• SailingSealaVie
set – ott 2023

Mediterranean Odyssey

Un’avventura di 53 giorni di SailingSealaVie Leggi altro
  • Inizio del viaggio
    8 settembre 2023

    Farewell Fiumicino!

    8 settembre 2023, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    After four hot 🥵 days (yay new sun shades!) sorting, organizing, and shopping by bike, we left Fiumicino and set off for Isola Ponza. Light wind, clear but hazy sky, and bright, hot sun made our 65 nm, 11 hour motorsail pleasant although long. We passed Anzio where we had a night time visit by the Guardia last time👎, and San Felice Circeo where Odysseus lingered enchanted by Circe's food, drink and her other "attractions". Sheer cliffs, a Temple to the sun and massive walls can be seen while sailing by. We arrived at Ponza as the sun was setting behind the fantastic rocks and multi coloured cliffs. As it was Friday night, we were not alone in our anchorage but it was calm with distant music and laughter carried on the warm, gentle breeze.Leggi altro

  • Picturesque Ponza, Madness Miseno

    10 settembre 2023, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    After morning coffee and breakfast in the cockpit watching the fiery sunrise reflecting on the fantastic rock formations, we lifted anchor and moved into the harbour so we could row to the beach and wander the town. Of course things don't always go smoothly or easily but after an hour of sweat 🥵, Bob fixed the dinghy and off we went. The harbour traffic was something to behold with every boat size, shape, power and noise and all going in every direction on the compass! Little did we know...
    We wandered the town and had Tiellas in a café above the harbour where the Italian Mamma recited her menu and told us in her limited English that she was born in Ponza and has a sister in Sudbury! Like many, she imagined Canada/Vancouver was cold like Sudbury! We anchored back at our previous night's anchorage and had a glorious swim but with all the weekend boat traffic, decided we'd move to a quieter spot. It was a clear, starry night but spoiled at 5 a.m. when a power boat motored in, anchored and played music! At 6:45 a.m. we decided to get going to Miseno.The trip took 12 hours sailing and motoring: stopped the boat and had a brief dip in the middle of the deep, dark sea, had a visit from a pod of dolphins 🐬, and a heart stopping last hour dodging ferries and power boats, while pitching and rolling in their wakes 🌊. We thought last Spring's gauntlet at Capri was bad; this was much worse! It's hard to imagine what it's like in high season! 😱 The power boaters have no consideration of their speed, wake or proximity to others. It's frightening. I have no photos of the maelstrom as I was too busy holding on and praying!
    We arrived hungry and with frayed nerves, but a small, calm harbour, dinner and a quick chat with Nicholas, Ella and Alexa soon calmed us.
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  • Miseno past Capri to Acciaroli

    12 settembre 2023, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    We stayed 2 nights in Miseno with the day between a chore and relaxation day. After coffee in the cockpit we motored to the diesel dock then back to the harbour and rowed ashore to the grocery store. A minor mishap happened when I fell on the road (good Italian potholes) and ended up with a few bruises and road rash but it could have been worse! Spent the afternoon swimming, reading and watching the boats go by. I'm not sure why people and kids aren't at work or school? The hotels above the harbour play English music and have fireworks so we were entertained loudly 🙉🥱until after midnight. Sadly (?!), my singalong was drowned out by their live band!
    The next morning we set off after getting rid of the old beach chair attached to our anchor!
    We ran the gauntlet at Capri but it was much less stressful perhaps due to our timing, the previous time, and because we were going straight past, not along the Amalfi coast. Another long passage but the weather is lovely, the wind and waves calm. We end up motoring or motorsailing but I'm happier than when we're fighting 20+knots and waves! Not much sea life compared to the Atlantic but we saw a turtle🐢 swimming by! We stopped and turned around but couldn't see it again. It's got a long swim whichever way its going! We anchored just outside the small harbour at Acciaroli, had a swim and ended our day with a much quieter night: the stars above, the calm water below and a gentle but cooler breeze lulling us to sleep.
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  • Acciaroli

    13 settembre 2023, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    We discovered after our morning coffee in the cockpit that we were drifting out toward the reef! The wind had been light but constant and the anchor must have been slowly skipping along the bottom. We lifted and reset it after going to the dock to get the anchor unstuck from its brace and resettled it into the sand. We rowed ashore and chatted with a young man (26) at the beach cabana who asked where we were from. He recited his high-school geography to guess which city/province. He lives in this tourist town in the summer and moves to Australia for the winter to work and surf as Acciaroli's 350 residents (!)shut down in the winter. We chatted about Italy and his comments included how the southern people were much friendlier, the North was all about business, and the big power boats we've seen were all Mafia money!😮 He advised there are places we dare not go...
    Acciaroli is very small and pretty with its pedestrian only narrow streets lined with shops and porticoed restaurants with vines and flowery bushes. For such a small town, it looks well cared for and prosperous. We wandered, not far, as it's about a km in length and bought some fresh produce then rowed back to the boat. We had a swim then set off for Sapri but decided along the way to stop earlier at Baia del Buondormire, a lovely bay at the bottom of some cliffs and in front of a beach resort. A few sailboats also stayed the night: a few French, an American (first we've seen over here), a Malta boat, and a few unknowns and us = 10. We swam (water temp 28.7C), had dinner and settled for a calm and quiet night. La bella vita.
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  • Crossing the 40th parallel!

