Spain
Arco de Santa María

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    • Day 17–18

      Day 13 and 14 Burgos

      April 24 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      We've arrived in Burgos and taking a rest day tomorrow so no walking with a pack until Friday.
      Today was supposed to be 23km but with all the city walking to our hotel it ended to be a 27km day. Oof!
      Today day 14 we played tourist. We visited the Cathedral and the Museum of Evolution and just kind of hung out. Tomorrow onwards!
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    • Day 13

      Day 9 - Burgos & Renaissance Fair

      October 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

      Planned rest day. After completing a full week of walking over 150km, we finally had a rest day. We slept in and then decided to take a bus from Logrono to Burgos (2hrs). This saved us 4-5 days of walking mostly flat along highway. For two non public transportation people we executed flawlessly. We saw our Camino friends walking along the road while munched on pringles and sped on to Burgos with a little sadness in our heart. Burgos was alive on a beautiful Sunday afternoon.

      There was a huge renaissance fair outside of the most beautiful church we have seen so far on the Camino, the Cathedral of St Mary. The Cathedral of Saint Mary in Burgos is a masterpiece of Gothic architecture and one of the most magnificent monuments on the Camino de Santiago. Joan and I walked exploring the many exquisite chapels spanning centuries. Truly unbelievable our pics don’t do it justice.

      We ended the night with street Epanadas and a cold beer and as we went to bed around 9 pm the city was alive and just getting started for a traditional Sunday night in Spain.
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    • Day 18

      Hornillos del Camino

      October 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 50 °F

      This morning we left Burgos, a big medieval city, and walked out into the rolling plain called La Meseta where we will be for several days.

      Last night and this morning we were able to get up close to the cathedral in Burgos. It was built in the 1200’s, and it is huge! Burgos has lots of pretty green spaces. At night the streets were full of people out for a good time.

      As we walked out of Burgos this morning we got into the country really fast. We saw another shepherd with his sheep. It’s really cool to watch the shepherd direct the dogs who in turn let the sheep know what’s what.

      On the way out of one of the two tiny pueblos we visited between Burgos and here (Hornillos del Camino) we saw a little chapel open so we went in to check it out. There was a tiny nun in there who put her hands on our heads and prayed for us to have a safe Camino! She even gave us these little religious medals to wear around our necks.

      It’s very isolated out here where we’ll be for the next few days. We are still in a private room but in an albergue. Tonight we’re having communal dinner with about forty people at the big tables here.
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    • Day 16

      Leaving Burgos

      October 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

      After resting and refueling in Burgos, we left refreshed and wound our way slowly out of the still dark city, leaving through a gorgeous arch by the partially lit up Cathedral. Food and coffee ended up being much more elusive at that hour than expected and we ended up walking for a good 12 or 14 kilometers before finding an open café. Ack! The walk was interesting though! We saw a processionary caterpillar! I had read warnings about them - apparently their bristles are extremely irritating to the skin and they are not to be touched. I also walked by an area just covered with snails, very odd. Along the way we passed a sign letting us know we had only 500Km to go, down from 800. Progress!Read more

    • Day 17

      Gonna have fun in the city..

      September 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌩️ 21 °C

      Ages to Burgos
      Day 14 - 24km

      Left our Albergue at 7am , definitely needed our headlights, couldn’t find breakfast in this village so we walked on to the next and had a coffee and a donut (American style). 😧😊

      It was an uneventful walk with only a small incline. We walked through similar countryside as yesterday which was nice but spent a few kms beside the motorway on the way to Burgos until we found the river route which was very relaxing.

      What kept us going was the idea of our day off walking to relax and see the sights and “having fun in the city”.

      Our first impressions was this is a city not to miss. The Cathedral is amazing, and we spent the afternoon/ night enjoying the vibrant feel of the town square. Looking forward to investigating more tomorrow.
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    • Day 11

      Tourist day in Burgos

      August 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

      I took the bus today from Logrono to Burgos. The route the bus took was along the same road that much of the Camino in this section follows. I was glad to be able to see the landscape and have a sense for this part of the trail, but I also felt content in my decision not to walk it. The trial was long and dusty and wound through fields and along the road. It looked brutal to walk in the sun and heat. I’m glad to have more time for the part of the trail that I hope to really enjoy.

      When I was researching places to stay for the trip, I decided to treat myself to a fancy hotel in Burgos, mostly for the amazing views of the Cathedral. I was able to change my reservation to still stay here, and it’s such a beautiful place to stay. (Tomorrow I start the albergue life.)

      I didn’t realize the Cathedral in Burgos is a World Heritage Site, but I can understand why. Construction of the Cathedral started in 1221 and finished in the 15th and 16 century. The inside had so many rooms and sculptures and pieces of art it was more like a museum than a church.

      Overall it’s been a really pleasant “tourist” day. Tomorrow I’ll continue on to Leon and from there I’ll rejoin the trail in Hospital de Orbigo in the foothills of the mountains in Galicia. I’m feeling good about my decisions so far, even if they’ve been challenging to make in the moment.
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    • Day 13

      Day 10 - The choices we make

      September 25, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

      “Be miserable. Or motivate yourself. Whatever has to be done, it's always your choice.” – Wayne Dyer

      Day 10 - Villafranca Montes de Oca to Burgos by bus (40km)

      I chose to be miserable today, I think.
      I chose to take the bus to Burgos rather than stretch my limits to walk up the mountain.
      I chose to not walk down the other side of that mountain due to the terrain and the chance of hurting myself.
      I chose to wimp out.
      I chose to wait 5 hours for a bus that cost me just under 3€ rather than pay 55€ for a taxi.
      Therefore, I chose a day of introspection and misery to a day of “doing” and living life to the fullest.

