• Sonia Gelman

2023 Adventure ATW

This is our third attempt to see Africa. Читать далее
  • Ushuaia, Argentina

    15 февраля 2023 г., Аргентина

    Today is our first port in Argentina.
    Ushuaia is the capital of Tierra del Fuego province. It is located below 54th parallel. It is the world southmost city.
    We docked at 11:00am right in the center of the city. There were few more cruise ships in the port, one docked and few required tender boat ride. There were few expedition ships docked. Very busy port.

    This is our third time in this port, so in 2018 and 2020 we had a whole day tours of surrounding areas. For today I booked a public boat ride to Beagle channel. The tour is at 3:00pm, so I had time to walk in the town.

    It is very difficult town for Boris to navigate, in addition the weather was really not friendly. Pouring rain with mixture of snow and very windy. I decided to go on my own. Well, I did not last long and by 12:30 was back on the ship.

    For the tour, we dresses in every warm clothes we had. We left our ship around 2:30, found our tour boat and we’re inside the catamaran close to 3:00pm.
    We were going through Beagle Channel, stopping near one island with lots of birds, then docking at the other island for a short hike. The view from the top of that island was stunning, unfortunately I forgot to take my phone with me, so no pictures.
    We stop near another island with more birds and sea lions 🦭 and island with southmost lighthouse in the world.
    Beagle channel is connecting Pacific and Atlantic Ocean. On one side is Chile and on the other side is Argentina.
    Inside catamaran was not too cold, but to see anything we had to be outside. And even with all warm clothing, hats and gloves it was freezing. But we enjoyed it very much.
    We got back by 6:30pm, walked back to our ship, had a quick dinner. Boris went straight to bed and I went to play brain teaser.
    Next few days are at sea going through Drake passage.
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  • Antarctica Passage

    19 февраля 2023 г., Антарктида

    This footprint is for three days of amazing views of Ice, snow, glaciers, mountains and sea life.
    Thanks to our wonderful captain and expedition leader on the board, we were able to experience all at a very short distance.
    We passed Drake Passage on February 16
    And crossed south 60 parallel.
    On February 17 we woke up to a foggy morning and then a snowfall. The crew members were very happy to see first snow in their life. Some built a snowman on the deck. The weather became much better in the afternoon with the sun picking up.
    No matter how hard you try, the pictures do not show the beauty that is surrounding you in Antarctica.
    Next day, February 18… different passages, lots of sea life and special evening dinner with our friends.
    Can’t get any better.
    Today is more beautiful places, lots of pictures. It is cold, but we do not mind.

    Tomorrow we will slowly go toward Falkland Island. We hope the weather will be calm in order for us to visit it.
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  • Falkland Islands

    21 февраля 2023 г., Фолклендские острова ⋅ 🌬 52 °F

    Yesterday we passed Drake passage. It can be the roughest water to pass, but we got very lucky and the ocean was calm.
    Today we got a tour to Newan’s Station. It is is a colony of approximately 200 breeding pairs of Gentoo penguins.

    We got up at 7:30am, had breakfast and by 8:30am we ready to go ashore. Our tour was at 12:30pm, so we had plenty of time before our tour to get on the tender boat and then walk in the town.
    I asked Boris to go to a lounge where he can get a tender boat tickets and then meet me one deck lower before going to the tender boat. Meanwhile I took a wheelchair and a motor to the lower deck to ask where we can leave a wheelchair while we are on the tour.
    After 15 min of wait for Boris to come to meet me, I went to the Insignia lounge to see if he is there. He was not. I went on the tender boat deck, nobody seen him there too.
    I went back to one deck up and continued waiting for him. Another 45 minutes passed. No Boris. I repeated all over again…Insignia lounge, tender boat level, back to level 4.
    Then I mentioned to guest services that my husband is missing. They check and told me “he took a tender boat and he is on the shore”.
    I had to drag a wheelchair to Insignia lounge, wait for tender ticket, go two deck lower, take tender boat. All this time Boris was waiting for me on the shore.
    The crew member told him to board the tender boat and they would find me, but nobody looked for me and as soon as he got on the boat, it took off.

    Finally we were on the shore together. We went for a walk, but it was very windy and cold, so we found a coffee shop and spent some time there before our tour.