    15 settembre 2023, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    We left the lovely anchorage of Buondormire and headed to Cetraro. For the first time, there were a few layers of clouds with sunny breaks. It's still hot and the winds and waves this trip have been light to non-existent. Captain Bob has declared that we are a Volvo Penta engine test boat! Our actual sailing has been limited, with most of our travels motorsailing. Every whisper of wind helps move us along so we are putting them up, adjusting them (pull it in 5 cm, let it out 7 cm orders the Capt.!) and taking them down all day.
    We left early with coffee on the go and while the other boats were still sleeping. At 0820, Capt. announced we were crossing out of the 40th parallel into the 39th!
    Mountains and hills along the way but sort of scrubby what we could see through the haze. A sprinkling of rain had me closing all the hatches only to open them again minutes later. We anchored off Cetraro beach which was a fine holding spot but not very attractive. Trains went by frequently along the shore and the area looked a little run down.
    On Friday, from Cetraro to Vibo, the geography changed to hills with forests and what looks like orchards (olives/oranges/lemons?) Brown gray sandy beaches give way to white sand all along the coast. As we got near to Vibo, a pod of dolphins🐬 swam along. 😃 Some looked quite young as their dorsal fins were small. As we anchored off the beach, we saw 2 jellyfish🎐. They didn't stop us or the beach goers from swimming though. It was hot and the water is +30C! We are outside the marina but there is a 🇨🇦 flying as the marina owner is a Canadian. We'll drop by tomorrow on our shopping, laundry, post office trip. We're here for another night before heading into the Strait between Sicily and Italy. Supposedly winds and waves funnel through...hard to imagine right now but we'll see!
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  • Vibo

    16 settembre 2023, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    A very calm night off the beach with only 1 other power boat nearby and unmanned. It was lovely not to have to lift the dinghy or anchor and set off although we did row ashore. The streets are narrow and lined with vibrant coloured and aromatic bushes and flowers. Our first stop was at a chandlery to get a part for our broken boat hook then to the laundry service who wanted €21 for 3.5 kg of sheets and towels! No, grazie. Next was the post office to mail 5 postcards to the expense of €18 and it took 30 minutes! There were 3 clerks but only 1 dealt with stamps while the other 2 sat. The clerk, after serving a couple with multiple documents, finally waved us forward and proceeded to weigh the postcards then enter the info into the computer individually. Once each stamp was emitted out of the printer, she proceeded to attempt to fit it on the card so to not cover my writing and ended up tearing each one in half to fit! Kind of her but what inefficiency! 🤷‍♀️🤦🏻‍♀️ Do they not have picture stamps?! Next up was the self serve laundry which was fast and cheap (€9) by all comparisons. We met another lovely young man who helped us and we chatted while the laundry was washing. His English was good since he was born in Belgium; his parents are Italian and Greek. His perspective on Calabria is everyone is loud and speaks quickly but life is slow, as we learned! Stopped at a deli which was excellent and the grocery store which was disappointing. There aren't bakeries, just cafés so you are paying more. We rowed back and spent the afternoon swimming with both cleaning the hull while in the water and Bob diving under. As Nicholas said, "Gramma, you're the swabbie," and we have now named Bob the "Scrubbie". We ended up moving from the beach anchorage into the harbour as it became a bit rolly due to opposing wind and waves, albeit both were light. We were entertained into the early hours with a live band playing. Fortunately it was easy listening and not head banger or rap!Leggi altro

  • Strait of Messina

    17 settembre 2023, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    We left Vibo's wooded slopes and sandy beaches before 0700 and by 1000, we could see Sicily in the distance through the haze. As we got closer to the Strait, the wind picked up so we motorsailed. A moth/butterfly flitted about us and kept up at 6 knots! Off in the distance we could see Isola Stromboli with perhaps the oldest lighthouse in the world and a volcano in constant activity, releasing pressure daily instead of with a big bang. A number of big freighters, military and one other sailboat headed into the Strait between the mainland and Sicily. The tide current got up to 2.8 knots with us and there was a lot of chop in spots where the sea floor rises dramatically causing whirls. Lots of people on the Sicilian beach but I'd be leery of swimming with the current. We saw fish jumping and lots of jellyfish along with ferries and small boats but it was easy navigating even when the tide switched and was against us. We came into Reggio Calabria harbour choosing the small harbour at the north end with a fuel dock. Well protected by a high wall but not an attractive harbour as the trains, a highway overpass, tall apartments and the ferries make it very industrial and somewhat noisy. It was a necessary stop though for fuel and a safe stop between long passages. As it was our 40th wedding anniversary (😍🤪🤯) we decided to go out for dinner. Sadly, there were no restaurants nearby that opened before 2000 or that were more than bars or pizza takeouts. We walked the promenade and through a pedestrian shopping street, both busy with people and families out for a Sun. evening stroll. We walked back to the boat and made dinner and decided to take a raincheck. Reggio is in an earthquake zone with the last severe one in 1980. It was heavily bombed in WWII. It is also reputed to be a recruiting area for the Calabrian Ndrangheta (mafia)...be careful not to offend!Leggi altro

