• Kate Pritchett
May 2023 – Aug 2025

Camino de Santiago 2023/2025

A 815-day adventure by Kate Read more
  • Trip start
    May 14, 2023

    Travel Day 1

    May 14, 2023 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 75 °F

    Leaving OKC as scheduled. I can’t believe this day is finally here. It was hard to leave Neal but it will be so fun to meet him in Santiago. I hope my backpack travels to Paris with me today/tomorrow.

  • Travel Day 2: Le Jet Lag

    May 15, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌧 61 °F

    I made it to Paris! The flight was LONG but calm and on time. Drizzly today, so the souvenir shops are doing a brisk business in umbrellas, but I am ever aware of my pack weight on the trail ahead and didn’t shop at all. More sight-seeing tomorrow before I head south.Read more

  • Travel Day 3: Art in Paris

    May 16, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 46 °F

    I KNOW. A photo (or a postcard or a print) won’t do them justice, but here’s some of the art that moved me today. I started the day with a walk with no specific plan. I had to learn to stay out of the way of the hundreds of bicylists during rush hour! There was art everywhere I looked! Eventually I made my way to the Musée d'Orsay, which did not disappoint.Read more

  • Travel Day 3: Faces of Paris

    May 16, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    I loved how there are faces lurking everywhere in Paris - on buildings, bridges, etc. I especially appreciate the moustaches. Here are a few, plus a sculpture with a very expressive face at the Musee d’Orsay. I think she’s about to finally make that important decision.Read more

  • Travel Day 3: Walking in Paris

    May 16, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌙 52 °F

    According to my phone (I didn’t use the Garmin all day, which was a mistake), I walked 13.8 miles today! Some of my routes were from Google, while others I made up in the moment, and I saw incredible things all day long.Read more

  • Travel Day 4: Trains to Saint Jean

    May 17, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Today’s subtitle: Intimations of Intimidation
    This morning I got up at 5 to go to the train station (not impressive: circadian rhythms still a mess). I had been nervous about the train station, and for good reason; it was busy with not a lot of information visible. In France, they don’t list the platform for any given train until the last minute. Once I figured that out it was all fine. Better than fine, actually - the trains are smooth, fast, clean, and precisely on time.
    1. The first train had only two other stops before arriving in Bayonne. The countryside along the way was pretty - lots of green farmland. It reminded me of Ohio but flatter.
    2. Bayonne’s train station is unremarkable but this is where it first became apparent that I am just one of many pilgrims starting tomorrow. So many backpacks! So many backpacks (and backsides!) smaller than mine! Here you see all of the backpacks in the overhead bins of the second train.
    3. and 4. The second train took us into the mountains and then Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port with lovely scenery all along the way.
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  • Travel Day 4: Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

    May 17, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    I landed in Saint Jean “at the foot of the Pass” early this afternoon. I’m not sure these photos will convey how very vertical much of this town is. It’s so picturesque! Rather touristy in a French way - I’ve never seen shops that specialize in espadrilles or foie gras before, but here we are. (I indulged in neither!) I’m in a hotel one more night. This introvert is going to find the albergues (hostels) a challenge and I’m waiting one more day.Read more

  • Camino Day 1: SJ to La Vierge d’Orisson

    May 18, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 45 °F

    Miles: 7.25
    Elevation gain: 3182 feet
    Weather: 40s and 50s with a cool breeze at my back. Excellent

    My original plan was to walk to the albergue at Orisson but I was unable to reserve a bed there. At the suggestion of someone on the Camino forum I reserved a spot on a shuttle, which picked me up another 2.5 miles up the mountain and returned me to Saint Jean. I will take the shuttle back to the same spot in the morning and continue on to Roncesvalles tomorrow. Many people walk all the way to Roncesvalles the first day but I thought it wise to start slow. After training in flat OKC this feels like one of my better decisions. Orisson would’ve felt too soon to stop, my feet didn’t hurt until the very end of the walk, and I’m happy to have the steepest climb out of the way before tomorrow.

