IRELAND 2022

May 2022
We hoped to do Ireland 2021 but “they” wouldn’t let us in without isolating because of covid so this is “take 2”! Read more
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  • 1.8kkilometers
  • Day 11

    A Giant Step…..but of the Mythical kind

    May 12, 2022 in Northern Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Up early, brekky sorted and bike packed ready to start by 9.20, 10 mins early (!) unheard of! for us anyway. We don’t have an OS standard map so it was time to put the destination into Gavster the Garmin and give it its head to sort the route. It’s supposed to route via cycle friendly roads and tracks but, like all these devices, it can sometimes get adventurous, go through farm yards etc. we only decided to ignore Gavvy once on the way there and arrived on time only to see a number of coaches parked and arriving in the car park….a cruise ship was in apparently. Still, the Giant’s Causeway is a big place, the clue is in the name, and, whilst it wasn’t a spiritual moment with that number of people, it was an enjoyable walk from the visitor centre to the stones with the commentary from the headset.
    Back to the visitor centre to get the picnic out of the pannier and just as we sat down at the picnic table, we were the only ones due to the cold, wind and now rain, so we decamped into a corner of the cafe and bought 2 teas and continued with our picnic there. Good job we’d brought the picnic as there signs everywhere apologising for restricted choice and slow service due to reduced number of staff.
    We abandoned our provisional plan to go on to the Carrick Rope Bridge because we’d spent more time at the causeway and slightly influenced by the rain showers and having to cycle into wind most of the way home. So we donned waterproofs and set off.
    On the way home we saw the other end of the track we’d chosen to avoid on the way there, it didn’t look too bad so we chanced it. A bit rough but ok until we came to a 10 yard section that was flooded right across! A quick inspection, one side didn’t look as deep as the other so, ignoring the fact that puddles are only flat on top, we ploughed through and didn’t even get our feet wet, well not enough to get in our shoes.
    Once home it was kettle on for a “nice cup of tea” and a warm up, bike away and checking the route for tomorrow when we move on to another site on the “Wild Atlantic Way”.
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  • Day 12

    Drumaheglis to Binion Bay

    May 13, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    A rather grey looking day and we only had 60 ish miles to travel so had a leisurely start and did some “housework” of the van, plus coffee break before leaving at 12 on the dot, the stated departure deadline.

    A pleasant journey through some rural and forested areas plus bypass around Londonderry then onto the quiet and sometimes narrow roads of the Inishowen Peninsula.

    We followed the satnav but were perplexed when we reached the destination as all we could see was a row of static vans with a narrow strip of concrete in front of them. The jolly Irish site owner turned up in a car behind us and said this was it - follow me!! We proceeded to navigate our way down the narrow path until we came to a gravel pitch, again site own said follow me exactly (walking this time) which we did and with some nifty moves got ourselves into position.
    Very rural views of hills, farm houses, gorse etc. When a new Irish neighbour arrived we had a few electricity problems with the power tripping out but negotiated a “peace agreement” of us both sticking to only using 5 amps each.
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  • Day 13

    Ride to Doagh Village, Waterfall & Beach

    May 14, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    A lovely ride through the countryside and along a bay to Doagh Famine Village. The 12 euro per person entry fee included a cup of coffee and scone. The cafe overlooked a large sandy bay and was a great way to start our visit.

    Our tour guide, who was in his mid fifties, had lived with his parents and 4 siblings in one of the little 2 roomed cottages up until 1984. The house had no electricity or running water and they lived a very simple life which revolved around providing themselves with food either from the seashore or fields. The Inishowen peninsular was very remote, people didn’t have TVs or cars so they knew very little about the outside world. Water and wells were very important and the guide’s dad had the power of a water diviner so was in demand. When Ireland joined the EU there was a great boom in their economy as many new business came to Ireland because they could trade with Europe and around the world tariff free. Many of the derelict little old cottages can still be seen but alongside large houses with very neat gardens.

    Back to the old days, even though it was illegal, a good way to make money was to distil whiskey from potatoes and this was called poitin. Apart from the risk to the maker of being imprisoned, the drinker was at risk too, if it wasn’t distilled properly and they drunk the first batch it could make them blind. If it was made in lead pipes the drinker could be unconscious for up to 3 days. These two outcomes gave rise to the following expressions:-

    BLIND DRUNK
    AWAY WITH THE FAIRIES

    We then went into the chapel to find out about wakes, another few interesting customs, putting a box of snuff on the dead persons chest so you could see if they were really dead or just unconscious from the drink. Paying someone to wail at the wake to “wake the dead”. Once someone was buried attaching a string to their finger and to a bell above the burial place just incase they had been buried alive.

    Expressions:-
    SNUFFED IT
    if you make too much noise you are WAKING THE DEAD
    DEAD RINGER if you look like somebody who had been buried and could be them

    Next part of the tour was about the history of the potato famine, the plight of the evicted tenants, emigration, travelling folk and a set of rooms with hidden doors telling the story of the road to peace and independence in Southern Ireland. A very interesting and informative attraction.