  • Tyrrhenian to Ionian Sea

    19 settembre 2023, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    We spent a hot frustrating day Monday in Reggio waiting for the fuel truck to deliver after a huge power boat emptied the station of 4000L! Bob has figured that the power boat uses 200L/hr. at a cost of €400/hr. A far cry from our <4L/hr.!
    The truck was supposed to deliver at 1400 and it wasn't there so I had the marina fellow call. By this time Bob was so annoyed, he got on his bike with the portable tank to find a gas station. It was just up the road so he ended up making 4 trips to fill our tank with 1 extra in reserve. Meanwhile, I had walked to the fuel dock to talk to the big catamaran waiting for fuel to ask him to not take it all! We had a nice chat. He was an Israeli skipper delivering the boat to Greece for the Israeli owner who, after chartering a boat on a holiday, decided to buy. Money obviously of no concern. By the time Bob made his last trip, the catamaran filled up and off he went waving farewell. I'm sure the fuel dock fellow was confused when we left the dock without stopping to fuel up! It was late in the afternoon so had to stay another night but decided to try anchoring where the catamaran had but it turned out to be either to shallow or too deep so we came back to the harbour and went to the other end. It was busy with ferries coming and going but surprisingly quieter and cheaper!
    We had our raincheck dinner at the restaurant on the harbour which was good and, interestingly and somewhat weird, played music from the 70s!
    We were up and gone by 0700 and by 0830 we'd crossed into the 37th parallel. 2 dolphins🐬 came alongside to welcome us. By 1130 the Capt. announced this was as far south as we were going since we were heading North & East. We rounded the toe of Italy. A few sailboats headed toward us and a large Brigantine was going our way but we passed him. At Capo Spartivento we saw 4 sailboats tipped over on the beach 😬. As the coast is all beach with no shelter, it's easy to see how a big storm 🌊could wash you ashore. We came to the closest harbour, Rocella Ionica, after almost 12 hours of motorsailing or motoring. Its understandable why there are more power boats than sail as the wind has been very light this whole trip. Ever the sailor, Bob will put sails up at even a breath of air.
    Rocella Ionica is a professional marina compared to Reggio's rinky ones, and less expensive! Go figure. A beautiful sunset and a bright crescent moon provided a lovely long day's end.
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  • North in the Ionian Sea

    21 settembre 2023, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Between Rocella Ionica and Le Castella, we actually sailed! The wind came and went but for the last 2 hours it was steady. The coastline had trees and communities along the shore with brown scrubby slopes behind except where there was a farm and orchards. Le Castella's inner harbour was a dinky place but very well protected from storms. Sadly, there was a boat on the rocks that hadn't made it in. We wandered to the castle remains, down the main street and past the restaurants and bars overlooking the sea and castle. The rest of the town seems in disrepair or unfinished. We found a small grocery store and picked up a few things.
    The next day we did some more sailing with 14 knots of wind and some waves from behind bringing us to Porto di Ciro. I was expecting it to be like Le Castella but it's much bigger and seems to be busy and thriving. The harbour had no space on their pleasure boat docks so we docked between 2 fishing trawlers. Nets and lines are stacked on the dock and men were coming and going to their boats. No one greeted us and it was siesta time for all the shops so we stayed on board until late afternoon trying to stay cool. A fellow came, took pictures of our documents and charged us €20, our cheapest marina price yet! We were hoping he was the dockmaster and not someone making a quick Euro! We found a patisserie 😋and a ship chandlery where we had fun acting out to explain what we needed. The town square was filled with groups of older men sitting around talking. It seems wherever we go, on any park bench, older men will be sitting and having a "chin wag". No women or wives around!
    The wind was still blowing although the water in the harbour was calm. After looking at the forecast and much discussion, we decided we'd leave before sunrise to cross Golfo di Taranto before the bigger winds came. My worries were not unfounded...
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  • Italy: too little or too much

