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Camino de Santiago 2023/2025

maio 2023 - agosto 2025
  • Kate Pritchett
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Uma 814aventura de um dia na Kate Leia mais
  • Kate Pritchett
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  • Espanha Espanha
  • França França
  • Estados Unidos Estados Unidos
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Amizade, Caminhada, Autodescobrimento, Viagem desacompanhado, Espiritualidade
  • 5,9kmilhas percorridas
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  • 55pegadas
  • 783dias
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  • 562curtidas
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  • Kate PritchettViajanteCamino de Santiago 2023/2025

    Day 28: San Martín to Astorga

    14 de junho de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    Mileage: 16 miles
    Altitude gain and loss: Garmin is still withholding this information. Rolling hills today after midday.
    Weather: glorious. Cool and sunny morning, warm and sunny afternoon
    Total mileage: 331.5 miles

    So today definitely made up for yesterday! The trail started along the highway, but even the side of the highway was better than yesterday’s version. Then after four miles or so the trail veered into the countryside. Such a beautiful day. Several villages along the way provided sustenance and restrooms.

    I officially left the meseta today (I had that wrong the other day) so there was a little climbing today, and tomorrow will ascend all day. The views once that started were just beautiful. I took something like 150 pics today! I’ll have to do a separate post or two for Astorga.

    1. The path this morning. Amongst my goals was to avoid stepping on a snail or slug.
    2. The Rio Abrigo in Hospital del Abrigo
    3. - 8. Views of the day. I could’ve arrived in Astorga 30 minutes earlier if I hadn’t stopped to take pictures so often! I realized that sometimes I’m stopping to snap because I’m so happy in that moment, and I’m trying to capture *that.* This is as impossible as doing any justice to the views, but I’ll keep trying. Ya gotta try!
    9. The poppies are back! There weren’t nearly as many of them over the past few days.
    10. The view down into San Justo de la Vega and, further away, Astorga. You can see the cathedral in Astorga if you zoom in on the left.    Leia mais

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  • Kate PritchettViajanteCamino de Santiago 2023/2025

    Day 27: León to San Martín del Camino

    13 de junho de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Mileage: 15.5 miles
    Altitude gain and loss: Garmin says 0 feet. Not sure about that, but it was relatively flat.
    Weather: cool and cloudy for most of the day with some sunny moments and a couple of small rain squalls
    Total mileage: 315.5

    It was a day of lessons, and you know those aren’t always the most fun times. I somehow missed that there’s an alternate route that *doesn’t* follow a highway through this stage and part of tomorrow’s. I had already made a reservation for this route and went ahead with that plan. Today’s route took me out of León, through industrial areas outside of the city, and then into the country, but next to a busy highway. That said, the weather was almost perfect, and I had lots of time to reflect on the takeaway lessons here. I also met a New Yorker named Joe who also went to UNT. What are the odds of that?

    There were some pretty moments, and the mountains are getting closer!

    1. Sculpture of a pilgrim in León. I can relate to this guy!
    2. and 3. From the front of the famous (and very posh) parador hotel in León. (If you’ve seen the movie, this is the one they stay in.) I can just imagine the faculty meeting that’s taking place in 3.
    4. Small church on the outskirts of León
    5. and 6. For some reason there were a lot of structures built into the sides of hills today. Maybe I missed that I was in the Shire?
    7. The Basílica de la Virgen del Camino. Cool to see a more modern take
    8. Another church with requisite bells and storks in Valverde de la Virgen
    9. Apples? Crabapples? The apples for sale in the stores here are SO good.
    10. The walk did get prettier at the end of the day with green fields (corn, I think?) along the way. You can just barely see the mountains at the horizon if you zoom in.    Leia mais

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  • Kate PritchettViajanteCamino de Santiago 2023/2025

    Day 26: Catedral de León

    12 de junho de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    This is one of those places where a camera and words are inadequate, but here are my attempts.

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  • Kate PritchettViajanteCamino de Santiago 2023/2025

    Day 26: León rest day

    12 de junho de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    I should’ve turned on my Garmin today; I know I logged at least a few miles running errands and sightseeing. I also rested and saw a physical therapist, who massaged my feet and my extremely tight lower legs, so I will hopefully feel better in the coming days. I still didn’t see everything there is to see here; this would be a great place to spend a few days. Here are a few sights, though.

