Morris & Susan's Viking WC

January - May 2024
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  • Day 102

    Venice, Italy

    April 19 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    April 19
    Aaahhhh, what is it about Venice that makes the heart sing? We don't know if it is Morano glass, gondolas, or winged lions, but we do know that Venice is a special place that makes us happy. We took a boat taxi to our hotel by the Rialto Bridge and settled in before our Gondalo Ride in the Canals.

    Couldn't help but notice how much cleaner the water and the city were since the last time we were here. We were told of the cities' stricter rules and improved utilization of pull carts as they walk the alleyways ringing doorbells to collect the trash. Nice improvements and making a hugh difference in the city.

    April 20
    We are in for a treat as we met our eccentric Venitian artist mask maker in his workshop to learn all about the art of mask making. Once the basic clay face shape is made, he creates a plaster negative mold in which to shape the mask using a paper mache technique of glue and a wool blend paper. Several layers later, after drying and sanding, it is coated with a white tempura paint, and the artist is ready to paint and decorate.

    We all had fun when the artist put different masks on the guys as he told us the history of each type of mask. For example, the mask w the long nose was used in the Middle Ages by physicians during the Black Plague, and they would put herbs inside to nose to hide the bad smell of death.

    Women, by contrast, wore Button Masks. The mask was held in place by putting the button located behind the mask in their mouth. Since they could not talk, they had to flirt to get a man's attention at the ball. If they like you, they ask you to reveal yourself. If they then ask that you put the mask back on....., oh ohh.

    We then went to St. Mark's Square, Basilica, and Doge's Palace. Love the Venitian clock in the Square. Its hands are set to relate to sunrise and sunset and correspond closer to the lunar Jewish calendar. Napolean didn't like it and chose the French clock time, which we all still use today.

    Our guide also told us that Venice was more free spirited, and unlike Rome, maintained separation of church and state. The first republic was where the Doge (leader) was elected. Thomas Jefferson was said to have traveled Europe to look at all types of government and chose Venice as a role model for the U.S. elections, and separation of church and state.

    While walking the bridges, canals and fun shops, we saw a pair of shoes from the 1400's. Venice is known to flood, and these shoes were built on platforms so that women could walk through muddy water and not get their feet wet or dress dirty.

    That night, we had a wonderful canalside dinner table as we watched the Gondalo's go by before going to an enchanting Vivaldi concert.
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  • Day 100

    Florence (Tuscany), Italy

    April 17 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    From Rome, the tour drove through the lovely Tuscany countryside of green rolling hills to our quaint hotel. The countryside is so serene, and dotted w yellow fields of crops used to make canola oil everywhere.

    After happy hour, we met our chef who conducted an Italian cooking demo on the veranda overlooking the hillside. Showed us how to make potatoe gnocchi and biscotti. Susan found that the secret is to use 00 Flour, don't over handle, cut into small pieces, and cook fresh. Morris also put his skills to the test by making biscotti w the chef. We then enjoyed a lovely dinner of Pasta Bolognese and Panna Cotta.

    The next morning, we took the metro into downtown Florence and spent the morning w/Catalina, our local Florence guide. Florence was the capital of Italy before Rome, and the powerful Medici family ruled from Florence for 300+ years (1400-1700). Story goes that they made their money in wine, and when the 2 banks in Florence failed, they swoped in and became bankers to kings as well as the Catholic Church.

    Speaking of wine, our favorite was learning about the little wine windows, Buchette del Vino. It is a peculiar feature of Florence dating back to 1559, when Cosimo Medici decreed that people could sell wine directly out of their homes. Later, it was used to sell wine without having to open a shop and could avoid taxes. It may be time to introduce this idea to the USA.

    The Uffizi Museum gallery was built in 1560 by Medic family to house administrative and judicial offices. It later housed their massive private art collection. What's interesting is that when the family decided to open the collection to the public, they became the first museum in the world, and it is now considered the oldest museum in the world.