    22 settembre 2023, Ionian Sea ⋅ 🌬 28 °C

    We had set the alarm for 0500 but we needn't have bothered as I was awake at 0357! The wind was calmer through the night so the plan was to be halfway across to beat the forecasted stronger winds. I was concerned we'd get part way and the wind and waves would be too strong and big. We set off with coffee on the go at 0520, before sunrise. It was a clear sky with beautiful stars above. It was dark except for lights on shore but we could start to see the sea ahead as the sky lightened with the dawn. The wind was 13knots as we came out from the harbour and there were waves on our stern quarter pushing us along as well as some swells dipping and rolling us. Sails went up but soon with 1st then 2nd reefs (sail reduction) as the wind increased. We ended up lowering the mainsail and sailing with a portion of the jib. The wind alarm kept beeping telling us the wind was at +25 knots and the waves were +2 meters. I was not happy, in fact I was in a state of extreme anxiety and tried singing, breathing and repeating a mantra compulsively while Capt. Bob remained cool as he steered and kept the boat steady in the swells. After 3 hours, the radio came on announcing, "All ships: gale warning." I was ready to press the distress button announcing a medical emergency, my heart attack! There were 2 choices: carry on for another 50 nm for 9 hours or turn around and go back 15 nm for 3 hours. We turned around and made for Porto di Ciro again. The sail back was somewhat easier as the waves were off our port bow. A bit splashy but not washing over the deck. After the first hour, my fear diminished as the wind lessened and we could see land. The sails were back up fully and we came into port 6 hours after departing. As we docked in the same spot, a fisherman came along, pointed to the sea and stated, " Problema." No kidding! It's no wonder we were the only boat out there, or so we thought. Later in the evening, to our surprise, another sailboat (bigger) came in and we helped them dock. The crew doesn't speak English so we don't know where they came from but it must have been a rough day. My antidote for stress relief was watching the crew of the fishing trawlers sort their lines and repair the nets. Heavy hard work and that's before going out to sea.
    We spent the evening looking at forecasts and alternatives: straight crossing or going up the coast around the Golfo and stopping at Taranto and Gallipoli. TBA as Sunday looks to be a calmer day before the next blow.
    My other concern at the moment is the innumerable mosquito and no-see-um bites I have that are driving me mad! I have a fan and wrap the sheet like a mummy around me yet I find new bites every morning! Thank goodness for After bite but I am now in a war using smoke coils, netting and spray and may resort to rubbing lemon juice all over!
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  • Still here...

    25 settembre 2023, Italia ⋅ 🌬 20 °C

    We've been in Porto di Ciro for 4 days now trying to jump across to St Maria di Leuca. The Ionian Sea and winds are not cooperating! On the first attempt, the winds and waves were from the South and after the gale warning, we headed back. We spent the next day exploring on our bikes. Unfortunately, the supposedly excellent antiquities museum was closed so we rode towards the Pt. Alice lighthouse but the sandy path prevented us from proceeding. (thwarted- a familiar theme!) Back at the boat, we did a few odd jobs while the wind blew 34 knots! Thank goodness we were here! Even in the harbour we felt the boat buffeting and jerking on its lines. The wind brought some clouds and a sprinkling of rain. Our 2nd voyage out began yesterday at 0610 after coffee. Fortunately, the cooking gas ran out after the coffee was made. After an hour with a North wind, the wind alarm beeping, waves increasing, and another gale warning, we turned around. Back on the dock, a fellow Canadian came by. He's been living here for 5 years and has family back in Winnipeg, but as a chef, worked in Kelowna and in other provinces. He gave us a restaurant recommendation. Bob wanted to get more diesel and once again, had to be the bicycle fuel delivery guy! Being Sunday, the gas station was closed and the streets were dead quiet but we were able to get cooking gas and the young fellow gave Bob a free lighter after chatting. The bigger grocery store was open so we picked up a few things...medicinal wine! We've adopted a number of things as "approved medical devices" - a narrow, short board as a back scratcher and lotion spreader, a cold beer bottle as a compress for swollen bites, a metal file for callus removal, and wine as a nerve relaxant! When we came back from the store, an Italian catamaran came in from a short distance up the coast. They asked to borrow our bikes to go to the grocery store and afterwards invited us for a glass of wine. It was a charter and they were only traveling a few stops on the coast. We went out for pasta at the recommended restaurant on the water. Everyone in the town was out! It seems Sunday is for church and staying home in the afternoon and then everyone comes out at night until late! Even when there is school and work the next day!
    A thunderstorm came through so the boat got a minor wash.
    After checking the forecast ad nauseum, we decided leaving around 11 today would be good as winds were supposed to drop. Bob picked up fuel early on his bike. As we came out from the harbour, we could see the swells and whitecaps beyond the Point. We got out far enough to realize the swells were too big so we turned around again and here we sit pondering...
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  • Thunder and lightning, oh my!

    26 settembre 2023, Italia ⋅ 🌩️ 22 °C

    Not going anywhere today! Wind whistled, boat bounced, lightning flashed and streaked, thunder rumbled and cracked, and rain poured! The sun came out, and around it went again, all day. Thank goodness we were in the harbour tied up!Leggi altro

  • on the move!

    28 settembre 2023, Ionian Sea ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

    After a week in Ciro amongst the fisherman and the mosquitoes, we finally left and crossed the Ionian Sea on a 12 hour voyage. The weather forecast turned out to be right with some wind and waves in the morning and lessening during the day. We picked up some groceries and pastries and set off at 1045. The wind and waves were varied all day with the occasional swell to slide off but overall, a pleasant but very long day. The reward was an unobstructed view of the sunset and the full moon rising. A clear night with the moon was so bright it was hard to see the stars! We finally arrived at St Maria di Leuca, the heel of Italy, and rafted up to an abandoned and broken boat with the help of a Swiss sailor. He said the rumour was that 3 sailboats were confiscated by police for carrying refugees. 😬🤯 It was 2300 and time for bed!Leggi altro