    The tour started by getting into a mini bus with a drive/guide and drive for 15 min to Newans Station.
    There we transferred to a 4x4 for another 15 min off road drive to Gentoo penguins.
    There were also two King penguins among them. After one hour on the beach with the penguins and hot chocolate with penguins shaped cookies, we made our way back to the tender boat.
    In the evening we went to a buffet for a dinner and the to see a wonderful singer.
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  • Punta del Este

    24 февраля 2023 г., Уругвай ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    After two days at sea we are ready to go ashore. Today is a tender port. We were on the first tender boat. We have been in this city in 2020, so for today the goal was to see the part of the city we missed before and have haircut for Boris and haircolor for me.
    Upon arrival at the dock, we turned right and walked all the way to the lighthouse.
    We passed beautiful beaches, luxury condos, some upscale hotels.
    First, we found a barber shop and Boris had a good haircut, then we walked and found a place to eat and next to the restaurant a hair salon. While Boris was eating, I took care of my hair.
    And then we walked more and admired beautiful resorts, expensive cars and beaches.
    That was pretty much our day.
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  • Buenos Aires, Argentina. Day 1.

    25 февраля 2023 г., Аргентина ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    This is our third time visit to this beautiful city. We decided not to book any tours and go on our own.
    We got out of the ship around 9:00am, took a required shuttle that got us out of the port and then met another couple that became our friends (Younga and Dave) and started walking thru not very good neighbourhood to the center of the city.
    Our first destination was its center… Plaza de Mayo, lined with stately 19th century buildings including Casa Rosada, the iconic presidential palace. It has the balcony on which Madonna stood when the movie “Evita” was filmed. And also where Eva and Juan Peron were addressing people in 1940s and 1950s.

    Boris and our friends also visited a Cathedral, the main Catholic church in Buenos Aires, Argentina. It is located in the city center, overlooking Plaza de Mayo, on the corner of San Martín and Rivadavia streets, in the San Nicolás neighbourhood. It is the mother church of the Archdiocese of Buenos Aires and the primatial church of Argentina. Unfortunately, I had to stay outside with a wheelchair.

    We continue walking toward Teatro Colon which we visited in 2020. It’s one of the best theatres of South America. We could not visit it, they were maintaining lights or something like that. Then just around the corner we spotted a very grand synagogue. Unfortunately, it was Saturday and the place was closed.

    We continued walking toward Recoleta cemetery where Eva Peron is resting. This cemetary is the first public cemetary in the city was built in 1822 by French engineer Prosperous Catelin. Throughout its five hectares, the majestic pantheons and mausoleums belonging to many of the most important figures in Argentina. We all been in this cemetery before, but our friends missed Eva Peron grave. This time we found it. We spent some time wondering through the allies of the cemetery.

    We did a lot of walking by now, so we found a taxi and went back to the ship. We only walked 7 miles this day.

    We had to get ready for a special event in the evening.

    At 4:30pm we got on the provided transportation to the event and tango show. We had very good three course dinner with wine and a fabulous tango show. An amazing evening.
    Tomorrow is another day in Buenos Aires.
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  • Buenos Aires, Argentina. Day 2

    26 февраля 2023 г., Аргентина ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Another great day in Buenos Aires.
    At 9:00am we hopped in the taxi and in 15min were dropped at Botanical Garden.
    Unfortunately, we had to walk all around the fence to find an entrance.
    Occupying seven hectares, the garden has a collection of some 6,000 tree and plant species, a botanical library, Roman, French and oriental gardens. Also, few greenhouses that were closed.

    Many of the plants and trees are grouped into regions, including a collection of native Argentine flora.

    The grounds also contain a large collection of sculptures.

    The gardens were empty when we came, but it was Sunday and more people came later. Still, not crowded. We spent couple hours in the gardens and had to retrace our steps back to the entrance gate.
    We then walked to ecological park.
    Former zoo turned ecological park with paths amid native plants & free-roaming & enclosed animals. The Buenos Aires Ecological Park is a large green area that runs the length of the wealthy Puerto Madero neighbourhood. It is incredible beautiful and we totally enjoyed walking through it. A perfect weather helped it too.
    We then walked to another park to take few picture of Taras Shevchenko monument.
    He was a Ukrainian poet, writer, artist, public and political figure, folklorist and ethnographer. His literary heritage is regarded to be the foundation of modern Ukrainian literature and, to a large extent, the modern Ukrainian language.
    Now it was time to find food. I googled a near by restaurant, but when we got the address, there were no restaurants. Luckily, there were few options, we settled in a cafe and had a light lunch

