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  • Day 5

    Day 4 Jasmine on the way to Estrella

    June 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Our walk today was short one, roughly 14 kilometers. We passed by a wall that was covered in jasmine. What a treat for the senses. Today's walk started down hill form Casa Maralotx and then onto an old Roman road that started just outside of town. Along the way, there was a table with food and drinks for pilgrims with a box for donations.

    We caught up to Joanne and Paul just before entering Estella. They were continuing to the next town up. The town here is in a steep river valley , and all the sights to see are on hills, and we're done with hills today! After walking around a bit, we had dinner in town

    Dinner itself was fun. We ate with Kim, a mom and her teenage son from California, who we had run into before as well as their friend Laura, who had also stayed at Casa Maralotx. We stayed in the Capuchin Monastery in Estella, and it was clean and quiet, but there was not even a vending machine.
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  • Day 4

    Day 3 Making lemonade.

    June 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    We got off to a good start. Nicole fell in love with the cats just outside Case Baztan.
    We stopped for coffee in the next town, Maneru. Then I realized I had forgotten to leave the room key from last night. So I had to call a cab to go back to Urtega, and while waiting for the cab, the café had finished making the first tortilla of the day, and it was warm and delicious! It's probably the best tortilla of our trip! After we took the cab back to Urtega, I had the driver take us to the Eunate church at Maneru to make up for lost time.

    Most of the walk was through fields and shaded areas except around Puente De La Reina. The highlight of the day for me was stopping to see the Eunate octagon church in Maneru. No one really knows the origin of it. Some say it was the Templars who built it.

    Puent de la Reina means Queen's bridge. The bridge there was built by a Queen of Navarre in the Middle ages. It was for the pilgrims walking the Camino. Nobody remembers which queen, though.

    We mistakenly thought all the tough up hills were behind us, but the walk up to Cirauqui was tough! We stopped in the town just before to rest and have a well-deserved beer.

    Cirauqui is on top of a not so little hill itself. At one point, we saw a sign that said Casa Maralotx was 200 m further away. After waking there, I think it meant 200m vertically! Literally, it was at the top of the Camino in town. Dinner again was great. Joanne and Paul stayed at the same place, and we met a bunch of other wonderful pilgrims, both before and during the communal dinner. Dinner was vegetarian: chick pea stew and may have been the best communal meal of the trip. I made a sketch, too!
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  • Day 3

    Day 2.

    June 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Today was our first day walking with the big climb to Alto de Perdon. It was a beautiful walk out of Pamplona, with the Alto de Perdon looming before us. We were so happy when we got halfway up and saw that the trail avoided the highest and steepest part, but even so, it was quite the hike. We stopped in Zariquiegui to get some lunch (bocadillos and aquarious). After lunch, we walked to the top of Alto de Perdon and then downhill by the road. We took a shortcut from the road and ended up walking through a wheat field! Then, we had an easy walk to the town we were staying in, Urtega.

    At the albergue, Casa Baztan, we washed out clothes and met Joanne and Paul, 2 Aussies we made friends with, and ended up running into for the rest of our walk. The communal dinner was grilled pork or chicken, salad, rice fries, and a desert and wine, of course!
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  • Day 2

    Back to Pamplona

    June 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    It's been a long travel day with little sleep. To top it off, I was halfway to the airport when I realized I had left my knee brace at home. Luckily, I was able to get one in Pamplona. After our flight, we took a connector train to the main Atocha station in Madrid, and then our train to Pamplona. After checking into the hotel, I bought some hiking poles and the knee brace and and we got our first pintxos at Iruñazarra in Pamplona. We also made a visit to the cathedral to look around and get our first stamp.Read more

  • Day 5

    Time for Guadi!

    May 11, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Today was our Gaudi Tour day. We got off to a late start though because there were no taxis to be had. Apparently the local Catalan Parliament was meeting today and government business mint that all the taxis were used for the parliament members. We finally ended up taking a city bus to Park Guell and the ride was actually quite nice. Just outside the park we met Lupe who was our guide for the day.

    The park was actually a real estate venture that really never went anywhere except for a couple of buildings that Gaudi designed and the overall Park layout. And now it makes for a wonderful place to escape the city but definitely you don't escape the crowds. Gaudi loved nature and all of his design is to create a place for nature to surround us in our built environment.

