafe and we had what we thought were hot chocolate, however it was melted thick chocolate like a pudding. Delicious. Joan had the local Galician soup and loved it.

    We literally saw two German ladies we have seen along the trail and they had shorts and a t shirt and only a poncho on…we felt grossly inadequate. We shared our table with two Friars walking in their long black robes. They were both priests/monks from Florida-
    Father Elias, and Father Cambell. They were soaked to the bone and on their way to the monastery.

    Joan and I had another 4km to our next stop/Hostal for the night. We geared up and hiked it through the howling wind and sideways rain.

    As we entered the one structure town, I realized we did not have a suite for the night and sure enough I booked the wrong city and we needed to pivot. We walked a little farther finding a store/counter cafe and had to pull our guidebook out and find lodging. We were in the middle of nowhere.

    Pilgrims were pouring in soaking wet and miserable. And in walks our 9x Camino pilgrims Rich, Karen and Lisa and they are in their 60’s and they were done for the day.

    We had found a new place, somehow got a cab ordered to the next town, and we invited them to share the ride with us to Fonria.

    We got dropped off at a brand spanking new, just built, most beautiful Casa Galego. We both got our own rooms across the hall, showered, and promptly did our laundry and tried to dry everything out.

    The Casa Galego had 8 rooms with a large ground floor table. A woman built and ran the entire Casa including cooking all the food. It was so unfortunate as the views would have been outstanding on top of the mountain but it was clouds and rain, fog and very high winds.

    At dinner we met our fellow pilgrims that made to this place. A 21 yr old girl from Netherlands, a man from Finland, two young guys from Brazil, a woman from CA, and a woman from Korea.

    We all ate together and soon we were all playing uno and drinking wine. Another highlight on our trip. We would probably still be playing if Joan didn’t knock over and break her wine glass, promptly ending our night with hugs all around.

    Sine we had taxied to Fonfria, wonlonly had 9km
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  • Day 23

    Day 19- to Vega de Valcarce

    October 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Left Villafranca after a wonderful hotel breakfast, one of the best we have had on the trail to date. Once again, we got a late start.

    We had planned to take the scenic route out of town, but we missed the turn. However we had a beautiful walk following the river, dodging a few cars on the road.

    It rained, sun came out, rained again…sun. All day. We walked into a village within 1km of where we had planned to stay and caught a cafe that was not on siesta, with one table outside in the sun, and we enjoined a delightful lunch. Our Camino friend Carol from UK, joined us for a snack before she went on her way.

    We walked in sunshine up to our town of Vega de Valcarce and to our lovely rooms with an adjoining balcony overlooking the river. We had time to hang our clothes, make a run for supplies and enjoyed our end of day cerveza at our hacienda at a table down by the river.

    While we were enjoying a fiesty game of uno, an older couple who lived across the river, offered us some fruit from their trees down by the river. They didn’t speak English, but motioned to us to cross the river to meet them where they shared some of their fruits. We had no idea what fruits they were, but Joan jumped right into a plum/fig looking fruit and took a bite. They were pleased.

    We were advised that a restaurant in our little town had outstanding paella. We made our way there for dinner and enjoyed a lovely dinner of paella marisco (seafood) and Sangria.

    After dinner Joan and I picked up our game of Uno and soon a French couple pulled their chairs over to join us. They spoke fluent Uno, but not much English. It was a wonderful Camino experience. We also met Julie from Taiwan. All in all a great day. We walked around 18km/11 miles.

    We are getting closer to Santiago.

    Buen Camino!
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  • Day 22

    Day 18 - To Villafranca

    October 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    We had great intentions of leaving early, however that did not happen. We made it downstairs around 8:30 and even though we told them we didn’t want breakfast, Ana our hostess, had breakfast all laid out for just us. We did not want to hurt her feelings, so we had coffee, toast and jam.

    Because we were so late we used google translate to have her order us a taxi to take us 5km up the road to the next town - Ponferadda.

    Arriving in Ponferrada, we saw their ancient castle and saw their beautiful church. And we began our walk of 24+ Km for the day.

    Highlights of our 9am-5pm hike were as follows: a chicken burrito, our first winery, village church, joan fed the feral cats, and we had more hills than we thought. We walked more road today than the previous three weeks of walking the Camino.

    Arriving in Villafranca del BIERZO, a picturesque medieval town, nestled in the mountains where old Spain has been restored for all the pilgrims to enjoy.

    We walked thru the village, and found the 1st bar on the right for our first cerveza of the day. We encounterd many pilgrims we knew from along the road, and one of our favorites, Carol from Wales, joined us for dinner. It was a wonderful night.

    Tomorrow we need to do at least 23km and trying to get an early start. Have a great day.

    Also…Julie figured out to watch Hallmark movies on YouTube and it’s brought a little bit of home to us as we unwind from the road.

    Buen Camino!
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