      I am really suffering from thoughts of my own expectations and my failure to make the most of this experience. I am making my own choices in how this journey unfolds, but finding it hard to live with and accept those choices as they are not what I had planned. I feel I am wasting precious time - waiting for buses, not starting early enough, being lazy when arriving at my daily destination rather than discovering the area, and generally letting days slip by. I want to do more. I want to BE more. I just don’t know how to get the mojo going to do that. I don’t say this for sympathy, encouragement or pity. I promised an open and honest account of my Camino, and this is it. Simple as that. It’s tough! Physically and emotionally. But that’s the point right? Maybe part of what I am learning here is to let go of those unreasonable expectations of myself. Both on and off Camino.

      Despite these negative feelings, there ARE positives too! I am overweight and underfit BUT, I have walked a total of over 125 kms in the 7 days I have walked. All bar 1 days also carrying an extra 8+ kg on my back. That’s an accomplishment. I do think of this too and am pretty damn proud of myself. I am not doing this Camino the way I anticipated, but I’m still here. I have considered hopping a flight to somewhere warm. Somewhere with a beach and sand, sun loungers and cocktails. But no. I am still here and will keep plodding along for a bit more.

      I finally got to Burgos in the afternoon and went straight to my hostel to dump my backpack. I have reserved a bed for two nights in this bustling city. Will show up on the physio’s doorstep tomorrow and hope for the best. With any luck, I will be on my way out of the city by Tuesday morning. While here though, I will get a taste for the city if I can. Today I had a great video chat with the whole family, which lifted my spirits! I showed them the exterior of and then I visited the stunning Burgos Cathedral. I have never seen a cathedral like this. It is SO extra hahaha. The altarpieces, carved walls, gothic architecture and tapestries are beyond over the top. It was truly incredible.

      Tomorrow I would like to walk up to the Castillo de Burgos and look out over the city - after I go to the physio’s office. Walk in the grand plaza and along the river. Take time to sightsee and be a visitor. Take time to re-jig my plan with more reasonable and attainable expectations. And buy some warmer clothes for heavens sake!! Where did that lovely warm sun go? Autumn has come to Spain almost overnight and I am still on summer time!
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    • Day 19

      Burgos Day 2

      September 23, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

      Today was a day of rest; you know, time off our feet. Why does my watch show 19,629 steps walked? The rest day had a busy to-do list connected to it. Go to the pharmacy for more super cream, get cash, a few odds and ends at the drug store, new shoes for Tom and then a trip to Decathlon (the second pilgrimage all pilgrims make on the Camino to get hiking supplies we neglected to bring from home). Sadly Decathlon was a 2+ mile walk out of the city center. Good thing there was a free bus stop across the street for the return trip.

      The errands did give us a great walking tour of the city. After all our chores where done we meet up with Rick, a photographer from Portland, for dinner and then off for a tour of the Burgos cathedral.

      Tomorrow it’s back on The Way for about 16 miles and then a stay at an albergue that only has 10 beds with a family style dinner in San Bol.
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    • Day 18

      Burgos - Day 1

      September 22, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 66 °F

      Started our day before the sun was up which is the new normal. It really is beautiful walking out of silent villages with a headlamp and then getting to see and hear the day awaken as you walk. I thought it would be hard to wake up and get out so early but you do have the help of 12-20 other people snoring through the night to encourage you to be up and out 😂.

      The first thing was a good climb to a wonderful vista and downhill for the balance of the walk into Burgos. At 10 miles my ankle said enough was enough and I caught the free city bus from the edge of town. I did wave to Peg as we buzzed by a few blocks later. The plan was to rest my foot but I ended up walking back from the center of town to guide Peg in likely adding another 3-4 miles to the day.

      We are in town for two nights and had a great evening meeting up with friends we haven’t seen for a couple of days, most importantly Helen and Mike who have invited us for a visit to Dublin on our way home! Tomorrow we are tourists for the day in Burgos.
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    • Day 12

      Burgos food

      August 3, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

      It took me years to get used to Australia's early dinner time, and now I really need that, as the early starts need an early bedtime.
      Here, however, an early dinner is 8pm. I did my city walk at about 5pm, to get an impression of the city centre and, at the same time, take note of good places to eat later. By later I meant 6pm or so.
      There are many restaurants serving the specialties of the region, many icecream and smoothie shops, amazing patisseries and bakeries, and a chocolate cafe. My dessert was sorted. But first I needed to find food.
      I could have been satisfied with tapas or pinchos (something small), but as of 6pm the kitchens were all closed. This is the time when people go for drinks, not food.
      Luckily, as I kept walking I came across a Mexican fast food shop that had the kitchen open all day. Not my ideal kind of food to have in Spain, but the vegetarian burrito was a good option for an early meal, and it was quite good.
      For dessert, I went to Cafe Ibañez for chocolate con churros. WOW! It was amazing!
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Arco de Santa María, Arco de Santa Maria

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