    After a picnic lunch we cycled onto Glenevin waterfall which we accessed via a 1 km walking trail. The weather was getting warmer so we treated ourselves to an ice cream before pedalling on to look at Binion Bay, near our campsite.
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  • Day 14

    Binion Bay to Creeslough

    May 15, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    An uneventful drive except for 2 things, the narrow 1.5 mile one vehicle width, with hardly any passing places, road to the Wild Ireland Park and the lack of signs to the campsite, both of which were coped with without too much fuss.
    The Wild Ireland Park is a small place with animals from Ireland’s past, bears, wolves, lynx and wild boar plus some others you’d find wild or roadkill in the forest back home. It’s a new place still being built so hopefully will get better with time. The size of the well tarmaced car park certainly showed they were expecting lots of visitors in the future and gave plenty of space for the motorhome now.
    Arriving in Creeslough we saw the campsite below us as we passed the unmarked entrance and after a mile or so we managed to find somewhere to turn round and return to the unmanned reception, but someone turned up. In theory this was a very swish site with lots of facilities but didn’t feel like that, although the washing machine and dryer worked well.
    The best part of Creeslough has to be ice cream parlour “Scrumptious” and it certainly was !!
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  • Day 15

    Glenveagh Castle and Gardens

    May 16, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Our plan today was to cycle up and around the Rosguil Peninsular. It rained on and off during the early hours but undeterred we put on our cycling clothes. There was another burst of rain and we waited until that passed then started to get out the tandem. The heavens opened again and we decided it wasn’t to be, so we had coffee and changed our plans and set off to visit Glenveagh in the motorhome. We had lunch there on arrival then went to purchase our ticket for the shuttle bus and guided tour of the castle only to learn that the castle is not open as undergoing renovation!!! However the very helpful member of staff said the bus was running and the gardens were open and we could watch a film about the property, which we did. The castle was built by John Adair who visited the area and thought it perfect for a summer home when he and his wife weren’t in America. He became very unpopular when he forcibly evicted tenant farmers off of his land in the difficult winter of 1861. He died shortly after building the castle and his wife Adelina continued to live there and was much more amenable to the local people as well as a renowned hostess for the rich and famous. Belgium refugees lived at the castle during WW1, then the IRA briefly occupied it in 1922. Kingsley Porter, a Harvard professor owned it but mysteriously disappeared. Henry Mcllhenny then became the owner and finally it passed to Irish Government in 1975. All the owners over the years developed and improved the gardens and they are now one of the best gardens in Ireland.

    We took the bus to the castle and enjoyed walking around the formal gardens then climbed up to the view point over the castle and Lough. The sun was out and it was pleasantly warm so we had tea and cake in the cafe courtyard. We finished off our tour of the gardens just as the rain started again so we ran to the bus shelter and returned to the motorhome.
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  • Day 16

    Creeslough to Killybeg

    May 17, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Firstly we went to fuel up at our “favourite” petrol company’s station, Green Apple, who seem to provide the most reasonably priced diesel, before driving on the N56, partly along the Wild Atlantic Way. We detoured onto the The Rosses to find a scenic coffee stop. We were successful and found a spot overlooking the beach, close to Donegal Airport which would only accommodate very small planes.

    We did a stop for groceries in Dunglow before heading onto our site in Killybegs which was on terraces over looking a lighthouse and the sea. En route to the site we realised another motorhome was following us and even took the same wrong turning! On arrival we had a chat with them, Carol and Dave.

    We pedalled down into Killybeg for supper. The harbour was a commercial fishing port with large trawlers moored, not quite the quaint fishing port we had envisaged. We found a good restaurant for supper in the Tara hotel and had a window table overlooking the harbour. We even found a reasonably out of the way place for the tandem on the patio. The food did not disappoint, I had salmon and prawns and Tony had a steak sandwich, both were delicious.

    We invited Carol and Dave into ours in the evening and we all stayed chatting until 1 am!
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  • Day 17

    The Wild Atlantic Way to Sleive Cliffs

    May 18, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    Despite the late night/early morning, we had the tandem out and were on the road by 10.30 am. The first part of the route was down to the coast on a small road with grass growing in the middle, a few houses, rural and scenic. We continued mainly along the coast, saw sandy bays and a dramatic coast line. We passed through Kilcar and Carrick until we reached Teelin where the Sleive Cliff Visitors Centre was located. We stopped for coffee and scones before continuing up hill (again!) to the lower car park. We decided it was best to walk the 1.5 km to the cliffs rather than cycle as it had been a very hilly route and we were keen to save the battery. It was a very scenic walk with dramatic views of the coast line and we also spotted one of the war time markings in the cliffs which helped returning pilots know where they were and that they were flying over neutral territory. As we arrived at the cliffs there were 3 vans, one selling drinks, another souvenirs and a tweed clothes van. We walked along to the viewing platform to see the cliffs and take a photo. The wind started increasing and all the selling vans rapidly shut up shop and headed off. We headed back to the bike and hoped rain wasn’t setting in. We made it to Kilcar and found a seat in a ruined church to have our picnic. We had a quick look in the tweed shop before continuing. We had one last windy stop at a coffee van for a cuppa overlooking the ocean and took the direct route this time back to the site. A 34 mile ride including 3 km of walking and 3,259 feet of climbing and stunning scenery. We battled against the wind to pack the bike back into the van. We then retreated inside into the warm and within minutes the rain finally started lashing down - how lucky was that!Read more