    I was awake way too early again so I was up and on the trail by 7am. It was an amazing day. The views walking out of Saint Jean are just extravagantly beautiful . I would’ve been slow even if I were more fit, as I kept stopping to take pictures. I took fewer as the walk went on because it wasn’t quite as pretty and I was working too hard!
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  • End Day 1/Beginning Day 2

    May 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 45 °F

    Yesterday’s walk ended with a wait for the shuttle bus back to Saint Jean. I was very cold as it was a bit windy and cold, plus I had sweated and then stopped moving. I was huddled up with my rain poncho on for warmth when another pilgrim joined me to wait. I commented on how cold it was, and she laughed at me. Turns out that Caroline is from Quebec, so she no doubt thought it was balmy! We had another good laugh on the shuttle; the drivers whip up and down the one-lane road, which is next to a sheer drop for much of the route we were on. Caroline muttered, “Please don’t kill me!” I said, “Man, wouldn’t it be something to die after all of that?!” And then we laughed and laughed. Maybe you had to be there! This morning’s commute was even scarier, with a passing situation that had me pretty worried! I guess I’m pretty thoroughly a flat-lander at this point.

    Obviously we didn’t die, and I made it to my gite (hostel), which was really nice. The volunteer host was Oili, a very kind Finnish yoga teacher. I was just exhausted after 3 hours sleep the night before and then the long climb, so I was asleep by 7:00. I did awaken a few times, but I’m pretty sure I got in 10 hours before 6:00 this morning. I feel so much better!

    I shared a dormitory with six other people. Only one of them snored, and he wasn’t too close to me, so it wasn’t too bad. Very cozy. Oili served breakfast and coffee and then led a “Pilgrim Ceremony.” (It was most people’s first day.) This was a mindfulness exercise mixed with a benediction of sorts and ended with a recording of John Denver singing “Sweet, Sweet Surrender.” It was nice. The best part of the morning was cake for breakfast! One of the offerings was a cake I saw in the bakeries, too. Not sure if it was a Basque thing or the tarte de Santiago, but it was delicious.
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  • Day 2: La Vierge to Roncesvalles, part 1

    May 19, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 45 °F

    Miles: 8.5
    Elevation gain: 1,660 feet
    Elevation loss: 2,110 feet
    Weather: cold and windy at the top

    Today started, as the French woman next to me on the shuttle said, with us “walking into the clouds.” I was glad/grateful many times today, most often that it wasn’t raining or snowing. That said, this Oklahoman was pretty cold, especially at the top; with the wind, the relief was exquisite when the trail dipped low enough or in the lee of one of the mountains.

    Speaking of the shuttle, the driver started the car, and the first thing on the stereo was the opening was the first movement of Beethoven 9. That’s a little heavy, right?

    Anyway, up into the fog. The trail switched from the asphalt road to dirt trails fairly early on, and periods of flatness/slight descent were most welcome. I crossed the border into Spain without fanfare, and then climbed some more. I was very happy to reach the top, Col Lepoeder!
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  • Day 2: La Vierge to Roncesvalles, part 2

    May 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    There were two choices of route down from Col Lepoeder. The easier and longer route, or the shorter and much steeper path. I chose the latter because the guidebook told me that it would take me through one of the largest remaining beech forests in Europe. This tree hugger is always going to choose that path! Anyway, the author didn’t lie about the steepness or the forest. That first mile was HARD. Pole set-pole set-baby step-baby step-baby step, repeat. I was so very grateful for those poles and for shoes that fit properly! I managed not to fall even once, which was a concern. It did continue down for the remaining 1.5 miles or so, but it wasn’t nearly as difficult.

    That forest, though!! I’ve wanted to walk through a forest like that my whole life. So beautiful and peaceful. The tree cover is quite dense, so not much growing on the ground. The path was covered in a carpet of squishy leaves at times, which felt nice for my tired feet.