    The "Gallery of the Academy of Florence" is an art museum and is best known as the home of Michelangelo's sculpture David. What a treat to see this iconic masterpiece of David up close! It gave us a whole new appreciation.

    The evening took us back to the countryside hotel for another homemade dinner and a fun local guitarist.
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  • Day 98–103

    Rome w Rick Steves

    April 15 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    Our Rick Steves (RS) Tour starts. We have been following RS since Susan traveled to Europe in 1984. A RS Tour means being on the go, traveling light, and having great local guides. This RS Tour called Best of Europe is going to take us to 5 countries in 14 days, starting in Rome and ending in Paris.
    So we downsized again and are ready to quicken the pace.

    April 15
    Met the Rick Steves Tour family today. Great group of 28 from all parts of the U.S. and Canada.

    Started with a lovely orientation walk around Rome hitting the highlights with an insiders narrative that added so much more depth and history. Walked past the Spanish Steps and Trevi Fountain, which were jam-packed with tourists.

    Ending the evening over a lovely group dinner and a few bottles of wine.

    April 16
    Got an early start to see Vatican City and Tour St. Peter's Basilica before the crowds arrived. Our local guide explained the history of why the Pope still uses Swiss Guards and how Vatican City operates independently of Rome, recognized as its own country.

    St. Peter's Basilica is vast but magnificent. Michalangelos' famous Pietra is behind glass now due to vandalism in the past but has been restored. The center alter is covered at the moment in preparation for the Vatican Jubilee in 2025. Morris climbed the steps to the top of St. Peter's dome and enjoyed a grand view. Took in the Vatican Museum in the afternoon and Michelangelo 's painting in the Sistine Chapel.

    April 17
    This morning, we headed to the Colosseum and Forum Ruins to meet up w Francisca, our local guide. Let's just say that she brought the forum ruins to life with her stories, passion, and love of Rome. As she reminded us, Rome is a lot to take in as a whole until you look at it like the many layers in a lasagna. 2800 years of history with a mindset of building things to last (no planned obsolescence), but as time wore on re-using of old materials (like building foundations) to rebuild on top of the old.

    As we walked past his burial site, she explained the Ides of March, the infamous day Julies Caesar was assassinated. She pointed out that we were walking on the world's oldest surviving road, The Appian Way, which was Rome's vital lifeline, serving as both a military and economic artery. She ended our tour by saying, "Your footsteps are now with the footsteps of the Ceasars."

    The last site visited was the Pantheon, a truly amazing site. It's the only ancient Roman building that has remained intact through the centuries. Its columns are over 1900 years old and are single pieces of marble that came from a quary 62 miles from the Nile River in Egypt. The inside is even more spectacular and still studied by students today.

    Rome is such a warm, beautiful city, and we'll be back one day soon ❤️

    After lunch, we hopped on the bus for Tuscany!!
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  • Day 97

    Rome

    April 14 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    Returned our car and explored Rome over the next 5 days. Enjoyed all that it has to offer at a leisurely pace, utilizing the wonderful metro system until we started the Rick Steves Group group tour. It's impossible to describe it all so here is a short summary of the highlights.

    Churches, Statues, Archeticture, Pasta (love seeing 150 year old resturants making pasta in the windows), wine!!.....what's not to love.
    The best part is people watching here. People talking, waving their hands about with emotion, laughing, lingering over good food and wine. Italians have such a passion for life, and it's infectious.

    Wondered into a workshop where they were restoring marble. Met Andrea, a young architect apprentice that was learning the old world craft of restoration from the older gentleman that has been working w marble and plaster for 40+ years. What a treat to talk with them to see a craft that might soon be lost.