  • Day 18

    Killybeg to Rosses Point via Donegal

    May 19, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We did the usual van mini clean, said bye to Carol and Dave and set off for the car park in Donegal that was big enough for motorhome and located by the river Eske and abbey. On arrival we popped into the visitors centre to get a town map then walked back to The Diamond area and found a nice little restaurant called Old Stone where we ate a tasty lunch. We then went to Donegal Castle paid our 4 euro entrance fee and wandered round. The castle was built by Red Hugh O’Donnell in the 15th century and also torched by Rory O’Donnell when the British were advancing before he escaped to Spain. We don’t have many pictures of the castle as we both forgot our phones. I found an Irish gift shop to buy a couple of Irish gifts for baby Eris, we then returned to the car park to find our neighbours were Carol and Dave! We had a quick look at the Abbey before setting off and the rain starting.

    We arrived at Rosses Point Caravan Park and had a great pitch overlooking the coastline and views inland towards Benbulben Mountain which is similar in shape to Table Top mountain but I have said to Tony this doesn’t mean we aren’t still going to Cape Town to do our cancelled by covid trip planned for 2020!
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  • Day 19

    A Day in Sligo

    May 20, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    It wasn’t supposed to be a day in Sligo, we even put on our cycling clothes ready for a cycle round Lough Gill assuming the rain, if not the howling wind, would abate before our planned departure. Having consulted the weather forecast, yet again, we found that rain was due on and off all day, yet again! So after checking out what to do in Sligo and the bus timetable it was off with cycling stuff and on with civvies, including waterproofs, of course. Just then it brightened up and stopped raining but we didn’t fall for that one and continued with the “Day in Sligo”.
    The bus came on time, we were there early, and the bus stop was a couple of hundred yards from the the site gate by the obligatory, in this area, WB Yeats hotel. Three Euros for 2 seniors into the city centre 30 mins ride away, bargain.
    Once there we called in at the local museum (free entry) quite interesting with stuff from prehistoric days to the present with a lot of stuff on the separation of Ireland including information about Countess Markievicz of Lisadell House, a revolutionary nationalist who took up arms but also became the first women elected to the British House of Commons. In addition, of course, displays on WB Yeats.
    Wondering around town we came across and old fashioned department store and round the corner the parched entrance to the store’s cafe/restaurant (Lyons Cafe). Time for lunch, we opened the door went up the quiet stairs and as we opened the door to the actual restaurant we were hit by a cacophony of noise, the place was packed and humming. We managed to find one of the few free tables and Tony queued up for the food, pork including crackling, only allowed on holiday! The food was very good so, once fed and watered, we were back on the streets and checking out the local cinema, the new Downton Abbey film at 4.25 so we booked two tickets. In fact they were the only 2 booked tickets but another 5 people turned up for the performance. We did a walking tour around the town which included the remains of the old gaol where Michael Collins was held and the Sligo Priory.
    After the film, we were back out on the streets for the 7.25 bus home, 3.80 Euros this time?
    It did rain on and off all day but we managed to find shelter when we needed it and we’re happy with the revised plan. Tomorrow for the Lough ride.
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  • Day 20

    A Ride Around Lough Gill

    May 21, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    A much better weather forecast today, no rain all day, back on with the cycling clothes and bike out ready for the day’s ride. No rain, the route put into the garmin and we were off. Must have been operator error that had gavster instructing us to do a u turn continuously for the first 5 miles but then he got the hang of it and to be honest we had a map so he was only really needed to record the journey.
    It was a scenic ride so only one stop of significance, Parke’s Castle, which had been extensively renovated after 300 years of abandonment and decay. There was a very good audio visual presentation about this site and other ancient sites around the area, burial mounds, Irish tower houses etc.
    The guided tour was delayed to let us finish the AV presentation, but then the 4 people on the guided tour were the 4 in the AV theatre. Seamus, the guide, told us all about the castle and it’s beginnings with O’Rouke family, the leader being executed for helping a Spanish Armada captain and crew to get back to Spain in 1588. The castle was then given to a Captain Parke of the English army together with 1000 acres on condition he protected it for the crown. His daughter, who inherited the castle, and her husband decided it was too difficult/dangerous to live there and abandoned it to live in their other home, Lissadell House. So started the 300 years of decay.
    Continuing around the Lough, stopping for picnic lunch and back home to complete a 37 mile ride.
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