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The Camino

May - July 2023
  • Fiona Boult
The most amazing experience ever Read more
  • Fiona Boult

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Backpacking, Hiking, Self discovery
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  • Fiona BoultTravelerThe Camino

    At Roncesvalles

    May 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    We are feeling very fortunate as although our room at the Posada de Roncesvalles was VERY expensive, it is warm. Our friends staying at the very beautiful and traditional monastery have no heating and no blankets! They can see their breath inside and when we met them for dinner they were wearing every piece of clothing they possessed and fully expected to be keeping everything on overnight as like us they only have sleeping bag liners. We did ask if they wanted to share our room but think they felt awkward about this. We have two spare beds tonight. Anyway the €70 each now seems worth it! Good dinner for €15 including wine (not optional or appears) and then went to the church for the pilgrim mass. Again felt very blessed and was actually blessed (as not catholic).
    Onwards and upwards - or actually mainly steeply downwards tomorrow.
    Pictures are of the queue for the pilgrim dinner - general feeling that pilgrims need to be strictly herded on the whole!    Read more

  • Fiona BoultTravelerThe Camino

    Roncesvalles to Zubiri - Friday 26th May

    May 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    We left Roncesvalles at around 7.45 on a beautiful but very cold morning (6 degrees). Didn’t bother with breakfast at the Posada but stopped in Burguete (known as a favourite place of Ernest Hemingway) for a coffee and in Espinal for more coffee and tortilla. Outside tables in a garden and delicious food. Shortly afterwards I managed to fall backwards into a stream while trying to take a photo of the church. Very embarrassing- I felt a bit like a beetle on its back as I was wearing my very heavy pack and couldn’t easily get up. Anyway I’m fine - slightly bruised behind but no major damage.
    The walk today was varied and stunning. Quite steep, both up and down, in parts, particularly at the end but manageable. We bought fruit - an apple for me and cherries and apricots - from a van in Espinal. Delicious and kept us going for most of the day - but having said that I’m glad that dinner at the hostal is early tonight as I’m very hungry now.
    Had to help a man who had fallen in the same sort of way as I did earlier - he lost his balance a bit and then fell backwards owing to the weight of his pack! I wonder how many times a day this happens on the Camino!!

    Tonight’s hostel and host Sara are both great. We will be a very British and Irish gathering - the three Irish siblings and their friend who we met in St Jean and Denis and Bernie also from Dublin who we met on the trail yesterday. Also James from the Uk and a few others. Dinner smells v good.
    This is such a special experience - I’m loving very minute tho am definitely quite tired. Looking forward to Pamplona tomorrow.    Read more

  • Fiona BoultTravelerThe Camino

    Albergue Suseia in Zubiri

    May 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Fabulous dinner with great company (people from Ireland, USA and Ecuador).
    Started with energetic salad, mushroom and zucchini soup, special veggie dish, fab local cheese and a yoghurt dessert. I’m desperate for some of the recipes and would love to stay here again.Read more

  • Fiona BoultTravelerThe Camino

    The Camino will provide

    May 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    So I lost my scarf somewhere between Orisson and Roncesvalles- wasn’t sure what had happened to it - whether I’d dropped it or left it somewhere. Anyway today while having breakfast at a little cafe in Espinal I bumped into Julie who we’d met at Alberge Borda. She asked if I’d lost a scarf and I said I had. She didn’t have it but Tricia (also at Borda) had it. Tricia is staying at Suseia tonight and was able to return it to me! So so happy as although not valuable I really love it and I need it! It’s very light but warm and I am so pleased it’s come back to me!Read more

  • Fiona BoultTravelerThe Camino
    1

    Zubiri to Pamplona 27th May

    May 27, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌩️ 27 °C

    A day of rivers and festivals.
    We left Zubiri around 7.45 and were soon walking along the Rio Arga which we followed for most of the day. Waterfalls, rapids and deep pools that I was desperate to get into but didn’t as it would be difficult to get dry and actually difficult to leave I imagine.
    Just out of Zubiri we met up with Mel and Rachel - from Surrey. They were carrying bags of more than 12 kilos - including collagen drinks and specialist hair are apparently! And this was having sent a hold-all full of stuff ahead via the transport system. I was amazed they could lift their bags let alone carry them as my bag of around 8 kilos was practically killing me by the end of the day. They were lovely - interesting stories as always and also, as always on the Camino it seems, wanting to share quite private stories about their lives.
    Came across a fascinating festival in Vilava with enormous dancing puppets.
    This was a hard day as it was hot and the route into Pamplona was largely on tarmac when we got close. My rucksack was really hurting my shoulders so after taking a few more photos in the Marsden t shirt I’m afraid I left it at the hostel in the ‘free to a good home’ box.
    Lovely hostel - Aloha(!). We were very relieved to arrive and sat on the terrace with beers to recover. Private room with shared bathroom - with sheets and towels - perfect.
    It was Caroline’s birthday so went for a wander around Pamplona after recovering, in an attempt to find somewhere to eat. Pamplona was heaving - definitely party town and party night. Eventually decided on bar Gaucho recommended by the hostel host and we were joined by Cheryl and Janice from Winnipeg in Canada and met up with Denis and Bernie from Ireland at the same place. Delicious tapas food and then ice cream. Bar was madly busy as was everywhere in the city centre ans despite it being Caroline’s birthday fundamentally we were all exhausted so still had a pretty early night.    Read more