    From the park within took taxis to go to the Sagrada Familia. This church was the highlight of my trip to Barcelona. I went there in 1980 and so much has changed . There was not even a roof back then. The big push to complete the church really started in the late 80s and it was also when the architects in charge of the work changed over to using concrete instead of individual Stones which is how the church was being constructed up until that time. There's a lot of stone work inside the church now but is now only Stone facing over a poured concrete structure. The overall architecture and color and light is Gaudi's. But much of the sculpture especially the newer sculpture departs from Gaudi's original intent but then again because churches like this take so long to build I expect that he thought that that would happen.

    One of the interesting things that Lupe pointed out was that when Gaudi built or rather started building the Sagrada Familia he actually built the walls of one of the transepts to their full height. And this is what I remember seeing plus some of the apse. A transept is part of the church if you think of it as a cross that is the horizontal part. And the apse is the part around the altar at the top. Most big churches are built from the ground up all around and if that was done at the Sagrada Familia the church easily could have changed from Gaud's original design intent, much like Saint Peter's did in Rome. What Gaudi really did is he forced everybody's hand by building the transept walls because the main nave had to be higher so he got his church, and thankfully the Architects of the work kept very close to his design intent for the rest of the church but they were almost forced to do so.
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  • Day 4

    On to Barcelona!

    May 10, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We had a little time before our train to Barcelona. We decided first to go back to Cafe San Gines and get breakfast.

    Then we went to see the Center of Spain. Its in a plaza and there is a marker for it. But unfortunately the plaza was under renovation and the marker was removed. But we did get to see the bear statue which was a little fun. Then it was on to the train station, Puerta de Atocha, by cab. The train was one of the new high speed trains in Spain. After we arrived in Barcelona we walked around a little bit on the Ramblas and explored some of the gothic quarter near our hotel.Read more

  • Day 3

    Palace Prado Tapas

    May 9, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Today was our guided tour of the Palace and the Prado Museum. We has a great guide named Amanda who was an Art History Major. No photos allowed for most of this tour.

    The Palace had been rebuilt after a major fire in the 18th century. It was big and impressive. The Prado is impressive and Amanda highlighted the most important paintings in the collection for us.

    After lunch atthe museum we took a bus ride and got off near the Plaza Major and had some refreshments and then some Tapas. From there it was a short walk to get some ice cream on the way back to the apartmentment.
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  • Day 2

    Day 2: Toledo!

    May 8, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Toledo day today.

    First off, I walked Katie to get her cab to take her to the airport. Our apartment is on a pedestrian street so the nearest place to get an Uber is about 2 blocks away.

    Then we took a tour to Toledo. It was a 45 minute bus ride. We had a lovely guide but could barley hear her so we took off on our own. Had a great meal first and explored the city. We saw a lovely old synagogue with moorish architecture and the cathedral and just wandered the streets.Read more

  • Day 1

    Madrid Day 1

    May 7, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Katie and I arrived at the Puerta de Atocha on time and took a taxu to the apartment to meet up with Sharon.

    A busy day in Madrid we had got chocolate and churros! So good: the chocolate was nice and thick for dipping

    And the n a flamenco show with dinner with tapas.
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  • Day 6

    Waterfalls and pintxos

    May 6, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Well our walk is done for now. We finally made it back to Pamplona. If I ever do this stretch of the Camino again I will think strongly on making Pamplona a rest day. Our stay in Zubiri was wonderful at Casa Rural Txantxorena. We went left town crossing over the"magic" bridge. And followed the trail mostly down hill to Pamplona.

    We stopped at a midieval chapel being renovated at La Abadia and talked with the head of the project. Then, we made our way thru the final towns and past a waterfall to Pamplona. The last 10k we walked was along the Arga River. Through a nice and quiet river park. Then a stranger stopped us and gave us a blessing before we crossed the river and walked up through the city walls where we got our final selo (stamp) at the cathedral. If I want to get a compostella I will need to I will need to start back up in Pamplona and get another selo there.

    We ran into our walking friends Mary, Terra, and Sharon, and taxi share friends Mandy and Maria at the main square and had dinner (pintxos not tapas) and said our goodbyes.
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