    1. Basílica de San Isidro. I wish I’d had time to see the inside!
    2. Random street, although many of them look something like this in this old part of the city.
    3. This is Alfonso IX, who reigned here in the 12th century. Sassy.
    4. and 5. My Spanish skills and Google were confounded by the signage, but I think these are Roman walls? Old, anyway. I love all of the different layers of stones in 4.
    6. I’ve seen quite a bit of this kind of stone mosaic inlaid in pavement. This particular one made it look like there’s a rug spread across an intersection.
    7. The Gaudi—designed Casa Botines. Not as interesting inside.
    8. Random building, but I have seen a lot of rounded details in the architecture here.    Leia mais

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  • Kate PritchettViajanteCamino de Santiago 2023/2025

    Day 25: Mansilla to León, part 2

    11 de junho de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    León is a big city, and even on a Sunday there’s a lot to see. I made a wrong turn early on and ended up seeing some extra!

    I just can’t seem to get used to the meal schedule here, with everything closed in the afternoon and dinner not starting until late, so I was a bit out of sorts when I finally arrived and tried to find food. It eventually worked out with a supermarket providing a simple lunch/dinner and then a gelato cone this evening.

    I’m taking a rest day here tomorrow, so I’ll have more to post, but here are some initial views from León.

    1. The León bull arena. Right after this I stumbled on a flea market; these apparently look about the same in Spain as in the US.
    2. I had a nice rest and snack in a shady park with this fountain. The huge mouth on the fish and the weird cavorting dudes at the bottom crack me up.
    3. I also stumbled on this right before I got to my hotel. I didn’t manage to catch a video, unfortunately. Very slow, very bugle-heavy. I have no idea what it was for. Four little girls in white dresses leading the parade.
    4. Detail from the front of the Casa Botines, which was designed by Gaudi. I’ll get more pics of that tomorrow.
    5. My hotel is quite nice. View from the lobby.
    6. I don’t think you can fully understand how happy this made me. I’ve already taken two baths.
    7.-10. The Catedral de León. Not as breathtaking as the Burgos cathedral but still stunning. I’ll go inside tomorrow.    Leia mais

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  • Kate PritchettViajanteCamino de Santiago 2023/2025
    1

    Day 25: Mansilla to León, part 1

    11 de junho de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    Mileage: 13 miles
    Altitude gain: 492 feet
    Altitude loss: 354 feet
    Weather: cool, partly cloudy, perfect
    Total mileage: 300 miles!

    I awoke to a sleepy Sunday morning village, so I headed out without breakfast. The guidebook suggested I consider taking a bus and skipping a hard and potentially dangerous day along the highway, but I was pleasantly surprised. There was some walking along the highway, but most of it wasn’t on the shoulder (which is what I had imagined). Also, I accidentally ended up doing this walk on a Sunday, so the traffic was very light.

    Today was the last day on the meseta, so accordingly there were lots of fields until the outskirts of León. The last two weeks will be more varied in scenery but I’ll have to prepare myself for mountains again!

    1. The old wall around Mansilla
    2. and 3. Very peaceful beginning to the day
    4. I love these sweet morning faces
    5. Camino art
    6. Medieval bridge over the Río Esla
    7. and 8. I’ll kind of miss the fields!
    9. Early view of León. If you zoom in you can see the cathedral on the far right.
    10. The Río Torío at the edge of León    Leia mais

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  • Kate PritchettViajanteCamino de Santiago 2023/2025
    1

    D24: El Burgo Ranero-Mansilla delas Mula

    10 de junho de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    Mileage: 12 miles
    Altitude gain: 171 feet
    Altitude loss: 502 feet
    Weather: cool, partly cloudy, and breezy. Pretty much perfect
    Total mileage: 287 miles

    I slept well in the room I ended up having to myself at the albergue. I stopped at the restaurant where I had dinner last night (veggie burger!) and had apple tart and a coffee before heading out. Another meseta day - many miles of the same scenery, but lovely weather and a flat trail made it a relatively easy day.

    I had a nice conversation with a Spanish man and when I told him I didn’t have a reservation tonight, he indicated worry for me. I *hadn’t* been worried about it before then, but then I started, and made a hotel reservation from the trail. (It probably would’ve been fine!) By the way, after our conversation, this man came back to ask me where I was from, and when I told him the US, he complimented my Spanish. !!

    The hotel is across the street from a park where children have played futbol all afternoon. It’s nice to see kids! Not all of the villages seem to have this sort of vitality. A quiet but nice day.

