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One More Camino in Spain 2023One More Camino in Spain 2023
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  • RejsendeOne More Camino in Spain 2023
    2
    13
    Dag 21

    Puente la Reina, a fabulous walk!

    17. april 2023, Spanien ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    We made it! Wonderful weather, and about 23 kms. We took it easy, had quite a few breaks and refreshments, and feel amazingly good…speaking for myself!…but it took quite a long time - we set off at about 8.30, in 6° temperature, and arrived here after 4.30 in what felt like over 20°, having shed several layers!

    But it was amazing…not a cloud in the sky, and leaving Pamplona and looking back as we climbed up the surrounding hills, and walking through the countryside was spectacular. Our dreams of seeing green fields of waving crops were met! Not sure if it is wheat, barley or rye, but it was rippling in the wind, and interspersed were the fields of yellow rapeseed. We worked hard, and are staying in a hotel where we were twice before…very familiar and comforting, and it is the first building you come to as you walk into town, so we have made ourselves at home, not venturing out until we leave tomorrow over the famous bridge. The wifi is very weak (also remembered) and when I publish this I will use Amr’s hotspot…always handy when wifi is bad.

    It is 8.30 and now back from dinner and showered, and still sunny outside…so absolutely no pressure to arrive before dark! The highest climb today was towards the end where there are the statues of pilgrims… the Alto de Perdon ..VERY windy today, though sunny - we ate our lunch on the non windy side of a column, but still windy. Magnificent views from up there. That high point is towards the end, and you feel you are almost finished and then it drags on and on through 2 more small towns…I will put up photos which won’t give the scope and depth of the views, but you can get an idea, and a video of the waving green fields!    Læs mere

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  • RejsendeOne More Camino in Spain 2023
    1
    Dag 22

    Estella - another beautiful day!

    18. april 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    We have walked another 23 kms! We have it down to a fine art, and stop and have breaks, smell the roses, and arrive not too worn out. It was quite a hard walk - I sort of remembered from before, but every 5 years it seems to get even harder! There was a lot of up and down - up to the hilltop towns, then down to the rivers…and walking in to Estella is a long slow process - you know it’s only about 2 kms, but there is no sight of civilisation - it only appears at the last minute, tucked in the valley. A lovely little town, but the camino really just passes one end. Our hotel, where we have now stayed 3 times, is at the other end, about a km off the camino, so we get to see inside and enjoy it. We had a beer in the main square on our way in, as once at the hotel we knew we wouldn’t be leaving. It’s a great hotel, in a not great part of town opposite a brickworks, though from our room we have a lovely view of the surrounding mountains. And it has a coin operated laundry so Amr is officiating and has put a load on!

    So our walk today was again through beautiful countryside - more and more of the grain crops (I asked some Spanish walkers what it was and they just said “cereal” and when I said wheat they said yes, but I am not sure). But there are still the very decorative rapeseed fields, and lots of broad beans! Amr has an app which tries to identify flora, and I was so happy to have it confirmed that they were indeed fava bean plants which I remember from my childhood!

    We left Puente la Reina this morning over the famous puente, and it was quite cold - about 6° - but we didn’t take fleeces, and were soon taking off another layer…it gets quite hot, especially when walking, but deliciously gets cool again as the sun goes down. Looking at the forecast it will be hotter in the next few days, even in upper 20s…hope we’ve moved past that by then! Maybe our fleeces will be packed away for the rest of the trip?
    Now back from dinner..pilgrim menu, cheap (€14.50 including wine) and delicious - Amr had highlight, pork knuckle…and I wore my tevas without socks!!    Læs mere

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  • RejsendeOne More Camino in Spain 2023
    1
    Dag 23

    A calm walk to Los Arcos

    19. april 2023, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    Yet another beautiful day…and this time not many ups and downs, just one out of Estella, and one up to Villamayor de Monjardín, otherwise just even walks through these never ending green fields that we have been so wanting to see! Again it was cold, about 6° when we left, and took longer to shed another layer as there were many shaded areas, and also a lovely breeze. But it did get hot by the end, and I realise I have totally misjudged the strength of the sun…I had thought it is early spring, and it is even snowing a bit…but of course the longest day is June, and I have got sunburnt hands and legs, and even lips…I keep using lip balm but it doesn’t have sunscreen in it…I will have a visit to a Farmacia in Logroño and get some strong (and up to date!) sunscreen…

    So today was 22 kms according to Amr’s watch…mine was a bit less (21)…but less demanding, and through such gorgeous countryside…it is the day when leaving Estella we pass the Fuente del Vino where you can get vino (and agua) from the fountain at a monastery winery…not maybe the thing at 8.30am, but you have a sip to set you on your way! Even taking it fairly leisurely we arrived at Los Arcos at about 3 o’clock…so much quicker without hills. Found our hotel (we stayed here last time) and the bags were even in our room! Luxury! Then went to the plaza to have a beer, and found many others there and had a lovely unwind.