    After lunch, we took Uber and arrived “home” by 2:30pm.
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  • Montevideo, Uruguay

    27 февраля 2023 г., Уругвай ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    We have been in Montevideo twice before and have seen most of the city.
    Today we started walking through the pedestrian section of the city and then turned toward the oceanfront. We walked along the shore for a while, but then decided to visit one of the museums. We decided to visit Museo Gurvich. Luckily it was open, since we found out later that most of the museums were temporary closed or closed on Monday.
    It is an art museum located in the centre of the city. Two out of 5 levels are temporary display and the rest are by the artist José Gurvich.
    After museum, we walked more in the city and then decided to turn back to the centre as we reached not a pleasant section. Did not feel safe.
    We found a good rated restaurant in a business part of the city, had a very good lunch and walked back to our ship.
    That was our day. Next two days are in the sea before we get to Brazil.
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  • Santos, Brazil

    2 марта 2023 г., Бразилия ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    Santos is a municipality in the Brazilian state of São Paulo, founded in 1546 by the Portuguese nobleman Brás Cubas. It is located mostly on the island of São Vicente, which harbors both the city of Santos and the city of São Vicente, and partially on the mainland. The population is around 400 thousands .The city is home to the Coffee Museum, where world coffee prices were once negotiated. There is also a football memorial, dedicated to the city's greatest players, which includes Pelé, who spent the majority of his career with Santos Futebol Clube. Its beachfront garden, over 5km in length, figures in Guinness World Records as the largest beachfront garden in the world.

    We have been in Santos before. Five years ago and hired a driver that took us around, so this time I contacted him again to do a similar tour today.

    The driver (Cesar) came right on time. Our first stop was Monte Serrat. Upon arrival we took a funicular to the top. Another option is to walk 400 steps.
    There is a nice view of the city from the top. There is also an old casino building. The casino was open from 1927 to 1946. As of now it is a party house.
    There is also a church that was build in XIV century.
    Our second stop was beachfront right across beautiful Basilica.
    It was a nice break. Inside was nice and cool.
    We took a stroll along the beachfront garden and spent sometime at a beach cafe drinking cold water.
    Most of high rise buildings along the beach are leaning due to the soft grounds.

    Now it was time for lunch. Cesar took us to what he described one of the best restaurants in Santos. It is a Brazilian barbecue. The food was very good. I think we all had enough meat for few weeks.
    Then we drove to Pele museum, but only went to a gift shop to buy a jersey for our grandson. Hope he likes it.
    The heat and humidity got the best of us and we were ready to go back on the ship.
    The traffic was extremely heavy. Glad to be back on the ship and take a shower.
    No dinner this evening. Too full to eat.
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  • Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. Day 1

    3 марта 2023 г., South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    This is our third time in Rio.
    Today we docked in Rio at 10:00am. Ant it is hot and humid.
    It is a beautiful scenery when you approaching the city. The mountains and the dense population between mountains is a big contrast.

    We met our guide Carlos at 10:30am.
    Out first stop was Tijuca Forest. It is actually a National Park which is partially Atlantic Rainforest. Boris and I have been there in 2020, but only in a small portion of it. This time we had longer visit with drive thru the park and more stops to take pictures.

    Due to higher elevation, it was more pleasant in the park. Not as hot.
    We continue driving to the places where we could see Ipanema and Lebron beaches.

    We also drove along Capacabana beach and downtown. Since we arrived late today, we had 4.5 hours tour. Tomorrow is going to be full day tour.

    Carlos drove us to the Museum of Tomorrow located close to the port.
    It is basically a science museum with very beautiful modern outside architecture.
    We spent around one hour in the museum, but we were very tired because of the heat and also very hungry.

    We stopped at the cafe in the museum and had a light very late lunch.
    We wished we could spend more time at this museum, but we were totally “done”.
    We walked back to the ship, which was not an easy task due to the heat.

    After shower and lots of water, we felt a little better. Now we could eat dinner.
    Tomorrow we have an early start. Have to leave the ship at 7:00am to meet our guide at 7:30am.
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  • Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. Day 2.

    4 марта 2023 г., Бразилия ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F

    It was already 77F at 6:00am. We had some quick breakfast in our cabin and by 7:00am were ready to go.
    We met Erin and Mui in the cruise ship terminal and walked few blocks to meet our tour guide at 7:30am.
    Already it was HOT. Today with a heat index suppose to be 98F in the shade.