    Although I would’ve liked to have stayed there forever, I was also very happy to arrive at the albergue. It was huge! It’s a former monastery that sleeps hundreds of pilgrims. The army of hospitaleros was very helpful. I showered, washed my clothes, rested, and then ate at the pilgrims’ dinner. I ate at a table with three Belgians, two French people, a German, and a Colombian. They spoke a lot of French but it was fun to watch one of the very expressive Belgian men talk. I watched enviously as the Belgian woman switched between French, English, and Spanish effortlessly. The meal was simple but provided lots of carbohydrates for the next day. I was very pleased to have a vegetarian option.

    I didn’t get a picture of my bed, but it was a lower bunk, thank goodness, one of two bunk beds a cubicle. Lots of cubicles and people on each floor, so more snoring, but my Loop earplugs continue to impress.
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  • Day 3: Roncesvalles to Viscarret-Guerend

    May 20, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 43 °F

    Mileage: 8 miles
    Elevation gain: 699 feet
    Elevation loss: 2479 feet
    Weather: cool and breezy, overcast until the very end

    I am SORE today from the mountains! Quads and calves in particular were not interested in today’s downhill adventures. I had planned a short day, fortunately, and I knew that I couldn’t check in to tonight’s guest house until 1:00, so I took it really slow and enjoyed the views.

    I had breakfast at the albergue. Cake again! I sat next to the same French woman as last night. She’s probably in her 70s and started her Camino in Le Puy, France 36 days ago! Inspiring.

    Today’s walk was bucolic - lots of forest again plus rolling farmland. Another day with a cowbell soundtrack. It was cool enough that I was glad to have my gloves and hood on most of the day, but that really is excellent walking weather!
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  • Day 3 End

    May 20, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    I arrived in Viskarret just in time to check in to my guest house. I was glad to follow my instincts instead of Google, which for some reason wanted to send me down the street to the wrong place. I had my first full conversation in Spanish with my host, and I estimate that I understood 90% of what she said. She was nice about it! As you’ll see here, my private bedroom is lovely, and I’ll be the only one snoring! Not every night’s accommodation will be interesting enough to note, but I have to tell you about my culinary adventure.

    There isn’t much in this village and I don’t think the bar is open for dinner. The guest house has a kitchen with basic tools plus oil, vinegar, and salt. I walked down to the supermercado to find the door locked. A Californian woman found the owner and established that the store was indeed open and we were able to shop. I kind of thought the shop was about to close (this was unclear) so I hurried to make my choices.

    It felt like a Guy Fieri challenge! Time clock running, I couldn’t find a produce section or frozen veggies, no processed food (I didn’t feel like a frozen pizza), and anything I buy I need to be able to eat or carry with me, which eliminates seasonings. What would you cook?

    I grabbed a packet of spaghetti, a can of whole tomatoes, a can of beans, a jar of pepper strips, a bit of cheese, and a baguette and a yogurt for breakfast. The baguettes were in a basket, no little bags, so I then walked back to my guest house carrying a baguette. The cost was just over 10 euros.

    I cooked the spaghetti while I broke down and cooked the tomatoes and added salt plus the rest of the ingredients for a sauce. Only used half the beans and a small amount of the peppers, but hopefully someone can use the rest of the peppers. I can finish the cheese tomorrow. It wasn’t bad! was hungry, though, so most things would’ve tasted good.
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  • Day 4: Viskarret to Larrasoaña

    May 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 48 °F

    Mileage: 10.5
    Elevation gain: 1,217
    Elevation loss: 2,152
    Weather: much warmer, but a lot of shade
    Total Mileage: 34.25
    Another beautiful day! I’m glad I had a room to myself last night as I’m sure I groaned every time I rolled over - still quite sore. I’m feeling stronger, though, and today’s 10+ was easier than yesterday’s 8.
    The first 2 miles ascended today, with more farmland and forest. The middle was more gentle, hill-wise. I stopped at a permanent food truck (“kioska”) around the top of the day’s hike for a sandwich, banana, and a coffee, which gave me a nice boost before a pretty grueling rocky descent. I stopped in the town of Zubiri for another snack and then walked the sunniest last miles to Larrasoaña.