  • Greece! 🇬🇷

    29 settembre 2023, Grecia ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    It was a quick night after our arrival in St Maria di Leucca and we were off again! Captain Bob saw a weather window today or Tuesday and decided we should take advantage. I was not pleased as I wanted to stop, breathe and take in some sights before leaving Italy but the siren song of the Greek isles convinced me to go. It was another long day (almost 9 hours) with some wind and swells but here we are, anchored at Amnos, Othonoi. We are anchored with a French, a Swiss, and an English boat in a lovely bay and we can see Corfu. Next up, Albania then Corfu.Leggi altro

  • Awesome Albania

    30 settembre 2023, Albania ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    We arrived at Saranda, Albania harbour mid afternoon on Sat. 30th having left Othonoi, our lovely Greek refuge between Italy and Albania.
    Saranda has been a delightful surprise. We knew very little about Albania except that it's non-EU and therefore a stopping point for boats that need to get out of the EU after 18 months, like us. It is mountainous with scrubby, rocky tops. We anchored in the harbour along with Brazilian, Australian, British, South African, and French sailboats and rowed ashore to meet the agent helping us with customs. The harbourfront is beautiful with a lovely promenade, beaches, trees filled with birds chattering and chirping, restaurants and hotels, and clean! Not a speck of garbage anywhere (unlike Italy, dump your garbage anywhere, everywhere) and there are cleaners and sweepers regularly but obviously people respect their environment. We found the grocery stores, patisseries 🥐and a restaurant 😋🦑🫑🥒for dinner. The Australians popped by to say hello and we agreed to get together the next day. Music played from the pirate tour boats as people partied aboard and we went to sleep!
    Sunday felt like a holiday because we didn't have to go anywhere or rush to get somewhere - we had arrived! We swam and read and watched the beach goers and promenade walkers, heard the Muslim calls to prayer and the Catholic church bells. Capt. Bob had the audacity at one point to suggest we go for a sail around the bay 🤯🤪 - NO! We ended the lovely day on the Australian's catamaran for drinks and supper.
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  • Albanian Adventures 😬

    2 ottobre 2023, Albania ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Monday we rented a car to visit 3 must see sights but only got to one after getting lost in the mountains of Albania! I think we saw areas that most Albanians have never seen! We were on what we later discovered was an "old" road with broken pavement, gravel, no guardrails, and no one except a man and his donkey and later, one pickup and some cows on the mountainsides. Bob could only go about 10 kms./hour due to the potholes and the hairpin turns 😬. I took very few pictures because my white knuckles could not let go of the door and seat! After 90 minutes we finally connected with the main 2 lane hwy which was newly paved but still with hairpin turns and switchbacks, dogs lying in the middle and loping across, and cows and horses wandering along! The ancient Town of Gjirokaster has a castle with a history of misery. It now honours the anti- Communists tortured and killed and has become a place for festivals. The ancient Town has narrow cobblestones lanes with shops and restaurants offering traditional treasures and meals. We drove up to the castle but with no parking available, had to turn around on a narrow cobblestoned lane overlooking the new town below. He couldn't get the gear in reverse and we kept lurching to the precipice! Somehow, he finally got it and we backed up and drove down and back up to the main parking area where Bob tried to figure out how to reverse. A parking attendant took pity and shooed Bob out of the car, reversed, and showed him how to do it! 🤪We parked and wandered up to the castle and later through the ancient Town and had a late lunch of traditional foods. The restaurant had forgotten about us and when Bob asked, many apologies and they gave us each a raki, similar to Grappa. I poured it into my water bottle for later as we had to drive home through the mountains and S-bends! The correct road back was at least paved but it has to be the windiest road in the world! We missed 2 other sights as we were tired from driving and I couldn't take any more near misses! We invited the Australians over and had a lovely evening. Music, call to prayers, birds and bells were the sounds putting us to sleep.Leggi altro

  • A Greek Odyssey 🤯😢

    6 ottobre 2023, Grecia ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Nightmare is more like it! When we arrived in Corfu, it was mid afternoon and the post office was closed where we were supposed to pay for our cruising permit. We'd have to wait until the next day. Fortunately we found a phone shop to get a SIM card and I was happy to be connected again! We anchored in the bay with the old fortress lit up nearby.
    The next morning we spent +3 hours going between customs, Port police, passport control, and around again, all in different places, only to be denied entry! 🤯 The passport fellow counted our days in EU and said we were at 90 and therefore we could not enter, we'd have to go back to Albania, see if we could get a visa and we were to return to our boat and not come ashore again or we could be arrested! On our way back to the boat another Cdn. boat was anchored nearby so we stopped to chat. Mark & Lisa are from Victoria and they had some suggestions and helpful information. They offered to come by later and their company and our libations were a welcome respite from our dilemma of where to go (Albania? Montenegro? and how do we catch our flt home from Paris?!) They suggested we stay anchored and go back in 2 days with our calculations of days in EU within the last 6 months. So, we spent the next day cleaning swimming and breaking the rules by going ashore to get groceries and much needed medicinal booze! This a.m. we loaded up the bikes because we'd ended up walking 10 kms between offices the last time and decided it would be easier on bikes. We went to Passport, they sent us to Customs who wanted our Insurance document to not only state we could sail in Greece but it had to have a special number referencing Greek law. This was not asked for last time but we had Bob's computer so we went to a café and he pulled up the appropriate document and back we went. She sent us back to Passport where a different agent from the other day checked our passports and said we'd been denied and could not enter. Bob said (politely) that the other agent had miscalculated and went over dates and offered receipts and his spreadsheet as proof. The agent called the previous agent, had a long conversation and finally stamped our passports and customs document! He then advised there is an agreement between Canada and Greece that Cdns can spend 90 days in any other EU countries and when we come and stay in Greece we can have another 90 days. So why have we gone through denied entry????🤯🤔😖
    After he stamped our documents, we had to go to Port Police then back to Customs to pay more and get new customs documents stamped. Another +3 hours and another 10 kms going in circles! Talk about bureaucratic inefficiencies and hassle! It makes Albania's entry and exit a dream. I'm hoping the Greek Gods will now look favourably upon us for the last 3 weeks.
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  • Corfu highlights