  • Fiona BoultTravelerThe Camino
    1

    Pamplona to Puente del Reina

    May 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    A wonderful day of cornfields, wild flowers and birdsong
    Forecast was for hot weather so we left the hostel (after very good coffee) at 7am.
    Almost immediately met up with Bego and her friend. She is from Pamplona but is working in Brussels - he is a childhood friend from Luxembourg. She was absolutely lovely and has an adopted niece which meant we immediately had something in common. We talked her family and mine and her work and learning languages.
    We met up with her several times during the day at the various rest stops. First stop was in Zariquirgui where I bought coffee, cherries oranges and a banana. All delicious. In fact two lots of cherries as they are my favourite.
    Beautiful walk meeting up with several members of our Camino family.
    I am feeling very blessed and increasingly serene. Although my shoulder hurt and I’m very tired (and hungry at the moment) I feel so lucky to be able to do this.
    Just after we arrived at our hostel the most tremendous thunderstorm started and has been raging ever since - including hailstones at one point. Hoping it will stop before we need to go out to find dinner!!    Read more

  • Fiona BoultTravelerThe Camino

    Dinner at Vinoteca Ganbara

    May 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Just a post script to or evening in puente del Reina. Fabulous dinner with our very good friends Bego and Kim. Great local wine, simple but stunningly well cooked food. Asparagus, mozzarella salad, local cheeses and to finish, tarte tatin.Read more

  • Fiona BoultTravelerThe Camino

    A day of roads - Roman and othes - Puent

    May 29, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    After the storm - we left Puente La Reina around 8 after an abortive attempt to find coffee and a wait for the rain to stop finally. Slept quite badly for some reason (probably too much good red wine the night before) so was a bit tired for most of the day. Really wanted cherries but they were not to be had until a fruit shop in Estella.
    Despite feeling a bit grumpy I had a lovely day - more beautiful scenery and large sections along a Roman road.
    Hostal in Estella was a 4 bed female room in a very interesting old building. We already knew our room mates having met them along the Way - one was an Israeli girl who lives in a kibbutz arrangement in Akko - close to where I was on Kibbutz Shomrat when I was 17.
    We tried to wash some clothes but the heavens opened again - briefly - but still meant we needed to dry them in the room - slightly awkward when sharing but in the end they dried with the help of a bit of hair dryer input.
    Lively and lovely evening - first eating at Mundo - I had a delicious poke bowl - then met up with Bego and Kim and their friend Concha for a cup of tea before a reasonably early night which I really needed.
    Slight disagreement with one of the roommates who didn’t want any windows open owing to the sound of the river (I thought it was v soothing!). But room eventually cooled down- one window was allowed to be opened - and slept pretty well - thank goodness.    Read more

  • Fiona BoultTravelerThe Camino
    2

    A day of layered landscapes - Tuesday 30

    May 30, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Left Estella at 7.30. Out through the town and into a landscape of cornfields, wheat fields, olive groves and vineyards. Around 8 we found the wine fountain - really a bit early but everyone drank a little and saved some more for later. It belongs to the vineyard and is a famous spot on the Camino.
    Blue sky and mountains in the background. Layers of colours that made me want to paint - maybe I’ll find a painting class when I get home!
    Finally found coffee in Iguzquiza - also tortilla and cake! But I mainly ate cherries form yesterday.
    Continued walking to Villamayor de Mondjardin where we filled water bottles as had been told that water was scarce after this. Gently undulating path after Villamayor. The joy of a food truck half way to los Arcos where we bought ice cream.
    Altogether another day when I felt very very lucky to be doing this.
    Arrived in Los Arcos around 2.30 and checked in at our pension - Ostradar.
    After washing clothes went to explore the town, drank beers and arranged dinner with Denis and Bernie and Sheryl and Janice. €14 delicious three course pilgrims meal including wine. The church was open after dinner - extraordinarily beautiful.
    Very tired now.    Read more

  • Fiona BoultTravelerThe Camino
    1

    I haven’t mentioned birdsong yet! Los Ar

    May 31, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    I really need to talk about my new obsession with birdsong. As I walk along the Way I’m being serenaded by thousands of birds. Until now although I’ve been interested I’ve never really known which birds were around me. Well now I do thanks to an amazing app that records the songs and tells you who is singing.
    On the day between Roncesvalles and Zubiri I met a man who I now think gave me a wonderful gift and May be one of the Camino angels! He told me about the Merlín app from Cornell university and I now use it all the time. It certainly slows me down but I don’t care as I find it fascinating and am beginning to be able to identify some of the birds without it. I’ve had cuckoos, corn buntings, melodious warblers, turtle doves, serins, goldfinches, firecrests, cirl buntings, black caps, nightingales, Cetti’s warbler and zitting cisticola as well as blackbirds, chaffinches, sparrows, martins, swallows and swifts. Quite amazing.
    Slept really well and left at 7.30. We’ve give ourselves a shorter day today and tomorrow in lieu of having a rest day and this has seemed to work quite well. We will catch up with some of our Camino family in Najera and have actually reconnected with a couple of people who have also decided to stop in Viana.
    The walk was about 18 km - flat to start and then undulating to Viana. Coffee and croissant at Sansol then a beautiful octagonal church at Torres del Rio.
    Hot walking today but a very welcome truck about 6km before Viana where we topped up with water and an orange.
    Viana is a truly lovely town - narrow streets with tall houses, a fabulous church and a ruined fortress church with amazing views over the surrounding countryside.
    Had a siesta this afternoon which was much needed then a pilgrim meal with Tricia and Rachel joining us (slightly worrying moment when Tricia said she did know Rachel because she had had to wait for her to finish using the tumble dryer in a hostel at 10 in the evening - it possibly hadn’t been the most harmonious moment but Tricia seemed happy to forget about it and Rachel didn’t seem to remember she’d met Tricia so all fine). Only on the Camino!    Read more

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