    Yesterday I checked google and according to it Sugarloaf opens at 8:00am on Saturday. When we came there close to 8:00am, we were first, but they opened at 8:30am.
    We got on the first lifter to the lower platform and took another one to the very top. It was perfect, the blue sky, clear view, amazing. No matter how many times you see it, the view from every point never gets old. In addition having a good tour guide helps the perfect experience.
    When we were getting back, there was a big line to get in with people packed very tightly.

    Our next stop was Selaron Staircase. Last time when we were in Rio, we had to walk few block thru the worst place we have ever been. Lots of drug addicts laying on the street. We had to step over the bodies. This time our guide parked right across the stairs. Lots of people, can’t see tiles. We spent few minutes there, took few pictures and got back in the car. In addition it was extremely hot 🥵.

    Then we drove to Catedral Metropolitana de Sao Sebastian. The architecture is inspired by the Mayan pyramids. It was built in 1960th, and can accommodate up to 20,000 people.
    Then we crossed 13 km bridge across the bay to Nitenói. There we saw few interesting contemporary buildings.
    By now we were ready for lunch. Carlos took us to a seafood restaurant and we had a great lunch.
    Full and happy, we drove to another park to see another views. To get there, the tour guide had to turn air conditioner in the car and drive all the way up without stopping.
    The view from the top was fantastic plus we saw people do paragliding from the platform.
    We were back on the ship by 4:00pm. It felt good to take a shower and rest.
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  • Cabo Frio, Brazil

    5 марта 2023 г., South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    Cabo Frio is a municipality in the Brazilian state of Rio de Janeiro. It known for its beaches. So for today we decided to go to the beach.
    Before going I removed my phone from the case to put it in a waterproof case and saw that the back of the phone is all cracked. That is why only few pictures for today.
    We hired a taxi with another couple and in 10min were on the beach. Despite being only 9:00am, the beach was crowded. The sand on the beach is white and like a silk.
    We rented 4 chairs and an umbrella and settled on the beach.
    Boris and I went to swim and encountered one unusually big wave. The wave covered us completely and we both lost our glasses and Boris lost his hat. Couple people came to help Boris to get back on the beach. Not a big deal, but without sun glasses and a hat….not the best.
    I found a vendor on the beach and purchased two pairs of sunglasses for $10. Good deal. Fifteen minutes later, a nice guy delivered Boris’s hat. We are all set!
    The water in the ocean is clean and refreshing. We spent 4 hours on the beach and then went to a local restaurant for lunch. Delicious!
    Uber ride after lunch and we are back on the tender boat for a ride to the ship.
    Small salad for dinner that is all we could eat after big lunch.
    Glad tomorrow is a sea day. Time to rest.
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  • Salvador de Bahia, Brazil

    7 марта 2023 г., South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    Salvador de Bahia is one of the oldest in the Americas and one of the first planned cities in the world. It was established in 1549. It is declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1985.

    We got up at 6:30am and went on deck 10 for a walk. Already it was hot. I made few loops and could not handle it any more. Went inside to the gym. It was hot in the gym.
    We arrived at 10:00am and as soon as the ship got cleared, we got out and met our guide. Few minutes later the van arrived and we settled in. It was 15 passenger van for 8 of us. Pretty comfy, unfortunately the air conditioner did not work. We asked for the other vehicle.

    Our first stop was Lighthouse. The current structure was built in 1839 and dedicated by Dom Pedro II of Brazil. It is constructed of masonry and painted with black and white bands. The lighthouse is a 22 metres (72 ft)-high tapered tower with a Fresnel lens dating to 1890.