    9 ottobre 2023, Grecia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Now that we are legal and are "free range", we have been exploring and wandering in Corfu town and Gouvia. Corfu town is beautiful with a lovely mixture of Venetian, French, British and Greek architecture. It's busy with cruise ships coming and going daily but, surprisingly, it doesn't feel crowded. Shops, cafés, bakeries, markets line the narrow streets, and sometimes laundry overhead, as you wind your way through the maze. The Archeological Museum houses the Gorgon Pediment from the Temple of Artemis dated 580BC and a frieze of Dionysus, God of wine, for whom I've been searching! Greek wine is double the price of Italian wine and €4 seems excessive! 🤣
    Our anchorage at Corfu was calm and we enjoyed watching boats come and go, including kids in sailing dinghies, and meeting other sailors (Canadian, U.K. Danish).
    We came to Gouvia and anchored off the Durrell house where they filmed the TV show. It's beautiful and is available to rent! Perfect for a (badminton??!!) group with our boat anchored outside!
    The largest marina on Corfu is around the corner but we are presently anchored in a beautiful bay across from it. It's calm, the sea is 29C and the surrounding shore has beautiful gardens, a variety of trees, rocks, and gorgeous homes and hotels. What's missing are family and friends on this Thanksgiving Day🦃🍁🌽🇨🇦 but I feel fortunate to be where I am and to have all of you in my life. 😘
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  • Of Gods and Men

    12 ottobre 2023, Grecia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    The Gods were listening to Capt. Bob muttering about no wind and wanting to sell the mast and sails! On Tuesday, we motored from Gouvia, past Corfu town, along the Eastern Corfu coastline to a small fishing village, Petriti, where we spent the night bouncing and swinging as the wind and waves picked up. We had a lovely evening though with a young couple; she is Canadian and he is French, and it seems we've been playing sail tag with them since Sicily!
    Wednesday morning we decided to do a hike before setting off but it was more of a walk along the coast so we didn't go far. There is a trail developed by an English woman that goes from one end of Corfu to the other and takes about 10 days with places to stop for the night. Our walk was not part of that!
    The wind got up to 13 knots so we had a lovely sail to the mainland town, Mourtos. The trip was under 4 hours and is my idea of a perfect day! Until we came to anchoring...
    Our dinghy line got caught in the propeller of the sailboat so we stopped the engine but we were drifting toward a catamaran! Bob lowered our anchor but not fast enough to prevent us from bumping the catamaran. Fortunately, the men on board were prepared with bumpers and were not concerned about the little scrape on their hull. It turns out they own 4 charter boats and said they'd seen and done worse and would just add it to their jobs list! They were so kind and understanding and suggested we could buy them a drink so when we saw them on the waterfront, we delivered a case of beer instead and had a chat.
    The anchorage was beautiful with turquoise water and different little fish swimming around. We swam and watched boats come and go, some that we've seen in other anchorages. We enjoyed a meal on the waterfront then back to the quiet and calm anchorage for the night.
    We spent this morning doing little jobs and had a swim before departing for Lakka, Paxos Is. Bob was hopeful that we'd be sailing the whole way but it was not to be. Perhaps some more mutterings to the Gods are needed! We arrived in another beautiful anchorage but a busier one with +25 boats: German, Austrian, Polish, U.K. Met a young fellow from Scotland and he and his wife live and work online aboard their boat. Same as the couple in Petriti.
    Greece, in spite of our worrisome start, has been wonderful. A few challenges: biting bugs which love me 😬😟and getting water. Not every harbour has fresh, drinkable water so we are on rations until we can fill up again. Otherwise, beautiful sea, sky, birds, landscape and people. 😍
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  • Zig, Circle and Zag