    Back to the hotel for downtime before dinner. Our hotel’s restaurant is closed at the moment, and he had directed us to a restaurant across the road. When we investigated at 3.30 it was all very quiet, except the bar, and I wondered if people would be out for dinner, as in the plaza everyone was snacking…so when we wandered over to the restaurant at 7.15 I wondered if we would be dining there alone…well we got there and it was full! We were told to wait, but a lone American saw our predicament and invited us to his table, so we got in…so much for dining alone!! The American was Eddie from San Francisco and was good company…he was the person who took our photo together at the Fuente de Vino in the morning, and we had a good dinner together. (Again €14 for 3 courses, wine and bread). I wanted to have the rabbit, but it had finished sadly…but had a delicious veal stew, starting with the bean soup…Amr had a trout. And we both ended with arroz con leche …yum…

    It is very good..the camaraderie is still there…we are getting to know people, and we all greet each other very comfortably..from many countries. We will lose Eddie probably as he is going straight on from Logroño where we arrive on Friday. There is an Austrian who we meet and greet..he always knows us and calls us Australia and Egypt, and we call him Austria…one day we will find out his name! I am glad the Camino warmth and support continues.    Læs mere

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  • RejsendeOne More Camino in Spain 2023
    1
    13
    Dag 24

    Now at Viana

    20. april 2023, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Today was a shorter walk, actually 18.7 kms, and we started thinking it would be a breeze. But soon found out that it was full of many ups and downs - to the rivers, and then up the hill on the other side. Still stunning scenery and lovely towns to walk through. But every view in every direction has mountains in the background, so I guess we can’t expect anything but hilly walks for the moment! But tomorrow IS easy…it is just 9.5 kms into Logroño where we have a rest day on Saturday, and again I think we’ll take it very easy…! It is predicted to be a bit rainy on Saturday and that is just fine! It’s funny how our memories of the walks seem to blot out the hard bits (or we are just older!).

    By asking people, and using apps and Google we are confident that the main grain crops are wheat and barley. Apple photos offers to identify so I did a close up of one which suggested barley, and Amr’s app identified the other one as wheat…Today we saw some sheep for the first time round here. They were being herded (just by a shepherd, no dogs) down the hill and across the road, right across our path.

    We stopped many times for breaks and cooling - it gets very hot climbing the hills, despite the chilly early start. Surprisingly I think this camino May end up being hotter than September/October when it gradually gets cooler. I think on the meseta and when we finish at the end of May it may be very hot. But at least the meseta has no big climbs!!

    We continue to marvel at the contrast of the seasons…I looked up photos of today’s walk in 2018 in autumn, and the same view of vineyards and olive groves was so different - the vineyards at the moment are brown with dead looking branches just starting to think about sprouting leaves, whereas in autumn they are all green and laden with grapes soon to be harvested, and the surrounding grain fields are now green and in 2018 were brown stubble! Amazing comparing the exact same view! Both beautiful.

    Another funny thing happened when we were having a break at a little shrine where there was shade and a nice wall to sit on…there were a few assorted people that we had seen off and on during the walk…and a little Japanese woman came up to me and said “I am 80, and do you mind me asking how old you are”…so of course I said I was 80 too, and she hugged me and we agreed we were probably the oldest people on the camino - she had thought she was the oldest person and had to share the fame!! It was quite a moment…she is staying at Viana too..we said we’d have a wine, but haven’t seen her again yet.

    We were so hot when we walked in - I still have a bright red face, and probably will till I wake up in the morning! - and we stopped for a beer before even checking in at the hotel. This is one of the special hotels..we have been here twice before..a lovely old palacio building, and right on the camino. Beautiful room, but the wifi only works in the foyer - but a very pleasant and comfortable place to sit - where I am now.

