• Nancy and Doug Trips
May 2019

Italy 2019

Our trip to Rome and Sorrento May 2019 Read more
  • Santa Sabina

    May 11, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Walked up a hill just past Circus Maximus past the Rome Botanical garden where the roses were in bloom to this church. There were some monks/brothers dressed in robes talking to groups of people. This area is very pretty as the buildings are not so close to each other, there are "backyards" so to speak and it was favoured by the notables in Roman times.

    The Basilica Sanctae Sabinae is located on the Aventine Hill; it is one of the city's oldest churches and dates back to 422-432. It is built on the site of the home of Sabina, a convert to Christianity and Roman martyr who was later declared a saint. The founder of the church was Peter of Illyria a monk who gives his name to the square and adjacent convent. The structure of the church is a classic rectangular-style with light colored décor and simple design which gives the space an airy feel. The church underwent several changes over the years. It was at one point incorporated into the Crescenzi family fort; in the 16th-17th century restored in the baroque-style and later in the 1800s became a steam laundry. It was under Mussolini that Antonio Munoz restored the church for the last time. Many layers of history and architectural styles are evident in the structure.
    Highlights of the church building include the 5th century cypress wood portal with scenes from the Bible; 24 church columns which came from the Temple of Juno Regina; 9th century chancel furniture; a fresco by Taddeo Zuccari and large selenite windows which shed light on the church mosaics. On the floor of the nave is the city's only surviving mosaic tomb dating back to c.1300.

    Article:
    https://romanchurches.fandom.com/wiki/Santa_Sabina
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  • Giardino degli Aranci

    May 11, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Nex to the church, is a lovely enclosed garden which belongs/belonged to the church but now is a lovely spacious park space with a gorgeous view and there really are orange trees. Seems a particularly romantic spot.

    The Giardino degli Aranci, Parco Savello or Garden of Oranges is located on Aventino Hill, it is one of the city's most romantic locations and often used as the backdrop for wedding photos. The park is believed to have been created when Saint Dominic brought an orange tree from his native Spain and planted it in the vegetable garden of the adjacent Savelli Castle which housed a monastery. The sapling flourished and additional orange trees were planted. Saint Catherine of Siena is thought to have used the tree's oranges to make candied fruit for Pope Urban VI. The monastery's garden became the park we known today when it was redesigned by Raffaele de Vico in 1932.
    From the Garden of Oranges you can see the Basilica of Santa Sabina and the drawbridge and towers which once formed part of the Savelli Castle. The central promenade leads to a terrace at the highest point of the park where there are sweeping views across some of Rome's most famous structures.
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  • Forum Boararium Area

    May 11, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Walked back down the hill and then did a walk through this area where animals were brought in by boat for slaughter and distribution. Nancy feeling a bit tired in her feet but Doug remains fascinated and engaged to see all the corners of the neighbourhood thanks to his new shoes, inserts and support sox (?bionic man). However, he admits in the end, yes he is getting tired too, it's been a long day since that jog up the Spanish steps!

    A quiet corner of the city, this area beside the Tiber is great for escaping the crowds. The site was ancient Rome’s first port and its busy cattle market; substantial Classical remains include two small temples from the Republican age and the Arch of Janus from the later Empire. In the 6th century the area became home to a Greek community from Byzantium who founded the churches of San Giorgio in Velabro and Santa Maria in Cosmedin.
    Also seen were: San Giovanni Decollato; Arch of Janus; Arco degli Argentori; San Giorgio in Velabro; San Teodoro; Santa Maria della Consolazione; Sant’Omabono; Casa dei Crescenzi; Forum Boarium; Fontana dei Tritoni; Cloaca Maxima.