    15 ottobre 2023, Grecia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    We spent Friday morning puttering and since we weren't traveling far to Gaios further down the island, I went to the village to the lovely young woman who could do our laundry and to shop for a few things. I was alone, motoring in the dinghy, in a beautiful harbour...😍😃
    Later, Bob felt the need for exercise besides swimming to the shore so he rowed us around the point at the harbour entrance and back. Off to the village again to pick up the laundry and off we went down the coast about 5 n.m. to Gaios. The town was busy and looked quite lovely with shops, people, restaurants but there was no room to tie up or to anchor so we came out again and headed back towards Lakka. The wind and waves had picked up and we were unsure of other anchorages so we went back to Lakka, a secure harbour. Our entertainment was watching a German boat anchoring: he set out 2 bow anchors and had his wife swim to shore with a line to tie to a rock! He had started so close to an Austrian boat that they decided to move over ☹. The process took over an hour of adjustments!
    The roosters woke us up Sat. morning and we set off down the west side of Paxos. A very different landscape from the forested east side with rocky cliffs, caves and striped layers. I was hoping to stop and swim and explore at the Blue Caves but there was a bit of swell, limited sandy bottom, and rocks! so we circled around, took in the view and carried on. We passed a stone arch and went into Mongonissi Bay where we could/should have come to the previous night as it was next door to Gaios! We turned and set off for Preveza on the mainland. It's where we'll be leaving the boat for the winter and where we can explore before the expected stormy weather arrives. We are in good company with other boats we've seen in other harbours and where everyone we've met is leaving their boat for winter. We're anchored off the town and will stock up and fill up then sail to areas near by before coming back in a week. The coastline coming in has dropped and ends in a salt marsh before rising up again. Varied and beautiful Greece.
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  • Preveza

    16 ottobre 2023, Grecia ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    The name means "Passage" because it is between Epirus, Central Greece and the Ionian Islands. It is where Octavius Augustus defeated Antony & Cleopatra in the Battle of Actium in 31 BC. There are ancient monuments all around the area and we will visit them later. We spent 2 nights anchored off the town and wandered the lovely lanes festooned with gorgeous vines and flowers, swam at the beach with a mineral spring where the locals swim for good health (so I'm cured of any unknown ailments!), and had an amazing dinner with 4 other B.C.ers. Fortunately Bob kept his opinions about catamarans (condo boats he calls them) to himself since 1 couple has one! They spend a lot of time here so had a favourite restaurant where we were treated royally with ouzo, bread, spreads, olives, dinner plates, wine, dessert and liqueur for €12 each! We spent 4 hours sharing adventures, foibles, repairs and boating life.
    We had coffee the next morning with a UK couple who also spend a lot of time here and they shared their time, stories, information, funny anecdotes and kindness. We'll see them in the Spring too.
    We did some reconnaissance after taking shelter from the rain⛈ and found the tourist office, bus station, customs and Port police where Bob was admonished for not going to the Port we said we were going to upon leaving Corfu! More administrative, bureaucratic challenges. We bought pastries to make the paperwork nonsense more palatable!
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  • Levkas Is.

    17 ottobre 2023, Grecia ⋅ 🌧 21 °C

    From Preveza heading south, we sailed to the canal separating Levkas from the mainland providing a passage through the salt marshes and down the east coast of Levkas Island. The earliest canal was dug in the 7th century BC and again by Augustus in Roman times. There is a swing bridge which opens on the hour and since we were late for the 4 p.m., we had to wait. We made 3 attempts to dock but the wind kept us off until Bob leapt off and pulled, tugged and held the lines until my shorter legs could span the distance between boat and pier. It brought back memories of other frightening dockings! After the siren, both ends of the floating bridge go up and it pivots to let boats through. Single lane only so we motored through while boats heading North waited. A full catamaran cheered, "Canada!" as we motored past. Probably too much retsina! On either side were sand spits and shallow lakes. We motored past Levkas Town and as we came out of the channel both coasts rose up with forested hillsides. We anchored off a small harbour at Nikiana for the night.
    The wind picked up in the morning and we had a speedy sail a few miles down to Nydri, a busy little port. After anchoring in Tranquil Bay, just opposite the town, we took the dinghy to check in to the Port Police. They don't make it easy as it was on the street behind the harbourfront, with a small Greek sign sideways to the door which had a no entry symbol, and it was upstairs in a dark hallway! After getting our requisite stamp, we did a little dinghy tour. Tranquil Bay is a mixture of boats permanently tied to the shore, rafted boats, sunken boats and transient boats surrounded by wooded slopes of cypress and olive trees. It's quiet (except for the boat running a generator 😡 - a few of us clapped and cheered when it was shut off) but became noisier as the lightning, thunder and rain descended on our Tranquil Bay. During the deluge, Bob thought our anchor was dragging so out we went in the storm with Bob at the bow lifting the anchor and me driving. Nicholas & Ella happened to call right then and Nicholas wisely said, "Gramma, go inside!" We motored slowly through the maze of anchored boats closer to the town docks and dropped the anchor again. Bob got into the dinghy to bail for fear it would sink with the amount of rain filling it up! The storm finally moved off and it became calm and quiet. Wet but tranquil.
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  • A piece of Heaven