    …Now back from dinner, and have to add that it was rather fun. This hotel has a formal almost fine dining room where we have eaten before, but also there is the cafeteria bar place which also does dinners, and was where we chose to eat…with their €15 dinner. Delicious - I had peppers stuffed with cod, and then chiperones…2 of my faves. But when we were starting, in wandered the 80 yr old Japanese woman, and then a young French Canadian girl we had been talking to on and off today and they both joined us (we were a course ahead)…both staying at the hotel. A good conversation…    Læs mere

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  • RejsendeOne More Camino in Spain 2023
    11
    Dag 25

    A leisurely stroll to Logroño

    21. april 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    We really did have an easy day today! It was about 9.5 kms, and no hills to climb. We left around 10 so we wouldn’t be too early to check in to the hotel, or to be before the bags arrived. And we did saunter, and stop now and then to admire the view, and sat on a shaded seat to eat some bread, ham and cheese at about 12. It is all very familiar, and a very comfortable feeling to walk on the stone bridge over the Ebro river, and right in front of us is our hotel. We have stayed here twice before and are here for 2 nights.

    Although only one o’clock our room was ready and bags here…all perfect! So Amr did his thing and collected all the dirty clothes and took them to the laundromat!! He is very perfect for that. And we have lazed round this afternoon…walked round the streets of the old historic centre, found the little streets where they have excellent bars and tapas, sat in the plaza del Mercado for a drink, and another bar for coffee, ColaCao and croquetas, and have had a lovely afternoon.

    We are now in the Rioja - no longer in Navarra and Basque country - so the signs are now in Spanish only and not as many words with X that look unpronounceable! We will go out to eat fairly late as that is when things liven up. In the afternoon it is always a bit sleepy during siesta time, though always people sitting in bars chatting. Pilgrims visible here, but it is a city with normal people living their lives here, so we probably won’t run into many people we know. Tomorrow we will probably have a bit of a walk along the river for a little activity, but otherwise sit in a park and read etc…it may rain but it won’t matter.

    Just have to add that we strolled out at about 8 and it was a different place…all the tapas bars were open and buzzing, in the streets people - old, babies and all in between were out…we found our favourite place and were just in time to get stools and have our favourite chiperones a la plancha and pimientos de padron…bliss, and 2 glasses of excellent Rioja red…as we came back, via an ice cream stop, everything was buzzing even more…we learn that after a drink and snack they go home for dinner but I can’t imagine having dinner at 10…but guess it’s true…so good!    Læs mere

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  • RejsendeOne More Camino in Spain 2023
    12
    Dag 26

    Saturday in Logroño

    22. april 2023, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    A quiet and pleasant day. Had a late and luxurious breakfast, though I waited to have coffee later at a cafe, as the machine had bad coffee according to Amr…so I hit the chocolate button instead…Amr had a walk first as it was drizzling a bit, and I was happy to play on my iPad, but it soon fined up and we ventured out together. All was fairly quiet for a Saturday morning we thought. People out having breakfast, but empty streets…bought chorizo at the market (who had prize for best chorizo in 2022), we stopped at a cafe that did churros, very nice - and again I didn’t have coffee as they make the lovely thick chocolate to dip churros in..yum. Bought a large tube of sunscreen for the future sunny days walking!

    On our second venture out we walked along the river, so pretty, and spring has sprung quite a lot earlier than our past towns…some of the trees look in full leaf, and the heavily pruned trees in parks and along streets, are starting to sprout branches and leaves and look pretty again. Also, across from our hotel window we have noticed several stork nests on the roof of the building opposite, with storks busily collecting sticks…they are very large, and can see at least 5 different nests.

    On the way back from the river walk we stopped for a coffee finally, and came across the Museo de la Rioja, so we stopped to look and it was so interesting…from Stone Age to now…and very well presented….and as always, evidence of a Roman presence…Never been there in our other visits….

    By then beautifully sunny, and we had a kindle session on a bench by the river, Amr had a jacuzzi, and we are off to seek food soon. By afternoon of course the streets were bustling, people and families everywhere, the tapas bars crowded and throbbing…and by evening I think it will be chaos…nice chaos!