    Article:
    http://www.aviewoncities.com/rome/forumboarium.htm
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  • Dinner at Taberna Piscinula

    May 11, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    While walking through the Piazza Piscinula where we started our travels on arrival, Nancy stops to look at a menu and the waiter comes and tells her of the pasta special of the day - home made ravioli. Since this is the pasta Nancy would most like to learn to make and the waiter is very polite and not pushy, we decide to try it. It was very good - nice salad and pasta was fantastic. Wonder if I can learn to make it - our host in Sorrento is to teach us how- we will see. We have the wine at home as Doug wanted to try a bottle (the only way to get him to perk up while I looked around the grocery store we finally got to!). Wine in the restaurants has been very good and very cheap, typically €5 for 1/2 litre with dinner. One can not afford not to drink here!Read more

  • Day 6 Travels

    May 11, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    From the Tridente to the Aventine

    Started with the H bus to Reppublica to catch the Metro, but it was closed weekends for work. The replacement shuttle bus Navette did not run very frequently, but eventually connected us to the Flaminio Metro where we began our morning ramble.

    After lunch, we waited for Bus #160 which ran all the way past Circo Massimo. Our afternoon walk ended at home.

    Distance: 23,395 steps; 17.7 km
    Weather was sunny, then cloudy but no rain developed.

    Live map:
    https://drive.google.com/open?id=1c2KQjqRkuO6fL…
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  • Mercato Centrale

    May 12, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Tried an artichoke at the Mercato Centrale along with broad beans and portobello mushrooms. Despite the look, the artichokes were quite good - but not good enough for either of us to feel motivated to prepare them ourselves. Yesterday Nancy was regretting that we had booked an electric bike trip for her of the ancient Appian Way for a number of reasons - she was #1 tired, #2 feet hurt a bit, #3 expected rain, #4 behind in journaling, #5 need to rest up for another big day planned tomorrow. So, the day started with it looking like pretty good weather wise (ambivalence), then clouds (adjusting positively to the idea of a rest), then thunder and intense rain (OK, able to bail out for good reason). Fortunately, TopBike gave three options one of which was to cancel but they would supply ponchos if she went (wouldn't help her shoes). Decided to take the refund. Doug was working on the photos and I was investigating options as would like to get out but no museums today please for Nancy! Decided on a visit to the Mercato Centrale market in Termini station for a poke around and lunch and Doug would go to the Museum and Nancy would come back and we'd have dinner in plenty of time for the 8 pm soccer game.Read more

  • Basilica Santa Maria Maggiore

    May 12, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    This is huge as it is a Papal seat and very worth seeing. It was the only church to have army security and metal screening, indicating its significance, but also it is technically under the Vatican as if it is an Embassy, so you are crossing a border here!. Two large side chapels are almost churches in themselves.

    The present church dates back to the 5th century. Upon entering the church visitors are met with the stunning gold color on all sides in a vast and highly decorated space topped by a high coffered and gilded ceiling. The treasures in the church include the statue of King Phillip IV; the bronze floor (1949) depicting scenes from the life of Mary; the Holy Door blessed by Pope John Paul II and created by Luigi Mattei; the façade's rose window; Torriti's mosaic decoration of the apse and the church's prized possession, the Holy Crib. 5th century mosaics run the length of the nave depicting the four cycles of Sacred History. It is also the location of Bernini's tomb.

    The present church's bell tower is the tallest in the city (75 meters) and the belfry is home to 5 bells, including "La Speduta" which is rung nightly at 9pm to call Christians to prayer.

    Article:
    https://romanchurches.fandom.com/wiki/Santa_Mar…
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  • Museo Nazionale Palazzo Massimo

    May 12, 2019 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    Doug spent time in this very impressive museum of ancient Roman and Greek artifacts. The displays are well done with excellent placards.

    The works of art are housed within a 19th century neo-renaissance style palace in the center of the city originally intended as a Jesuit seminary. The museum artifacts are spread over 4 floors and consist of sculptures, coins, jewelry, frescoes and mosaics from the Republican, Ancient Roman Empire and late Roman Empire periods. There are also original Greek sculptures which were discovered in Rome which include the Boxer at Rest, the Dying Niobid and the statue of Augustus Pontifex Maximus. Perhaps the best known piece in the museum is the Discus thrower (Lancelotti Discobolus) this is one of several copies of the 2nd century bronze original by Myron. There are very good frescoes that were found in the House of Livia on the Palatine Hill.