    Went to the Capitoline Museum and The Victor Emmanuel II National Monument, built between 1885 and 1935 to honor Victor Emmanuel II, the first king of a unified Italy, 

    Went to Piazza del Popola, where Police were celebrating their anniversary and utilizing it for recruiting. Showing off motorcycles. police cars, helicopters, and a Lamborghini Police car!!! (Don't think that would fly in the U.S.).
    Took in the Leonardo DiVinci Museum. Toured the underground of the Colossuem (fascinating), and attended a Musical Concert w the 3 Tenors in a Church for Susan's Birthday.

    Toured the Villa Medici House and Gardens. In Naploean's time, France took over the house, and now, every year, 16 Art Students are selected by France to study here and master the art of marble carving.

    One night, we even met up w Nora and Phillip that now live in Rome and Nadia. (What are the odds that she would be visiting her daughter while we are here). Fun night at dinner catching up.
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  • Day 93

    Naples

    April 10 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    We stated our day walking along the waterfront towards the Ova Castle, which was closed for restoration, so grabbed a coffee nearby and enjoyed the views of the shoreline.

    Came across the "Venus of the Rugs" Monument Art by Michalego Pistoletto. The artist expresses a tribute to ancient statuary vs. an innovative reflection of our consumer culture. Gives you pause for thought!

    Continued walking towards Basilica Reale Pontificia San Francesco da Paola Square (Say that 3 times quickly 😀). Much like St. Marks Sq in Venice but smaller. Napoleon's brother-in-law was King of Naples at the time and had it built for the Emporer. The Royal Palace faces opposite it.

    Took a tour of the Teatro di San Carlos and saw the Opera "La Gioconda" from the box seats that night. Acoustics and performance were fabulous. The opera house, built in 1732, was gorgeous, and one thing we found fascinating was that every booth had a mirror in it facing the royal booth in the back. The reason we discovered is that no one could applaud until the king does.

    Great way to end our night!. Back to Rome tomorrow....
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  • Day 92

    Pompeii, Italy

    April 9 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    It was surreal to see Mt. Vesuvius looming large before us as we drove to Pompeii this morning to visit the ruins. Such an iconic landmark due to the cataclysmic eruption that consumed the city and the people of Pompeii in AD 79.

    When we entered the ruins, we were overwhelmed by the shear size of the city (over 15,000 people) and what happened here. To see
    it uncovered is quite remarkable as you walk about and imagine what life was like back then and how tragic that day must have been for the community.

    The details of the architecture, carvings, and fresco paintings that were preserved due to being covered are amazing and can be seen in the structures we saw including the Basilica, Temple of Apollo, Roman Forum, Bars, Theaters, Bath Houses, Shops, Homes, Government Buildings. It's definitely a walk through history.

    Had lunch at the ruins and loved that the restaurant had a variety of tomotoe vines and lemon trees planted around it to use for its dishes or to sell. Gave you a feeling that life goes on.

    After a full day, we headed to Naples and arrived into a bustling city. Even though we were in the older section of town, the hotel turned out to be quite nice, so we buckled up for what tomorrow would bring.
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  • Day 90

    Positano/ Sorrento (2 Days)

    April 7 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    Off to Positano, but along the way came across the Ceramiche Casola ( recommended by Morris's cousin Davina). They do the most beautiful handpainted tables, chairs, dishes, etc. So, of course, we ended up getting a custom 20" Lazy Susan (w/lemons, of course) for an outdoor table. Can't wait to see the artist's design.

    Town of Positano is carved even closer into the hillside with cute lanes and steep steps everywhere. The road is one way through town so don't miss your destination 😉 Enjoyed an afternoon in the town overlooking the views and beaches.

    Later that afternoon, we arrived in Sorrento, a larger town on the west side of the Almafi Coast, to our lovely Hotel Eden. In the courtyard of lemon trees, we were greeted by "Michael" the GM of the hotel . When we asked where we could dine and listen to music at night, he graciously offered his home for a homemade dinner and to meet his family. We joined another couple from Ireland and had an amazing evening as Michael showed us his underground winemaking, olives, and garden. His wife prepared a delicious meal of sphagetti w vegetables and sauce made from their garden. The bread was from a home bakery down the street. We ended up spending over 4 hours there as the time flew. Simply wonderful evening!!