    Well we set off at about 7, and found the tapas street which had been impossible to walk through in early afternoon with the crowds was all closed…there were people hanging round, maybe waiting for opening time..but we went to the square and had a quiet drink, watching the passegiata of people - families, children, elderly, youth - sometimes dressed up (? Stag nights, or hens nights)…and then went back to our tapas bar and all was open and vibrant again…decided it was simpler to stay there..we managed to get seats…and had delicious food and wine, and found ourselves home soon after 9, long before the Spanish dinner time…but we are walkers and pilgrims, and time to call it a day!    Læs mere

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  • RejsendeOne More Camino in Spain 2023
    21
    Dag 27

    Another easy walk

    23. april 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    We are now at Navarrete after an easy 13 km walk. This is a lovely little town on a hill surrounded with vineyards and the rich red Rioja soil. We walked quite slowly so as not to be too early, arrived at about 12.30, stopped for coffee and also for fresh OJ before checking in and room ready, bags here, and we have settled in!

    It was a perfect temperature for walking, coolish and quite a lot of cloud cover. It actually feels cold now, and I am wearing a fleece that I thought would never be worn again once we left the Pyrenees…weather app says 19° but it is wrong! It has now become a little drizzly, but doesn’t matter, and tomorrow should be dry and still cooler for our 17 km walk to Nájera. We walked out through the outer suburbs of Logroño- you realise it’s quite a bit city and not just the historical centre - and through a big park and bird sanctuary…very pleasant. And also passed the big bull structure high on a hill that is equivalent maybe to our big banana …. you can see it for miles in all directions…anyway, a very good and easy walk…our hotel has a pilgrim menu for dinner so all is well.    Læs mere

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  • RejsendeOne More Camino in Spain 2023
    12
    Dag 28

    Now at Nájera

    24. april 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Another really pleasant walk…cloud cover and breeze, so not too hot, patches of blue and sun, but not blazing…perfect really, and we walked the 16.8 kms through more picture postcard scenery of vineyards, olive groves and some grain fields - but predominantly vineyards. We left between 8.30 and 9, and got here at about 2, stopping at Ventosa for a coffee/ColaCao break…and a lunch break at a well placed park for pilgrims with trees and benches just before arriving at Nájera. The walk in to town is always rather dreary - through an industrial area and not the best end of town, then you arrive at the river and the bridge and it is all lovely…the old charming part. We are staying at the same hotel as twice before, so all very familiar.

    We stopped to have a beer and a snack of croquettas on arrival, before checking into the hotel. Quite a few walkers there, and an amazing thing happened. Two women arrived, and asked if we were Australians from Sydney, and they turned out to be a cousin of Cathy’s husband Pete Sertori and her friend Angela!! We had in fact heard that they were on the camino, probably catching up to us, from another cousin Margaret Moore, who has walked the camino and we have had lovely camino bonding sessions…but how amazing to actually meet up!! Margaret had sent us both photos of each other, but I think I could have sat at the same bar and not noticed…but Amr looked, and Susan looked at us and wondered…and it all clicked!anyway, very good. We are meeting up for a pre dinner drink in a little while, though also had an end of walk relax for a bit too. They had arrived not long after us, and had walked from Logroño….almost 30 kms…leaving in the dark at 6.30…too much to enjoy it…they plan to get a bus across the meseta I think, as they have a schedule for the flight home! Better to bus and then truly enjoy the walking I think.

    So now we are settled into our room, relaxing, reading, doing words etc…the Spanish double rooms often consist of 2 beds pushed together, but each with its own set of sheets and covers…all gets very tangled when you untuck them (I like everything loose)…but all part of the tapestry…at least we get to have our own pillow this way!!..our room today is actually a triple, with an extra bed…

    Soon we will hit the town and look for a good place to eat tonight. Last night’s dinner was fun, at the hotel which had a restaurant and probably one of the few places available on a Sunday night…many walkers there - a couple from Luxembourg, a couple from England, a Belgian and an American…the waiter was from Argentina. I had a veg soup that was virtually delicious cooked veges with a very little liquid…and then roast chicken (they have a way of making it taste so good)…comfort food! Amr had salad and hake…I wonder what tonight will bring.

    After these 2 easy days we have 4 more all over 20 kms. Shouldn’t be too much, we are well in stride now, and don’t let ourselves get tired. The longest will be the walk into Burgos on Friday..about 26 kms I think, but Burgos is lovely and we have a rest day there.