    After few stop to see few plazas, we stopped at The Cathedral Basilica of Salvador.
    Original church was built in XVI century. After the expulsion of the Jesuits from Brazil in 1759 the school and church were transferred to the Archbishopric of Bahia. Archbishop Augusto Álvaro da Silva ordered the demolition of the existing cathedral of Salvador in 1933 to construct a tram line, and elevated the existing Jesuit structure to the status of basilica.
    The inside frescoes covered with 800kg of 18 karat gold.
    We then walked to Franciscan church.
    São Francisco Church and Convent of Salvador was constructed in 1578 and then was destroyed by the Dutch during Dutch invasion of Bahia in the next century.
    Construction on the present-day church and convent began in 1708 and completed in 1723.
    The inside decorated with blue and white tiles imported from Portugal.
    It was so hot and humid, that we all were looking forward to a new van with air conditioner. Meanwhile we went for a 40 min walk thru the centre of the colonial city. Very colourful buildings, art sellers on the street. The population of the city is 80 percent of African descent.
    Boris could not walk for 40min on cobblestone streets in 100F, so he was waiting for us in outside cafe.
    A new van was waiting for us. We settled with an anticipation of cold air…..not to be. Due to the traffic, van had no chance to get proper air function.
    We drove by the lake with figures representing gods. The figures were installed in respect to African mythology.
    Our next stop was Basilica Santiario. Another amazing church.
    We then got back to the ship. Boris went back on the ship and I checked a local market. Nothing interesting there. Then I walked back to the ship. We were totally exhausted from the heat. After the shower, and lots of water to drink, we felt a little better.
    We had dinner with friends and went right after dinner to bed. We are staying in this city for one more day, but decided stay on the ship and enjoy a day of rest.
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  • Maceio, Brazil

    9 марта 2023 г., South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ⛅ 82 °F

    The city of nothing. The tour of nothing.

  • Recife, Brazil

    10 марта 2023 г., Бразилия

    We have been in Recife before and had a tour of the city. For today we decided to take an Uber to two different places.
    We took a shuttle to the port entrance and then called for Uber to reach Officina Ceramica Francisca Brennand.

    It was about 40 min ride through very rough neighbourhoods. And then we entered a forest. For 2 miles we drove through the most beautiful park like forest . Then we entered an open air museum garden with sculptures. Finally we reached an entrance to the museum.

    Brennand primarily displayed his work at the Oficina Brennand, the compound encompassing the working tile factory, museum, chapel, and café. The Oficina features around 2,000 of Brennand's pieces in enormous open halls, outdoor monuments, alters, chapels, and gardens.
    It was totally unexpected place. We enjoyed it for around 90min, we still had another our until the 1:00pm opening of the other museum. Time for lunch.
    Right after lunch, we called another Uber and went to Ricardo Brennard Institute.
    Again, we drove through very poor areas until we entered an amazing park with perfect landscape, lakes and sculptures.
    Hard to describe how beautiful it is.

    It is a cultural not-for-profit private organization, inaugurated in 2002 by the Brazilian collector and businessman Ricardo Brennand. It comprises a museum, an art gallery, a library and a large park.

    Ricardo Brennard who died in 2020 from Covid is a cousin of the sculptor Francisco Brennard.

    There are items from Early Middle Ages to 20th century, with strong emphasis in objects, documents and artwork related to Colonial and Dutch Brazil, including the world's largest assemblage of paintings by Frans Post.

    The institute also houses one of the largest collections of armory in the world, with 3,000 pieces, the majority of which were produced in Europe and Asia between the 14th and 19th centuries. The library has over 62 thousand volumes, ranging from 16th to 20th century.

    We walked through the park and the museums win an open mouth. Every corner had a surprise. We only had 2 hours to spend there. We could easily spend 2 days.

    Back on Uber and in 30 minutes we were at the terminal taking shuttle to the ship.

    In the evening we had a lovely dinner.
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  • Natal, Brazil

    11 марта 2023 г., South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    Today was a beach day. We met our friends in the morning, hired an Uber and 25 minutes later settled on the beach.
    The waves looked big, but not too bad and we were able really enjoy warm clean ocean. After an hour I talked our friend Younga to join me on a dune buggy ride. The ride was for about 40min with 3 stops for pictures. It was really fun.
    After we got back to our table where Boris and David were waiting for us, we ordered lunch. Freshly cooked shrimp with rice, beans plus tomatoes and French fries. Delish.

    After lunch, back on Uber and back to our “home”.

    In the evening, we had a nice dinner with Younga and David in the specialty restaurant.
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  • Fortaleza, Brazil

    12 марта 2023 г., Бразилия ⋅ ☁️ 84 °F

    This is our last stop in Brazil before crossing Atlantic Ocean to Africa.
    Initially we did not want to go anywhere today. We have been in this city before.
    Well, I have to go somewhere when the ship is in port.
    We changed into our swim suits, called Uber and went to the beach.