    In the morning, we took a ferry to the Island of Capri, then Boat Tour around the island to see the Light House, white grotto, green grotto, blue grotto. Quaint island that gets a lot of tourists. Enjoyed the town and local beach, a little too cold for a dip. After a full day there, it was back to Sorrento.
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  • Day 89

    City of Amalfi

    April 6 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 63 °F

    Ahhhh, the Almafi Coast! As we drove along to the city of Amalfi, we couldn't help but admire all the terraced lemon groves nestled in the terraced hillsides. This is why this area is home to limoncello liqueur production.

    As we entered the town of Almalfi today, we, of course, had to have a lemon slushy that is served in the lemon itself andcthese lemons are massive. It was very refreshing and delicious!

    We continued through town as we headed to the Amalfi Paper Museum that is housed in an old paper mill dating back to the 13th century. We were given a tour as we admired the centuries-old machines used in the production of handmade paper, a process learned from the Chinese.
    that the Arabs later replaced
    with fabric.
    The mill used wooden hammers, which, driven by a hydraulic wheel (water from the local river), would shred and beat the cotton rags that were collected from the houses into a watery pulp that could be screen and pressed into handmade paper.
    At one point, Almalfi had 18 paper mills and supplied paper worldwide. Bank of America (Bank of Italy, originally) had its paper printed here when it was first formed.

    Had dinner in the Byzantine Church Square and met 2 young couples from San Diego who had just attended a friend's wedding in Rome. We loved watching the Wonder in their eyes.
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  • Day 88

    Salerno/Ravello/Priano (Amalfi Coast)

    April 5 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    From Caserta Palace, we drove south and spent the night in Salerno, the start of the Amalfi Coast.

    After exploring the town and its castle on the hill, we drove west to Ravello because we were advised that it's a great place for lunch. WHAT an understatement!

    Excelent lunch and billion dollar view

    We then drove further west to check into our hotel in Priano. That sounds so ho-hum, BUT did I mention that this is the Amalfi Coast?

    Please allow me to break that sentence down. "We then drove" - our first rookie mistake. Driving on the Amalfi Coast is an act of danger and adventure at the same time. I could call the streets narrow, but a better way to put it is that I've readjusted my definition of a close call from a few inches to a few centimeters. On a road that can barely support one lane of cars, there are large vans and busses driving towards you, double parkers everywhere, Italians driving scooters zipping everywhere, and people crossing the street around blind curves. My knuckles were white.

    "Checked into our hotel in Priano." To check into a hotel sounds simple, but there are multiple steps required. First, you need to find the hotel, and we drove through town twice because there was no way to stop or make a U turn. Then you have to park, find the hotel lobby, and check in. We double parked (like a true Italian), and Morris finally found the hotel hidden down 200 stairs on the "hill" while Susan watched the car and luggage. Heck of an experience, but what a gorgeous view.

    The stairs definitely gave us a workout, but that won't stop us from returning to this beautiful place ... but without the car 🚗.
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  • Day 87

    Caserta, Italy

    April 4 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Set off today for the Amalfi Coast, but first, a stop at the RoyaI Caserta Royal Palace and Park. (Italy's Palace of Versailles).

    As we arrived, we were amazed at the granduer and scale of the Palace. It has influences of Versailles, Rome, and Tuscany and was designed according to the wishes of Charles of Bourbon III by Luigi Vanvitelli, one of the greatest Italian architects of the 18th century.

    The grounds were so impressive as we walked out the back of the Palace, and fun to explore. A series of cascading waterfalls (first 7 represent days of the week, next 12 the months) were built in line and continued until it reached the natural waterfall set into the hillside.

    The grounds have been the set for major films such as Star Wars and Mission Impossible.

    What beautiful grandeur!
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