    Article:
    http://www.aviewoncities.com/rome/palazzomassim…
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  • San Crisogono

    May 12, 2019 in Italy ⋅ 🌫 15 °C

    Before dinner we bought Doug a bus ticket to the game from the local tabacchi and entered the church across from it on a whim. This one is right in our neighbourhood, old and blending in so much with the surroundings that Nancy had not noticed a church there (despite reading a brochure in our apartment on it).

    It has very ancient origins back to about 500 AD in the crypt and is one of the oldest churches in Rome,. As with us, it is often overlooked but it is surprisingly beautiful, a perfect example of how different periods have left their traces over the centuries. The exterior is a 17th-century facade added to a medieval structure and the bell-tower dates from the 12th century. In the 18th century, Cardinal Scipione Borghese, a powerful patron of the arts (remember the Borghese Gallery?) commissioned the architect Giovan Battista Soria to undertake a major renovation and had his name written over the facade.

    Inside the church is the quiet and dark medieval atmosphere, the traffic noise is left behind. San Crisogono has one of the most beautiful and well-preserved 13th-century mosaic floors in Rome. During the Middle Ages, a family of artists, called Cosmati made a great number of decorations out of the remains of ancient Roman coloured marbles.

    Once again, we see the re-use of materials with twenty-two ancient Roman columns that separate the nave from the aisles: it is a typical plan of the early Christian basilicas in Rome. The gilded wood ceiling was also added in the 17th century and in the centre is a copy of St Chrysogonus in a Glory painted by Guercino, the original being in London although it is possible this is the original and the copy is in Lindon, no one seems to be sure.

    Article:
    https://romanchurches.fandom.com/wiki/San_Criso…
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  • AS Roma v Juventus

    May 12, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Doug has added to his "collection" of UK/EU soccer games with a home game at Roma vs Serie A Champions Juventus. The atmosphere was incredible -- you could almost feel the ground shaking as you walked up to the stadium. The crowd, was, as expected, very alive, but what a tough crowd. Every touch of the ball by CR7 raised a deafening chorus of boos and jeers. And Roma was not sharp in their passing and the boos started building halfway through the game with every intercepted pass by Juve. A very exciting game by two very talented teams, and a 79' goal by Roma and another in injury time left the crowd ecstatic. Italian "efficiency" with transit meant Doug did not get home for 2.5 hours, though!Read more

  • Day 7 Travels

    May 12, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Couple sights near Termini.

    Bus H again to Termini.

    Short walk around the area. Then Bus H for Doug back home.

    After our visit to the Mercato, Doug went to visit the Basilica and Museum, while Nancy took familiar Bus H back home (still both of us are worried about her total lack of navigating Rome's streets). Doug made it to the museum before the downpour, then it eased but as he was leaving, it opened again, so back in the museum to see more!

    Around 16:40, Nancy was wondering if she missed an e-mail from Doug about his return (as he did not have a key to let himself in), so decided to go out and peek around the block to make sure. There he was, sitting at a café, sipping a tall cold beer and eating bruschetta! He muttered something about being coaxed into it by the young waiter and, after all, it was the last day to try this cafe and he had not had bruschetta in Roma yet. He'd only been there five minutes and still looked like he had staggered in from another day of intense sight, or should we say, church-going.

    For dinner, we ate what we had bought at the Mercato - an Italian spicy calzone pie with broccoli, pecorino cheese and salami stuffing, an eggplant and rice arancini (Sicilian suppli - no cheese). These are quite good, not greasy despite being fried, a caprese salad minus the basil and the rest of the red wine.