    The beach is very nice with lots of chairs, tables, people and vendors.
    I went in the ocean and the tide was very low and the waves were pretty strong. I did not go far.

    After one hour on the beach, we were back in Uber going back on the ship.
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  • Mindelo, Sao Vicente, Cape Verde

    16 марта 2023 г., Кабо-Верде ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Republic of Cape Verde is an archipelago and island country in the central Atlantic Ocean, consisting of ten volcanic islands.
    It was uninhabited until 15th century, when Portuguese discovered and colonised the islands. Cape Verde gained an independence in 1975. The population is a little over 500 thousands.

    After relaxing three days at sea, we arrived in Mindelo at 10:30am and shortly after met our guide David. Our group was 6 people. In addition to Erin, Mui and us there was another couple from California.
    We settled into the van and our first stop was a market that include some hand made stuff and interesting Portuguese blue and white tiles. We also visited fish and produce market.
    Then we drove to the highest point on the island. The view from the top is worth the drive. We stopped for a local coffee and liquor, then continued down to send dunes.
    At around 2:00pm we stopped for a lunch at what our guide told us the best restaurant on the island. I ordered octopus and Boris got tuna. Both were delicious and plentiful. We finished lunch with ice cream.
    On the way back to the ship we stopped at the beach. Unfortunately, only Mui and I wanted to swim, so we decided not to make other people wait and also we did not want to leave our stuff on the beach without someone watching it.
    Our next stop was our ship.
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  • Dakar, Senegal

    18 марта 2023 г., Гамбия ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    Dakar is the capital of Senegal, in West Africa. It’s an Atlantic port on the Cap-Vert peninsula.

    Instead of 8:00am, our ship got cleared close to 9:00am. Not a problem for us as our tour was suppose to start at 9:00am.

    I booked a tour for 4 people. Erin, Mui and us.
    We met our guide Oamar as soon as we exited. the ship.
    He spoke very good English and almost all the way to Reserve de Bundia talked nonstop. He told us many interesting facts about life, education and history of Senegal.
    The area was colonised by Portuguese in the 15th century. Portuguese established a presence on the island ofGorée and used it as a base for slave trade. French took over the island in 17th century.
    The country gained an independence in 1960.
    Still 40 percent of population is illiterate and 60 percent younger then 19 years old. Unemployment is 50 percent. Big problem with drugs.
    95 percent of the population are Muslims, and the use of drugs is prohibited.
    Our tour guide told us he has 29 brothers and sisters from his father’s side and 9 from his mother’s side. Each man can have up to 4 wives if he can afford them and has to threat them equally.
    It took us one hour to reach the Reserve.
    We got onto safari 4x4 open car and had a wonderful tour for an hour through the reserve. We saw lots of animals, trees, birds. Very enjoyable.
    Then we drove for another for more then 1.5 hours to reach a restaurant for a lunch.
    The traffic was very heavy and the roads are horrible.
    The so called restaurant was on the property of the hotel.
    The meal was in the form of the buffet: rice, chicken, pasta and bananas.
    I had a small piece of chicken and two bananas.
    The restaurant was close to another attraction- Pink lake. This lake has a very big concentration of salt and used for salt mining. The lake is suppose to have a pink colour because of algae. Recently there were lots of rain and the lake was flooded.
    Because of the this, the algae died and the colour of the water is changed and now it is a normal water colour.
    We needed to be back on the ship by 5:00pm and were a little concerned about the traffic.
    Our driver took a short cut on unpaved road, but avoided the traffic.
    We were back on the ship after 4:00pm, took shower and had a great dinner at the specialty restaurant.
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  • Banjul, The Gambia

    19 марта 2023 г., North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    We docked in Banjul at 7:00am since it is only short distance from the previous port in Dakar, Senegal.

    Banjul is the capital city of the Gambia, a small West African country completely surrounded by Senegal. The city sits on an island where the Gambia River meets the Atlantic Ocean.

    I booked a private tour and we were joined by our friends, Pat and Norm.
    Erin and Mui booked the same tour, but their group had 6 people.
    We were on the pier at 8:00am waiting for our guide, but they went to the dock where another ship was docked.
    Then finally we saw them running and few minutes later they came.
    Erin’s group got an open air pick up truck and we got closed old minivan.
    Both cars were traveling together.

    Our first stop was Catholic Church. There was very brightly dressed women coming out of the church.