    Since my start and stop points today are in between the guidebook stages, today was mostly solitary, which is excellent for contemplation, and also for pit stops! I do find that I’m talking to myself more; I’ve named my feet and talk to them, too. Hal has some issues but we’re working through it. My overwhelming emotion as I walk is gratitude that I am able to be here doing this amazing thing.
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  • Day 5: Larrasoaña to Pamplona

    May 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Mileage: 10.25
    Elevation gain: 833
    Elevation loss: 1,007
    Weather: beautiful! Partly sunny with a cool breeze
    Total mileage: 44.5

    More beautiful weather and scenery. This won’t always be true, so I am savoring it while I can. I was awake before the roosters (and the snorers in my dormitory!) so I was ready to hit to hit the road at 7 this morning. I didn’t *need* to leave so early, but it was cool and crisp with lovely early morning light, so I was happy to be out. I stopped for cafe con leche and Spanish tortilla for breakfast a few miles in.

    Much less climbing and downhill today, although there was still some! The walk along the wheat field was one of my favorite sections so far. Some of the Pamplona portion wasn’t very pretty, but it’s all still very interesting. I’m in a hotel tonight with a day off tomorrow; both of those things feel odd at this point but very welcome. I was as happy to see the bathtub as I’ve ever been to see an inanimate object. I’m going in search of tapas tonight!
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  • Day 6: Pamplona rest day

    May 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    A little break from the Camino today partly to rest up for tomorrow’s long day up and down a mountain. I was happy to get some extra sleep and see some of the sights.

  • Day 7: Pamplona to Puenta la Reina

    May 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Mileage: 15 miles
    Altitude gain: 1,565
    Altitude loss: 1,824
    Weather: cloudy to start, sunny to finish, with the cool wind miraculously at our backs
    Total mileage: 54.5

    We left Pamplona early (7:00) since it was going to be the longest day yet for me. I’ve been worried for a long time about Alto del Perdon, the mountain in the middle of the stage. The word was that the ascent isn’t too bad, but that the descent is steep, rocky, and tricky. Well, as with many things on this journey so far, I discovered that my worry was outsized. The ascent wasn’t bad at all, and the descent was easier than the one from Col Lepoeder the other day. What a relief! That said, I am very grateful to have not walked down that rocky hill in the rain/mud!

    This was my first full guidebook “stage,” and therefore my longest walk yet. I was thankful for company! Hopefully I’ll get used to this kind of mileage, but this first long day was tough both mentally and physically, and I was glad for the giggling breaks along the way!
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  • Day 8: Puenta la Reina to Villatuerta

    May 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    Mileage: 12 miles
    Elevation gain:
    Elevation loss:
    Weather: mostly cloudy, cool and breezy. So lucky so far, knock wood!
    Total mileage: 66.5 miles

    We enjoyed cafes con leche at our very nice hotel/albergue this morning before hitting the road. More coffees and pastries along the way, of course! Puenta la Reina is a very pretty village, and we enjoyed walking through it. Another day of farmland, trees, and lots of flowers. Each village we walked through was on a hill, which makes sense from a defensive point of view but made for a hilly day! We saw wheat and barley (thanks, Brad!), beans, olives, grapes, baby sunflowers, and tree fruit growing. Tonight we’re staying in a rustic place called Albergue La Casa Mágica, and we’re looking forward to a long day with a climb tomorrow.Read more

  • Day 9: Villatuerta to Los Arcos

    May 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Mileage: 17+ miles, some unintentional!
    Altitude gain: 1.890 feet
    Altitude loss: 1,775 feet
    Weather : gorgeous - a little too sunny and warm for a little while in the afternoon but then the clouds came back and it was perfect. Continued luck!
    Total mileage: 83.5

    A long day! We started with a little detour to get our morning cafe con leche and pastry (a necessary ritual at this point!) and then walked to Estella. On the outskirts of Estella we enjoyed the wine fountain (!) at Irache before some ascending hiking through a scrubby forest. Lots more farmland after that until we finally arrived in Los Arcos. We have decided that the best meals are enjoyed by the side of the trail.
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  • Day 10: Los Arcos to Viana