    1. The trail has had regularly spaced sycamore trees alongside it starting late yesterday and then throughout much of today. Counting them would’ve been quite the meditation exercise! The trees outside of El Burgo Ranero were dressed up.
    2. and 3. Most of today looked like this.
    4. There was sometimes an obviously planned forest between fields. I thought of them as “Dance Break!” Lovely to sit amongst the trees on my morning break.
    5. This guy was going backwards with his pack. Don’t know his story but it made for some nice variety. That dog was all business.
    6. and 7. The scenery got a bit more varied in the last few miles.
    8. Since I couldn’t check in to my hotel when I arrived, this is what I did. No regrets.
    9. I love this kind of detail in the villages. This is on a door of a rather dilapidated building that’s for sale.
    10. In Mansilla de las Mulas    Leia mais

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  • Kate PritchettViajanteCamino de Santiago 2023/2025
    1

    Day 23: Sahagùn to El Burgo Ranero

    9 de junho de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Mileage: 11.25 miles
    Altitude gain: 433 feet
    Altitude loss: 292 feet
    Weather: cool, cloudy, windy, and once again rainy after I arrived at my destination
    Total mileage: 275 miles

    Doesn’t El Burgo Ranero sound like a Spanish fusion restaurant in Texas?

    Another austere day on the meseta, made even more so with the almost fall-like weather. (I am NOT complaining about the weather, as anything is better than 90+ degrees!) Once again I was glad to have split up guidebook stages to have shorter stages, and I’m seeing some of the same people every day, so I’m not the only one. Not as much of interest to report today, but overall it was a good day on the Camino, and I’m happy to be resting at my albergue.

    1. Arco San Benito in Sahagún
    2. Puente Canto on the way out of Sahagún
    3. Ria Cea from the bridge
    4. The path out of Sahagún was quite lovely
    5. Most of today was next to a highway
    6. I’ve seen a lot of this kind of construction in villages today. Makes our lath and plaster house look new-fangled!
    7. Grain field with ominous clouds
    8. Quite a few cyclists today.
    9. I didn’t know where I would stay tonight until I got here, but this albergue is a little oasis!
    10. Storks? in their huge nests on the steeple, which is common.    Leia mais

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  • Kate PritchettViajanteCamino de Santiago 2023/2025
    131

    Day 22: Calzadilla to Sahagún, part 2

    9 de junho de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    I couldn’t stop taking pics today! Here are some from later in the day.

    1. More jazz hands!
    2. I crossed over from Palencia into the province of Léon today.
    3. The Ermita de la Virgen del Puente from the pretty bridge of the name.
    4. Near the Ermita
    5. and 6. More fields leading into the city
    7. Brilliant marketing/location for this business!
    8. Detail from the Santuario de la Virgen Peregrina.
    9. I was VERY relieved to release I narrowly avoided being here for a bull festival this weekend. It explained all of the Corral fencing along the streets I’d seen here.
    10. Mural showing Alfonso VI (“the brave”) in Sahagún    Leia mais

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  • Kate PritchettViajanteCamino de Santiago 2023/2025
    111

    Day 22: Calzadilla to Sahagún, part 1

    8 de junho de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Mileage: 14 miles
    Altitude gain: 571 feet
    Altitude loss: 689 feet
    Weather: Cloudy but nice; rainy in Sahagún
    Total mileage: 263.75 miles

    Such a beautiful day! So much better than yesterday. I was awake early and on the road by 7:00. Snoring story: I shared a room with four other people, including a mother, father, and grown daughter from the south of England. The mother and daughter each warned me about dad’s snoring; I assured them I have earplugs. Well, I told them in the morning that it was nothing compared to the woman that Angela and I heard in Belorado!

    I stopped for breakfast in Ledigos, which was unremarkable aside from the panhandling cat who jumped into my lap looking for food. I talked to some other pilgrims today, including three American women and a teacher from South Africa walking with her daughter. Lunch was a delicious veggie burger in San Nicolás del Real Camino.
    I arrived in Sahagún at about 1:30 with no reservation but walked up to a little pension/hotel at the right time to get a room with private bathroom, which is quite the luxury at this point.
    Sahagún considers itself the halfway point for pilgrims who start in Saint Jean, and one can acquire a “halfway compostela” at the Santuario de la Virgen Peregrina, a former church/museum. I walked over there in the rain for that, bought some supplies at a grocery store, and had some dinner with another American staying at my hotel. I also talked with two Dutch men who have bicycled here from home. Wow.

    1. I wish this photo better showed how huge these roses were. This appears to be the ideal climate for roses - they’re all over the place, covered in blooms, even those in places that seem unlikely to receive much TLC.
    2. and 3. Lovely early morning light and bird concerts this morning.
    4. So many “jazz hands” bushes, as Angela and I dubbed them, along the path today. Very cheering.
    5. Near Ledigos. Barn?
    6. More grain fields all along the way today
    7. Hobbit holes!
    8. and 9. Besides the hobbit holes, the village of Moratinos had a lot of interesting features, including this door and a plaza festooned with knitted flags and tree cozies.
    10. I don’t get tired of these views.    Leia mais

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