    Our second stop was Albert Market where locals sell colourful textiles and local produce. The produce market, especially fish market, was mildly said “disgusting”.
    Dirty, fish was completely covered with black flys. Hard to describe. Could not wait to get out of this place.

    On the way to the Kachikally and Crocodile Pool and Museum we stopped few times to see place where women harvest and processed clams, drying fish, piles of peanut shells used as fertilisers.

    We visited museum with the display of different costumes used during ceremony, musical instruments. Then we visited a crocodile pool where we could pet a large male crocodile.

    After driving some more, we came back on our ship, glad to take a shower…

    Last two ports gave us a good taste of west African countries. More to come.
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  • Abidjan, Ivory Coast

    22 марта 2023 г., Кот-д'Ивуар ⋅ ☁️ 86 °F

    Abidjan is the largest city and economic capital of the Ivory Cost. Population of the city is over 6mil.
    Abidjan was originally a small fishing village, but in 1896, following a series of deadly yellow fever epidemics, French colonists who settled in Grand-Bassam decided to move to a safer place. In 1903 Abidjan officially became a town.
    The city expanded after construction of a new wharf in 1933.
    Abidjan became an economic capital of the country.

    We docked in Abidjan at 10:00am and today we booked an 8 hours tour to Grand Bassam.

    Grand-Bassam is a resort town near the city of Abidjan. We were hoping to go for a swim, but first we had to get out of the port and drive thru the city. And what a drive it was! We were escorted by three policemen on motorcycles. They were driving ahead of us pushing cars to the sides and making just enough room for us to pass through. Sometimes the bus was driving on the opposite side of the road agains the traffic. Boris and I were in the front seat witnessing the show. There were six buses with passengers from the cruise ship going together. The ambulance was going behind our bus convoy.

    We stopped at a market. It was very dark and hot inside the building. I guess the power was off.
    We then entered Grand-Bassam.
    The old French-colonial town center, once the nation’s capital, is filled with decaying 19th- and 20th-century houses. The National Museum of Costume displays examples of traditional dress in a former governor’s palace. It is a small museum.
    The costumes are displayed behind dirty glass. Impossible to take pictures due to the reflection from the glass.
    We spent a little time in this museum and returned back to our bus.

    Our next stop was a beach resort where we had lunch.
    After lunch, more driving. We stopped at so called museum of civilisation.
    The next stop was St. Paul Cathedral. Huge Cathedral with beautiful stain glass windows.
    More driving, another market. Boris and I stayed on the bus while other people shopped.
    After that more crazy driving. Finally, we are back on the ship.
    Quick dinner, shower and we are ready to sleep.
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  • Sekandi-Takoradi, Ghana

    23 марта 2023 г., Идти ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    Another new country for us.
    I was uncomfortable taking a private tour, so we booked expensive Oceania tour to two castles: Cape Coast and Elmira.

    Sekondi-Takoradi are twin cities. We left the port and our convoy of few buses with a policeman on the motorcycle drove for two hours to our first stop: Cape Coast Castle. It is a world UNESCO heritage site.

    Cape Coast Castle is one of about forty "slave castles", or large commercial forts, built on the Gold Coast of West Africa (now Ghana) by European traders. It was originally a Portuguese trading post, established in 16 century. It originally was a centre for the trade in timber and gold. It was later used in the Atlantic slave trade.

    They were used to hold enslaved Africans before they were loaded onto ships and sold in the Americas, especially the Caribbean. This "gate of no return" was the last stop before crossing the Atlantic Ocean.
    We were given an excellent tour of the slave history that was continued for three centuries. The horrible conditions people were kept. Very somber experience.

    On the way to the second stop we passed a fishing villages and saw the team work by fishermen. Only men are fishing, the process of the fish can be done by women only.
    In general people are very friendly and we were met with smiles.
    The living conditions are pretty poor with few nice houses here and there.

    Our second stop was Elmira Castle. It is bigger then Cape Coast Castle. Another good tour was given by local guide.

    After that we drove to the resort and were treated to a good lunch with local music and dancing.

    Our tour guide was very good and kept us engaged all the time during a long ride.
    One interesting fact: they have only 7 male and 7 female first names for each day of the week. So by name you know what day the person was born.

    We were back on the ship by 4:30pm.
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  • Lomé, Togo

    24 марта 2023 г., Идти ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F

    Togo, a West African nation on the Gulf of Guinea. In the capital, Lomé, are the multistory Grand Marché bazaar and the Fetish Market, offering traditional talismans and remedies relating to the vodun (voodoo) religion.