    Well now back from dinner…fun again. First we met up with Susan and Angela, and a group of other walkers from many countries, great to chat and also goodbye as they will all be ahead of us tomorrow. Then we left the young (about 60 yr olds!) as we had found a good place for dinner and wanted to get there before it was full…we did the right thing…empty when we arrived, but soon people arrived and more people turned away…good dinner, and the English couple from last night there at a nearby table and another Australian woman we hadn’t seen before…bit of a loner and really nice. Amr had a beautiful fish that he saw being taken into the kitchen, and I had stuffed peppers..all good…    Læs mere

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  • RejsendeOne More Camino in Spain 2023
    11
    Dag 29

    Santo Domingo de la Calzada

    25. april 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Amr says that today has been the most spectacular walk so far…and it certainly was beautiful…wide open spaces with sweeping fields dazzlingly green! We are still in the Rioja, but less vineyards as the day wore on and more grain fields, and also beans and peas. It was 21 kms…we left about 8.45 and got here at 3, as usual taking our time with breaks and taking the hills slowly. Cool, about 10° in the morning rising to 23 or so in the afternoon…and a good breeze to fan us so never unbearably hot! And in the evening it cools off, and people put on jackets…on the TV we saw weather reports of extreme heat round here…well, as always, I think they are pushing the idea of climate problems…(won’t rant!)…

    So we left Nájera, climbing out of the huge red rock cliffs that the town is built up to…and then across the gorgeous fields, still many vineyards, and mountains (?hills) in the background. Then we moved into the more wide open spaces where you can see the path of the camino stretching out for miles ahead of you…very spectacular, and one particular view, which often appears on the covers of camino books, we saw in a completely different aspect in spring…we are so ecstatic that we are here now to see the spring growth…and our hotel here, where we stayed twice before in a tree-lined street, is now lined with tree trunks starting to sprout.

    We remembered it was Anzac Day and were reminded by the many red poppies growing along the paths..lovely wild flowers everywhere. After unwinding on arrival we walked around this lovely town. We visited the cathedral…pilgrims get reduced admission…and it is beautiful and has the famous gothic hen house. Our admission also included the bell tower and we actually climbed it!!! It was worth it, magnificent view from the top, and we were prepared for the bells donging at 6.15, but fortunately only one bell did one ding! We were up there surrounded by bells!    Læs mere

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  • RejsendeOne More Camino in Spain 2023
    1
    Dag 30

    22 kms to Belorado

    26. april 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Today’s walk wasn’t quite as perfect as yesterday because much of the path was alongside a big main road (the N-120 which snakes near us all the way to Santiago) and our serenity was interrupted by the roaring past of big trucks…but the scenery remained beautiful, fields of grain, peas and rapeseed. We compared photos of 5 years ago in September and still can’t get over the contrast - so beautiful now with all the green, and we didn’t think it was dreary and dull then when we knew no different! There are still fields that are being ploughed and I wonder if they are preparing to plant sunflower seeds, because the September photos do show fields of sunflowers here - the bright spots amongst the stubble.

    It was hot, and we both shed layers and ended up with just one shirt…and it was much cooler…and I covered my arms and legs and neck with the expensive sunscreen we bought in Logroño! We walked from La Rioja into Castilla y León today which marks our progress!! And I looked at the photo of us at that point in 2018 and I was wearing the same shorts, shirt and hat!! Now at the hotel of twice before, basic and nice. Except we are on the second floor and had to lug the bags up 2 flights of stairs…!

    Just back from having a beer with an English couple we had met on and off for a few days, very nice, but they are finishing walking here. They will be in Spain for a while, and may continue in about a week because they enjoyed it so much. After that we found a supermarket to get provisions for tomorrow’s walk…it will be a long one, and you can’t count on bars or anything being open…today the first town after 6 kms had an active bar - when it was nice, but no one was desperate, though we did stop and Amr had coffee and I had some of the amazing fresh OJ…we squeeze oranges every day, but it is never as sweet and delicious as the OJ here! And then the next 2 towns, when people were hotter and more tired, were totally asleep!! We had cheese made into a sandwich with yesterday’s baguette, but stale bread not so good, and we today got crackers as an improvement…you can usually find a seat in the shade, even if the village is closed.

    Now off to dinner. Belorado is tiny, but there were several hopeful looking places to eat. The Plaza Mayor is beautiful …a big open space, with even a rotunda in the middle. But usually is has a lovely tree-shaded area in the middle, which of course at present is the bare gnarled branches, starting to bud…still looks strange and rather weird to me.

    …just back from dinner…saw the English couple, Jane and Rob, again as we were walking back, and had a post dinner wine with them…lovely. And via them we noticed the storks’ nests on the church bell tower…very relaxed!    Læs mere

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