    On to new adventures tomorrow as we will travel south into Naples. Rick Steves describes Naples as one of his favourite European cities if you can look beyond the chaotic and somewhat seedy exterior. He describes Sorrento as a good choice for Americans so I am expecting somewhat the opposite of Naples ie less chaotic, more pastoral and less "seedy". Rome, we will be back in a few days for a last night in town. We have yet take a picture at Trevi Fountain - a must do before we leave.

    Distance: 17,687 steps; 7.5 km

    Live map:
    https://drive.google.com/open?id=1c2KQjqRkuO6fL…
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  • Off to Napoli

    May 13, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Dapper Doug at Roma Termini awaiting platform announcement for our trip to Naples.

    Trip by train very pleasant with Italo (reserved seats, clocking at a max of 304 km/h taking us 70 minutes to get to Naples).

    On arrival in Naples, we found the baggage storage across the aisle from Platform 5 to be efficient and well organized (€6 per bag) but then had difficulty figuring out where to buy the Metro ticket. The train system Trenitalia actually owns Line 2 of the metro so the tickets were from the dispensers with their name on it on the lower Metro level. Line 1 is run by a different outfit.
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  • Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli

    May 13, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Took the Naples Metro Line 2 both going and coming back. Got off and passed a small park located on the same side of the road and just up the hill from that was the brick building housing the Archaeological Museum that has famous statues from the Caracalla Baths and mosaics and frescoes from Pompei and Herculaneum where we would be meeting a gude at 15:00. We knew it was a tight time line and we used Rick Steve's one hour audioguide to do the quick tour. We had packed a sandwich which we ate while looking at the map of the museum. Could have definitely spent one hour more there, the trade off being then that we would need to use a day to trek back to to the archaeological sites once in Sorrento and we didn't want to use our precious 3 days to do that. Admired the Farnese Bull which is quite incredible and the damaged areas were replaced by various artists (e.g. the dog was done by Michelangelo). Hercules was a Roman knock-off of a Greek bronze original and became a popular mass production, gracing gardens all around Europe during the 1700-1800s. The Alexander the Great conquest mosaic was amazing - such intricate art work done in mosaic.

    Official site:
    https://www.museoarcheologiconapoli.it/en/
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  • Ercolano (Herculaneum)

    May 13, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We took the metro back to the train station , picked up our luggage and a couple of drinks to go and made for the ticket booth for the Circumvesuviana train which runs from Naples to Sorrento. There are two lines - an express "tourist" or the much grittier "commuter" train which probably stops 25 times and you are warned to watch for pick pockets. Got on the commuter train both times as it was the only one that fit with our schedule. It provided to be a memorable experience (stood up a lot of the way, quite rickety, did not have any untoward incident but later met a lady who was aware that someone was trying to get into her purse). Quite a few tourists with baggage on the train; would not want to take it late at night for sure. Fair hill going down from the train station to Herculaneum but lined with pleasant looking restaurants; nothing scruffy about the place and I'd certainly entertain a one night stay. Met our guide Antonio from Askos tours who provided an in-depth enthusiastic and caring commentatary as he ferried us about this very interesting site. We left with a very good idea of a typical Roman home layout. There were many well preserved areas including mosaics and even charred wood where beams were and the pots where "take out" food Roman style was served from. There was another British couple with us. Despite the blue sky initially, it started to rain fairly heavily and we cut our guide short as he went overtime and we wanted to catch the train in order to get our 18:45 shuttle van to Villa Carolina.

    Article:
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Herculaneum
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  • Dinner at Villa Carolina

    May 13, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    You can tell by our faces that we love Villa Carolina. On Doug's suggestion, Nancy dashed out of the train station to find the shuttle and hold it while he brought the suitcases as we knew we would barely make it. We were quite relieved that we made the connection and arrived about 15 minutes later and were seated at dinner at 8 pm. The dinners at the Villa were lovely and very good value at €25 each for antipasto, primi (in this case spaghetti with zucchini) and dolci (tonight an amazing ricotta cake and ice cream from Il Duomo, a gelateria owned by Carlos's sister that we later visited on Corso Italia). We were both pretty exhausted and fell right to sleep in our lovely room.