    Today we booked an afternoon tour to see a Voodoo ceremony in the village of Sanguerra not too far from Lomé.
    We boarded our big bus, our tour guide was talking all the way to the village telling us in details about Voodoo religion. Too much unnecessary information. Approximately 33 percent of the population practice this religion.
    The road was good until we turned toward the village. Unpaved road was full of huge potholes filled with water. Impossible to see how deep the potholes were. Sometimes I thought the bus will fall on its side, but we made it.
    It was very interesting to see the dancing and chanting of local people.
    After ceremony, back on the bus.
    In the evening we has a Togo toga party. Lots of passengers and crew members came dressed up in “Togo” outfits and there were music, singing and dancing.

    Tomorrow is another port and also we are loosing one hour.
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  • Cotonou, Benin

    25 марта 2023 г., Бенин ⋅ ☁️ 86 °F

    Benin, a French-speaking West African nation, is a birthplace of the vodun (or “voodoo”) religion. Almost half of population is practicing it.

    Since we went to see voodoo ceremony yesterday, we decided to see a village on stilts. 45,000 people live in this village.
    We got up at 7:00am, had breakfast and by 8:30am were waiting in the lounge to get out tickets and go on the bus for the tour.
    Around 9:00am we were told that there will be five busses going on this tour, but only three came.
    They asked for volunteers to give up the tour. Some people decided not to go. The tour time was moved to 9:45am.
    At 10:00am we were told again that there are only 3 buses. By this time, I think enough people gave up, so we were given tickets and went outside to get on the bus.

    Our first stop was a enormous statue of Amazonian woman. Then another huge statue of warrior (can not give any details, the tour guide did not have a microphone 🎤).
    We passed big market with locals selling everything, lots of motorcycles with up to5 5 people on one, motorcycle taxis with a drivers in yellow T-shirts,

    In about 45 minutes we arrived at the entrance of the village and boarded a little very old boat.
    The ride through the stilts village was pretty interesting. There are schools, shops, other services…all on the water.
    There are no running water. They have one water station where everyone fills buckets with running water.
    We came back on the ship around 2:30pm, had a late lunch, shower and spent a nice quiet evening.
    Tomorrow is a sea day. Glad to have rest after four hot days of tours.
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  • São Tomé & Principe

    27 марта 2023 г., Сан-Томе и Принсипи ⋅ ⛅ 82 °F

    Today is a tender port. São Tomé is the capital and the larger of two island of this Central African country. It is located 25 miles north of equator.
    The country was founded in 1493 by Portuguese. The island was uninhabited before 1470 and Portuguese came in search of land to grow sugarcane.

    2,000 Jewish children, eight years old and under, were taken from the Iberian peninsula for work on the sugar plantations. Most of them died, the rest mixed with the nearby African Kingdom of Kongo that eventually became a source of slave labor as well.

    I booked a private tour for 6 people. We took first tender boat and around 8:30am met out guide. So far, so good.
    Then we saw his car…. It could accommodate six people, but very tight. In addition, four of 6 were very big tall people. Oh well, may be with air condition it will be not too bad. Soon we found out that there is W4-40 air conditioning only (4 open windows - 40 km/hour).

    The tour was basically driving around and stopping in few places to take pictures.
    We saw lots of children in school uniforms. The birth rate is 6-7 kids per woman. Island has very young population, like most of African countries.

    The island has small production of cocoa and makes very good chocolate.
    Our last stop was a chocolate store. Beautiful pastries, gelato and chocolate (also air conditioned store). Suddenly it felt like we are in a different country…somewhere in France. The illusion was short lived, back in the hot 🥵 sun and hot car.
    After we came back onboard, I crashed on the couch and for 30 minutes could not move. Cold shower later made it a little better.
    At 4:15pm there will be a big crossing equator celebration on the upper deck. This is our third crossing on this cruise, but only first time the ship was giving a permission for big gathering.
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  • Crossing Equator

    27 марта 2023 г., South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ⛅ 82 °F

    At 4:15pm we had Equator Crossing Celebration.
    The line-crossing ceremony is an initiation rite that commemorates a person's first crossing of the Equator.
    There was a Neptune, a Judge, a 25 pounds fish to kiss and lots of fun.Читать далее