    May 27, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    Mileage: 13 miles? Guidebook says about 12, Garmin says 14
    Elevation gain: 1,401
    Elevation loss: 1,230
    Total mileage: 96.5

    I wasn’t sure that my feet would ever function again at the end of yesterday’s walk, but somehow they felt pretty good this morning. A beautiful sunny, cool morning turned into a warm sunny afternoon as we continued to walk up and down the hills. The scenery continues to amaze. We’re starting to recognize quite a few fellow pilgrims who seem to be on the same schedule as us. Tonight we’re in an albergue (hostel) with many people. I think the earplugs will come in handy again!Read more

  • Day 11: Viana to Navarrete

    May 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 63 °F

    Mileage: 14.75
    Altitude gain: 1,109
    Altitude loss: 915
    Weather: mostly warm and sunny. A few drops at one point, and it thundered nearby once we got to Navarrete, but overall great.
    Total mileage: 111.25

    We left Viana in another crisp morning. We spent a good chunk of the morning walking through the city of Logroño. It was mostly just very city-like but we walked through a great park as we left the city - tons of trails, picnic areas, a fishing pond. Lots of people out enjoying their Sundays!

    We climbed into Navarette (again with lots of hills today) and arrived at our destination at 3. We stood there stupidly for a while because we couldn’t find our hostel. A nice local stopped to ask if he could help, and when we showed him the hostel name, he said, “Oh, that’s been closed for seven years!” There is a bar and restaurant right where we thought it should be, and this man went in to ask. It turns out that the owners, who are Romanian, just opened last week! We had a good laugh about the adventure. We’re in a room over the restaurant, where we had a really nice if rich dinner.
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  • Day 12: Navarette to Nájera

    May 29, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Mileage: 10.5 miles or so
    Elevation gain: 722
    Elevation loss: 791
    Weather: beautiful and sunny until we were already in Nájera, when it rained pretty hard for a little while
    Total mileage: 121.75

    Today’s walk of under 11 miles and not too much climbing felt almost like a day off! I’m also figuring out how to help my feet feel better, which is a relief.

    We were expecting rain today, but clear skies met us on our leisurely 8:00 start. There was a bakery next to our lodging but they didn’t have coffee!! We had a couple of nice breaks today and the first one included cafes con leche, so it worked out.

    Even with the leisurely start we arrived in Nàjera relatively early, so we enjoyed some treats and actually did a little shopping! Nothing exciting - I’m going to try some new socks and we had run out of chocolate. Another great day.
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  • D13: Nájera-Santo Domingo de la Calzada

    May 30, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    Mileage: 14.25 long, hot miles
    Elevation gain: 1,355 feet
    Elevation loss: 804 feet
    Weather: cool and sunny to begin, hot and sunny later with little breeze
    Total mileage: 136

    Today was another difficult but beautiful and joyful day. We had coffee and I ate a little before we left Nájera. Once we left the city it was a day of beautiful rolling fields of wheat and vineyards with mountains in the distance. We did encounter some very messy mud on the trail, and I was VERY grateful that we’ve had such great weather overall. We stopped to rest twice - once at Azofra for a breakfast feast at a cafe and then again at the top of a very long steep hill, where an enterprising young man had sodas, fruit, and other snacks available. Most welcome! We crave fruit but of course it’s heavy to carry it with us. We were very happy to arrive in Santo Domingo in the afternoon.Read more

  • Day 13 end: Santo Domingo

    May 31, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Santo Domingo de la Calzada is picturesque enough to warrant its own post here. So much history! The food wasn’t great (at least where we ate) but when you’ve walked over a half marathon you don’t care as much!

    There is a network of paradores in Spain - luxury hotels in historical buildings. I’d wanted to stay in one at least once and we did in Santo Domingo. It was amazing! A beautiful old building and the room had a bathtub and especially luxurious sheets - it felt like heaven!
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