    Distance: 17,782 steps
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  • Relaxing Morning at Villa Carolina

    May 14, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    A cool breezy day to start but bright and promising. Great breakfast spread with eggs made to order from their own chicken and ducks. Took a stroll around the property - very lovely and they have their own lemon trees, olive trees, garden and chicken coop. We would later find out they can about 400 bottles of plum tomatoes every season in addition to making their own olive oil. A very busy couple - Carlo is a trained chef and bar manager and he made the best latte/expresso/americanos on the trip. Emanuela is very personable, helpful, and organized with excellent English skills. She obviously has a good sense of style as the place was very contemporary in its home décor; Carlo called it "the woman touch". Two resident dogs including a Lab accompanied Carlo on his property rounds.

    Doug wanted to catch up on some photo work so Nancy just relaxed and in the afternoon we decided since the sun was out we would just get a beer to go with the cheese we had bought at the market in Rome and relax on the terrazza until it was time to go to town for dinner.
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  • Walk to Sorrento

    May 14, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    We decided to walk instead of taking the shuttle to go into town. It is a fairly steep grade in the middle portion with a series of switchback steps. By the end, Doug was not feeling like he would want to do them again and certainly not if it was slippery. On the way down we passed by little monuments depicting the 14 stations of the cross. It was surprising that a church had been built half way up and it must have taken some doing to bring all the materials up the incline plus build the walkway. The walkway spilled out quickly onto Corso Italia, the main drag. Compared with anything we had experienced in Rome, this was Italy Disneyed up for the tourists but still containing authentic establishments. Despite the tourist vibe, it was an enjoyable, relaxed place, not overly crowded and felt very safe. It did contrast sharply with the crumbling look of the hospital which was located on the same street. Nancy dropped into a couple of souvenir shops, bought some candies for Julia while Doug strolled the street (refuses to go into any of them due to his clumsiness around fragile objects.

    Distance: 8,411 steps

    Live map:
    https://drive.google.com/open?id=1fwG82B2gkWOXV…
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  • Dinner at Parrucchiano La Favorita

    May 14, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Nancy booked this restaurant with quite a history. It is apparently the birthplace of cannelloni. It expanded over the years to now seat a whopping 600+ people. It is surrounded by a lovely garden with lemon trees and minilights. She anticipated an interesting and memorable spot but not likely for the food. The setting was very pleasant although the garden would have been more special than inside the atrium glass which felt a bit vacuous. Service was adequate but not particularly friendly. Food was a 5-6/10, nothing special but adequate. Not our best meal, certainly not the worst, interesting in it's own way. Just don't expect gourmet. You could just go in and look around or maybe have a drink in the garden rather than eat there.Read more

  • Walking in Sorrento

    May 15, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Today, we did a walking tour of the town, without any particular agenda. We took the van down and walked to Piazzo Tasso then down the steep stairs to the port. The walk along the waterfront past all the beaches was interesting. It is early in the season and the weather was cool, so there were no bathers to see, but one notices there is a combination of boardwalks/piers and sandy beaches behind protected breakwaters. The interesting feature are these little cabanas that are change rooms and lock up. They can be rented for the day, but apparently families also rent for the entire season and just keep all their beach paraphernalia locked up during the week so they don't have to bring stuff down when they come to the beach.
    We went back up by elevator (€1 vs. a 100m climb) and walked back through town with a couple of stops and took the van back home.

    Distance: 9,586 steps

    Live map:
    https://drive.google.com/open?id=1fwG82B2gkWOXV…
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  • Lunch at Bagni Salvatore

    May 15, 2019 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    Walking along the beach, we crossed the various cafes and "beach enterprises" and the owner here came out and pitched his special of the day. It sounded promising, so we took a table out on the pier. Extremely fresh and simply prepared fish — suspect they caught it after we ordered!), an excellent coffee and even some English Breakfast tea!. Glad we stopped.Read more

  • Chiostro di San Francesco

    May 15, 2019 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    During our visit, there was a display of inlaid wood "paintings" or 'intarsia' by a well-known local artist named Giuseppe Rocco that were really quite remarkable.