    19 ottobre 2023, Grecia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    The morning after the storm, we mopped up, bailed out and hung cushions to dry in the sun and breeze while we went for a bike ride! We rode to the end of the fjord along the shore and in a lane under lemon and lime boughs, bright pink bougainvillea branches and rows of potted trees and flowers. We stopped at an ancient tumuli, burial site, and of course, a bakery 😋. We packed up and as we got into the channel, we sailed past Skorpios Is., formerly owned by Onassis and now by a Russian princess. We checked out a few bays and decided on the one I'd originally chosen, Platygiali Cove. A small pebble beach, olive and cypress trees behind, hills on 3 sides so well protected, and clear water. We had the cove to ourselves, except for the Solitary Man who appears to live in a tent well hidden. Boats passing by were far enough out and we were far enough from the beach that we skinny-dipped. Memories of cottage nights 😍. The Solitary Man had his bath and sat on the beach until the sun went behind the trees. We sat listening to birds chittering, chattering and chirping and water lapping until it cooled and we went below. The sky was clear and the stars brilliant in our dark cove.
    The sun didn't hit us in the morning until 9:30 but it was bright and the birds were happily singing. A fisherman rowed in and he showed us the octopus he'd caught. Happy for him (dinner?) but sad for the octopus. I went snorkeling and saw different schools of fish. Solitary Man went off on his bike and we picked up our anchors leaving our one-time glorious cove and set off looking for our next perfect spot.
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  • Abelaki Bay, a bit of Heaven with 🎶

    19 ottobre 2023, Grecia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    As we left our heavenly anchorage, we had lunch floating on the breeze. A good wind picked up so we put out the jib and sailed along checking out the bays and watching other sailboats cruising along. We came into Abelaki Bay and anchored between 2 small docks on each side of the bay. We weren't sure about staying because there were 3 catamarans docked and playing loud music but soon realized they were guests for a small wedding and we had front row seats! The music changed to our era (Simon & Garfunkel, Clapton, Elton...) and an excellent guitarist and singer played during the ceremony and after. The ceremony was by the sea, under the olive trees with the sun shining. Magical.
    We decided to walk up over the hill (huff, puff) into the harbour town, Vathy, and poke around. The rest of the day was swimming and enjoying the music and laughter from the wedding and watching boats come into the bay doing their anchor dances (here, there, up, down, turn around) and settle for the evening. The most interesting though were the 8 charter boats reversing from half way down the bay at a good clip and backing into the dock! Reversing is one way to get where you're going! 🤪🤣
    On Friday, we were again going to go one bay over to Paradise Beach, Port Atheni, but the wind had kicked up to 18knots with waves and swell so we did a quick reconnaissance and decided Abelaki Bay was the calmer choice so back we went, almost to the same spot as the night before. Fewer boats were anchored and the catamarans with the wedding guests had left as had the 8 docked charter boats. We walked to Vathy again taking a different route to pick up the required bakery items and beer. Greek wine is expensive (by Bob's standards🤑 )and not that great compared to the good Italian wines for €2!
    Except for being bitten by bugs, we had a good dinner outside at the taverna. We're one of its last customers because the sailing/tourism season is ending this weekend and most restaurants and tourist shops shut down until April. We didn't realize how dependent these places are on the 24/7 - 7 month tourist season to pay for the next 5 months of no work. A very different lifestyle.
    After the very windy start outside the bay, the night was calm, still and quiet.
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  • Repeats:Tranquil Bay, our heavenly cove

    22 ottobre 2023, Grecia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    After a very still, warm night in Abelaki, I sat in the cockpit before the sun came up watching and listening to the world awaken. Boats left early and since there was only the French boat and us, I decided to follow the French woman's example and do yoga on the foredeck then have a skinny-dip! Bob did too after he finished his morning scrubbing on the deck. We had a great chat with the French couple after enquiring about their dinghy engine, a small electric one recharged by usb cable! They are hauling out in Preveza too so we said we'd see them there. We decided to explore another bay and anchored beside a UK couple having lunch. In our chat, we learned their son has gone to Whistler to work for the winter.
    We ended up not staying as the forecast predicted thunderstorms⛈ again and we didn't want to have a repeat of the previous time 😬 so we moved back to Tranquil Bay. As it turned out, we could have stayed as the storm never appeared. So, Sunday morning, we decided to walk to the "magnificent Nydri waterfalls" which turned out to be a trickle! The map said 3.6 kms but as we wandered past houses, olive groves, the dry river bed full of boulders, it certainly felt further. It was pretty though and eventually we came to a café where the road switched to a narrow path up the gorge to the bottom of the falls where there was a small, cold pool. Swim forsaken. Back we walked, stopped at the grocery store and Bob rowed us to the boat. Our walk ended up just over 9 kms. We had lunch and once again, thought we'd explore another anchorage for the night. Too deep; the next spot buoyed off, at which time we decided to go back to our heavenly cove. Sailed with the jib only as the wind was gusting to 17 knots and as the cove came into view, horrors! a catamaran was already there! We came in anyway and as it turned out, we weren't the last! Obviously our treasure cove had been discovered! No matter, there was room to share and everyone enjoyed the cove with quiet enthusiasm. As the French women were topless sunbathing, it seemed fitting for another skinny-dip. Another glorious night in our heavenly spot with the 1/2 moon and stars shining brightly.
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