    This is built on the ruins of a 7th-century monastery. Next to it is a late-medieval church, both dedicated to St Francis of Assisi, and is a showpiece of various architectural styles from pre-Roman through Arabic to medieval. We did not visit the church,

    The cloister, built at the same time as the church features an Arabic portico and interlaced arches supported by octagonal pillars, is a tranquil garden filled with bougainvillea and vines that climb over arched arcades, which are made of soft tufa stone and rubble pinched from earlier pagan temples. During the summer there are art exhibitions and concerts set to the stunning backdrop of the cloister and it is also one of Sorrento’s most popular venues for weddings.
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  • I Giardini di Cataldo

    May 15, 2019 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    I Giardini di Cataldo was founded in 1999 by Salvatore Esposito in honor of his father Cataldo who firmly believed in the preserving and handing down of traditions to future generations. Apart from producing citrus fruits, the Esposito family of I Giardini di Cataldo is devoted to the production of liqueurs, marmalade, and gelato ice cream using artisanal techniques.
    There is a lemon grove in the heart of Sorrento with a store / café in front selling their products including gelato and limoncello.
    We each had a gelato enjoyed at a table under the lemon trees.
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  • Dinner at Villa Carolina

    May 15, 2019 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    Emanuela taught us how to make Ravioli alla Caprese (from nearby Island of Capri) and we had it for dinner. Met a pleasant couple Joanne and Arthur from New Jersey who had rented a car and there was a mix up in their booking and other adventures. Very pleasant. They will be leaving from Naples the same day we leave from Rome.Read more

  • Ischia Day Trip

    May 16, 2019 in Italy ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    The morning dawned cool and breezy with promising blue skies. Quite a chop on the water but as Ischia is served by the large hydrofoil, we went ahead with a day trip to Ischia. Nancy really wanted to visit Poseidon Thermal Spas (one of 22 on this island). A bit of a rush getting down to Sorrento Port, buying the ticket, finding out where to load and in an hour we disembarked. Not sure whether to spend $ on taxi vs bus but reports were the bus Line 2 with EVA would get us right there. Two buses loaded with people from the ferry left and then we waited 45 minutes for another to come. Met a pleasant English couple on the bus who said since they amalgamated bus lines with the mainland, service had declined and taxis were v expensive. The island is quite large, drier, with a lot of succulents compared to the mainland, towns were larger than I had thought and looked prosperous.Read more

  • Giardini Poseidon Terme

    May 16, 2019 in Italy ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    The Citera Beach south of Forio (end of Line 2) is very nice, resorts along it and then Poseidon at the end. It is quite large and a bit of a process getting organized - €10 deposit for bracelets, then need to rent towel (€4) and robe (€7) with a deposit for those (cash only for deposits). Quick salad and water in the self serve restaurant (€10,50, not a rip off) and then we went through the suggested route taking 2 hours to go from coolish pool, to a sauna in the rock grotto, plunge, and then increasing temperatures in the pools. Liked Arethrusa 36 C the best as it has a great view. The sauna was a feature — a cleft/cave in the mountainside that is a volcanic vent and the hot water runs under the benches and out beneath your feet.

    Gardens were lovely. Pathways quite safe, good handrails. Bring your own bottles of water with you if you go as there are no fountains around.

    Had to be certain to leave time for catching the bus but it was right on time for departure from just outside Poseidon. Pleasant ride back in time to look around Porto a bit and get on the ferry.

    A somewhat rushed but enjoyable day overall and now we know what Mediterranean islands look like. The Greek colour scheme is entering the environment as we saw more houses of white and bright blue trim on Ischia than anywhere else.
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